This popular restaurant near Campo dei Fiori offers a mind-boggling choice of pizzas. In addition to the traditional margherita and capricciosa, you'll find a spicy pizza with chili peppers and hot salami and one with fresh buffalo mozzarella and cherry tomatoes, perfect in summer. Appetizers are good, too; as well as the traditional fried goodies the menu includes more varied items, such as a spinach salad with bacon, mushrooms, and walnuts. D, MC, V. Closed Tues. except in summer. No lunch.

Acqua e Farina?
Piazza O. Giustiniani 2, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/574-1382
Under EUR21
Trastevere/Testaccio
Pizza

Not quite a pizzeria, trendy Acqua e Farina? sticks close to its name, which translates as "water and flour." The menu offers takeoffs on pizza, like strufolini, cylinders of pizza dough stuffed with mozzarella, anchovies, and zucchini flowers, or smoked provolone, mushrooms, and prosciutto. Try other shapes and fillings to create a fun meal. No credit cards. No lunch Sun.

Africa
Via Gaeta 26, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/494-1077
Under EUR21
Near Termini
Ethiopian

A reminder of Italy's failed attempts at creating an empire, Africa is one of a handful of Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurants that have sprung up throughout the city. Food is eaten with the hands; scoop up meat and vegetables with the help of soft, spongy bread. Try the classic zighinì (spicy beef) and if you're tired of cappuccinos and cornetti (Italian croissants) in the morning, Africa is open for traditional yogurt-based breakfasts. No credit cards. Closed Mon.

Agata e Romeo
Via C. Alberto 45, Italy
Phone: 06/446-6115
Over EUR52
Santa Maria Maggiore
Italian

The husband-and-wife team of Agata Parisella and Romeo Caraccio run one of Rome's top-flight restaurants. Agata runs the kitchen, turning out inspired cuisine that never loses sight of its Roman roots, and Romeo acts as maître d' and expert sommelier. Flan di pecorino con salsa di fichi secchi (sheep's cheese flan with a dried fig sauce), vellutata di zucchini con fiore fritto (a velvety zucchini soup topped with a fried zucchini flower), and braised oxtail with celery puree are just a few of the delicious items on the small but balanced menu. A tasting menu, complete with wine, is a smart bet if you want to try a variety of specialties. Scrumptious desserts and an excellent wine list place this among the city's finest eateries. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sat., Sun., 2 wks in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug.

Ai Tre Scalini
Via SS. Quattro 30, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/709-6309
EUR21 to EUR52
San Giovanni
Italian

A quality restaurant near the Colosseum, now that's a surprise! Sit outside in warm weather, but if it gets too hot, Ai Tre Scalini's naturally cool rooms on the lower level are fantastically refreshing. Sample chef Angelo Annarumi's playful salmon roulades with ricotta cheese and pink grapefruit, or the unusual radicchio and cheese-stuffed zagnolotti (small ravioli) in a delicious lobster sauce. A wide variety of second courses, from orata in crosta di patate con vongole (gilthead bream topped with crunchy potatoes and sprinkled with tasty baby clams) to simple beef with rosemary are all served with flair. Excellent homemade almond ice cream comes with chocolate sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 10 days in Aug.

Al 34
Via Mario de' Fiori, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/679-5091
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

It can be hard to find a place to eat near Piazza di Spagna without spending outrageous sums, but Al 34 has been an affordable standby for many years. There are two seatings for dinner, at 7:30 and 9:30, and diners can choose from set menus featuring Roman specialties, seafood, and meat, or else choose from the large à la carte menu. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug.

Al Bric
Via del Pellegrino 51, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-9533
EUR36 to EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

Roberto Marchetti, a fourth-generation wine merchant, has created a place where wine reigns supreme, with a cellar nonpareil of Italian and French labels. Fresh ingredients are one of the hallmarks of the food at Al Bric, and you can taste it in dishes such as artichoke charlotte with warm chèvre cheese or the inventive pappardelle (wide noodles) with a pinot noir and duck sauce. A fantastic cheese cart and scrumptious desserts make this one of Rome's most interesting eateries. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., 2 wks in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Al Ceppo
Via Panama 2, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/841-9696
EUR36 to EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

This Sunday lunch favorite has an ample selection of classic Italian dishes prepared with a creative flair. The menu changes daily but always includes a few specialties from the Marches region - where the owners come from - such as olive ascolane (large stuffed green olives, breaded and fried). Pasta is made fresh every day, and other hallmarks are polpettine di melanzane al vapore (steamed eggplant balls), the very Roman dish of pasta and broccoli in skate broth, and veal rolls stuffed with radicchio and Parmesan cheese. A wide selection of meats, fish, and vegetables grilled in the attractive fireplace in the front room rounds out the extensive menu. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug.

Al Pompiere
Via Santa Maria dei Calderari 38, Rome, Italy
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Something of a hostaria, or informal restaurant, in the heart of the old Jewish ghetto, Al Pompiere has stayed the same over the years. Why should they change, when their Roman dishes like fried zucchini flowers, battered salt cod, gnocchi, and tender beef strips with arugula are all so good? High ceilings, dark wood paneling, and a friendly atmosphere make you feel like you've stepped back in time. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Alberto Ciarla
Piazza San Cosimato 40, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/581-8668
Over EUR36
Trastevere/Testaccio
Seafood

Restaurateur Alberto Ciarla is one of Rome's most well-known foodies. His attention to detail and dedication to hunting down the freshest of fish has won him the hearts of many clients over the years. In addition to the regular à la carte offerings, Alberto Ciarla also boasts six tasting menus, including a meat-based one for anyone wary of creatures of the sea. Raw fish is excellent to start with, highlighting the flavors of swordfish, salmon, sea bass, and prawns. Continue with lovely pastas and fried, grilled, or roasted fish from the Mediterranean. Sumptuous desserts are worth splurging on, especially the gelato affogato, ice cream floating in coffee, topped with whipped cream. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Aug., and Jan. No lunch.

Albistrò
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 140/a, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-5274
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Just a hop, skip, and a jump from Piazza Farnese, this small restaurant has yet to be discovered by the masses. The kitchen turns out both classic Italian dishes and more varied, modern offerings. The small menu changes often, but you will always find interesting risottos, like pumpkin and bits of almond cookies, and tasty second courses like guinea fowl with chestnuts. One of the owners is from Switzerland, so be on the lookout for such regional specialties as pavé, a semolina pudding with fresh strawberries. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. and July 20-Aug. 10. No lunch Mon.-Sat.

Alle Carrette
Vicolo delle Carrette 14, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/679-2770
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Pizza

Tucked around the corner from the Forum on a tiny side street, Alle Carrette is easy to miss. Hunt it down for tasty Roman pizzas and the usual starters like bruschette and supplì (fried rice balls). It's one of the best pizzerias in the touristy area around the ruins. MC, V. No lunch June-Mar.

Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio 7, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/581-5274
EUR21 to EUR52
Trastevere/Testaccio
Italian

Run by three friends with a passion for wine and fine food, Antico Arco has quickly won the hearts of Roman foodies with great invention and moderate prices. The wine list has a wide selection of Italian and French labels, plus a smattering from Australia and California. Particularly good are such starters as the parmigiano and onion soufflé with a tomato-basil sauce and such second courses as carré d'agnello con composta di fichi (rack of lamb with fig compote). Don't miss dessert, especially the chocolate cake with melted chocolate center: it's justly famous among chocoholics all over the city. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch Tues.-Sat.

Arancia Blu
Via dei Latini 65, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/445-4105
EUR21 to EUR36
Near Termini
Vegetarian

Many Italian restaurants don't quite understand the concept of vegetarianism; meat or fish often crop up in dishes even if not listed on menu descriptions. Arancia Blu, however, has grasped the concept. Try potato and mint ravioli, or parsley pasta with peppers, olives, and capers. Eggplant parmigiana gets the inventive addition of a pastry crust. Excellent desserts and an extensive wine list make Arancia Blu a worthy choice even for meat eaters. No credit cards. No lunch.

Asinocotto
Via dei Vascellari 48, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/589-8985
EUR21 to EUR52
Trastevere/Testaccio
Italian

In a small street on the south side of Trastevere, Asinocotto is off the beaten track of tourist bars and restaurants. The menu includes delights like smoked tuna with fava beans and cinnamon and minestra di fagioli cannellini con pasta alla castagna (cannellini bean soup with chestnut pasta). Special of the day might be a Parmesan basket filled with spinach and quail, or sea bass with baby vegetables and ginger. For dessert try the chocolate torte with green tea granita or the delicious pears in vanilla. The wine list is carefully chosen, with sweet wines paired to match dessert dishes. Asinocotto also has an extensive selection of teas, a rarity in coffee-centric Italy. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Jan. No lunch.

ATM
Via della Penitenza 7, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6830-7053
EUR21 to EUR36
Trastevere/Testaccio
Japanese

With its minimalist decor, ATM almost has a New York feel, which can be refreshing after too many wood-paneled trattorie. The menu is simple, with a good selection of sushi and sashimi. Eat at the bar or at one of the tables and enjoy the freshest of salmon, shrimp, swordfish, squid, sea bass, and whatever else owner Francesco Scarparo and his team of Japanese imports deem worthy of preparing that day. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch.

Baffetto
Via del Governo Vecchio 114, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-1617
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Pizza

Down a cobblestone street not far from Piazza Navona, this is Rome's best-known pizzeria and a summer favorite for outside dining. The plainly decorated interior is mostly given over to the ovens, but there's another room with more paper-covered tables. Turnover is fast; this is not the place to linger. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Birreria Peroni
Via di San Marcello 19, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/679-5310
Under EUR21
Old Rome
German

This beer hall's long, wooden tables, hard-backed booths, and simple Northern Italian food (which resembles German fare) all provide a nice respite from Italian-style standbys serving pasta and tomato sauce. Try the goulash or the many sausage specialties; with sauerkraut and potatoes, of course. The Peroni Gran Riserva beer, a domestic double malt, is terrific. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.

Café Malastrana
Via Monserrato 32, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-5617
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Café Malastrana may be named after Prague's old town, but the food is all Italian, served in a sleek, modern space. Chef Antonio Giacomella provides a spirited variation on Roman classics: fried zucchini flowers with smoked salmon instead of anchovies, and pasta alla carbonara with the added kick of artichokes. The formula succeeds in other dishes as well, like polpette di baccalà, brandade of salt cod rolled into balls, lightly breaded, and deep-fried. For dessert, if your cholesterol level is still within designated limits, order the fried crepe, stuffed with pastry cream and topped with warm chocolate sauce, powdered sugar, and cinnamon. MC, V. Closed Tues. and Aug. No lunch Sun.

Caffè delle Arti
Via A. Gramsci 73, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/3265-1236
Under EUR36
Parioli
Italian

Rome's modern art museum, in the lovely green of the Villa Borghese park, also boasts a beautiful café that serves full meals. The food may not the strongest Rome has to offer, but the restaurant's terrace alone is worth the tab. Best bets on the menu are salads and pastas, perfect lunch items. AE, D, MC, V. No dinner Mon.

Cannavota
Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano 20, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/7720-5007
EUR21 to EUR36
San Giovanni
Italian

On the square next to San Giovanni in Laterano, this place has a large and faithful following and has fed generations of neighborhood families over the years. Seafood dominates, but carnivores are satisfied also. Try one of the pastas with seafood sauce - fettuccine with scampi is a good choice - and then go on to grilled fish or meat. The cheerful atmosphere and rustic decor contribute to an authentically Roman experience. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. and 3 wks in Aug.

Cavour 313
Via Cavour 313, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/678-5496
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

Wine bars are popping up all over the city, but Cavour 313 has been around much longer than most. Open for lunch and dinner, it serves an excellent variety of cured meats, cheeses, and salads. Choose from about 25 wines by the glass or uncork a bottle and stay a while. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Aug. No lunch weekends. June 15-Sept., no dinner Sun.

Cecilia Metella
Via Appia Antica 125, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/513-6743
EUR21 to EUR36
Via Appia Antica
Italian

From the entrance on Via Appia Antica, practically opposite the catacombs, you walk uphill to a low, sprawling construction designed for wedding feasts and banquets. There's a large terrace shaded by vines for outdoor dining. Although obviously geared to larger groups, Cecilia Metella also gives couples and small groups full attention, good service, and traditional Roman cuisine. The specialties are searing-hot crespelle (crepes), served in individual casseroles, and pollo al Nerone (chicken à la Nero; flambéed, of course). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and last 2 wks in Aug.

Cesare
Via Crescenzio 13, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-1227
EUR21 to EUR36
Vatican
Italian

An old standby in the residential area near the Vatican known as Prati, Cesare is a willing slave to tradition. On offer are classic fish and meat dishes like fresh marinated anchovies, homemade pasta with meat sauce, and thick Florentine steaks. Try the impressive array of cured meats, especially the prosciutto di cervo (salt-cured deer) or lardo di Colonnata (bacon). As with any real Roman restaurant, gnocchi are served on Thursday and pasta with chickpeas on Friday. Cesare also has a fairly extensive wine list representing many regions. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch Sun.

Checchino dal 1887
Via di Monte Testaccio 30, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/574-6318
EUR36 to EUR52
Trastevere/Testaccio
Italian

Literally carved from a hillside composed of potsherds from Roman times, Checchino serves traditional Roman cuisine, carefully prepared and served without fanfare or decoration, in a clean, sober environment. Though the slaughterhouses of Rome's Testaccio quarter - a short cab ride from the city center - are long gone, you can still try the various meats that make up the soul of Roman cooking: trippa (tripe), testina (head), pajata (intestine), zampa (trotter), and coratella (sweetbreads and heart of beef). There are also plenty of other dishes to choose from: house specialties include coda alla vaccinara (stewed oxtail), a popular Roman dish, and abbacchio alla cacciatora (braised milk-fed lamb) with seasonal vegetables. The restaurant also has one of the city's best wine lists. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug.

Coriolano
Via Ancona 14, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/4424-9863
EUR36 to EUR52
Veneto
Italian

The only tourists who find their way to this classic restaurant near Porta Pia are likely to be gourmets looking for quintessential Italian cucina - and that means market-fresh ingredients, especially seafood, light homemade pastas, and choice olive oil. The tables in the small antiques-filled dining room are set with immaculate white linen, sparkling crystal, and silver. Seafood dishes vary, but tagliolini all'aragosta (thin noodles with lobster sauce) is the house specialty; also order the seasonal porcini mushrooms (prepared with a secret recipe). The wine list is predominantly Italian, but includes some French and California choices. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Aug.

Crilé
Viale Maresciallo Pilsudski 46, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/808-2690
Under EUR21
Parioli
Pizza

In the Parioli district north of Villa Borghese is a winning pizzeria famed for its pizza with radicchio and Gorgonzola. You can indulge meat cravings with its sausage, boiled prosciutto, and mushroom combo. They even have good beer; if Italy's Peroni fails to impress, sip on an English or German brew. MC, V. Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Cul de Sac 1
Piazza Pasquino 73, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6880-1094
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

Plans to open an offshoot never materialized, but this popular wine bar near Piazza Navona has kept the "1" in its name nonetheless. It's among the city's oldest enoteche and offers a book-length selection of wines from Italy, France, the Americas, and elsewhere. Food is eclectic and ranges from Italian meats and cheeses to a fantastic onion soup that bears no resemblance to the famed French version, several vegetarian options, and delicious desserts. Outside tables get crowded fast, and Cul de Sac does not accept reservations, so get here early. Reservations not accepted. MC, V, -nc-. No lunch Mon.

Da Benito e Gilberto
Via del Falco 19, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-7769
Under EUR36
Vatican
Italian

Commonly known as "da Benito," this fish restaurant may look like all the other tourist-trap trattorias in the charming area near St. Peter's called Borgo Pio, but it's been a highly regarded staple among locals for years. Try the simple, classic seafood: heaping bowls of mussels and clams in a tomato broth, fettuccine with lobster, or their traditional fish fry, with shrimp, squid, and whatever else might be in season. Their refreshing dessert drink, a mixture of prosecco (dry sparkling white wine) and lemon sorbet, is perfect at any time of the year. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug.

Da Checco er Carettiere
Via Benedetta 10, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/581-7018
EUR36 to EUR52
Trastevere/Testaccio
Italian

Maybe this is what all Italian restaurants once looked like: an aging doorman, garlic braids hanging from the ceiling, black-and-white photos in small frames lining the wood-paneled walls. All the Roman standards are here, more or less dependably prepared, plus plenty of local vegetables and a fair selection of fish. Family-run for three generations, Checco is a great place to soak up genuine Trastevere color and hospitality. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

Da Domenico
Via Satrico 23-25, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/7049-4602
Under EUR36
San Giovanni
Italian

Da Domenico is one of those friendly neighborhood restaurants dishing up Roman cuisine to local regulars, which has managed to stay unchanged over the years. Near San Giovanni in Laterano, it provides a good lunch option after you visit the basilica and other churches in the area. Food is simple and hearty: fried vegetables, classic Roman pastas, and unadorned meats. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Da Franco ar Vicoletto
Via dei Falisci 1/b, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/495-7675
Under EUR21
Near Termini
Seafood

In the heart of the city's student-filled San Lorenzo district, Da Franco ar Vicoletto is one of Rome's few remaining affordable fish restaurants. The prix-fixe menu is always more or less the same: an appetizer of sautéed mussels and/or clams; seafood lasagna; spaghetti with clams; pasta with beans and shellfish (a seemingly strange combination that succeeds heroically); and then grilled, roasted, and fried fish. It's the kind of place best visited in a group - the more people at your table, the more food pours out of the kitchen. No credit cards. Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Aug.

Da Gianni
Via G. Avezzana 11, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/321-7268
Under EUR21
Vatican
Italian

About a 20-minute walk from St. Peter's Basilica, this tiny trattoria is well worth the stroll. Also known as "Cacio e Pepe," Da Gianni turns out exclusively Roman food of good quality at a time when decent Roman trattorie are disappearing. While there are no antipasti on offer, heaping plates of tonnarelli cacio e pepe, tonnarelli alla carbonara, polpettone (meat loaf Italian-style), and fried anchovies are simple and satisfying main courses. Sit outside at folding wooden tables and check out the area's film and television crowd as they talk on their cell phones. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug. No dinner Sat.

Dal Bolognese
Piazza del Popolo 1, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/361-1426
EUR36 to EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

Long a haunt of the art crowd, this classic restaurant on Piazza del Popolo is a trendy choice for a leisurely lunch between sightseeing and shopping. An array of contemporary paintings decorates the dining room, but the real attraction is the lovely piazza - one of Rome's best for people-watching. As the name of the restaurant promises, the cooking here adheres to the hearty tradition of Bologna, with delicious homemade tortellini in brodo (filled pasta in broth), fresh pastas in creamy sauces, and steaming trays of boiled meats. Among the desserts, try the dolce della mamma (a concoction of gelato, zabaglione, and chocolate sauce) and the fruit-shape gelato. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon., Sat., and Sun. in first 2 wks of July; and 2 wks in Aug.

Dal Toscano
Via Germanico 58, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/3972-5717
EUR21 to EUR36
Vatican
Italian

This family-run Tuscan trattoria near the Vatican has an open, wood-fired grill and classic dishes such as ribollita (a thick bread-and-vegetable soup) and pici (fresh thick pasta, served with a wild hare sauce). The glass-door refrigerator opposite the entrance lets you know right away that the real attraction of the house is the prized bistecca alla fiorentina, a thick, bone-in steak, grilled but rare in the middle. Accompany it with a strong Chianti or a half liter of the Tuscan house wine. Desserts such as pastry cream tarts, apple strudel, and castagnaccio (a tasty chestnut and pine-nut treat) in wintertime are all homemade. Service is friendly and speedy. There's outside dining in good weather. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Aug., and Christmas-New Year's.

Dar Poeta
Vicolo del Bologna 45, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/588-0516
Under EUR21
Trastevere/Testaccio
Pizza

Romans drive across town for great pizza from this neighborhood joint on a small street in Trastevere. Maybe it's the dough - the pizza is a bit cheaper than average, and made from a secret blend of flours that is reputed to be easier to digest than the competition. For dessert, there's an unusual calzone with Nutella chocolate-hazelnut spread and ricotta. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Del Frate
Via degli Scipioni 118, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/323-6437
Under EUR36
Vatican
Italian

The adjacent Del Frate wine store joined the wine bar trend in 2000 with this fabulous locale. The decor is sleek and modern, and the food is classic wine-bar fare, with a touch of creativity. Try their delicious crostini, toasted bread topped with honey and foie gras, asparagus, or fatty bacon and chèvre cheese. Tasty salads make a nice lunch, as do the marinated fish or cold roast lamb. And for dessert, dip into the chocolate fondue. Del Frate offers some 35 wines by the glass each day, and their shop next door has hundreds of bottles for the choosing. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Ditirambo
Piazza della Cancelleria 74/75, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-1626
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Ditirambo's bistrolike atmosphere and delicious food attract glitterati such as Oscar winner Roberto Benigni, but Romans from all walks of life pack this restaurant every night. The kitchen offers dishes your grandmother might make, if she were a very good cook. Simple antipasti consist of vegetables and cured meats, and pastas range from cacio e pepe to gnocchi with Montasio cheese and radicchio. Grilled sea bass and veal chops with herbs baked in foil are favorite main courses. The homemade ricotta and sour cherry cake is a treat. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Aug. No lunch Mon.

Edy
Vicolo del Babuino 4, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/3600-1738
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

This surprisingly affordable trattoria is right around the corner from the exclusive shops along Via del Babuino. Fettuccine ai carciofi (with artichokes), spaghetti al cartoccio con frutti di mare (with mixed shellfish, brought to the table wrapped in foil), and lamb are all excellent choices. The house white, from the Castelli Romani, is a perfect, fruity accompaniment to the menu's offerings, especially in the heat of summer. Ask for a table outside in warm weather; otherwise, the tile interior with kitschy paintings of Roman scenes is more than adequate. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

El Toulà
Via della Lupa 29/b, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-3750
Over EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

Rome's prestigious El Toulà - one of the many spin-offs of its namesake in Treviso - has the warm, welcoming comforts of a 19th-century country house, with white walls, antique furniture in dark wood, heavy silver serving dishes, and spectacular fruit and flower arrangements. In the cozy bar off the entrance you can sip a prosecco (Venetian sparkling white wine), the aperitif best suited to the chef's Venetian specialties, such as baccalà mantecato (cod whipped with butter to a creamy consistency) or fegato alla veneziana (calf's liver sautéed with onions), along with contemporary interpretations of Italian classics. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat. or Mon.

Enoteca Corsi
Via del Gesù 88, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/679-0821
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

Very convenient to the historic center for lunch (no dinner) or an afternoon break, this little wine bar looks like it missed the revolution; prices and decor are come una volta (like once upon a time) when the shop sold - as the sign says - wine (red or white) and oil. The genuinely dated feel of the place has its charm: you can still get wine here by the liter, or choose from a good variety of fairly priced alternatives in bottles. There are also nicely prepared pastas and kind service. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner.

Enoteca Severini
Via Bocca di Leone 44/a, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/678-6031
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

It's more of a hole in the wall than an actual wine bar, but if you want authenticity, come to Enoteca Severini. Each day, the eccentric owner opens up a few bottles on the counter for customers to sip. It's tiny, strange, yet charming and very, very Roman. MC, V. Closed Sat.

Enoteca Spiriti
Via Sant'Eustachio 5, Rome, Italy
Phone: no phone
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

This recent opening is located near the Pantheon, a good stop for a light meal after seeing the sights in the historical center. At lunch there's always a pasta and soup selection, as well as fish and meat specials of the day. Dinner is lighter, focusing on cured meats and cheeses. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.

Er Grottino
Campo dei Fiori 32, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6880-3618
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Pizza

Among the many pizzerias and restaurants lining the Campo dei Fiori, Er Grottino is the best choice for crisp Roman pizza. No strange combinations here, just classics like mushroom, ham, or vegetable. It offers friendly service and is open for lunch. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues. and Aug. 8-31.

Evangelista
Via delle Zoccolette 11/a, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-5810
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Evangelista is known throughout the city for its carciofi al mattone, roasted artichokes pressed flat between two hot bricks. Its fame is well deserved, but the artichokes are just the beginning. Try excellent pasta with fresh fava beans, pecorino cheese, and mint in spring, or roast pork loin with juniper berries in winter. Homemade desserts - don't miss the pastry with zabaglione cream and warm chocolate sauce - prompt service, and a comfortably elegant setting make Evangelista a winner. MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Fagianetto
Via Filippo Turati 21, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/446-7306
Under EUR21
Near Termini
Italian

Massive wooden beams on high are as solid as the reputation of this family-run trattoria near Termini Station. It has a regular neighborhood clientele, but also satisfies tourists' appetites with a special menu for 25,000 lire. But you may well be tempted by à la carte offerings such as rigatoni alla norcina (with a sauce of crumbled sausage and cream) or osso buco con funghi (with mushrooms). Service is swift and courteous. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 2-3 wks in Aug.

Ferrara
Via del Moro 1/a, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/580-3769
EUR21 to EUR36
Trastevere/Testaccio
Italian

It calls itself a wine bar, but Ferrara's menu makes it a bona fide restaurant with a wine list the length of a short novel. As you contemplate the labels from all over Italy, don't ignore the food at hand: an excellent mixed antipasto of marinated vegetables and cured meats; delicious homemade soups, especially farro e funghi porcini (farro grain and porcini mushrooms); and roast pork with prunes. Whether you're in the mood for a light snack or a four-course meal, Ferrara is sure to please. AE, DC, MC, V.

Filetti di Baccalà
Largo dei Librari 88 , near Campo dei Fiori, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-4018
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

The name says it all. For years, Filetti di Baccalà has been serving just that - battered, deep-fried fillets of salt cod - and not much else. The Roman specialty doesn't need much accompaniment. You'll find no-frills starters like bruschetta al pomodoro (garlic-rubbed toast topped with fresh tomatoes and olive oil), and in winter months the cod is served alongside puntarelle, a crunchy Roman green topped with a delicious anchovy vinaigrette. It's a fun place, with a convivial waitstaff. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Formula 1
Via degli Equi 13, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/445-3866
Under EUR21
Near Termini
Pizza

Posters of Formula 1 cars and drivers past and present attest to the owner's love for auto racing. The atmosphere is casual and friendly and draws students from the nearby university as well as pizza-lovers from all over the city. Its location in the trendy San Lorenzo neighborhood makes it a convenient stop for dinner before checking out some of the area's bars. AE, MC, V, -nc-. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Grappolo d'Oro
Piazza della Cancelleria 80, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-4118
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

This central trattoria off Campo dei Fiori has been a favorite for decades with locals and foreign residents. Although it was the subject of a New Yorker article on the "classic Roman trattoria," notoriety has not induced the graying, courteous owners to change their two half-paneled dining rooms or menu, which features pasta all'amatriciana and scaloppine any way you want them. Inquire about the day's special. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

'Gusto
Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/322-6273
EUR21 to EUR52
Old Rome
Contemporary

After two years in business, 'Gusto is still one of the hardest places in town to get a reservation. Near Piazza di Spagna, the two-story space has an airy, modernist feel, the kitchen a fusion flair. The ground floor includes a pizzeria that also serves salads and lighter fare at lunch, a wine bar, and a store selling cookbooks and kitchen gadgets. Upstairs is the restaurant proper, which turns out such dishes as eggplant and chickpea strudel with sesame-goat cheese sauce, wok-tossed spaghetti with vegetables and ginger, and rack of lamb in a porcini mushroom crust. Manager Dario Laurenzi and his staff are all excellent sources of advice on the carefully chosen wine list. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Il Bacaro
Via degli Spagnoli 27, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-4110
EUR21 to EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

This tiny candlelit spot near the Pantheon is perfect for a romantic evening. Marinated fish, pasta with sausage and broccoli, and excellent meat prepared in a variety of ways - such as involtini di vitella con cipollotti e pinoli in salsa di olive nere (tender veal rolled around scallions and pine nuts in a green olive sauce) - are some of the unpretentious but satisfying dishes on offer. The wine list is well above average and includes several varieties of after-dinner drinks, a rarity in Rome. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch weekends

Il Brillo Parlante
Via della Fontanella 12, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/324-3334
Under EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Il Brillo Parlante's location near Piazza del Popolo makes it convenient for lunch or dinner after shopping in the area. Taste some 20 wines by the glass at the ground-floor bar, or eat downstairs in one of several wood-panel and copper-pipe rooms. The menu is extensive for a wine bar; choose from cured meats, crostini (toasted bread with various toppings such as pâté or prosciutto), pastas, grilled meats, and even pizzas. AE, D, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

Il Cantiniere di Santa Dorotea
Via di Santa Dorotea 9, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/581-9025
Under EUR21
Trastevere/Testaccio
Italian

With 35 wines by the glass, Santa Dorotea is a great place to meet for a drink after dinner, especially since it stays open until 2 AM. But its well-articulated menu, offering wine-bar fare like radicchio soup, piadine (a specialty from Romagna - flat bread stuffed with ham, cheese, and vegetables and then grilled), cured meats, salads, and cheeses may persuade you to go earlier. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Il Cardinale
Via delle Carceri 6, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-9336
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

This serene little restaurant serves a fanciful, lightened-up version of traditional Roman fare, beautifully presented on king-size plates. Oil paintings and enlarged old photos of Roman landmarks hang against golden damask wall coverings; chairs and couches are covered in a pretty floral print. The menu always has a few suggestions from the chef but tends to include a selection of salads, vegetable soups, and pastas such as vermicelli cacio e pepe or ravioli di borragine (filled with borage leaves), and various vegetable sformati (flans). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Il Chicco d'Uva
Corso Rinascimento 70, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-7983
EUR21 to EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

Standing right next to the Senate building, Il Chicco d'Uva has both a great location and stellar food. Appetizers include thinly sliced goose carpaccio with fresh peaches and steamed broccoli with fatty bacon and black truffle. Pastas vary from season to season and use both fish and meat, and second courses tend to favor carnivores, with such dishes as a delicate veal with zucchini flowers. Desserts are creative and satisfying; especially good are the semifreddi, soft ice cream in a variety of flavors with tasty toppings. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Il Convivio
Vicolo dei Soldati 31, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-9432
Over EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

Chef Angelo Troiani's never-ending quest to find the freshest seasonal ingredients translates into original dishes like cosce di quaglia in confit, vinaigrette all'aceto di lamponi, e verza stufata (confit of quail's legs with raspberry vinaigrette and braised cabbage); spaghetti with shrimp, artichokes, mint, and Roman sheep's milk cheese; and filetto di maiale arrostito con patate in porchetta e salsa di vin cotto (roast pork served with bacon-wrapped potatoes in a wine sauce). The tasting menu, a good deal with five courses, not including wine, changes every day. Massimo and Giuseppe manage the dining room and pour wine chosen from a vast cellar boasting more than 1,000 bottles. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.

Il Desiderio Preso per la Coda
Vicolo della Palomba 23, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6830-7522
Under EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

Tucked behind Piazza Navona, this restaurant has a Tuscan slant and a laid-back feel. The walls are adorned with contemporary art, some of which was done by the wife of one of the owners. The small menu changes often and includes such dishes as pappa al pomodoro (a Tuscan bread and tomato soup), fig risotto, and polpettone (meat loaf), a great comfort food. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch.

Il Dito e la Luna
Via dei Sabelli 51, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/494-0726
EUR21 to EUR36
Near Termini
Italian

Good regional cooking can be hard to find in Rome, so head to Il Dito e la Luna for updated Sicilian fare. Pasta con le sarde (with fresh sardines, bread crumbs, pine nuts, and orange peel) is excellent, as are dishes made with eggplant, one of Sicily's staple vegetables. More creative dishes include rabbit with prunes and lamb chops with a sharp cheese sauce. Cannoli - standard in every Italian café in the States - are the real thing here: light, airy, and filled with delicious ricotta cheese. Ask for a table near the door in summer as the restaurant has yet to install air-conditioning. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.

Il Goccetto
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-4268
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

Sergio Ceccarelli, one of Rome's most knowledgeable wine store owners, is more than willing to help perplexed customers. Choose from about 20 wines by the glass or from hundreds of bottles stocked on the wood shelves. Then curb your hunger with a wide selection of cheeses from all over Italy, marinated vegetables, and cured meats from the famed Falorni salumificio in Tuscany. Il Goccetto's location near Campo dei Fiori and its cool, quiet interior make it a welcome rest stop after sightseeing or a perfect place to sip an aperitivo before dinner at one of the neighborhood's many restaurants. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and last 3 wks in Aug.

Il Leoncino
Via del Leoncino 28 , near Corso, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-6306
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Pizza

Lines out the door on weekends attest to the popularity of this fluorescent-lit pizzeria in the otherwise big-ticket neighborhood around Piazza di Spagna. It's one of the few pizzerie open for lunch as well as dinner. No credit cards. Closed Wed. and Aug. No lunch Sat. and Sun.

Il Sanpietrino
Piazza Costaguti 15, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6880-6471
EUR36 to EUR52
Old Rome
Italian

Named after the cobblestones that line the floor, this popular eatery has a lovely, relaxing atmosphere. Beam ceilings and tile walls remind diners of old-world Rome, yet the menu has a contemporary feel to it. Meat and seafood share the bill, and dishes such as panzerotti di pesce in salsa di mazzancolle (homemade ravioli stuffed with fish, in a light prawn sauce) and piccione al tegame (panfried pigeon) make the most of seasonal ingredients - if something wasn't at the market that day, it won't be on the menu. Excellent desserts range from a pine-nut cake to a simple lemon sorbet with strawberry sauce. The wine list includes several regional whites and reds. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Aug., and Jan. No lunch.

Il Simposio di Costantini
Piazza Cavour 16, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/321-1502
EUR21 to EUR36
Vatican
Italian

One of the classiest wine bars in town doubles as one of Rome's best restaurants. Chef Arcangelo Dadini has recently upped the ante by broadening the menu. The food matches the elegance of the wrought-iron and velvet decor; spinach-stuffed pears drizzled with a sharp cheese sauce and chickpea soup with duck sausage and salt cod are bold, inspired entrées. Lighter fare includes a wide selection of marinated and smoked fish, top-quality salami and cured meats, pâtés, and cheeses. Il Simposio benefits from having an enormous wine store attached; choose from 30 wines degustazione (available by the glass) or a multitude of Italian and foreign labels. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.

L'Angolo Divino
Via dei Balestrari 12, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-4413
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

Stand at the bar and sip wine by the glass, or sit at wooden tables and folding chairs and choose from among the many bottles at L'Angolo Divino. Smoked fish, cured meats, cheeses, and salads make a nice lunch or light dinner. Ask about tasting evenings dedicated to single grapes or regions. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Aug. No dinner Mon.

L'Archeologia
Via Appia Antica 139, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/788-0494
EUR21 to EUR36
Via Appia Antica
Italian

In this farmhouse just beyond the catacombs, you dine indoors beside the fireplace in cool weather or in the garden under age-old vines in the summer. The atmosphere is friendly and intimate, and specialties include homemade pastas, abbacchio scottadito, and seafood. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Thurs.

L'Eau Vive
Via Monterone 85, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6880-1095
Under EUR21
Old Rome
French

This is definitely a unique Roman dining experience, even if the food isn't Italian. For the last 29 years the restaurant, which serves (very good) classic French food, has been run by a society of French missionary nuns. Stick with French fare like foie gras and steak au poivre (pepper steak); L'Eau Vive's recent forays into other cuisines is a bit lackluster. The atmosphere throughout is serene and soothing, though rather plain (of course). Soft devotional music plays as the smiling sisters speedily bring plate after plate. They take a brief pause before dessert to sing "Ave Maria" - you are welcome to join in. The upstairs rooms, reserved for nonsmokers, have beautiful frescoes. Don't feel guilty if you order several courses; all proceeds go to charity. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

L'Enoteca Antica di Via della Croce
Via della Croce 76/b, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/679-0896
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

This wine bar is always crowded, and for good reason. Its location near the Spanish Steps makes it a great stop for an aperitivo (pre-dinner drink) before hitting the area's restaurants. A small menu including cured meats, pastas, and salads also makes it a good lunch getaway after exercising your credit card in the neighborhood's boutiques. AE, D, MC, V. Closed 2 wks in Aug.

L'Isola della Pizza
Via degli Scipioni 47, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/3973-3483
Under EUR21
Vatican
Pizza

Right near the Vatican metro stop, the "Island of Pizza" is also known for its copious antipasti. Simply ask for the house appetizers, and a waiter will swoop down with numerous plates of salad, seafood, bruschetta, prosciutto, crisp pizza bianca, and supplì. Though it's all too easy to fill up on these fun starters, the pizza is dependably good and meat-lovers can get a decent steak. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun., Aug., and Christmas wk. No lunch.

La Bottega del Vino di Anacleto Bleve
Via Santa Maria del Pianto 9/a, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-5970
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

This cozy wineshop in the Jewish ghetto sets out tables and opens up for lunch. Owner Anacleto Bleve and his sons make the rounds, proposing the latest cheese they have procured from the farthest reaches of Italy. Instead of a menu, there's mamma at the counter with a good selection of mixed salads, smoked fish, and sliced meats, as well as a few soups and sformati (thick flans). You point, and she serves it up. There are always wines to drink by the glass, or you can choose from the several hundred bottles on the shelves that surround you. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., and holidays. No dinner.

La Gallina Bianca
Via A. Rosmini 5, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/474-3777
Under EUR21
Near Termini
Pizza

This pizzeria's location right down the road from Termini station makes it a perfect place for a welcome-to-Rome meal. A bright, noisy locale, La Galline Bianca attracts a young crowd and serves up classic thin-crust pizzas. Try the "full-moon" specialty, perfect for cheese-lovers, with ricotta, Parmesan, mozzarella, ham, and tomato. AE, MC, V. Aug.

La Maremma
Viale Parioli 93/c, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/808-6002
Under EUR21
Parioli
Pizza

La Maremma has been one of the biggest draws in Parioli for years. Pizzas are available Roman-style with a thin crust, or Neapolitan-style, thicker and more filling. Outside tables can be had year-round, thanks to heaters that warm the terrace in winter. A second La Maremma (Via Alessandria 119/d, PHONE: 06/855-4002) is closer to Via Veneto. MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch.

La Méditerranée
Via R. Fauro 2, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/8066-3694
Over EUR36
Parioli
Seafood

Chef Dominique Lesueur is French, but he combines influences from regions as different as Provence, Liguria, and Sicily, focusing most of all on seafood. Right in the heart of Rome's well-heeled Parioli area, La Méditerranée is a welcome addition in an area where restaurants often focus more on how many expensive cars are parked outside than on the food. Standouts include foie gras medallions with black truffle and steamed lobster; shellfish stew with saffron and garlic sauce; and grilled sea bream with fresh herbs over couscous. Desserts should not be missed. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

La Montecarlo
Vicolo Savelli 12, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-1877
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Pizza

Run by the niece of Baffetto's owner, La Montecarlo has a similar pizza menu and is almost as popular as its relative around the corner. Open for both lunch and dinner, crowds appreciate the inexpensive prices and fast service. No credit cards. Closed Aug.

La Penna d'Oca
Via della Penna 53, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/320-2898
EUR36 to EUR52
Old Rome
Seafood

Owner Francesco Tola took over an old osteria at the end of 1998 and transformed it into one of the most interesting restaurants in the area near Piazza del Popolo. Harking back to his Sardinian seaside upbringing, he created a menu primarily dedicated to fish. Marinated red mullet and rock fish are delicate starters, and homemade gnocchi with shrimp and radicchio in a butter and sage sauce are unusually light. Roast sarago, a hard-to-find Mediterranean fish, served with artichokes and potatoes, is a favorite, as is the succulent lobster. Be sure to place your dessert order for soufflé at the beginning of the meal. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. 10-31.

La Pergola
Cavalieri Hilton, Via Cadlolo 101, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/3509-2211
Over EUR52
Vatican
Mediterranean

High atop Monte Mario, the Cavalieri Hilton's rooftop La Pergola restaurant offers a commanding view of the city below. Amply spaced tables and low lighting create an intimate atmosphere not matched by other restaurants in town. Celebrated wunderchef Heinz Beck is a skilled technician and brings Rome its finest example of Mediterranean alta cucina (haute cuisine); dishes such as risotto with quail and fresh herbs or shrimp over eggplant puree with chopped tomatoes and basil are balanced and light, and the presentation is striking. The wine list and the cheese cart offer ample and interesting choices from Italy and France. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

La Rosetta
Via della Rosetta 9, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-1002
Over EUR52
Old Rome
Seafood

In 1992, chef/owner Massimo Riccioli took the nets and fishing gear off the walls of his parents' trattoria to create what is widely known as the place to go in Rome to eat first-rate fish. The interior is simple elegance at its best, with warm wood paneling, fresh flowers, and a stunning display of fish at the entrance. Start with ostriche (oysters), vongole veraci (large, tasty sautéed clams), or less traditional offerings like scallops with potatoes and tomato coulis. Pasta dishes are dressed with fish or seafood, alone or in combination with seasonal vegetables and fresh herbs. It's the simpler dishes like the classic zuppa di pesce (fish soup) or perfectly grilled fish and crustaceans that get star billing. Desserts (made in-house) are worth saving room for and come with a glass of dessert wine. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.-Wed.

La Soffitta
Via dei Villini 1/e, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/440-4642
Under EUR21
Near Termini
Pizza

You pay more, but hey, it's imported. This is Rome's hottest spot for classic Neapolitan pizza (thick, though crusty on the bottom, rather than paper-thin and crisp like the Roman kind) and the only pizzeria in town that has been certified by the Neapolitan Pizza Association to make the real thing. Desserts are brought in daily from Naples, of course. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, MC, V, -nc-. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

La Tartaruga
Via del Monte della Farina 53, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/686-9473
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Italian

This wine bar has less of a rustic atmosphere than most and feels like a small, elegant restaurant. The food matches the atmosphere, and offerings include risotto with asparagus, vitello tonnato (veal in a cold tuna sauce), and an excellent selection of cheeses and cold meats from all over Italy. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon.

La Terrazza dell'Eden
Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/4781-2552
Over EUR52
Veneto
Italian

The restaurant of the Eden hotel unfurls an unparalleled view of Rome's seven hills before your eyes, unfairly distracting you from some of the best food in the city. Modern yet simple Italian cuisine - high on flavor and herbs and low on butter and cream - has been the rule since the arrival of Chef Enrico Derflingher in 1994. Always on the prowl for superior fresh ingredients, he has taken the search to a new level: how many other restaurants have their own fishing boat (in this case named after the hotel), which reserves the best of the day's catch for the chef? In addition to the ever-changing à la carte selections, there are always set romano and macrobiotic menus. The restaurant is also open for breakfast (7-10). Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V.

La Trinchetta
Via dei Banchi Nuovi 4, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6830-0133
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

With a large dining menu and well chosen wine list, La Trinchetta has gained a faithful clientele since its arrival at the end of 1998. Choose from a vast array of unusual cured meats, terrines, rare cheeses, vegetable tarts, and simple desserts. A selection of 40 wines by the glass, and four pages of grappas, allow customers to experiment. AE, MC, V. Closed last 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Sun.

La Veranda dell'Hotel Columbus
Borgo Santo Spirito 73, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-2973
Over EUR36
Vatican
Italian

Deciding on whether to eat inside or outside at La Veranda is not easy since both the courtyard - with trompe l'oeil designs, leafy trees, and nighttime torches - and the frescoed dining room with high-back wooden chairs are among Rome's most spectacular settings. The food matches the surroundings and ranges from classic Roman cuisine such as spaghetti alla carbonara to more updated Italian dishes such as fiori di zucca con mazzancolle e salsa allo yogurt (stuffed with prawns in a yogurt sauce), and roast beef in juniper-berry and bay-leaf sauce. In addition, chef Luca Urriera cooks up "historical" dishes, such as a 17th-century recipe for sea bream, baked in an almond crust. Call ahead, especially on Saturday, as the hotel often acts as a venue for weddings and the restaurant closes for such events. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V.

Le Maschere
Via Monte della Farina 29, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-9444
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

For a taste of southern Italian (Calabrian) fare, try this informal cellar restaurant hidden away between Largo Argentina and Piazza Campo dei Fiori - in summer, look for the planters and the few outdoor tables. Dark rustic walls are hung with everything from paper garlands to old utensils; there are pottery wine jugs and rush-seat chairs. To start, order spicy Calabria salami or hit the expansive antipasto table, and then go on to pizza or pasta with broccoli or with tomato and eggplant sauce. Grilled meat and seafood make up the list of second courses. Try one of the up-and-coming Calabrian labels on the wine list. DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug.

Le Sans Souci
Via Sicilia 20, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/482-1814
Over EUR52
Veneto
French

All the glitz and glamour of the dolce vita days of Rome in the 1950s lives on in this overdecorated but superb subterranean sanctuary of gourmet delights. Impeccably dressed waiters slide over the carpeted floor, their gait reminiscent of finishing school walking lessons, their smiles captivating but discreet. An elaborate coffered ceiling, mirrors, and painted ceramics from Perugia decorate the main room, in which carved wooden busts of Roman emperors look at one another over tables set in the French fashion. Couples share couches rather than sitting opposite one another (so much easier to see the show) while a guitarist plays sentimental songs. The menu presents both French and Italian dishes, among them truffled terrine de foie gras and various sweet and savory soufflés. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch.

Maccheroni
Piazza delle Coppelle 44, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/6830-7895
Under EUR21
Old Rome
Italian

This boisterous, convivial trattoria north of the Pantheon makes for a fun evening out. The modern decor and airy feel attracts a young clientele, but the menu sticks to Roman basics like simple pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil or spaghetti alla gricia (with bacon, sheep's milk cheese, and black pepper). Appetizers like prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella may not be exciting, but they're eminently satisfying. The homemade panna cotta (baked heavy cream) with chocolate or berry sauce is a perfect way to end the meal. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Mariano
Via Piemonte 79, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/474-5256
EUR21 to EUR36
Veneto
Italian

At this restaurant near Via Veneto, Mariano (who is actually Tonino, Mariano's son-in-law and successor) is an exponent of quality and tradition. Since he leaves flights of culinary fancy to others, you can be sure of finding authentic Roman and central Italian cuisine here, including delicate egg pastas, game, and abbacchio in season. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.

Monserrato
Via di Monserrato 96, Rome, Italy
Phone: 06/687-3386
EUR21 to EUR36
Old Rome
Seafood

Just off Piazza Farnese, this unassuming restaurant has maintained a high level of quality in an area chock-full of tourist traps. Monserrato's signature dishes are its fish specials: carpaccio di pesce spada (swordfish carpaccio, served with lemon and arugula), insalatina di seppie (cuttlefish salad), bigoli con gamberi e asparagi (homemade pasta with shrimp and asparagus), and grilled fish are all simply prepared, exalting the flavor of first-rate ingredients. Umbrella-covered tables on the small, adjacent piazza provide a lovely dining experience in nice weather. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon., Aug., and Christmas.