Mega-star chef Alain Ducasse recently took over the restaurant of the Hotel Plaza-Athénée. The rosy rococo salons, which overlook the prettiest courtyard in Paris, make for a setting nearly as delicious as Ducasse's roast lamb garnished with "crumbs" of dried fruit, or duckling roasted with fig leaves. Other creations, such as sea bass with watercress sauce, are too tame. Still, when you taste the bisque du hommard (lobster bisque) or the pork belly, you know you are getting the real thing. Reservations essential weeks in advance. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends. No lunch Mon.-Wed. Métro: Alma-Marceau.

Alcazar
62 rue Mazarine, Paris, France
Phone: 01-53-10-19-99
EUR12 to EUR38
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Englishman Sir Terence Conran conquered his hometown by creating enormous scene-arena restaurants such as Bluebird in London. Now, he's headed over the Channel to transform this former legendary cabaret into one of the most chic spots in Paris. To take in the scene - and quite a scene it is, as this place seats 300 under a skylight roof, with a dramatic hanging vase - opt for a table on the mezzanine, where a long, brushed-steel bar gives you a bird's-eye view. Recently revamped to satisfy cool Parisians' evolving tastes, the menu now features fish-and-chips and such contemporary dishes as scallops with caramelized Belgian endives. Roasted pears in caramel are a divinely sweet send-off. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Odéon.

Anacréon
53 bd. St-Marcel, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-31-71-18
EUR12 to EUR38
13e Arrondissement (Les Gobelins)
French

André le Letty, who polished his cooking technique at La Tour d'Argent, has transformed a neighborhood café into a pleasant new-wave bistro. Inventive dishes such as pressed duck with red peppercorns and fresh cod with spices have been highlights on the regularly changing menu. Desserts are always good, too, and the St-Joseph is a perfect choice from the wine list. The menu is prix-fixe. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. and Aug. Métro: Les Gobelins.

Astier
44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-57-16-35
EUR12 to EUR23
11e Arrondissement (Bastille/République)
French

The prix-fixe menu at this popular restaurant must be one of the best values in town. Among the beautifully prepared seasonal dishes are baked eggs topped with truffled foie gras, fricassee of joue de boeuf (beef cheeks), rabbit in mustard sauce with fresh tagliatelle, and plum clafoutis (a fruit flan). This is a great place to come if you're feeling cheesy, since it's locally famous for having one of the best plateaux de fromages (cheese plates) in Paris - a giant wicker tray lands on the table and you help yourself. Service can be rushed, but the enthusiastic horde does not seem to mind. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed weekends, Aug. and Christmas wk. Métro: Parmentier.

Au Bon Accueil
14 rue de Montessuy, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-05-46-11
EUR12 to EUR38
7e Arrondissement (Invalides)
French

To see what well-heeled Parisians are eating these days, book a table at this popular bistro. The reasonably priced cuisine du marché (daily menu based on what's in the markets) has made it a hit: typical of the winter fare is roast suckling pig with thyme and endives. Desserts are homemade and delicious, from the fruit tarts to the superb pistache, a pastry curl filled with homemade pistachio ice cream. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed weekends. Métro, RER: Pont de l'Alma.

Au Bourguignon du Marais
19 rue de Jouy, Paris, France
Phone: 01-48-87-15-40
EUR12 to EUR23
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
French

The handsome, contemporary look of this Marais bistro and wine bar is the perfect backdrop for the good traditional fare and excellent Burgundies served by the glass and bottle. Always on the menu are Burgundian classics such as jambon persillé (ham in parsleyed aspic jelly), escargots, and oeufs en meurette (eggs poached in a red wine sauce); another favorite is the steak, served grilled or chopped and nicely seasoned in a tartar. MC, V. Closed weekends and July 14-Aug. 10. Métro: St-Paul.

Au Camelot
50 rue Amelot, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-55-54-04
EUR23 to EUR38
11e Arrondissement (Bastille/République)
French

This minuscule bistro with a single five-course fixed-price menu brings in the crowds, who come for the excellent home-style cooking, some of the best in Paris today. A meal here usually begins with a generous serving of soup, followed by a fish course, a main dish, cheese, and dessert. Chef Didier Varnier trained with guru Christian Constant at the Crillon, and it shows in such creative dishes as pumpkin soup with goat's-cheese ravioli, squid-ink risotto with Dublin Bay prawns, sweet-and-sour duck with dried-fruit tabouleh, and spice bread pudding with lemon cream. Though the place is noisy and very crowded, service is friendly, and the house Bordeaux is a treat. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. Métro: République.

Au Père Tranquille
16 rue Pierre Lescot, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-08-00-34
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
Cafes

One of the best places in Paris for people-watching, this café also offers free entertainment from street artists and local performers. Métro: Les Halles.

Au Petit Colombier
42 rue des Acacias, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-80-28-54
EUR23 to EUR38
17e Arrondissement (Monceau/Clichy)
French

This is a perennial favorite among Parisians, who come to eat comforting cuisine bourgeoise (traditional cuisine) in the warm dining rooms accented with wood and bright copper. Seasonal specialties include milk-fed lamb chop en cocotte (in a small, enameled casserole), game in all its guises, and truffles. Service is friendly and unpretentious. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat. Métro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Étoile.

Au Petit Marguéry
9 bd. de Port Royal, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-31-58-59
Over EUR23
13e Arrondissement (Les Gobelins)
French

So authentic is this bistro that a French film was made about the three brothers who run it - les frères Cousin. The French classics here are more than reliable, but if you're hunting for game this is the place to catch it (in late fall), in such dishes as the deeply flavored lièvre à la royale (hare in a carnivorous wine-and-blood sauce). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends, Christmas wk, and Aug. Métro: Les Gobelins.

Au Pied de Cochon
6 rue Coquillière, Paris, France
Phone: 01-40-13-77-00
EUR12 to EUR23
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
French

After being acquired by the Frères Blanc, who expanded the terrace, this 24-hour classic retains its trademark dishes of breaded pig's trotters with béarnaise and cheesy onion soup. Though tourists make up the bulk of the clientele, Au Pied de Cochon also attracts a frisky crowd of night owls. The terrace is a good spot for people-watching. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Les Halles.

Au Sauvignon
80 rue des Sts-Pères , 7e, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-48-49-02
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

A stylish but jolly Left Bank crowd frequents this homey, friendly spot with an ideally placed terrace. Delicious tartines (open-face sandwiches) are served. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone.

Au Trou Gascon
40 rue Taine, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-44-34-26
EUR23 to EUR38
12e Arrondissement (Bastille/Gare de Lyon)
French

This Belle Epoque establishment off place Daumesnil is run by Alain Dutournier, chef at the high-class restaurant Le Carré des Feuillants. Here, you'll find a slightly more affordable take on the cuisine of Gascony - a region of outstanding ham, foie gras, lamb, and poultry - plus his classic white chocolate mousse. Both lunch and dinner are prix-fixe. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat. Métro: Daumesnil.

Au Vieux Bistrot
30 rue Dunkerque, Paris, France
Phone: 01-48-78-48-01
Under EUR12
10e Arrondissement (République/Gare du Nord)
French

If you're staying near the Gare du Nord or looking for a meal in the area, this pleasant, old-fashioned neighborhood bistro is a good bet. From the big zinc bar to the steak with mushroom sauce and veal in cream, this place delivers a traditional bistro experience. Service is friendly. MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner Sat. Métro: Gare du Nord.

Aux Bons Crus
7 rue des Petits-Champs , 1er, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-60-06-45
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
Cafes

This cramped, narrow venue has an authentic Parisian feel (it dates from 1905). Métro: Bourse.

Aux Crus de Bourgogne
3 rue Bachaumont, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-33-48-24
Under EUR23
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
French

This delightfully old-fashioned bistro, with its bright lights and red-check tablecloths, attracts a happy, lively crowd. Open since 1905, it has been run by the same family since 1932. They made it popular by serving two luxury items - foie gras and cold lobster with homemade mayonnaise - at surprisingly low prices, a tradition that happily continues. Among the bistro classics on the menu, which changes seasonally, you'll find soul-warming winter dishes like boeuf au gros sel (beef boiled in bouillon with vegetables and garnished with rock salt) and confit de canard (duck confit). AE, MC, V. Closed weekends. Métro: Sentier.

Baracane
38 rue des Tournelles, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-71-43-33
EUR12 to EUR23
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
French

Come to this small, plain place for the food, not the atmosphere, which is scant. The menu is robust, with specialties from the owner's native southwestern France - roast lamb with thyme, cassoulet, and madeleine cakes with stewed rhubarb are three delights. The reasonable dinner menu and the even cheaper lunch menu keep Baracane solidly affordable and one of the best values in the Marais. MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Métro: Bastille.

Barrio Latino
46-48 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, Paris, France
Phone: 01-55-78-84-75
Under EUR23
12e Arrondissement (Bastille/Gare de Lyon)
French

The latest mega-seater fashion restaurant in Paris has a specious New York-goes-Puerto Rican theme. The food's passable - just - but the raison d'être for this place is to make the scene and hang out over watery tropical cocktails. As long as you don't mind being sized up by bouncers and know what you're getting into, it can be fun. AE, MC, V. Métro: Bastille.

Bernardaud
11 rue Royale, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-66-22-55
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
Cafes

Decorated by interior-design star Olivier Gagnère, this quiet spot in a covered atrium serves good snacks on the company's own china. Métro: Concorde.

Bistro Mazarin
42 rue Mazarine, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-29-99-01
Under EUR23
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Leave the tourists on boulevard St-Germain and join local gallery owners and students at this casual bistro for satisfying food made to order with fresh ingredients. Lentil salad, steak with Roquefort sauce, or one of two daily fish specials, and a pitcher of the house wine make for a decent meal. In good weather, the terrace is great for people-watching. AE, MC, V. Métro: Mabillon.

Bistrot Côte Mer
16 bd. St-Germain, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-59-10
EUR12 to EUR38
5e Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)
French

Run by celebrated chef Michel Rostang's daughter Caroline, this reasonably priced fish house has become a local hit. Best bets include a celery and apple remoulade with fresh scallops, shrimps cooked a la plancha, and grilled sea bass with black-olive polenta. Though it's not called "Sea Side" for nothing, this bistro does offer two daily meat specials. End with crepes flamed in Grand Marnier - which gives the waiters a chance to ham it up a bit - or the first-rate cocoa soufflé. The dining room can get noisy when full, so if you're out for a peaceful tête-à-tête, request a table on the terrace. AE, MC, V. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité.

Bistrot d'Hubert
41 bd. Pasteur, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-34-15-50
EUR23 to EUR38
15e Arrondissement (Motte-Picquet/Balard)
French

This popular bistro draws a stylish crowd and serves food that perfectly expresses the counter-currents of the Parisian culinary landscape. The prix-fixe menu is split into two parts: "tradition" and "innovation." You might have the crab in a garlic mayonnaise with a pickled cactus garnish, followed by a tuna steak in a "caramel" of balsamic vinegar, or go for the more classic roast lamb. Don't skip the superb tiramisu with chicory ice cream. Service is friendly, and the well-chosen wine list is excellent. The menu is prix-fixe only. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Métro: Pasteur.

Bistrot des Deux Théâtres
18 rue Blanche, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-26-41-43
EUR23 to EUR38
9e Arrondissement (Opéra)
French

Quality is high at this well-run restaurant in the Pigalle-Clichy area. The prix-fixe menu includes apéritif, first and main dishes, a cheese or dessert course, half a bottle of wine, and coffee. The food - foie gras salad, steak with morels, and apple tart flambéed with Calvados - is far from banal. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Trinité.

Bofinger
5-7 rue de la Bastille, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-72-87-82
EUR12 to EUR38
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
French

One of the oldest, most beautiful, and most popular brasseries in Paris has generally improved since brasserie maestro Jean-Paul Bucher took over. Settle in to one of the tables dressed in crisp white linen under the gorgeous Art Nouveau glass cupola, and enjoy classic brasserie fare: oysters, grilled sole, or lamb fillet. The house Muscadet is a good white wine, the Fleurie a pleasant red. Note that the no-smoking section here is not only patrolled but is also in the prettiest part of the restaurant. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Bastille.

Brasserie de l'Ile St-Louis
55 quai de Bourbon, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-02-59
Under EUR12
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
Cafes

In one of the most picturesque parts of the city, this brasserie serves good food on a great terrace. Métro: Pont Marie.

Brasserie Flo
7 cour des Petites-Écuries, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-70-13-59
EUR12 to EUR23
10e Arrondissement (République/Gare du Nord)
French

The first of brasserie king Jean-Paul Bucher's many Paris addresses is hard to find down its passageway near the Gare de l'Est, but it's worth the effort. The rich wood and stained glass are typically Alsatian, and brasserie standards such as shellfish, steak tartar, and choucroute are savory. Order a carafe of Alsatian wine to go with your meal. It's open until 1:30 AM, with a special late-night menu for 138 francs from 10 PM. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Château d'Eau.

Brasserie Lipp
151 bd. St-Germain, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-48-53-91
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

This brasserie, with its early 20th-century decor, was a favorite spot of Hemingway's; today, television celebrities, journalists, and politicians come here for coffee on the small glassed-in terrace off the main restaurant. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

Café Beaubourg
43 rue St-Merri, Paris, France
Phone: 01-48-87-63-96
Under EUR12
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
Cafes

Near the Centre Pompidou, this slick, modern café, designed by Christian de Portzamparc, is one of the trendiest spots to rendezvous for fashion and art types. Omelets and salads are served if you've missed lunch or want a light dinner. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville.

Café d'Angel
16 rue Brey, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-54-03-33
EUR12 to EUR23
17e Arrondissement (Monceau/Clichy)
French

A trendy yuppie crowd frequents this relaxed bistro near the Arc de Triomphe, whose name is echoed in its angel-print tablecloths. The menu changes regularly but offers interesting modern bistro dishes and good value for the money. Try the haddock with green cabbage and horseradish, rabbit compote with radish salad, carpaccio of tuna, delicious venison with wheat risotto and chestnuts, and mille-feuille of oranges and pineapple. MC, V. Closed weekends and 3 wks in Aug. Métro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Étoile.

Café de Flore
172 bd. St-Germain, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-48-55-26
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

Picasso, Chagall, Sartre, and de Beauvoir were regulars here in the early 20th century. It's mostly popular now with tourists. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

Café de l'Industrie
16 rue St-Sabin, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-00-13-53
Under EUR12
11e Arrondissement (Bastille/République)
Cafes

Have a late-afternoon coffee or beer in the warm yellow rooms of this Bastille hangout, where the walls are covered with photos of movie stars. Métro: Bastille.

Café de la Mairie
8 pl. St-Sulpice, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-67-82
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

Preferred by Henry Miller and Saul Bellow to cafes on noisy boulevard St-Germain, this place still retains the quiet and unpretentious air of a local café - although Catherine Deneuve could easily be a passerby here. Métro: St-Sulpice.

Café de la Musique
214 av. Jean-Jaurès, Paris, France
Phone: 01-48-03-15-91
Under EUR12
19e Arrondissement (Buttes-Chaumont/La Villette)
Cafes

This stylish postmodern café is adjacent to the Cité de la Musique in the Parc de La Villette. In the evening it fills up with people attending concerts, but the free jazz on Wednesday night and the interesting crowd make it worth the excursion. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Café de la Place
23 rue d'Odessa, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-18-01-55
Under EUR12
14e Arrondissement (Montparnasse)
Cafes

This café is a charming wood-paneled spot that is perfect for watching the activity inside and out. Métro: Montparnasse.

Café du Dôme
108 bd. Montparnasse, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-35-25-81
Under EUR12
14e Arrondissement (Montparnasse)
Cafes

Now a fancy brasserie, this place began as a dingy meeting place for exiled artists and intellectuals like Lenin, Picasso, and Chaim Soutine. Métro: Vavin.

Café Marly
Cour Napoléon du Louvre 93 rue de Rivoli, Paris, France
Phone: 01-49-26-06-60
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
Cafes

Run by the Costes brothers, this café overlooking the main courtyard of the Louvre and I. M. Pei's glass pyramid is one of the most fashionable places in Paris to meet for a drink. Café service shuts down during meal hours, when overpriced, mediocre food is served. Still, the spectacular decor is a feast for the eyes at any hour. Métro: Palais-Royal.

Café Orbital
13 rue de Médicis, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-25-76-77
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

Have a snack while you access your e-mail or surf the Internet. RER: Luxembourg.

Café Runtz
16 rue Favart, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-96-69-86
EUR12 to EUR23
2e Arrondissement (La Bourse)
French

Next to the noted theater of Salle Favart, this friendly bistro has a cozy but elegant atmosphere, with old brass gas lamps on each table and rich boiseries (woodwork). Tasty, hearty Alsatian dishes include Gruyère salad, onion tart, choucroute, and fresh fruit tarts. Order a pitcher of Riesling or other Alsatian wine to go along. The two prix-fixe menus are a good value; one of them, the "Salé-Sucré," includes quiche with green salad, a fruit tart, and a glass of wine or mineral water and is served all afternoon. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Café Verlet
256 rue St-Honoré, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-60-67-39
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
Cafes

Many Parisians think this compact spot serves the best coffee in town. You can also get sandwiches and delicious tarts. Métro: Tuileries.

Chartier
7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-70-86-29
Under EUR12
9e Arrondissement (Opéra)
French

People come here more for the bonhomie than the menu, which is often stunningly ordinary. This cavernous 1896 restaurant enjoys a huge following among budget-minded students, solitary bachelors, and tourists. You may find yourself sharing a table with strangers as you study the long, old-fashioned menu of such favorites as hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise, steak tartar, and roast chicken with fries. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Montmartre.

Chez Casimir
6 rue de Belzunce, Paris, France
Phone: 01-48-78-28-80
Under EUR23
10e Arrondissement (République/Gare du Nord)
French

Another project of chef Thierry Breton of Chez Michel, this easygoing bistro is equally popular with stylish Parisian professionals. The menu shows Breton's cooking style with dishes like lentil soup with fresh croutons, braised endive and andouille sausage salad, and roast lamb on a bed of Paimpol beans. Good desserts include pain perdu, a version of French toast, eaten for dessert - here it's topped with a roasted pear or whole cherries. The café-style non-decor is inoffensive but the lighting is just a little bit too bright. No credit cards. Closed weekends. Métro: Gare du Nord.

Chez Dumonet-Josephine
117 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-48-52-40
EUR12 to EUR38
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Stylish and convivial, this venerable bistro with amber walls, moleskin banquettes, and frosted glass lamps is popular with theater people and politicians. Generous portions of classic French cuisine are served; typical are the very good boeuf bourguignon and the roasted saddle of lamb with artichokes. The wine list is excellent but expensive. AE, MC, V. Closed weekends and Aug. Métro: Duroc.

Chez Georges
1 rue du Mail, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-60-07-11
EUR12 to EUR38
2e Arrondissement (La Bourse)
French

When you ask sophisticated Parisians to name their favorite bistro, many would choose Georges. The traditional bistro fare is good - herring, sole, kidneys, steaks, and frites (fries) - and the atmosphere is better. A wood-paneled entry leads you to an elegant and unpretentious dining room where one long, white-clothed stretch of tables lines the mirrored walls and attentive waiters sweep efficiently along the entire length. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. Métro: Sentier.

Chez Jenny
39 bd. du Temple, Paris, France
Phone: 01-44-54-39-00
EUR12 to EUR38
3e Arrondissement (Beaubourg/Marais)
French

Taken over by the Frères Blanc group in 1999, this classic two-story brasserie retains its infectious buzz and outstanding choucroute, delivered weekly by a private supplier in Alsace and served with a variety of charcuterie and a big grilled ham knuckle. To finish, the perfectly aged Muenster cheese and homemade blueberry tart are fine choices. Staff in regional dress add authentic Alsatian atmosphere. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: République.

Chez Maître Paul
12 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-74-59
EUR12 to EUR23
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

This calm, comfortable little restaurant is a great place to discover the little-known cooking of the Jura and Franche-Comté regions of eastern France. Though sturdy, this cuisine appeals to modern palates, too, as you'll discover with the montbéliard, a smoked sausage served with potato salad ample enough for two. Also try one of the succulent free-range chicken dishes, either in a sauce of vin jaune - a dry wine from the region that resembles sherry - or baked in cream and cheese. The walnut meringue is wonderfully sinful, and the regional Arbois wines are not the usual selection. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends July-Aug. Metro: Odéon.

Chez Michel
10 rue Belzunce, Paris, France
Phone: 01-44-53-06-20
EUR23 to EUR38
10e Arrondissement (République/Gare du Nord)
French

Enthusiastic young chef Thierry Breton pulls in a stylish crowd with his inspired cooking. The menu changes constantly, but you'll almost invariably find Breton specialties like kig ha farz (a robust pork stew with a bread stuffing). In winter, don't miss Breton's succulent game dishes, like the surprisingly mild-tasting boar chops, served in a cast-iron pot with tiny potatoes and roasted garlic, and deep red venison fillet with a pumpkin gratin. Chez Michel's decor has been brightened up. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. and Aug. Métro: Gare du Nord.

Chez Omar
47 rue de Bretagne, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-72-36-26
EUR12 to EUR23
3e Arrondissement (Beaubourg/Marais)
African

Popular with a high-voltage fashion crowd - yes, that is Vivienne Westwood having dinner with Alexander McQueen - this is the place to come for couscous, whether you're a die-hard fan or have yet to taste this signature North African dish in all its glory. Order it with grilled skewered lamb, spicy merguez sausage, a lamb shank, or chicken and wash it down with robust Algerian or Moroccan wine. The restaurant, in a former 1910 bistro, is overseen by proprietor Omar Guerida, who speaks English and is quite friendly. Since he doesn't take reservations, arrive early or be prepared for a mouthwatering wait. Reservations not accepted. No lunch Sun. Métro: Filles du Calvaire.

Chez Pierre
117 rue de Vaugirard, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-34-96-12
Under EUR23
15e Arrondissement (Motte-Picquet/Balard)
French

Specializing in Burgundian cooking, this small, old-fashioned restaurant has the ambience of a Doisneau photo. The prix-fixe includes such classic starters as oeufs en meurette (poached eggs in red wine sauce) and jambon persillé (parsleyed ham), and main dishes like beef bourguignon and coq au vin. Finish off with a homemade plum tart or a chocolate Bavarois. The short wine list features a good selection of reasonably priced Burgundies. MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Métro: Falguière.

Chez René
14 bd. St-Germain, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-30-23
EUR12 to EUR38
5e Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)
French

Cozy and appealingly shabby, this reliable address at the eastern end of boulevard St-Germain has satisfied three generations of Parisians who come here for, among other things, boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin. As you sit on the red leather banquettes, be sure to sample the wines. MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon., Aug., and late Dec.-early Jan. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine.

Chez Tante Louise
41 rue Boissy d'Anglas, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-65-06-85
EUR12 to EUR23
8e Arrondissement (Champs-Élysées)
French

Chef Bernard Loiseau's three Paris outposts - his original restaurant is in Saulieu in Burgundy - are appealing bastions of traditional Burgundian cooking. Here, he has wisely left the vintage '30s decor almost completely untouched. The food is pleasantly old-fashioned and hearty - like oeufs en meurette à la bourguignonne (poached eggs in red wine sauce with bacon) and sole "Tante Louise," in which a fillet is served on a bed of duxelles (finely chopped mushrooms). Of course, there's a nice selection of Burgundies, and service is prompt and professional for the well-dressed crowd. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends and Aug. Métro: Madeleine.

Claude Sainlouis
27 rue du Dragon, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-48-29-68
EUR12 to EUR38
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

This cheerful spot has served the same dependable food for a long time: steak with frites, lamb knuckle, pork with lentils, salad. There's not much variety, but all those in the know - professionals, tourists, lovers - crowd boisterously into the discreetly lit, red dining room. This bistro recently changed owners after 41 years, but new patron Denis Wagner, who was on staff for 25 years, has made only the subtlest of changes. MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. and Aug. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

Contre-Allée
83 av. Denfert-Rochereau, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-99-86
EUR12 to EUR23
14e Arrondissement (Montparnasse)
French

Left Bank students and professors crowd this large restaurant, simply decorated with bullfighting posters. The menu has original selections such as squid salad with mussels and roast cod with Parmesan; homemade fresh pasta accompanies many dishes. A sidewalk terrace enlivens shady avenue Denfert-Rochereau in summer. The restaurant serves until 11:30 PM. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau.

Estaminet Gaya
17 rue Duphot, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-60-43-03
EUR23 to EUR38
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
Seafood

Seafood dominates the menu here, from marinated anchovies to Basque tuna to bouillabaisse. The colorful Portuguese tiles on the ground floor are delightful; the upstairs dining room, decorated with photos, seems plain in comparison. Given the often exorbitant prices at fish restaurants in Paris, the prix-fixe menu is excellent value. Other prices vary with the day's catch. AE, MC, V. Closed weekends. Métro: Madeleine.

Fogon St-Julien
10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-31-33
EUR12 to EUR23
5e Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)
Spanish

On one of Paris's oldest streets, this intimate, sunny restaurant serves outstanding Spanish food. Begin with tasty tapas, then make a beeline for one of the six superb paellas, such as saffron with seafood, inky squid or Valencia-style with rabbit, chicken, snails, and vegetables. Finish up with custardy crème Catalan, accompanied by a glass of Muscatel, or splurge on one of the excellent Riojas. Reservations essential. MC, V. No lunch weekdays. Métro: St-Michel.

Gérard Besson
5 rue du Coq-Héron, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-33-14-74
Over EUR38
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
French

Chef Besson has mastered a superb classical repertoire, subtly enlivened by creative touches, such as his terrine of Bresse chicken with foie gras and oyster flan or, in season, his lièvre à la royale, braised hare in a luscious truffled sauce. For dessert, sample the distinctive confit of fennel with vanilla ice cream. Other pluses include an excellent wine cellar and a good-value lunch menu. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Jan.-Sept. Métro: Les Halles.

Guy Savoy
18 rue Troyon, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-80-40-61
Over EUR38
17e Arrondissement (Monceau/Clichy)
French

Redecorated by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, who dressed up the space with dark African wood, rich leather (like the inside of a Rolls-Royce), and cream-colored marble, Guy Savoy's luxury restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe has stepped gracefully into the 21st century. The artichoke soup with black truffles, sea bass with spices, and veal kidneys in mustard-spiked jus reveal the magnitude of his talent, and his mille-feuille is a contemporary classic. Half-portions allow you to graze your way through the menu, and reasonably priced wines are available. Best of all, the atmosphere is joyful. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Métro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Étoile.

Hélène Darroze
4 rue d'Assas, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-22-00-11
EUR23 to EUR38
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Hélène Darroze has a creative flair with the tried-and-true classics of southwestern French cooking, from the lands around Albi and Toulouse. The excitingly modern kitchen offers a sublime duck foie-gras confit served with chutney, a scallop and squid salad jeweled with tiny stuffed clams and piquillo peppers, and a blowout of roast wild duck stuffed with foie gras and truffles. Few can resist the île flottante meringue in a rose water-flavored créme anglaise. The crowds mean that service can be slow. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone.

Il Baccello
33 rue Cardinet, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-80-63-60
EUR12 to EUR38
17e Arrondissement (Monceau/Clichy)
Italian

Young chef Raphael Bembaron's talent is pulling crowds to this outpost for first-rate contemporary Italian food. Bembaron trained at Lucas Carton in Paris, Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, and Joia, the gourmet vegetarian restaurant in Milan, and his background comes through in every dish. Appetizers like whole-wheat pappardelle with wild mushrooms and a chickpea soup garnished with pancetta-wrapped langoustines are first rate. Risotto cooked with Barolo wine and garnished with duck breast is also memorable. Finish up with the almond-flavored panna cotta in prune sauce. The dining room is done in sleek minimalist style. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon., Christmas wk, and 3 wks in Aug. Reservations essential. Métro: Wagram.

Jacques Mélac
42 rue Léon Frot, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-70-59-27
Under EUR12
11e Arrondissement (Bastille/République)
French

Robust cuisine matches noisy camaraderie at this popular wine bar-restaurant, owned by mustachioed Jacques Mélac. The charcuterie, salad of preserved duck gizzards, braised beef, and cheeses from central France are all good choices. Monsieur Mélac, who has a miniature vineyard out front, hosts a jolly party at harvest time. There is a non-smoking section, reached by crossing the minimalist kitchen. MC, V. Closed Sun., Aug., and Christmas wk. No dinner Mon. Métro: Charonne.

Jamin
32 rue de Longchamp, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-53-00-07
Over EUR23
16e Arrondissement (Trocadéro/Bois de Boulogne)
French

At this intimate, elegant restaurant, where Joël Robuchon made his name, you can find excellent haute cuisine at almost half the price of other restaurants of its kind. Benoît Guichard, Robuchon's second for many years, is a subtle and accomplished chef and a brilliant saucier (sauce maker). The menu changes regularly, but Guichard favors such dishes as sea bass with pistachios in fennel sauce and braised beef with cumin-scented carrots. The seasonal gratin of rhubarb with a red-fruit sauce makes an excellent dessert. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends, Feb. 10-18, and 3 wks in Aug. Métro: Iéna.

Jules Verne
Eiffel Tower, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-55-61-44
Over EUR38
7e Arrondissement (Invalides)
French

Top-ranked chef Alain Reix's cuisine - not to mention location 400 ft up on the second level of the Eiffel Tower - makes a table at the Jules Verne one of the hardest dinner reservations to get in Paris. Sautéed baby squid with duck foie gras and veal filet mignon are examples of Reix's cooking, which, like the restaurant's private elevator, has its ups and downs. Come for lunch - a table is easier to snag - and be prepared for the distinctive all-black decor, a rather strange and tired hybrid of Star Trek and '70s disco. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Bir-Hakeim.

Julien
16 rue du Faubourg St-Denis, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-70-12-06
EUR12 to EUR23
10e Arrondissement (République/Gare du Nord)
French

Famed for its 1879 decor - think Art Nouveau stained glass - this Belle Epoque dazzler lives up to its oft-quoted moniker, "the poor man's Maxim's." Fare includes smoked salmon, foie gras, stuffed roast lamb, cassoulet, and its famous profiteroles (puff-pastry smothered in chocolate). This place has a strong following with the fashion crowd, so it's mobbed during the biannual fashion and fabric shows. There's service until 1:30 AM, with a special late-night menu from 10 PM. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Strasbourg-St-Denis.

L'Ardoise
28 rue du Mont Thabor, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-96-28-18
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
French

This minuscule storefront is the very model of the new contemporary bistros making waves in Paris. Chef Pierre Jay's first-rate, prix-fixe three-course menu features original dishes, from starters like a flan of crab in creamy emulsion of parsley to entrées like fresh cod with grilled chips of chorizo, served on mashed potatoes. Just as enticing are the desserts, such as a superb feuillantine au citron - sugar-glazed, cinnamon-sprinkled pastry leaves filled with lemon cream and lemon sections. The restaurant has friendly service and a small but well-chosen wine list. Its only drawback is that it's often crowded and noisy. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed Mon.-Tues. Métro: Concorde.

L'Arpège
84 rue de Varenne, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-51-47-33
Over EUR38
7e Arrondissement (Invalides)
French

Alain Passard, one of the most respected chefs in Paris, shocked the French culinary world in late 2000 by eliminating most meat and fish from his menu at L'Arpège in reaction to a series of food scares, the scariest of which is "mad cow" disease (though this is still quite rare in France). He now offers lobster and sea bass when he is sure of the source, and occasionally meat; otherwise, he relies on vegetables supplied by his own producer. This might sound radical for a French chef - and it is - but if anyone can pull it off it should be Passard: his trademark dish, after all, is the "twelve-flavor" tomato stuffed with fruits and spices. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends and Aug. Métro: Varenne.

L'As du Fallafel
34 rue des Rosiers, Paris, France
Phone: 01-48-87-63-60
Under EUR12
5e Arrondissement
Middle Eastern

The long line of hungry folks waiting for their falafel fix here reminds us that the chic Marais area is home to an array of kosher restaurants, delis, and Middle Eastern bakeries. Indeed, look no farther than the fantastic falafel stands on rue de Rosiers for some of the cheapest and tastiest meals in Paris, with the laurel crown usually awarded to this place. Lenny Kravitz paid homage to this standing-room-only restaurant-grocery-deli in a Rolling Stone interview; now, it pays homage to him - the wall is adorned with pictures of Lenny and his former girlfriend, the sexy French sugarpop singer Vanessa Paradis. A falafel costs about 30 francs, but shell out some extra louis d'or for the deluxe with grilled eggplant, cabbage, hummis, tahini, and hot sauce. No credit cards. Closed Sat. Métro: St.-Paul.

L'Astor
Hôtel Astor, 11 rue d'Astorg, Paris, France
Phone: 01-53-05-05-20
EUR23 to EUR38
8e Arrondissement (Champs-Élysées)
French

Chef Eric Lecerf pays homage to his mentor, Joël Robuchon, by offering some classic Robuchon dishes like cauliflower cream with caviar and spiced roasted lobster. But he also shows his own talent with sophisticated offerings like sole with baby squid and artichokes. The service and wine list are superb. Trendy interior designer Frédérique Méchiche is responsible for the spacious and attractive dining room, which takes a cue from the '30s with star appliqués on the walls and a checkerboard carpet. The EUR46 prix-fixe lunch menu is great value. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Madeleine.

L'Avant-Gout
26 rue Bobillot, Paris, France
Phone: 01-53-80-24-00
EUR12 to EUR23
13e Arrondissement (Les Gobelins)
French

For excellent contemporary French cooking at reasonable prices, it's worth seeking out this tiny bistro in a residential part of the city. Though "The Foretaste" can get crowded and noisy, you won't be disappointed by young chef Christophe Beaufront's unusual daily prix-fixe chalkboard menu, which might include dishes like sea bass with creamy celery root and almonds, or steak with roasted shallots. Delicious homemade desserts and a good wine list with a good selection of lower-priced bottles round off the meal. MC, V. Reservations essential. Closed Sun.-Mon., 1st wk in Jan., 1st wk in May, 3 wks in Aug. Métro: Place d'Italie.

L'Épi Dupin
11 rue Dupin, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-22-64-56
EUR23 to EUR38
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Half-timber walls, sisal carpeting, and crisp white table linens are the backdrop for this pocket-size bistro, which draws a loyal business crowd at noon, a mix of Gaultier-clad locals and food-loving tourists at night. The menu of delicious, updated French classics is revised regularly and might include an upside-down tart of caramelized Belgian endive and goat's cheese, curried saddle of rabbit with sweet potato chutney, and crisp, pyramid-shaped pastry filled with apples and candied fennel for dessert. Service is efficient if occasionally brusque. The menu is prix-fixe only. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed weekends. No lunch Mon. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone.

L'Etoile Manquante
34 rue Vieille-du-Temple, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-72-48-34
Under EUR12
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
Cafes

Owned by Xavier Denamur, who runs several stylish cafés in this street, the "Missing Star" is a great spot for people-watching, but the real attraction are the rest rooms: an electric train is just one of the surprises in store. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville, St-Paul.

L'Huîtrier
16 rue Saussier-Leroy, Paris, France
Phone: 01-40-54-83-44
EUR12 to EUR38
17e Arrondissement (Monceau/Clichy)
Seafood

If you share the Parisian craving for oysters, this is the place to find them. The friendly owner will describe the different types available. You can follow these with any of several daily fish specials. The excellent cheeses are from the outstanding shop of Roger Alléosse. Blond wood and cream colors prevail. Should you have trouble getting a table, L'Huîtrier also runs the Presqu'île next door. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. Métro: Ternes.

L'Oeillade
10 rue de St-Simon, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-22-01-60
EUR12 to EUR23
7e Arrondissement (Invalides)
French

The food - shrimp tempura, and calves' liver in a raspberry vinegar sauce - is generally good and the prices unbeatable. Watch out for the wines, as they will intoxicate your bill. The blond-wood paneling and interesting 20th-century paintings are unpretentious. MC, V. Closed Sun. Métro: Rue du Bac.

L'Os à Moelle
3 rue Vasco-de-Gama, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-57-27-27
EUR23 to EUR38
15e Arrondissement (Motte-Picquet/Balard)
French

This popular bistro has a good value, six-course dinner menu that changes daily. A sample meal might include white-bean soup, sautéed foie gras, rouget (red mullet fish), lamb with potato puree, cheese with a small salad, and a delicious roasted pear with cinnamon ice cream. For lunch, there's a short à la carte menu that's just as good. Even with wine, your bill can stay comfortably low. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. and Aug. Métro: Balard.

L'Oulette
15 pl. Lachambeaudie, Paris, France
Phone: 01-40-02-02-12
EUR23 to EUR38
12e Arrondissement (Bastille/Gare de Lyon)
French

Chef-owner Marcel Baudis's take on the cuisine of his native southwestern France is original and delicious, and service here is effusive - qualities that will help you overlook the out-of-the-way location and out-of-date design. The menu changes with the seasons, but you'll always find his trademark dishes: marinated squid, braised oxtail with foie gras and a mousseline of Puy lentils, and pain d'épices (spice cake). The restaurant, in the rebuilt Bercy district, is a bit hard to find, so start out with your map. There is a prix-fixe menu only. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends. Métro: Dugommier.

La Bastide Odéon
7 rue Corneille, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-03-65
EUR23 to EUR38
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Just steps from the Luxembourg Gardens sits this little corner of Provence in Paris - a bright and cheerful restaurant with old oak tables and chairs, and a fine hand with Mediterranean cuisine in the kitchen. Chef Gilles Ajuelos cooks good fish dishes; wonderful pastas, such as tagliatelle in pistou (basil and pine nuts) with wild mushrooms; and heartwarming main courses, like roast suckling pig and cod with capers. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon., 1st wk in Jan., 1 wk in Apr., and 3 wks in Aug. Métro: Odéon; RER: Luxembourg.

La Boulangerie
15 rue des Panoyaux, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-58-45-45
Under EUR12
20e Arrondissement (Père Lachaise)
French

This friendly good-value bistro is a great bet if you're planning on a night out in the increasingly trendy Ménilmontant neighborhood. Occupying an old bakery, this place attracts a relaxed, young local crowd, which comes for the satisfying bistro specials offered on the chalkboard menu. The menu changes daily but runs to dishes like tuna tartar, grilled red mullet on a bed of spinach, pot au feu, and excellent desserts like the rhubarb-filled mille-feuille. MC, V. Closed 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Sat. Métro: Père-Lachaise.

La Butte Chaillot
112 av. Kléber, Paris, France
Phone: 01-47-27-88-88
EUR12 to EUR23
16e Arrondissement (Trocadéro/Bois de Boulogne)
French

Dining here is part theater, as the à la mode clientele demonstrates, but it's not all show: the very good food includes tasty ravioli from the town of Royans, roast free-range chicken with mashed potatoes, and stuffed veal breast with rosemary. A wide sidewalk terrace fronts tree-shaded avenue Kléber. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Trocadéro.

À la Cloche des Halles
28 rue Coquillière, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-36-93-89
Under EUR12
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
French

Forgive the tacky decor and enjoy quiches, oeufs au plat (eggs baked in a flat pan) with ham and cheese, and assortments of high-quality cheeses and charcuterie at this small, popular, crowded wine bar. Served by the glass or bottle, wines include good Beaujolais. Get here by 12:30 PM for lunch; the simple menu is served until 10 PM. No credit cards. Closed Sun. No dinner Sat. Métro: Les Halles.

La Coupole
102 bd. du Montparnasse, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-20-14-20
EUR12 to EUR23
14e Arrondissement (Montparnasse)
French

This famous spot in Montparnasse practically defines the term brasserie. It might have lost its intellectual aura since the Flo group's restoration, but La Coupole has been popular since the days when Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir were regulars and is still great fun. Today it attracts a mix of bourgeois families, tourists, and elderly lone diners treating themselves to a dozen oysters. Expect the usual brasserie menu - including perhaps the largest shellfish platter in Paris - choucroute, and a wide range of over-the-top desserts. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Vavin.

La Crémaillère
15 pl. du Tertre, Paris, France
Phone: 01-46-06-58-59
Under EUR12
18e Arrondissement (Montmartre)
Cafes

Alphonse Mucha frescoes decorate the walls at this veritable monument to 19th-century fin-de-siècle art in Montmartre. Métro: Anvers.

La Fermette Marbeuf
5 rue Marbeuf, Paris, France
Phone: 01-53-23-08-00
EUR12 to EUR38
8e Arrondissement (Champs-Élysées)
French

Graced with one of the most magically beautiful Belle Epoque rooms in town - accidentally rediscovered during renovations in the 1970s - this is a favorite haunt of French TV and movie stars who adore the Art Nouveau mosaic and stained-glass mise-en-scène. The menu features solid, updated classic cuisine. Try the snails in puff pastry, saddle of lamb with choron (a tomato-spiked béarnaise sauce), and bitter chocolate fondant - but ignore the prix-fixe unless you are on a budget, as the chef seems to have cut corners on ingredients. Popular with tourists and businesspeople at lunch, La Fermette becomes truly animated around 9 PM. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

La Grande Armée
3 av. de la Grande Armée, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-00-24-77
EUR12 to EUR23
16e Arrondissement (Trocadéro/Bois de Boulogne)
French

The Costes brothers, who own the most stylish hotel in Paris (the Costes), are perpetually in the forefront of whatever is trendy in town. Their brasserie near the Arc de Triomphe is a great spot to check out their gig, since it's open daily, serves nonstop, and has knockout decor designed by Jacques Garcia, whose super-opulent re-creations of historic salons have won the hearts of the super-rich everywhere. Here he's unleashed an exotic Napoléon III bordello decor - think black lacquered tables, leopard-skin upholstery, Bordeaux velvet, and a carefully tousled clientele picking at those dishes that chic Parisians like best these days - a salad of lamb's lettuce and fresh truffles, and yogurt for dessert. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Étoile.

La Palette
43 rue de Seine, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-68-15
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

In good weather, the terrace is as popular with local art students and gallery owners as it is with tourists. On a rainy afternoon, the interior is cozy. Métro: Odéon.

La Régalade
49 av. Jean-Moulin, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-45-68-58
EUR23 to EUR38
14e Arrondissement (Montparnasse)
French

To satisfy the hungry hordes who trek to the edge of town for his inspired seasonal cooking, Yves Camdeborde does three dinner sittings. The crowded, no-frills setting evokes the provinces, but the food suggests a luxury restaurant. A recent menu included paper-thin Dublin Bay prawn carpaccio, juicy roast capon with chestnuts, fresh duck foie gras pan-fried in spice-bread crumbs, and a bitter dessert of grapefruit in Campari jelly. Camdeborde was one of the first chefs to introduce a limited-choice, prix-fixe menu in Paris and still sets the standard by which his many imitators must be judged. Reservations essential MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. and Aug. Métro: Alésia.

La Robe et le Palais
13 rue des Lavandières-Ste-Opportune , 1er, Paris, France
Phone: 01-45-08-07-41
Under EUR12
11e Arrondissement (Bastille/République)
Cafes

Sample more than 120 wines from all over France, served au compteur (according to the amount consumed). There's also a good bistro that serves lunch and dinner. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles.

La Rotonde
105 bd. Montparnasse, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-68-84
Under EUR12
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
Cafes

The café, a second home to foreign artists and political exiles in the '20s and '30s, has a less exotic clientele today. But it's still a pleasant place to have a coffee on the sunny terrace. Métro: Montparnasse.

La Table d'Aude
8 rue de Vaugirard, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-36-36
EUR12 to EUR23
6e Arrondissement (St-Germain/Montparnasse)
French

Rive Gauche students, senators, and book editors who dine here are on to a good thing, since this jolly restaurant serves some of the best cuisine régionale in Paris. Owner Bernard Patou and his wife, Véronique, take a contagious pleasure in serving up the best of their home turf - the Aude, that long, narrow region in Languedoc-Roussillon that includes Carcassonne and Castelnaudry. Almost everyone orders the cassoulet, bubbling hot in a small, high-sided ceramic dish and filled to the brim with white beans, sausage, and preserved duck. Of the house wines, go with the rich, cherry-colored Corbières. MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat., no dinner Mon. Métro: Odéon.

La Tartine
24 rue de Rivoli, 4e, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-72-76-85
Under EUR12
4e Arrondissement (Marais/Beaubourg/Ile St-Louis)
Cafes

Inexpensive wine and tartines are served in a tatty, almost seedy, late-19th-century environment. This place has antihero status among the rebel cognoscenti. Métro: St-Paul.

La Tour d'Argent
15 quai de la Tournelle, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-54-23-31
Over EUR38
5e Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)
French

A meal at La Tour d'Argent has always been a giddy experience - now, under chef Jean Locussol, the food is once again as scintillating as the view across the Seine. Many of the restaurant's classic dishes are available on the excellent-value EUR54 lunchtime prix-fixe, including the famous pressed duck (caneton), prepared with great ceremony in the dining room. Each serving of duck comes with a numbered card - the restaurant started counting in 1919 and is approaching its millionth mallard. Start with the pike dumplings (quenelles), as fluffy as clouds. If the wine list - more of a Bible, really - seems too daunting, put your faith in one of the 15 sommeliers or go with the relatively affordable suggestions on the day's menu. The lunch crowd is remarkably relaxed and casually dressed, while evenings are a more formal affair, attracting a mix of suited tycoons and smoochy couples. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie at dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine.

La Tour du Montlhéry
5 rue des Prouvaires, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-36-21-82
EUR12 to EUR23
1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles)
French

When the centuries-old Les Halles marketplace became a soulless shopping mall, many neighborhood bistros closed or went upscale. The Montlhéry managed to hang on to the old-market feel, with its sagging wood-beam ceilings, red-check tablecloths, and exposed brick walls lined with imaginative portraits. If you don't mind passing under hanging samples of your next meal (sausages, etc.) on your way to the dining room, then you can enjoy the simple grilled food served by jovial waiters. Go for the côte de boeuf (prime rib) or grilled lamb and wash it down with a good Beaujolais. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed weekends and July 14-Aug. 15. Métro: Les Halles.

Ladurée
16 rue Royale, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-60-21-79
Under EUR12
8e Arrondissement (Champs-Élysées)
Tea

This famous salon de thé serves wonderful lemon and caramel macaroons, little tea sandwiches, and a slew of teas. A new branch - one that also boasts a time-burnished ambience - is at 75 avenue des Champs-Élysées. Métro: Madeleine.

Lapérouse
51 quai des Grands Augustins, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-68-04
Over