It's exciting to hobnob with celebrities and tycoons at this four-story brownstone landmark, a former speakeasy that opened on December 31, 1929. With its large banquettes, red-and-white check tablecloths, and a ceiling hung with toys, the Grill Room is the place to be. In the past the restaurant was mostly noted for the costly signature dish, the "21" burger, but executive chef Erik Blauberg now turns the menu toward inventive New American food with subtle Asian accents. Asian-style seared tuna and seasonal game preparations such as succulent antelope are delicious examples of his style. Dramatic desserts and specialty coffee flambés bring flair to meal's end, and the service is seamless. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

27 Standard
116 E. 27th St. , between Lexington Ave. and Park Ave. S, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/447-7733
$25 to $32
Murray Hill
Contemporary

Jazz is the theme at this spacious, bi-level restaurant on a small strip in Murray Hill that has undergone some recent restaurant revitalization. Downstairs is a serious jazz club, where headlining musicians and vocalists are the major draw. Upstairs is a serious restaurant, where the contemporary cooking of chef Matthew Lake brings people in. Select from a variety of salads (mushroom is a favorite), beer-battered oysters, cashew chicken, pan-fried cod, and other satisfying choices. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

71 Clinton Fresh Food
71 Clinton St. , between Stanton and Rivington Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/614-6960
$15 to $24
Lower East Side
Contemporary

The name does little to indicate the sophisticated experience that awaits at this off-the-beaten-path restaurant. Food really is the focus here - though the decor of the small, intimate room is certainly pleasant enough. A striking appetizer features smoked salmon wrapped around avocado and served with pickled horseradish; black sea bass is encrusted with rye and soy and roasted until crisp; and short ribs are braised in beer and served with hanger steak and chervil spaetzle. The goat cheese tart with crisped potato and applewood-smoked bacon is simple but right on target. The success of this place proves that New Yorkers really will travel anywhere for a good meal. Follow their lead. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Aesop's Tables
1233 Bay St. , at Maryland Ave., Rosebank, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 718/720-2005
Under $24
Staten Island
Contemporary

Though Manhattan dwellers don't often venture to Staten Island, this New American restaurant near the ferry is a good choice for a first excursion. Its pretty garden overlooks the Manhattan skyline, and the contemporary American food is reasonably priced and well prepared. The menu changes daily. Look for dishes such as bacon-wrapped monkfish medallions and pan-seared duck breast with winter squash and pancetta risotto. AE, MC, V.

Al di la Trattoria
248 5th Ave. , at Carroll St., Park Slope, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 718/783-4565
Under $24
Brooklyn
Italian

You know you are approaching it when you see small clusters of people on the sidewalk waiting patiently for a table. Inside, the decor is comfortably rustic, with pretty curtains, plain wood tables, and vintage decorations. The menu, though, is the real draw - simple Italian food prepared without too much flourish, but with plenty of care. Homemade pastas such as malfatti, a vegetable gnocchi with ricotta and Parmesan, are generously flavored, and entrées like charred hanger steak tagliata with arugula truly hit the spot. MC, V. No lunch.

Alain Ducasse New York
Essex House, 155 W. 58th St. , between 6th and 7th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/265-7300
Over $32
Midtown West
French

The arrival in New York of France's most decorated chef created quite a stir in 2000. Could he get away with charging more than anyone else in this already overpriced city? The short answer is yes: Alain Ducasse New York has evolved into one of the most drop-dead fabulous dining experiences the city has ever seen. Much has been made of opulent flourishes such as the stools on which to place your purse and the opportunity to select your own steak knife, but the pomp has been pared down, and the menu is now a prix-fixe format. For that you get on-the-ball service that manages to be friendly and unintimidating; food that sings with the freshness of seasonal ingredients, like the line-caught sea bass with lemon rock salt and citrus fondue; a parade of sweets that includes all manner of eye-popping delights - petits fours, madeleines, fresh cherry tarts, lollipops, and more - that you are encouraged to take home; and a freshly baked brioche bagged and waiting for you at the door as you leave. It's worth maxing out your credit card. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sat., Sun. No lunch Mon., Tues., or Fri.

Alouette
2588 Broadway , between 97th and 98th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/222-6808
$15 to $24
Upper West Side
French

What? A serious French restaurant north of 96th Street? It's true. Like one of Paris's out-of-the-way bistros, this neighborhood restaurant has people hopping in cabs for dinner so they can sample signature dishes such as rabbit sausage en croûte and spinach dumplings with Riesling sauce. Although the prices are high for the locale, the value is certainly there. And the casual setting is comfortable and un-stuffy. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Amarin Cafe
716 Manhattan Ave. , between Driggs and Nassau Sts., Williamsburg, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 718/349-2788
Under $15
Brooklyn
Thai

A little community of Thai restaurants has developed in Williamsburg and Greenpoint, including this small, nondescript Thai café with food that keeps people coming back. The green papaya salad (practically Thailand's national dish) is tangy and delicious. The noodle dishes are fresh and fragrant with kaffir lime, tamarind, and opal basil. And the braised curries are fire-engine hot. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards.

American Park at the Battery
Battery Park, opposite 175 State St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/809-5508
$15 to $32
Lower Manhattan
Contemporary

On the water with an incredible view of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, this restaurant is part of the revamp of Battery Park. True to the spirit of New York, chef Rad Matmati's menu is more or less American, with flavors borrowed from many cuisines. An outdoor café opens right onto the water. Also outside is an ingenious table for groups of 10-12 that has a hollowed out pool in the middle, where your family-style dinner floats in wooden dishes. Alas, the setting somehow surpasses the food, but the overall experience doesn't disappoint. American Park is closed until further notice. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Annisa
13 Barrow St. , between Bleecker and W. 4th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/741-6699
$15 to $32
Greenwich Village
Contemporary

Anita Lo and her partner Jennifer Schism have transformed this once dreary space into a bright, elegant restaurant. They built a platform to elevate the dining room and back-lit a wall of white sheer curtains to create a soft airiness. Lo's food is similarly light and creative. The menu is modern French, though Asian influences poke through. Soft-shell crab on a corn and sea urchin salad and falafel-stuffed squash blossoms are tempting openers. Pan-roasted chicken stuffed with pig's feet and truffles is an earthy entrée delight. The wine list, created by Roger Dagorn of Chanterelle, features the work of women winemakers and winery owners. From the creative hors d'oeuvres to the delicate petit fours, Annisa raises the bar (and the price tag) on neighborhood dining. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Aquagrill
210 Spring St. , at 6th Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/274-0505
$15 to $32
SoHo
Seafood

For an island at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, Manhattan has surprisingly few good seafood restaurants, especially downtown. But Aquagrill has a friendly staff, comfortable decor, and an extensive menu that places it among the best. Chef-owner Jeremy Marshall mans the stove, while his wife, Jennifer, works the host stand. Specialties include tiny pillows of garlic-drenched escargot baked in homemade puff pastry and falafel-crusted salmon served on hummus with tomato and cucumber. Then there's a vast selection of oysters on the half shell and many types of grilled fresh fish. Of the desserts, don't miss the skillet cake or the pink grapefruit gratin. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC. Closed Mon.

Aquavit
13 W. 54th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/307-7311
Over $32
Midtown West
Scandinavian

Cool as a dip in the Baltic Sea, this airy atrium that was once Nelson Rockefeller's town house is decorated with contemporary art, Roger Smith kites, and an inspiring waterfall. The nouveau Swedish fare of wunderkind chef Marcus Sammuelsson is dressed in chic contemporary garb and offered only through a prix-fixe menu in the main dining room. Forget herring, smoked eel, lingonberries, and pea soup (although they're better here than anywhere else): think miso-glazed lobster in carrot-ginger broth and halibut in marrow crust. Desserts are equally creative and delicious. An upstairs dining room is less formal and less expensive. Appropriately, New York's largest selection of aquavits keeps company with the well-chosen wine list. Sunday brunch is literally a smorgasbord. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Ariel's
1407 Broadway , between 38th and 39th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/575-1407
$15 to $24
Midtown West
Kosher

To read the menu at Ariel's you would never suspect it came from a kosher restaurant. Thai chicken egg rolls, Argentinian smoked veal chop with honey roasted potatoes, and Southwestern-style tuna share the page with traditional dishes such as brisket, roast chicken, and matzoh ball soup. The large, wood-paneled dining room has a festive atmosphere, with tables surrounded by large families that all look like they are having fun. The wine list, which features fine kosher bottles (yes, there's more than Manishewitz), is surprisingly extensive. Other location: 9 E. 37th St., between 5th and Madison Aves., PHONE: 212/725-0130. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sat.

Artie's Delicatessen
2290 Broadway , between 82nd and 83rd Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/579-5959
Under $15
Upper West Side
Delicatessens

In a spot that has the feel of a long-established delicatessen, Jeffrey Banks and Chris Metz focus on the food, and the attention shows. The pastrami - made from a recipe bought at auction from the famous Bernstein's - is hot, spicy, and rich. And everything served around it, from the coleslaw to the kasha knish, are up there with the best, too. The only thing lacking is the service, which can leave you hanging for a refill of water or the check. But Artie's competitors have had decades to develop the classic deli formula of rude yet efficient service, and given time this relative newcomer is bound to catch on. To save yourself the worry, get it to go from the takeout counter. AE, D, MC, V.

Arturo's
106 W. Houston St. , off Thompson St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/677-3820
Under $32
Greenwich Village
Pizza

Few guidebooks list this brick-walled Village landmark, but the jam-packed room and the smell of well-done pies augur a good meal to come. The pizza is terrific, cooked in a coal-fired oven. Basic pastas as well as seafood, veal, and chicken concoctions with mozzarella and lots of tomato sauce come at giveaway prices. Let everyone else stand in line at John's Pizzeria on Bleecker Street. AE, MC, V.

Atlas
40 Central Park S , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/759-9191
Over $32
Midtown West
Contemporary

Located on a swank strip of New York real estate, and serving only from a prix-fixe menu, Atlas feels like a very cosmopolitan restaurant. The space is tasteful and sophisticated with a marble floor, a sculptural globe that spins from time to time, and a small bar in front. The tables are well appointed and widely spaced, with attractive seasonal flower arrangements. Service is solicitous and professional. One might expect a very safe menu in such a coddling setting, but the cocky young chef, Paul Leibrandt, delivers anything but. Poached chicken jus gras (in a rich broth) may sound simple, but it comes with an unusual risotto heavily scented with herbs. Eel paired with watermelon and crystallized violets misses the mark, but Leibrandt's culinary daring should be applauded anyway. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. Close Sun. No lunch.

Aureole
34 E. 61st St. , between Madison and Park Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/319-1660
Over $32
Upper East Side
Contemporary

Charlie Palmer's once fashionable prix-fixe-only restaurant, with its alluring bas-reliefs, striking floral displays, and swank town-house location, is a long-standing favorite, although these days the clientele is usually from out of town. Presentations are striking architectural constructions that on occasion leave you wishing more attention were paid to the taste than the look. Steer clear of the sea scallops, which are sandwiched between two potato latkes and fried until overcooked. Instead order the fricassee of lobster with Provençale artichokes or the pepper-seared tuna on green-onion risotto. Meat and game dishes are served in large, satisfying portions. Desserts are stunning visual masterpieces - the bittersweet chocolate and praline "opera" with caramelized hazelnut nougats is a high-rise wonder that requires some dexterity to dissect without destroying it. The small pristine garden is open in the summer. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Avenue
520 Columbus Ave. , at 85th St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/579-3194
$15 to $24
Upper West Side
French

Scott Campbell's French bistro in the gastronomic no-man's-land of Upper Columbus Avenue has proven a success. The accent is French, and the food, at its best, is satisfying and delicious. At lunch and weekend brunch you place your order at the counter; at dinner there is table service, albeit sometimes indifferent and slow. During the day you can choose from an array of freshly baked French pâtisserie, eggs, pancakes, sandwiches, and salads. The seasonal bill of evening fare usually includes a selection of salads, soups, pâtés, and individual tartlets to start. Intermediate plates include tuna tartare on sesame spinach, succulent crab cakes, and goat cheese ravioli. Large plates tend toward serious main courses of smoked loin of pork, steak frites, and roasted duckling. AE, MC, V.

AZ
21 W. 17th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/691-8888
Over $32
Flatiron District
Contemporary

To get to the roof-top dining room of this sizzling Flatiron restaurant you must suffer an impatient crowd trying to squeeze into the first-floor lounge, an attitude-throwing hostess, and a claustrophobic ride in a glass elevator. Thankfully, once you leave the elevator, you can breathe a little easier because of the numerous plants, the spacious table arrangement, and the atrium ceiling that opens in warm weather. And once you tuck into Patricia Yeo's globe-trotting prix-fixe menu of tempura soft-shell crabs, duck schnitzel, tea-smoked chicken, and the like, you'll probably leave all the commotion behind - that is, if you don't let the under-zealous and over-attitudinal service get to you. Reservations essential. No open-toe shoes for men. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Babbo
110 Waverly Pl. , between MacDougal St. and 6th Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/777-0303
$25 to $32
Greenwich Village
Italian

After your first bite of the kitchen's ethereal homemade pasta or the tender suckling pig, you won't wonder why this place was an instant sensation when it opened, and why reservations are still so hard to get. A five-course pasta tasting menu is the best way to get your fill of fresh noodles, such as the luscious fresh mint "love letters" with lamb sausage or the rich beef-cheek ravioli. Adventuresome eaters will rejoice in the delicious lamb's tongue salad or the custardy brain ravioli, but more timid diners gravitate toward such simple dishes as succulent whole fish baked in salt. The only challenge is getting a reservation. Once you're finally seated, the service is friendly. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Baldoria
249 W. 49th St. , between Broadway and 8th Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/582-0460
$15 to $32
Midtown West
Italian

Frank Pellegrino's beloved Rao's, an Italian dining institution in Harlem, is so impossible to get into that it was dropped from Fodor's guides years ago. But lucky for everyone, last year Frank Pellegrino Jr. set up shop downtown in the theater district. The bi-level restaurant is almost 10 times the size of the original, but the atmosphere is almost as homey and personal. Many of the signature dishes that made the original restaurant famous are served, perhaps the best among them an inexplicably wonderful fusilli with sausage and cabbage in red sauce. Other exemplary dishes include a large veal chop smothered with wild mushrooms and an excellent grilled octopus. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Balthazar
80 Spring St. , between Broadway and Crosby St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/965-1414
$15 to $32
SoHo
French

When he opened this celebrity-friendly spot, restaurant impresario Keith McNally, of Odeon and Pastis fame, went to extraordinary lengths to re-create the look and feel of a Parisian brasserie. Balthazar is still going strong and it may be difficult to get a reservation at a normal dinnertime, but they will seat you until 1:30 AM. Nightly specials are based on classic French dishes; Tuesday it's choucroute garni (veal and garlic sausages, smoked meats, sauerkraut, and juniper simmered in white Alsatian wine). The roast chicken for two is hard to beat. Wonderful bread is baked in the restaurant's own bakery; you can buy some at the tiny shop next door. Prices are not exorbitant by today's standards, the wine list is fair, and average (read: not famous) diners are treated quite well. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Barbetta
321 W. 46th St. , between 8th and 9th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/246-9171
Over $25
Midtown West
Italian

Operated by the same family since it opened in 1906, Barbetta offers a uniquely authentic Piemontese experience. The ornately luxurious throwback of a dining room evokes the Old-World atmosphere of royal Turin, seat of the Savoy kingdom. The food on the seasonally changing menu is classic for the area: fonduta (made of melted Fontina cheese, eggs, and truffles), agnolotti del plin (similar to ravioli), bue al Barolo (beef braised in red wine), and fresh-baked cakes and tortes for dessert. The more creative dishes aren't always successful, but the mature, professional staff dotes. When white truffles are in season (October through December) there is no better place to enjoy them; they are imported from the owner's estate in Italy, where she keeps her own truffle hounds. A beautiful garden is a lovely summertime setting. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. in winter.

Barney Greengrass
541 Amsterdam Ave. , between 86th and 87th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/724-4707
Under $24
Upper West Side
American/Casual

The self-proclaimed sturgeon king, grass hasn't changed its formula since this Jewish "appetizing" take-out shop and restaurant opened in 1908: good food, friendly, in-your-face service, Formica, and plenty of salt. Four generations later, the wait can sometimes reach two hours during prime weekend brunch time. Order anything with smoked salmon or sturgeon - scrambled eggs with onions; bagels or bialys with cream cheese, tomato, and red onion; or the austere platters of fish. A full range of Jewish food is available, including glasses of chilled borscht with sour cream, potato knishes that are split in half and toasted, and chopped liver that some consider the embodiment of fine Jewish cuisine. Finish with an individual chocolate babka "muffin." MC, V. No credit cards on weekends. Closed Mon.

Bayard's
1 Hanover Sq. , between Pearl and Stone Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/514-9454
Over $25
Lower Manhattan
French

A historic change has happened in the kitchen of this elegant restaurant, in the building that once housed the India House private merchant's club. Eberhard Müller, a darling of uptown dining (he once manned the stoves at Le Bernardin), suddenly left his post at Lutèce to migrate south. Müller's cooking is as sophisticated as the nautical-theme decor and much more contemporary. Some of the produce comes from his Long Island farm, and it finds itself incorporated into succulent dishes such as crisp snapper with a ragoût of artichoke, carrot, and celery; tender quail on a bed of Savoy cabbage; and rack of lamb with a mustard-honey glaze. The restaurant remains a private club at lunch. At dinner the energy of the room ranges from sedate to somnambulant. If you can't get a reservation for a fine meal anywhere on a Saturday night, remember you can probably get in here. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Beacon
25 W. 56th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/332-0500
Over $25
Midtown West
American

Chef Waldy Malouf has established himself in this multilevel restaurant just around the corner from the Rainbow Room, his former home. Meat, fish, and even vegetables roast in his wood-fired oven, with delicious results. The crusty bread, baked on the premises, is also notable, as are the rich, satisfying desserts by pastry chef Martin Howard, another Rainbow alum. Although the atmosphere is Midtown business, the simple, almost rustic food pleases people from all walks of life. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Becco
355 W. 46th St. , between 8th and 9th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/397-7597
Over $15
Midtown West
Italian

In general, Restaurant Row caters (poorly) to a clientele that wants to eat quickly before or after the theater. Becco is one of the only restaurants specifically to plan its menu to accommodate the demands of this audience. The restaurant offers two pricing scenarios: one includes an all-you-can-eat selection of three or four pastas served hot out of pans carried around the dining room by waiters; the other starts with the pastas and concludes with a generous entrée. Either way you'll be in and out quickly, and you won't leave hungry. The selection changes daily but often includes gnocchi, fresh ravioli, and something in a cream sauce. The entrées include braised lamb shank, veal, and an assortment of fish. If you have room, which is unlikely, order the bread pudding for dessert. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Benito II
163 Mulberry St. , between Broome and Grand Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/226-9012
Under $24
Little Italy
Italian

As at most of the remaining Italian restaurants on this stretch of Mulberry Street, atmosphere and food are less than top-notch here. But unlike its neighbors (including the separately owned Benito I across the street), Benito II doesn't pretend to be anything but a decent, cheap place to eat. The tomato sauce tastes freshly made and the spaghetti is cooked al dente. What more could you want? For a filling meal try anything alla parmigiana. There is no shortage of garlic and the service is always friendly. No credit cards.

Blue Ribbon
97 Sullivan St. , between Prince and Spring Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/274-0404
$15 to $32
SoHo
Eclectic

Open for dinner from 4 PM until 4 AM, Bruce and Eric Bromberg's small American bistro is a popular hangout for off-duty chefs and other night crawlers, and it is common to have to wait for a table even at three in the morning. The staff has a knack of making everyone feel like a regular, and in fact most of the patrons are. There is a raw bar in front with terrifically fresh oysters and other seasonal delicacies from the sea. The something-for-everyone menu offers dishes from around the world - excellent sautéed sweetbreads, a towering pupu (Hawaiian hot and cold appetizers) platter, a duck club sandwich, and matzoh ball soup. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Blue Ribbon Bakery
33 Downing St. , at Bedford St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/337-0404
$15 to $32
Greenwich Village
French

When the owners of Blue Ribbon and Blue Ribbon Sushi renovated this space they uncovered a 100-year-old coal-burning oven made from Italian tile. They were so happy with their discovery, they let the oven dictate the destiny of their restaurant. They built a bakery-restaurant with an eclectic menu featuring substantial sandwiches on homemade bread (from the oven, of course) and entrées that include trout and Cornish game hen. A whole section of the menu presents small plates of charcuterie, pâté, aged cheeses, and tapas-style dishes. The basement dining room (which has more atmosphere) is dark and intimate; upstairs is a Parisian-style café, perfect for lingering over a glass of good wine from the well-chosen list. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Blue Ribbon Sushi
119 Sullivan St. , between Prince and Spring Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/343-0404
Over $15
SoHo
Japanese

Though the sushi is pricier than at some of the popular Japanese restaurants in the neighborhood, they can't compete with this narrow, wood-lined restaurant for freshness, creativity, or atmosphere. Owned by the same people who own Blue Ribbon and Blue Ribbon Bakery, Blue Ribbon Sushi is also open late and has a fun, downtown vibe. A decent sake selection is served in traditional wooden boxes. If you see a line out the door, blame the first-come, first-served policy (no reservations), but it's worth the wait. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Blue Water Grill
31 Union Sq. W , at 16th St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/675-9500
Over $15
Union Square
Seafood

A copper-and-tile raw bar anchors one end of this warm, sweeping room of indigo, siena, and yellow. The original 1904 molded ceiling and marble everywhere recall the space's former life as a bank. Strong on fresh seafood served neat (chilled whole lobster, shrimp in the rough), the menu also has international flair - Moroccan-spiced red snapper, Maryland crab cakes, warm shrimp cocktail in bamboo steamers with Japanese and Shanghai sauces - and simple preparations that issue forth from a wood-burning oven. For dessert, try the brownie ice-cream sundae. A lounge and dining room in the basement vault features live jazz. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Bolo
23 E. 22nd St. , between Broadway and Park Ave. S, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/228-2200
$25 to $32
Flatiron District
Italian

With its tile-edge brick oven, primary color scheme, open kitchen, and polished wood bar, Bolo's design fuses Manhattan and some fictional version of Barcelona. Bobby Flay's loosely Spanish-inspired food takes aim at New York palates, but it doesn't always hit: green onion gazpacho is refreshing and spicy, but squid ink risotto is gummy and overcooked. If you're not in the mood for sangria, select from the well-priced wine list. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Bond Street
6 Bond St. , between Broadway and Lafayette St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/777-2500
$15 to $32
East Village
Japanese

The hipper-than-thou setting - sheer curtains, sleek black tables, and taupe screens - matches the look of the ultra-chic people who dine on the contemporary Japanese fare at Bond Street. The sushi is well prepared, with offerings you will not find in many other restaurants, such as four types of yellowtail and tuna or a selection of unusual caviars. The kitchen does an admirable job of preparing interesting alternatives to raw fish, such as rack of lamb with Asian pear and shiso (an aromatic green) sauce and hot buckwheat soba soup with duck and scallion. But be warned: as is the case in many restaurants where the waitstaff is better dressed than the clientele, the service can be maddening. AE, MC, V.

Bottino
246 10th Ave. , between 24th and 25th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/206-6766
$15 to $32
Chelsea
Italian

Despite some convincing evidence to the contrary, chic people dressed in black like good food too. They get it all'italiana at this smartly designed west Chelsea restaurant, where a table is almost as hard to get as at Balthazar or Daniel. The menu is straightforward - fresh mozzarella with tomato and basil or ripe Anjou pears with Tuscan pecorino to start; homemade leek tortelloni, grilled salmon, roast chicken, lamb, or steak to follow. In the summer, a garagelike glass door opens to a secluded garden. Service is slow but friendly. The namesake take-out shop next door, Bottino (248 8th Ave., between 24th and 25th Sts., PHONE: 212/206-6766), has a nice selection of Italian lunch items. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.-Mon.

Bouley Bakery
120 W. Broadway , between Duane and Reade Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/964-2525
Over $25
TriBeCa
French

Under a vaulted red ceiling, fresh flower arrangements grace each table at David Bouley's bakery-cum-restaurant. Gone is the cumbersome table-side bread service, but the waiters' snooty attitude remains. Bouley's devotion to the freshest local produce is evident in the asparagus and peeky-toe crab salad. Unlikely combinations, such as roasted foie gras with green coffee-bean sauce and horseradish-pickled cherries, and salmon with organic vegetables and toasted hazelnut dressing, exemplify his innovative style. Bouley Bakery is temporarily closed for food preparation for Ground Zero. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Brasserie
100 E. 53rd St. , between Lexington and Park Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/751-4840
$15 to $32
Midtown East
French

If ever there was a Midtown restaurant with a downtown vibe, this ultra-modern rathskeller brasserie fits the bill. The award-winning design by architects Diller & Scofidio uses molded pearwood, lime green resin, pastry-bag sculptures, and digital flat-screen technology to create an otherworldly eating environment. As an added bonus, the contemporary brasserie fare - served from morning to late night - is excellent. The baguettes are superb and the daily specials speak French without an accent. Don't leave without sampling dessert or taking a trip to the cool bathroom. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Brasserie 8 1/2
9 W. 57th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/829-0812
$15 to $32
Midtown West
French

The less attractive sister to Brasserie, this subterranean restaurant nevertheless has some visual and culinary charms of its own. The dramatic staircase releases you into a spacious cocktail lounge with black leather sofas, where drinks made with unusual-flavor vodkas are offered. The dining room is lined with serious modern art, and the menu is flush with the creative cooking of Julian Alonzo. Nothing Fellini-esque, just solid contemporary French cooking. The frites alone are worth a trip to Midtown. AE, D, MC, V.

Bright Food Shop
216 8th Ave. , between 21st and 22nd Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/243-4433
$15 to $24
Chelsea
Eclectic

Asia and the American Southwest meet at this converted coffee shop, one of the first restaurants to find its way to 8th Avenue before Chelsea's gentrification in the 1990s. The atmosphere is early 20th-century lunch counter, but the food is from some futuristic place. Don't be scared by bizarre-sounding concoctions such as "salmon wonton tostadas" and "moo shu mex vegetable handrolls with chipotle peanut sauce": somehow the kitchen manages to make this mega-fusion cooking taste good. The flavors are bold and the portions are filling. An equally eclectic menu is available for breakfast, brunch, and lunch, and a simpler takeout menu is available next door at Kitchen Market. No credit cards.

Brothers Bar-B-Q
225 Varick St. , at Clarkston St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/727-2775
Under $24
Greenwich Village
Barbecue

This barnlike space has a lounge decorated in the style of the American South circa 1949, with hair dryers; tacky period plastic furniture; signs from Texaco, Esso, and Shell; even a garage door. Sample the puffy hush puppies with hot sauce, smoked sausage over black-eyed peas, fried wings and smoked rib tips in bourbon sauce, shrimp po' boy sandwiches, and terrific chicken and ribs. Several combination plates allow you to try a variety of barbecued meats. There's a wide selection of tequila shots, plus 11 bottled beers and seven beers on tap. AE.

Bubby's
120 Hudson St. , at N. Moore St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/219-0666
Under $24
TriBeCa
American/Casual

Crowds clamoring for coffee and freshly squeezed juice line up for brunch at this TriBeCa mainstay. The dining room is homey and comfortable with attractive furnishings and plate-glass windows; in summer, neighbors bring their dogs and sit outside. For breakfast you can order grits, homemade granola, or such entrées as sour cream pancakes and smoked trout with scrambled eggs. Eclectic comfort food - macaroni and cheese, fusilli with wild mushrooms, shepherd's pie - make up the lunch and dinner menus. Be sure to get a piece of homemade pie for dessert. AE, DC, MC, V.

Café Bianco
1486 2nd Ave. , between 77th and 78th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/988-2655
Under $15
Upper East Side
Cafes

Settle in here for excellent coffee, sinful desserts (such as the chocolate-covered tartufo), and light meals. In warm weather, try the back garden with its pint-size pond.

Café Boulud
20 E. 76th St. , at Madison Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/772-2600
Over $25
Upper East Side
French

At Daniel Boulud's "casual bistro" in the Surrey Hotel, only the atmosphere is relaxed; the food and service are as serious and as disciplined as ever. Though overseen by Boulud, the cafe's kitchen is now in the hands of Andrew Carmellini, late of Le Cirque 2000, Lespinasse, and San Domenico. The collaboration results in a four-part menu: under La Tradition you'll find such classic French dishes as baked fresh pork belly with lentils; Le Potager is flush with tempting vegetarian offerings such as oven-roasted vegetable casserole; La Saison reflects the bounty of the market, which if you are lucky will include white truffles or fresh fava beans; and Le Voyage is where the kitchen interprets the myriad cuisines of the world. One month you might find yourself in Italy, eating a dish of freshly made maccheroni alla chitarra - pasta that is slightly thicker than usual, cut on a wire "guitar" and resembling square-cut spaghetti - and the next you could be in Vietnam enjoying fish steamed with ginger, soy, and garlic. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.-Mon.

Café des Artistes
1 W. 67th St. , at Central Park W, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/877-3500
$25 to $32
Upper West Side
Continental

Howard Chandler Christy murals of nymphs at play grace the walls of this sensual belle epoque dining room owned by Hungarian restaurant impresario and writer George Lang. The food, very disappointing on a culinary level but somehow satisfying on a nostalgic one, complements the setting. Four-way salmon - smoked, poached, dill-marinated, and raw - is one of the starters; pot-au-feu, the French boiled dinner, is presented with bone marrow and traditional accompaniments. Desserts are classic and appealing; the mocha dacquoise layers hazelnut meringue with French butter cream. For wines, go with the George Lang selections, especially Gundel wines from Hungary. Brunch is particularly festive. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, DC, MC, V.

Café Habana
17 Prince St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/625-2001
Under $15
SoHo
Latin

When they opened this small Latin-theme restaurant the owners, who also operate Rialto down the block, wanted it to remain the neighborhood hangout the previous occupants had managed to create. The simple Cuban-Latin menu reflects the friendly, casual atmosphere: Cubano sandwiches, rice and beans, and camarones al ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce), all at budget prices. True to their vision, the cheery space with blue booths and pale green Formica tables fills with locals eating breakfast in the afternoon, chatting with the waitresses, and humming along to Latin beats. AE, DC, MC, V.

Café La Fortuna
69 W. 71st St. , between Columbus Ave. and Central Park W, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/724-5846
Under $15
Upper West Side
Cafes

Weary Columbus Avenue strollers have long flocked to this comforting refuge that offers Italian pastries, serious coffee, and opera music. In summer enjoy an iced cappuccino with a chocolate Italian ice in the garden out back.

Cafe Lalo
201 W. 83rd St. , between Broadway and Amsterdam Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/496-6031
Under $15
Upper West Side
Cafes

Linger over cappuccino, liqueurs, and crossword puzzles at this flashy, Toulouse Lautrec-theme spot off Amsterdam Avenue. Some cakes fall short of their menu descriptions.

Café Luxembourg
200 W. 70th St. , between Amsterdam and West End Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/873-7411
$15 to $32
Upper West Side
French

This lively, sophisticated bistro with arched windows and a zinc-top bar, operated by the same crew responsible for TriBeCa's ever-trendy Odeon, has a definite downtown vibe, rare among the restaurants in this uptown neighborhood. The café is a terrific spot for a post-Lincoln Center meal. The menu offers classic bistro dishes such as cassoulet, steak frites, and roast duck, as well as a decent selection of wines. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Mon.

Cafe Mozart
154 W. 70th St. , between Broadway and Columbus Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/595-9797
Under $24
Upper West Side
Cafes

Images of Mozart cover the walls at this spot that's perfect after a night at Lincoln Center. Creamy desserts are the specialty. A pianist or classical duo often performs. On Friday and Saturday nights it's open until 3 AM, on other nights until 1.

Caffè Dante
79-81 MacDougal St. , between Houston and Bleecker Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/982-5275
Under $15
Greenwich Village
Cafes

A longtime Village haunt, this convivial spot has superlative espresso and knockout tiramisu. The regulars here have been coming for years.

Caffe Rafaella
134 7th Ave. S , between 10th and Charles Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/929-7247
Under $15
Greenwich Village
Cafes

Parchment-paper lamp shades adorned with fluttering red fringe, variously hued marble-top tables, and an antiques-store assortment of chairs make this one of the homiest Old World cafés anywhere in the city.

Caffè Reggio
119 MacDougal St. , between 3rd and Bleecker Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/475-9557
Under $15
Greenwich Village
Cafes

In the neighborhood's oldest coffeehouse, where a huge antique espresso machine gleams in the gloom, the tiny tables are really close together, perfect for eavesdropping. One of the paintings is an original from the school of Caravaggio.

Caffe Roma
385 Broome St. , at Mulberry St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/226-8413
Under $15
Little Italy
Cafes

Manhattan's most authentic Italian coffeehouse has worn walls, marble tables, and strong, bracing, foamy cappuccino. No credit cards.

Calle Ocho
446 Columbus Ave. , between 81st and 82nd Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/873-5025
$15 to $24
Upper West Side
Latin

Taking its name from the main drag of Miami's Little Havana neighborhood, Calle Ocho cultivates a festive vibe, with bright colors, a wall mural of Cuban imagery, and a terra-cotta fireplace. Chef Alex Garcia serves a pan-Latin menu that incorporates dishes from various countries, especially his native Cuba. You can dine on Cuban-style steak frites with yuca fries, arepas with bacalao (corn fritters stuffed with salt cod), or crispy snapper with malanga (a South American tuber) mash. All of the dishes are best washed down with one of the restaurant's snappy specialty drinks, such as a refreshing mojito (rum with soda, mint, and sugar syrup) or an interesting mamey (a sweet Mexican fruit) daiquiri. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Canteen
421 Mercer St. , at Prince St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/431-7676
$15 to $24
SoHo
American

A-list celebrities and hip downtowners flock to this basement space decorated like a 1970s rec-room with a chic postmodern aesthetic. Think vast white walls, Tang-orange chairs in space-age shapes, and brown circular booths that look like modular sofas. The decor verges on the avant-garde, but the food is traditional, down-home American. Simple dishes such as macaroni and cheese, pork chops with buttermilk-smashed potatoes, and lobster and cod pan roast are meant to please jaded diners who are tired of carrying around a dictionary of food terms when they dine out. Though most who dine here dress like they can afford to pay top dollar, the prices are reasonable. AE, MC, V.

Carmine's
2450 Broadway , between 90th and 91st Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/362-2200
Over $15
Upper West Side
Italian

Savvy West Siders and theatergoers line up at these huge, busy eateries adorned with dark woodwork and old-fashioned black-and-white tiles. Those who wait are rewarded with huge portions of home-style Italian cooking, served family style. The portions are enough for three to four people (really), so this a perfect place for groups and folks who like to share. Kick off a meal with fried calamari or stuffed artichoke, then move on to the pastas, classic chicken and veal dishes, or lobster fra diavolo. You will inevitably order too much, but don't worry, it all tastes great left over. Other location: 200 W. 44th St., between Broadway and 8th Ave., PHONE: 212/221-3800. AE. No lunch.

Carnegie Deli
854 7th Ave. , between 54th and 55th Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/757-2245
$15 to $24
Midtown West
Delicatessens

Although not what it once was, this no-nonsense deli is still a favorite of out-of-towners. The portions are so huge you feel like a child in a surreal culinary fairy tale. Two giant matzoh balls come in a bowl of soup, the knishes hang off the edge of the plates, and some combination sandwiches are so tall they are held together with bamboo skewers, not toothpicks. Don't miss the cheesecake, to our palates the best (and, of course, biggest) in the city. Don't be fooled: you pay for that excessive amount of food, but you can take home what you don't eat. To drink? Try cream soda or Cel-Ray tonic. No credit cards.

Cello
53 E. 77th St. , between Madison and Park Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/517-1200
Over $32
Upper East Side
Seafood

Cello may be the only restaurant in town that could give Le Bernardin a run for its seafood money. The clubby spot has an elegant clientele and even more elegant tableware. The prix-fixe menu could best be described as haute poisson, for chef Laurent Tourondel coddles the fruits of the sea with impeccable French technique and fine, fresh ingredients. Highlights include a multicourse lobster tasting menu, baby mussels, and the sweetest diver sea scallops. Don't miss dessert, which you will probably have time to enjoy, for the service has a tendency to come on strong and then peter out toward the end. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Cendrillon Asian Grill and Marienda Bar
45 Mercer St. , between Broome and Grand Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/343-9012
$15 to $24
SoHo
Philippine

Cendrillon means Cinderella in French, so the slipper-shape bar here is "fitting." Delicate inlay designs ornament the redbrick dining room's wood tables. Don't miss the spring rolls, Asian barbecue (duck, spareribs, and chicken), black rice salad, or adobo - the national dish of the Philippines, prepared here with quail and rabbit in the traditional vinegar and garlic sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Chanterelle
2 Harrison St. , near Hudson St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/966-6960
Over $32
TriBeCa
French

Soft peach walls, luxuriously spaced tables, towering floral arrangements, and stylish servers set the stage for what is certainly the most understated of New York's fancy French restaurants. Unassuming service complements chef David Waltuck's simple creations. Although the signature seafood sausage, charred on the outside and succulent within, and the Japanese-style raw seafood are both always available, the rest of the prix-fixe menu is dictated by the season. Roger Dagorn, the restaurant's exceptional sommelier, can help find value in the discriminating, beautifully chosen wine list. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. No lunch.

Charles's Southern-Style Kitchen
2839 8th Ave. , between 151st and 152nd Sts., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/926-4313
Under $15
Harlem
Southern

Charles Gabriel serves some of the best soul food in Harlem. Fried chicken is the specialty, and if you stand by the takeout counter you can watch Charlie dip pieces of chicken into his peppery batter and fry it to a crispy golden brown in a giant cast-iron skillet. The value-packed all-you-can-eat buffet ($6.99 at lunch, $9.99 at dinner) includes all of soul food's greatest hits: barbecued ribs, oxtail, black-eyed peas, okra, macaroni and cheese, collard greens, and candied yams. And on occasion there are special treats, such as salmon cakes. AE, MC, V.

Chez Es Saada
42 E. 1st St. , between 1st and 2nd Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/777-5617
$15 to $32
East Village
Moroccan

Come with us to the Casbah, past the street-level bar, down the tile staircase sprinkled with fresh rose petals, into this brick-lined, underground den of a modern Moroccan restaurant, where beautiful men and women recline on large cushions. Although all the food isn't as tantalizing as the setting, you can still manage to eat a pretty good tagine (stew) of lamb with ginger and dates, or a buttery bisteeya (chicken wrapped in phyllo and served with a saffron and lemon butter sauce). Simpler is better. Don't focus on your plate; instead sit back in an alcove and watch the room come alive. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Chicama
35 E. 18th St. , between Broadway and Park Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/505-2233
$25 to $32
Flatiron District
Latin

Douglas Rodriguez has created a hit with Chicama, an utterly festive Latin spot in the home furnishings store ABC Carpet & Home. Much of the restaurant's wood-panel interior was imported from a restaurant in Brazil and the effect is that of a rustic hacienda. Rodriguez is the undisputed master of interpretive Latin cooking, and the menu here delivers. There's a ceviche bar, from which a wide array of excellent fish "cocktails" are served. Tender grilled octopus is skewered and served on a bed of nutty quinoa. Adobo-rubbed steak served with huge slabs of tomato and nuggets of cabrales cheese packs a deceptively subtle spiciness. Tapioca pudding, dramatically served in a coconut, is the favorite dessert. Rodriguez lists the name of every staff member, down to the dishwashers, on the menu, and the servers seem to take their role seriously; for such a trendy spot, service is surprisingly caring. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Cho Dang Gol
55 W. 35th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/695-8222
Under $24
Midtown West
Korean

A few blocks away from the main drag of Little Korea, this restaurant specializes in tofu (doo-boo in Korean). Myriad varieties of bean curd are made on the premises and then incorporated into a vast array of traditional Korean dishes of varying heat and spice. Anyone who thinks of tofu as a bland, jiggling substance should try doo-boo dong-ka-rang-deng, puffy rounds of tofu filled with shredded vegetables and beef, or cho-dan-gol jung-sik, a three-part dish of tofu dregs, pork stew, and rice. The only drawback is that the staff, who are lovely and eager to please, don't speak enough English to be of much help. AE, DC, MC, V.

Churrascaria Plataforma
316 W. 49th St. , between 8th and 9th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/245-0505
Over $25
Midtown West
Brazilian

This sprawling, boisterous shrine to meat, with it's generous all-you-can-eat prix-fixe menu, is best experienced with a group of hungry friends. Order a full pitcher of caipirinhas (a cocktail of sugarcane liquor and lime), and head for the center of the room, where a vast salad bar beckons with vegetables (including fresh hearts of palm), meats, and cheeses, plus hot tureens of feijoada (the Brazilian national dish of beans, pork, greens, and manioc, or cassava). But exercise restraint - the real show begins with the parade of lamb, beef, chicken, ham, sausage, and innards, brought to the table on skewers. The only relief is to turn over your chip, marked green on one side (More!), red on the other (Stop!). Side dishes include plantains, french fries, rice, mashed potatoes, manioc, and a tangy vinegar sauce. The heavy, gooey desserts, such as the coconut flan, are perfect with the strong Brazilian coffee. AE, DC, MC, V.

City Bakery
3 W. 18th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/366-1414
Under $15
Flatiron District
Cafes

This self-service bakery-restaurant has the urban aesthetic to match its name. Owner Maury Rubin has a strong sense of humor and design, and both show in his creative window displays and his elegant tarts. The baked goods - giant cookies, chocolate croissants, tender scones - are rich with creamy butter. But one of the major draws here is the salad bar, a large selection of impeccably fresh food - including whole sides of baked salmon, sautéed vegetables, pasta salads, and several Asian-flavored dishes - that puts most others to shame. Much of the produce comes from the nearby farmers' market, and the quality shows in the clean flavors and high prices. In winter, the bakery hosts a hot chocolate festival; in summer it's lemonade time. At dinner there is table service and expanded counter service; small dishes are available upstairs at the bar. Closed Sun. No dinner.

City Eatery
316 Bowery , at Bleecker St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/253-8644
$15 to $24
East Village
Italian

Though the somewhat cold brasserie decor, complete with red banquettes, of this restaurant's previous incarnation remains intact, the menu has been transformed from run-of-the-mill French to inventive Italian by chef Scott Conant, who formerly plied his trade at San Domenico. Conant cooks Italian staples with confidence, evidenced by the impossibly small and tender gnocchi that are served with nothing more than a sweet tomato sauce and a grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Polenta, heady with the scent of truffle oil, is a rich, satisfying dish. Conant gets creative with entrées such as olive oil-poached tuna and a selection of ever-changing homemade pastas. MC, V. No lunch.

City Hall
131 Duane St. , between Church St. and W. Broadway, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/227-7777
Over $25
TriBeCa
American

Chef/owner Henry Meer has created a tasteful New York-theme restaurant, complete with back-lit black-and-white photographs of old New York and an impressive raw seafood bar. The menu tempts with contemporary interpretations of classic urban fare, such as she-crab soup, Delmonico steak, broiled salmon, and grilled calves' liver. You can't help but laugh at the iceberg lettuce-wedge salad served with Russian dressing (which happens to be delicious). Even the warm onion-and-poppy seed rolls are transporting. An Apple Manhattan (bourbon with apple liqueur and chunks of fresh apple) will take the chill off a cold city night. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Coffee Pot
350 W. 49th St. , at 9th Ave., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/265-3566
Under $15
Midtown West
Cafes

Overstuffed sofas and chairs, mirrors, brass chandeliers, good deals on the coffee of the day, and pleasant service make this one of the theater district's most pleasant options.

Colbeh
43 W. 39th St. , between 5th and 6th Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/354-8181
$15 to $24
Midtown West
Middle Eastern

A Persian friend once described the food at Colbeh as the best she'd had since she left her mother's house. Let's hope her home didn't have the same pink neon lighting or the suburban strip-mall atmosphere of this place. Regardless, the food is simple and very good. Traditional Middle Eastern salads are skillfully prepared and reasonably priced. Some unusual offerings include meatballs of ground lamb and a spicy eggplant and tomato salad. Among entrées, you can choose from a variety of kebabs (turkey, chicken, or lamb), each served on a generous bed of rice. AE, MC, V.

Cucina
256 5th Ave. , between Carroll St. and Garfield Pl., Park Slope, New York, NY, USA
Phone: 718/230-0711
Under $32
Brooklyn
Italian

One of the most serious restaurants in Park Slope is run by chef-owner Michael Ayoub. The style is Italian, and most meals commence with a selection of antipasti from the giant buffet at the back of the main dining room. Pastas are available in appetizer- and entrée-size portions. Depending on the season you might find lobster and pumpkin ravioli or pappardelle (wide ribbons) with duck and wild mushrooms among the selections. Of the entrées, you should consider the simple breaded veal cutlet alla milanese, the generous osso buco, or the grilled fillet mignon of pork, served with crisp mushroom risotto and a dried fruit and porcini sauce. Service can be slow at times and the room can be noisy, but both add to the neighborhood feel of the restaurant. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Cupcake Café
522 9th Ave. , at 39th St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/465-1530
Under $15
Midtown West
Cafes

Intensely buttery, magnificently decorated cakes and cupcakes, as well as doughnuts, coffee cake, and hearty soup are worth the trek to this funky spot on the western flank of the Port Authority Bus Terminal (a somewhat dicey area).

Daniel
60 E. 65th St. , between Madison and Park Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/288-0033
Over $32
Upper East Side
French

In this grand space, historic elements of the old Mayfair Hotel ballroom mix with modern accents to create a bi-level dining room and lounge area with a rich, timeless feel. The prix-fixe menu is contemporary French to the nth degree - nobody else prepares such contemporary dishes as Jerusalem artichoke soup with crispy bacon or chestnut-crusted venison with caramelized pear, and nobody else creates such modern classics as sea bass in a potato crust or scallops in black tie (dressed with truffles), with more confidence. The service and wine list are on a par with the food. For a more casual evening you can reserve a table in the lounge. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, DC, MC, V.

Danube
30 Hudson St. , at Duane St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/791-3771
Over $32
TriBeCa
Austrian

This jewel box of a restaurant evokes turn-of-the-20th-century Vienna. The elegant bar is alight with shimmering mosaic swirls, and the diminutive dining room is lined with sparkling Klimt reproductions. To sample the breadth of David Bouley's nouveau Austrian cuisine, try the multicourse dégustation. A signature wine soup with smoked trout crêpes is delicious, as are the braised beef cheeks, which might be served with Zweigelt wine sauce, spaetzle, and ramps. The wine list is notable for hard-to-find Austrian and German labels. The food rises to the heights of the Austrian Alps, but the service still has some climbing to do before it reaches the summit. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Dean & DeLuca
75 University Pl. , at 11th St., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/473-1908
Under $15
Greenwich Village
Cafes

Known for gourmet goodies, this local chain is a spin-off of the SoHo Dean & DeLuca (560 Broadway, at Prince St., PHONE: 212/226-6800) market, which also has a coffee bar and prepared foods. Think fast as the line snakes past the gingerbread, cakes, cookies, sandwiches, and salads. Other locations: 1 Rockefeller Plaza, at 49th St., PHONE: 212/664-1363; Paramount Hotel, 235 W. 46th St., between Broadway and 8th Ave., PHONE: 212/869-6890.

Destinée
134 E. 61st St. , between Lexington and Park Aves., New York, NY, USA
Phone: 212/888-1220
Over $32
Upper East Side
French

When his family's Michelin two-star restaurant burned down in Alsace, killing his father and destroying the business, Jean-Yves Schillinger left France behind. He set off for America, a new life and a new restaurant his goal. He humbly named the restaurant Destinée, French for destiny, and the future has proven to be good. The intimate, almost formal dining room provides a comfortable environment in which to enjoy the authentic French cuisine on Schillinger's menu. Seasonal terrines, roasts, and braises are superb. Fish is sweet