Acme Oyster and Seafood Restaurant
724 Iberville St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/522-5973
Under $16
French Quarter
Seafood

A rough-edge classic in every way, this no-nonsense eatery at the entrance to the French Quarter is a prime source of cool and salty raw oysters on the half shell; great shrimp, oyster, and roast-beef po'boys; and state-of-the-art red beans and rice. Table service, once confined to the main dining room out front, is now provided in the rear room as well. Expect rather lengthy lines at the marble-top oyster bar. Crowds lighten in the late afternoon. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V.

Angelo Brocato's
214 N. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/488-1465
Under $16
Mid-City
Cafes

Traditional Sicilian fruit sherbets, ice creams, pastries, and candies are the attractions of this quaint little sweetshop that harks back to the time when the French Quarter was peopled mostly by Italian immigrants. The shop has since moved to the Mid-City area, but the cannoli and the lemon and strawberry ices haven't lost their status as local favorites. It closes at 10 PM. No credit cards.

Arnaud's
813 Bienville St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-5433
Over $17
French Quarter
Creole

The main dining room's outside wall of ornate etched glass reflects light from the charming old chandeliers while the late founder, Arnaud Cazenave, gazes from an oil portrait near the high ceiling. When the main room fills up, the overflow spills into a labyrinth of plush banquet rooms and bars. The big, ambitious menu includes classic dishes as well as newer creations. Always reliable are cold shrimp Arnaud, in a superb rémoulade, and creamy oyster stew, as well as the fish in crawfish sauce, beef Wellington, and fine crème brûlée. Expect hurried service on crowded nights, but rely on the reservations desk to perform efficiently. A jacket is required in the main dining room. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Basil Leaf
1438 S. Carrollton Ave. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/862-9001
$9 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Thai

Familiar Thai standbys - spring rolls, pad thai, chicken and coconut soup, and the like - get a new lease on life in the kitchen of owner-chef Siam Titiparwat. These expertly done traditional dishes are backed up by a slew of thoroughly original creations in the crisp, simple dining room, enlivened with several brilliantly colored paintings. Gently flavored green and red Thai curries, especially those with chicken or shrimp, are prepared with the instinctual talent of a Thai native, as are the firm yet tender dumplings filled with bits of scallop. At dessert time, try such offbeat sweets as the delicious Thai sticky rice with mango. Service is brisk and friendly. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun., no lunch Sat.-Mon.

Bayona
430 Dauphine St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-4455
$9 to $25
French Quarter
Contemporary

"New World" is the label chef Susan Spicer applies to her cooking style, which results in such creations as turnovers filled with spicy crawfish tails; a bisque of corn, leeks, and chicken; or fresh salmon fillet in white-wine sauce with sauerkraut. These and other imaginative dishes are served in an early 19th-century Creole cottage on a quiet French Quarter street. The chef supervised the renovation of the handsome building, now fairly glowing with flower arrangements, elegant photographs, and, in one small dining room, trompe l'oeil murals suggesting Mediterranean landscapes. Larger groups are usually seated in the attic space, which also serves as a wine room. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Begué's
Royal Sonesta Hotel, 300 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/553-2278
Over $17
French Quarter
Continental

Warmth and color soften the fanciness of the Royal Sonesta Hotel's prestigious restaurant. Wide arched windows have views of a courtyard teeming with greenery and flowers, and the chairs are as body-hugging as you'll find. The menu is a blend of modern French sophistication and Creole-inspired flavors: baked oysters arrive on the half shell under a sauce made with leeks and Parmesan; the tomato-and-tasso bisque is the soul of silky goodness; salmon shows up nestled inside a feathery phyllo crust. Service is a pleasing combination of informality and correctness. The Friday seafood buffet and Sunday jazz brunch buffet are especially good times to sample the comforts and dishes here. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Bella Luna
French Market, near Decatur and Dumaine Sts., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/529-1583
$17 to $25
French Quarter
Contemporary

If luxurious surroundings and a knockout view of the Mississippi River are high on your list of priorities, this elegant restaurant in the French Market complex should fill the bill. Handsome French-style windows line one wall in the plush main dining room, offering views of the riverbank and the ships and excursion boats gliding by. The second dining space is enclosed on three sides by even more glass, exposing the river on one side, the city skyline straight on, and French Quarter rooftops on the other side. The kitchen takes an eclectic approach, although the strongest accent is Italian. Good bets are the pastas, especially penne with roasted eggplant, Gorgonzola, peppers, and fried herbs in Fontina sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Bistro at Maison de Ville
733 Toulouse St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/528-9206
$17 to $25
French Quarter
Contemporary

Small-scale chic has been the cachet of this sleek and intimate spot, a few steps from raucous Bourbon Street. Only inches separate the tables, with those along the full-length banquette close enough to become, in effect, a table for 20. But lustrous mahogany and soft light from elegant wall lamps work their magic, along with Impressionistic oils reflected by the mirrors on the opposing wall. From the tiny kitchen come flavorful creations reflecting a modern approach to Creole and American cooking - barbecue shrimp with New Orleans rice cakes, cleverly composed salads, saffron-sage broth with quail ravioli, and grilled salmon with a pecan-flavored wild rice. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Bon Ton Café
401 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/524-3386
$9 to $25
Central Business District (CBD)
Cajun

The Bon Ton's opening in 1953 marked the first appearance of a significant Cajun restaurant in New Orleans. Its crawfish dishes, gumbo, jambalaya, and oyster omelet have retained their strong following in the decades since. The bustle in the excellently maintained dining room reaches a peak at lunchtime on weekdays, when businesspeople from nearby offices come in droves for the baked eggplant with shrimp, fried catfish, turtle soup, and a warm, sugary bread pudding. The veteran waitresses are knowledgeable and fleet-footed. AE, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Brennan's
417 Royal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-9711
Over $25
French Quarter
Creole

Lavish breakfasts of elaborate poached egg dishes are what first put Brennan's on the map more than 40 years ago. They're still a big draw, although the two floors of luxuriously appointed dining rooms, in a gorgeous 19th-century building, often fill up just as quickly at dinner. The best seats include views of the lush, tropical courtyard and fountain, which are illuminated at night. Eye-opening cocktails flow every morning, followed by tasty poached eggs sandwiched between such things as hollandaise, creamed spinach, artichoke bottoms, Canadian bacon, and fried fish. Headliners at lunch or dinner include blue-ribbon versions of oysters Rockefeller and seafood gumbo, sautéed fish blanketed in crabmeat, good veal and beef dishes, and bananas Foster, a dessert that was created here. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Brick Oven Café
2805 Williams Blvd., Kenner, LA, USA
Phone: 504/466-2097
$9 to $25
New Orleans
Italian

A few minutes from the airport is this crowded, relaxed restaurant, which offers what may be the best home-style Italian cooking in the area. Putting meat in minestrone may be flouting tradition, but this minestrone is fabulous. So are the succulent roasted chicken, spaghetti carbonara, veal piccata, and traditional desserts. You may have to wait a half hour or more for a table at peak dinner hours and elbow room is at a premium, but the inconveniences are worth it for food as good as this. The three dining rooms are festooned with all sorts of foodstuffs, tins, jars, and culinary artifacts. The booths are the most desirable seats. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Brigtsen's
723 Dante St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/861-7610
$17 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Creole

Chef Frank Brigsten's fusion of Creole refinement and Acadian earthiness reflects his years as a protégé of Paul Prudhomme. The owner-chef's ever-changing menus add up to some of the best southern Louisiana cooking you'll find anywhere. Everything is fresh and filled with the deep and complex tastes that characterize Creole-Cajun food. The cream-of-oysters-Rockefeller soup is a revelation. Rabbit and chicken dishes, usually presented in rich sauces and gravies, are full of robust flavor. The roux-based gumbos are thick and intense, and the fresh banana ice cream is worth every calorie. Fans of blackened food couldn't do better than with this prime rib, in a spicy charred coating. Trompe-l'oeil murals add whimsy to the intimate spaces of a turn-of-the-20th-century frame cottage. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Broussard's
819 Conti St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/581-3866
Over $17
French Quarter
Creole

No French Quarter restaurant surpasses Broussard's for old-fashioned spectacle. What was once a dowdy Creole bistro is now a soft-edged, glittery mix of elaborate wall coverings, chandeliers, porcelain, and polished woods, with a manicured courtyard to boot. If the menu blazes no trails, it contains respectable renditions of the fancier Creole standbys further upgraded with Continental touches. A star among the many fine appetizers is a trio of treats on one plate: crabmeat in a cool spicy sauce, a shrimp rémoulade (sauce with mayonnaise, capers, gherkins, mustard, and anchovies), and the house-cured salmon. Fine entrées include shrimp in sherry butter and a veal chop with two sauces, a beurre blanc and a port demi-glace (rich brown sauce). The crepes Marie Laveau are drenched in peach liqueur and cognac. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Café du Monde
French Market, Decatur and St. Ann Sts., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-4544
Under $9
French Quarter
Cafes

For most visitors, no trip to New Orleans would be complete without a cup of chicory-laced café au lait and a few sugar-dusted beignets in this venerable Creole institution. The dozens of tables, inside or out in the open air, are jammed at almost any hour with locals and tourists feasting on the views of Jackson Square and the hubbub on Decatur Street. The magical time to go is just before dawn, when the bustle subsides and you can almost hear the birds in the crepe myrtles across the way. Satellite locations in four malls (the New Orleans Centre and Riverwalk Marketplace in the CBD, Lakeside Shopping Center in Metairie, and Esplanade Mall in Kenner) are convenient but lack the character of the original. No credit cards.

Café Maspero
601 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-6250
Under $16
French Quarter
Cafes

A half-hour wait in line - usually outside the door - is the norm for a sample of Café Maspero's two-fisted hot and cold sandwiches. The pastrami and corned beef are on the greasy side, and the half-pound hamburger (with cheese or chili or both) is long on bulk and short on taste. But low prices and big portions keep 'em coming. Arched doors and windows give the vast brick dining room a little character. Service is perfunctory. No credit cards.

Camellia Grill
626 S. Carrollton Ave. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/866-9573
Under $16
Garden District/Uptown
American

Every diner should be as classy as Camellia Grill, a one-of-a-kind eatery that deserves its following. Locals vie until the early morning hours for one of the 29 stools at the gleaming counter, each place supplied with a large, fresh linen napkin. The hamburger - four ounces of excellent beef on a fresh bun with any number of embellishments - is one of the best in town. Other blue-ribbon dishes are the chili, the fruit and meringue pies, and the garnished omelets. Everything is made on the premises and served by bow-tied, white-waistcoated waiters with the fastest feet in the business. No credit cards.

Casamento's
4330 Magazine St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/895-9761
Under $16
Garden District/Uptown
Seafood

Encased in gleaming white ceramic tiles, Casamento's has been a haven for Uptown seafood lovers since 1918. Family members still staff the long, marble raw-oyster bar up front and the immaculate kitchen out back. Between them is a small dining room with a similarly diminutive menu. The specialties are oysters lightly poached in seasoned milk, and fried shrimp, trout, and oysters, impeccably fresh and greaseless. They're served with fried potatoes and a good selection of domestic beers. Even the houseplants have a just-polished look. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Mon. and early June-late Aug.

Central Grocery
923 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-1620
Under $16
French Quarter
Cafes

This old-fashioned Italian grocery store in the French Quarter produces authentic muffulettas, one of the greatest gastronomic gifts of the city's Italian immigrants. They're made by filling soft, round loaves of seeded bread with ham, salami, mozzarella, and a salad of marinated chopped green olives. Each sandwich, about 10 inches in diameter, is sold in quarters and halves. You can eat your muffuletta at a counter, but some prefer to take theirs out to a bench on Jackson Square or the Moon Walk along the Mississippi riverfront, both just blocks away. The grocery closes at 5:30 PM. No credit cards.

Charley G's Seafood Grill
Heritage Plaza Bldg., 2nd level, 111 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, LA, USA
Phone: 504/837-6408
$9 to $25
Metairie
Creole

One of the few restaurants in the New Orleans suburbs that do justice to contemporary southern Louisiana cooking, Charley G's has been a runaway success since its opening in 1992. One reason is the smart, uncluttered look of the split-level dining spaces, simultaneously elegant and festive. Another is the menu. The crab cakes and chicken-and-sausage gumbo would impress the pickiest bayou gastronome. Game dishes, especially duck and quail, are superb, as are the grilled fish and belt-busting desserts. The mostly California wine list is both impressive in range and beautifully organized. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.

China Blossom
1801 Stumpf Blvd. , at Wright Ave., in the Stumpf Blvd. Shopping Center, Gretna, LA, USA
Phone: 504/361-4598
$9 to $25
Gretna
Chinese

The regional Chinese cooking is exemplary in this tidy restaurant, across the Mississippi River from the center of town but quickly accessible via the river bridge. Uncompromising freshness and imagination mark the ingredients, seasonings, and sauces, whether the style is Cantonese, Szechuan, or elegant Hong Kong. These qualities are found not only in a whole, fried trout and crawfish in spicy lobster sauce but also in such commonplace dishes as egg rolls, lemon chicken, moo shu pork, and wonton soup. A few ornamental objects of lacquer, gilt, and mother-of-pearl adorn the white-and-rust walls of the several dining rooms, and service is by a crisply efficient, affable staff. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Christian's
3835 Iberville St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/482-4924
Over $17
Mid-City
Creole

A small church in a residential neighborhood has been turned into a front-rank purveyor of Creole cuisine with French flourishes. On crowded banquettes under stained-glass windows, regulars devour crunchy, smoked soft-shell crab laced with butter; a Creole bouillabaisse of local fish and shellfish; and Gulf fish sautéed with fresh oysters and drenched in brown wine sauce. The superb recipe for skewered fried oysters with bacon comes from Galatoire's, and the two restaurants, founded by members of the same family, share other dishes as well. A reservation doesn't guarantee immediate seating, the bar is tiny, and service can be rushed. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon. and Sat.

Clancy's
6100 Annunciation St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/895-1111
$9 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Creole

The easy, sophisticated charm and consistently classy menu have made this bistro a favorite with professional and business types from nearby neighborhoods. Most of the dishes are imaginative treatments of New Orleans favorites. Some specialties, like the fresh sautéed fish in cream sauce flavored with crawfish stock and herbs, are exceptional. Other signs of an inventive chef are the expertly fried oysters matched with warm Brie; the grilled chicken breast in lime butter; and a peppermint ice cream pie. Simpler dishes such as filet mignon in Madeira sauce benefit from careful, knowledgeable preparation. The decor is neutral, with gray walls and a few ceiling fans above bentwood chairs and white linen cloths. The small bar is usually filled with regulars who know each other. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon. or Sat.

Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Ave. , Garden District, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/899-8221
Over $17
Garden District/Uptown
Creole

No restaurant captures New Orleans's gastronomic heritage and celebratory spirit as well as this one in a stately Garden District mansion. The upstairs Garden Room's glass walls have marvelous views of the giant oak trees on the patio below, and the other rooms promote conviviality with their bright pastels or delicate wall paintings. Chef Jamie Shannon's classics include poached oysters in a seasoned cream sauce with Oregon caviar; crab cakes in an oyster sauce; and sautéed trout coated with crunchy pecans. Among the addictive desserts are the bread pudding soufflé and chocolate Sheba, a wonderful Bavarian cream. Several hundred people might dine at Commander's on a given day, but its size rarely interferes with the quality of the food or service. The special weekend brunch menus are less ambitious but also less costly. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Croissant d'Or
617 Ursulines St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/524-4663
Under $9
French Quarter
Cafes

Locals compete with visitors for a table in this colorful, pristine pastry shop, which serves excellent and authentic French croissants, pies, tarts, and custards, as well as an imaginative selection of soups, salads, and sandwiches. Wash them down with real French coffee, cappuccino, or espresso. In good weather, the cheerful courtyard, with its quietly gurgling fountain, is the place to sit. A filling lunch can be had for less than $10. Hours are 7 AM to 5 PM daily. MC, V.

Cuvée
322 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/587-9001
Over $17
Central Business District (CBD)
Continental

With a name that refers to a blend of wines and a decidedly French personality, this restaurant has more to do with France's Champagne region than southern Louisiana. But although chef Richard Starr's dishes rest on a firm French foundation, their flavors are often distinctively New Orleans. A classic, reddish Creole rémoulade sauce graces extra-thin slices of flash-fried mirliton squash (Mexico's chayote) and equally thin crescents of cool, spicy shrimp; a sugar-cane smoked duck breast joins a risotto with Roquefort and pecans; and a seasoned workaday vegetable soup becomes an exotically flavored gumbo. All are served in a soaring space defined by exposed brick, gilt-framed paintings in several styles, and jeroboam- and magnum-size champagne bottles suspended from the ceiling. Wine service is exceptional, thanks to maître d' and cellarmaster Sebastien Glacon's polish and expertise. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Dante's Kitchen
736 Dante St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/861-3121
$9 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Contemporary

Chef Emmanuel Loubier, a nine-year veteran of Commander's Palace, prepares cuisine for those with a sense of adventure. His more innovative creations include fish wrapped in falafel, an oversize duck-confit-potato-sage pancake brushed with apple butter, and smoked catfish with a ladling of crème fraîche and the dark roe from a local bony fish known as choupique. A chilled salad of poached salmon in a caper-dill dressing can be both satisfying and therapeutic on a hot New Orleans evening. Desserts, like chunky apple cobbler, are homey and hearty. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Delmonico
1300 St. Charles Ave. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-4937
Over $17
Garden District/Uptown
Creole

Delmonico is a large, extravagantly appointed restaurant with the most ambitious revamping of classic Creole dishes in town. The many high-ceiling dining spaces are swathed in upholstered walls and super-thick window fabrics. Back in the kitchen, the restaurant is showing signs of emerging from the disappointments of its early years, thanks to the repair work of David McCelvey and Neal Swidler, two young chefs high on the Emeril's corporate ladder. Oysters baked on the half shell in various sauces remain a reliable option. New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp, crawfish in puff pastry, and sautéed fish meunière have taken on added polish. Delmonico seems to be on the road back, especially since menu prices have come down to more sensible levels. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Dick and Jenny's
4501 Tchoupitoulas St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/894-9880
$9 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Creole

Stints at Commander's Palace, Gautreau's, and Upperline have given chef Richard Benz a talent for coming up with innovative dishes that meld logically with familiar combinations of typical New Orleans ingredients. At his and wife Jenny's breezily casual restaurant he produces food that should satisfy both local purists and others looking for new wrinkles. Fried oysters are superfresh and perfectly cooked. The meaty, judiciously seasoned crab cakes arrive atop fried green tomato slices and a fiery red-pepper sauce. Beef tournedos is lavished with seared foie gras and a reduction of port wine and balsamic vinegar. Helping to enliven the dining room and bar, fashioned from a turn-of-the-20th-century frame cottage, are large, colorful canvases done by the chef himself. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse
716 Iberville St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/522-2467
Over $17
French Quarter
Steak

"Straightforward steaks with a New Orleans touch" is the axiom at this luxurious, 350-seat addition to the city's list of steaks-and-chops specialists, the creation of a younger member of the Brennan family restaurateurs. In lavish spaces lined with dark-cherry walls and a drugstore-tile floor, diners dig into classic cuts of top-quality beef, veal, and lamb. The standard beefsteak treatment is a light seasoning and a brush of butter. Other options are a garlic rub, steak more deeply charred, or a crust of either black peppercorns or mushroom duxelle, along with five buttery sauces. The menu doesn't lack for typical New Orleans seafood and desserts, among them a fine shrimp rémoulade and bread pudding. The decor and amenities proclaim clubbiness. AE, DC, MC, V.

Emeril's
800 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/528-9393
Over $17
Warehouse District
Creole

Although celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse makes rare appearances at his original namesake restaurant, you may spot a star or two from the sports and entertainment worlds in these always-jammed dining spaces. A striking new ceiling in an oversize basket-weave pattern has turned the once-clattery dining rooms into models of balanced sound. In a far corner, the food bar is framed by a dramatic collection of glass-encased spices, legumes, and the like, exposing one of America's most luxurious restaurant kitchens. Emeril's has an ambitious menu that gives equal emphasis to Creole and modern American cooking. On the plate, this translates as oysters baked on the half shell with a spicy butter sauce and a sour-mango slaw or a confit of pulled duck with berries, Stilton, and a vanilla-shallot vinaigrette. Service is meticulously organized, and the wine list's range should pop the eye of the most persnickety imbiber. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Fifty-Six Degrees
Wyndham Hotel Whitney, 610 Poydras St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/212-5656
Over $17
Central Business District (CBD)
Contemporary

This elegant yet understated restaurant occupies part of what used to be a vast old bank lobby. Ornate, Greek Revival architecture sets the scene, along with ancient brass fixtures from the space's former banking days. Proprietor-chef Minh Bui, who loves to weave different culinary cultures into his creations, augments traditional New Orleans cooking with Asian touches. Two sausages, one Chinese and the other a Louisiana andouille, join duck and shrimp atop spinach pasta studded with bits of sweet pepper. A sweet corn cake nestles alongside fragile and luscious tempura shrimp, both drizzled in a sweet-chile and soy glaze. For dessert, the almond-brittle and lemon-grass parfait is guaranteed to disappear completely from every plate. Service is precise and informed. The wine cellar, with more than 200 choices, doesn't disappoint. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Figaro's Pizzeria
7900 Maple St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/866-0100
$9 to $16
Garden District/Uptown
Pizza

Even in Creole-Cajun country, pizza holds considerable sway. Doubters can stop in at Figaro's, the favorite Uptown spot for New Orleanians who can't shake the craving for either American- or Italian-style pizza. In the small interior dining room, or at a table in the connecting tented space, the faithful come not only for the familiar species but also for such toppings as crawfish étouffée with wild mushrooms and ginger or yellowfin tuna with a salsa of caramelized onions, roasted sweet peppers, and mangoes. The menu also lists a number of other dishes, such as veal with linguine, roasted duck or chicken, and a corn-and-crab soup spiked with bourbon. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V.

Fiorella's Café
45 French Market Pl. (another entrance on Chartres St.), New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/528-9566
Under $16
French Quarter
Cafes

Scouring the booths at the French Quarter's flea market can sharpen any appetite. Just a few steps away from the hubbub is this very casual and friendly eatery specializing in classic po'boys and New Orleans-style plate lunches. Red beans and rice show up on Monday, meat loaf takes the spotlight on Tuesday, and Thursday is the day for butter beans; hearty breakfasts are an everyday feature. All deliver the rib-sticking goodness of a New Orleans home kitchen. The spaces are tight and rather dark, but that doesn't take the shine off the menu. Prices are easy to swallow, too. The café closes at 5 PM. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Franky & Johnny's
321 Arabella St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/899-9146
Under $16
Garden District/Uptown
Seafood

Seekers of the quintessential New Orleans neighborhood restaurant need look no further. Team pennants, posters, and football jerseys vie for space on the paneled walls of the low-ceiling bar and dining room while a jukebox blares beneath them. From the kitchen's steaming cauldrons come freshly boiled shrimp, crabs, and crawfish, piled high and ready to be washed down with ice-cold beer. The day's po'boy roster might include fried crawfish tails or oysters, meatballs in tomato sauce, or roast beef with gravy. Table service is rudimentary. Reservations not accepted. D, MC, V.

French Table
3216 W. Esplanade Ave., , Metairie, LA, USA
Phone: 504/833-8108
$9 to $25
Metairie
French

Longtime fans of Crozier's, the French Table's predecessor, can still find much of departed chef Gerard Crozier's classic repertoire in these rather frilly quarters inside a suburban strip shopping center. Still ruling the roost are such familiar dishes as escargots bourguignonne, a Gruyère-laden onion soup, and coq au vin. Young chef Robert Krol (who worked under Crozier for more than a decade), however, has reinvigorated the menu with a few emerging classics of his own. A light but pungent sauce with Asian overtones dresses seared scallops; a peppercorn crust and a reduced sauce with red wine adorn the filet mignon; and chocolate mousse shows up alongside a flourless chocolate cake and chocolate ice cream. But change continues to come slowly to this establishment, whose cooking matches the cautious home-like decor, created around French-provincial cabinets and fabrics, and the low-key efficiency of the management and staff. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Gabrielle
3201 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/948-6233
$17 to $25
Mid-City
Creole

Bright and energetic and about five minutes by taxi from the French Quarter, Gabrielle is a hit, thanks to chef Greg Sonnier's marvelous interpretations of earthy, spicy southern Louisiana dishes. Seating has been expanded with a small add-on dining room that has its own homey atmosphere, complete with lace curtains and framed still-life prints. Regulars come for the spicy rabbit and veal sausages, buttery oysters gratinéed with artichoke and Parmesan, a slew of excellent gumbos and étouffées, and Mary Sonnier's fresh-fruit cobblers and shortcakes. Servings are generous and sauces are rich, so you may want to skip lunch before dining here. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Galatoire's
209 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-2021
Over $9
French Quarter
Creole

Galatoire's has always epitomized the old-style French-Creole bistro, with a lengthy menu filled with sauces that can be humdrum in lesser restaurants. Many of the recipes date from 1905. Fried oysters and bacon en brochette are worth every calorie, and the brick-red rémoulade sauce sets the standard by which others should be measured. Others on the long list of winners include a Creole bouillabaisse, meaty veal or spring lamb chops in béarnaise sauce, and seafood-stuffed eggplant. The setting downstairs is a single, narrow dining room lit with glistening brass chandeliers; the bentwood chairs at the white-cloth tables add to the timeless atmosphere. However, the din of the restaurant's regulars often fills the downstairs room, inhibiting conversation at quieter tables. Reservations are accepted for the second-floor dining room; they are also taken for downstairs during periods such as midsummer, when business is slower. Jacket required. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Gamay
Bienville House Hotel, 320 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/299-8800
Over $17
French Quarter
Creole

Don't be fooled by the soft pastels and dainty touches in the modest-size dining room: much of the food is as boldly seasoned and as lavishly dished out as any other in town, thanks to owner-chef Greg Sonnier's celebrated southern Louisiana style. You can start with something as simple as an avocado soup with a dash of cream and a fillip of honeydew or as challenging as a super-rich barbecue shrimp pie. Slow-roasted duck (also served at Gamay's sister restaurant, Gabrielle Mid-City) is lean and luscious. Shrimp, crab, and oysters often enrich the sauces on the expertly cooked fish. Desserts, especially the strawberry and blueberry shortcakes, are a dream. The wine list is short but choice, and service is friendly and attentive. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.-Thurs.

Gautreau's
1728 Soniat St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/899-7397
$17 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Contemporary

Modest in size but ambitious in its cooking, this haven of sophistication is half hidden in a quiet, leafy residential neighborhood. Don't look for a sign outside; there is none. The ever-changing menu usually includes fine crab cakes with an herbal tartar sauce, duck confit with truffle oil and dried Mission figs, veal T-bone with a marsala-thyme butter, and filet mignon in robust sauces. For dessert, try the superb crème brûlée or the caramelized banana split. The 40-seat downstairs dining room, once a neighborhood drugstore, is encased in lustrous oxblood enamel. Along one wall extends the old pharmacy's original polished wood cabinets, now filled with liquors and glassware. The second-floor dining room is less noisy. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Gerard's Downtown
500 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/592-0200
Over $17
Central Business District (CBD)
Contemporary

The proprietor-chef at this smartly turned out and very impressive newcomer is Gerard Maras, an alumnus of Commander's Palace and Mr. B's Bistro, who puts his own impeccably fresh and elegantly flavored spin on the menu. Paper-thin, freshly made ravioli with bits of lobster float in a luscious saffron broth with leeks. Lumps of backfin crabmeat join asparagus in a textbook-perfect risotto. The herb-crusted lamb chop's ideal companion is a moist cake of "satin" potatoes, baked and layered with cream and Camembert. Mouthwatering desserts include a dreamy chocolate "soup" submerging a thick disk of dark-chocolate cake. Warmth and understatement are among the dining room's assets, reflected in the earthy olive hue of the walls and the lustrous red mahogany of the classically simple bar. The glass walls of the corner location permit soothing views of Lafayette Square's oak trees, the stately columns of Gallier Hall, and the passing streetcars on the St. Charles line. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Grill Room
Windsor Court Hotel, 2nd level, 300 Gravier St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/522-1992
Over $25
Central Business District (CBD)
Contemporary

The British furnishings and paintings span several centuries in these dazzling dining spaces, with ingeniously arranged body-hugging chairs and banquettes and large academic canvases depicting aspects of upper-class England. The breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus change frequently and are filled with appropriately exotic and sumptuous ingredients, often flown in from Europe and the Orient. In recent years the results haven't always merited the hefty price tags. New management may flatten the kinks. In the interim, one can bask in the most luxurious dining space in New Orleans. Breakfast, with its blend of the familiar (several treatments of poached eggs with meat or seafood in rich sauces) and the unusual (European cereals and tropical juices), is still an event. The wine cellar, with its sterling collection of vintage Bordeaux reds, remains awesome. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Gumbo Shop
630 St. Peter St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-2486
Under $16
French Quarter
Creole

Even with a thoroughly modern glass door at the rear entrance, this place evokes a sense of old New Orleans almost as much as does the ancient Cabildo across St. Peter Street. The menu amounts to a roster of relics: jambalaya, shrimp Creole and rémoulade, red beans, bread pudding, and seafood and chicken-and-sausage gumbos heavily flavored with tradition. None titillates a trend-seeking palate. The patina on the ancient painting covering one wall seems to deepen by the week, and the red-check tablecloths and bentwood chairs are taking on the aspect of museum pieces. But in all probability that is what accounts for the long lines that form here every day and night. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Herbsaint
701 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/524-4114
$9 to $25
Central Business District (CBD)
Contemporary

Few restaurants in New Orleans can match this newcomer to the Central Business District for its combination of upscale food and downscale prices. Owner-chef Donald Link turns out food that sparkles with creativity, robust flavors, and top-grade ingredients. "Small plates" and side dishes such as charcuterie, crudités, a knock-'em-dead shrimp bisque, gumbos, and salads are economical mainstays. More substantial appetites are courted with such main courses as pork tenderloin, beef short ribs, rib-eye steak, and salmon in a mustard-seed crust - all priced at less than $20, and all delectable and fresh. For dessert, go for the chocolate beignets, filled with molten dark chocolate, or the semolina cake with saffron, sauced with milky caramel. The plates provide most of the color in these rather somber, greenish-walled spaces. Wines are carefully chosen, and service is a pleasant combination of friendliness and energy. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

House of Blues
225 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/529-2583
Under $16
French Quarter
Creole

Jazz clubs that serve food are a decidedly mixed bag in New Orleans. The House of Blues, however, challenges the status quo with a casual restaurant that produces respectable po'boys, étouffées, and jambalaya, as well as meat loaf, baby back ribs, and pork chops that only the pickiest Southerner might disdain. Salads, sandwiches, and vegetarian dishes are prepared with imagination. At the Sunday gospel brunch, a huge buffet is set out in the concert area while the stage rocks. Seating is available in the open-air Voodoo Lounge as well as the spacious, if rather flashy, booth-lined dining room. The alternative to making reservations is a very long wait in line. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Indigo
2285 Bayou Rd., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/269-0038
Over $17
Mid-City
Contemporary

This handsome young restaurant offers a leafy refuge from the bigger and brassier restaurant districts of New Orleans - and some of the city's most innovative cooking. The neat frame cottage is a glittery enclave of lavish spaces, including a long, stained-wood bar beneath the original, embossed-tin ceiling. Chef Randy Lewis, an alumnus of restaurants operated by chefs Jean-Louis Palladin in Las Vegas and Norman Van Aiken in south Florida, brings an intensely personal style to his creations, which are both delectable and attractive. A green Rockefeller sauce infuses the risotto beneath fried oysters; fresh pear perfumes a cream soup with pureed root vegetables, and lobster meat takes on a new personality in a thin tempura crust seasoned with truffle. Servers have a good knowledge of the menu and the wines, a modest but impressive collection drawn from Europe and California. In pleasant weather, ask for a terrace table, especially at Sunday brunch. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner Sun., no lunch Tues.-Sat.

Irene's Cuisine
539 St. Philip St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/529-8811
$9 to $25
French Quarter
Italian

Its walls are festooned with enough snapshots, olive jars, garlic braids, and crockery for at least two more restaurants. But this just adds to the charm of this cozy Italian-Creole eatery on an obscure corner in the French Quarter. From Irene DiPietro's kitchen comes succulent roasted chicken brushed with olive oil, rosemary, and garlic; tubes of manicotti bulging with ground veal and mozzarella; and big, fresh shrimp, aggressively seasoned and grilled before joining linguine glistening with herbed olive oil. End with an Italian-style baked Alaska, covered with a blue flame of ignited grappa. If you come at peak dinner hours, you may have to wait in the convivial little piano bar for a table. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Johnny's Po'boys
511 St. Louis St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-9071
Under $16
French Quarter
Cafes

Strangely enough, good po'boys are hard to find in the French Quarter. Johnny's compensates for the scarcity with a cornucopia of them, even though the quality is anything but consistent. Inside the soft-crust French bread come the classic fillings - lean boiled ham, well-done roast beef in a garlicky gravy, crisply fried oysters or shrimp, and a wide variety of others. The chili may not cut it in San Antonio, but the red beans and rice are respectable. The surroundings are rudimentary. No credit cards. No dinner Sun.

K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen
416 Chartres St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/524-7394
Over $17
French Quarter
Cajun

In this rustic French Quarter café, chef Paul Prudhomme started the blackening craze and added "Cajun" to America's culinary vocabulary. Two decades later, thousands still consider a visit to New Orleans partly wasted without a visit to K-Paul's for his inventive gumbos, fried crawfish tails, blackened tuna, roast duck with rice dressing, and sweet-potato-pecan pie. Prices are steep at dinner but moderate at lunch; servings are generous. There's a second-floor balcony on Chartres Street and an upstairs room where diners can pass the time with cocktails before being seated. Reservations for dinner are also accepted. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Kelsey's
3923 Magazine St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/897-6722
Over $9
Garden District/Uptown
Creole

Randy Barlow, the owner-chef at this attractive restaurant, spent years working under the celebrated Paul Prudhomme. Although the mentor's influences are obvious in the deep, southern Louisiana flavors of Barlow's food, he has forged a style of his own. His spicy jambalaya of chicken, sausage, Cajun ham, and rabbit is one of the best versions anywhere. A home-style gumbo with seafood, chicken, and sausage has just the right balance of spicy and mellow flavors. Shrimp étouffée, in a moderately peppery sauce, is loaded with shrimp flavor. Try the orange-poppy seed cheesecake. Interesting watercolors and oils decorate the three dining rooms and roomy bar, lined in bare-wood lathing. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.

La Crêpe Nanou
1410 Robert St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/899-2670
$9 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
French

French chic for the budget-minded is the style in this welcoming little bistro, where, during peak hours, you may have a half-hour wait at the friendly bar for a table. Left Bank Paris is evoked with woven café chairs out on the sidewalk, a velvet curtain just inside the door, awnings that resemble métro-station architecture. The menu is loaded with properly earthy dishes, and the leader of the pack may be the filet mignon with one of several classic French sauces and french fries that are really French. Other reliable standbys are the pâté maison, hearty lentil soup, and lavish dessert crepes. Spaces are a little tight in the oddly configured dining areas, but the whimsical paintings and profuse greenery lighten the spirits. Regulars, mostly young professional types from the nearby frame cottages, give the place a clubby vibe. Reservations not accepted. MC, V. No lunch.

La Marquise
625 Chartres St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/524-0420
Under $9
French Quarter
Cafes

This tiny little coffee shop just off Jackson Square is a satellite of the Croissant d'Or and serves the same good coffees, croissants, and pastries. It's a bit cramped but practical and cozy. No credit cards.

La Provence
U.S. 190, across Lake Pontchartrain, Lacombe, LA, USA
Phone: 504/626-7662
Over $17
Lacombe
French

It's almost an hour's drive from central New Orleans, but the glorious French-provincial food and relaxing atmosphere of this exceptional restaurant are well worth the trip. Owner-chef Chris Kerageorgiu's elegant yet earthy cooking is consistently satisfying. Giant New Zealand mussels, still in their shells under a garlicky butter sauce, arrive on angel-hair pasta; roasted duck with garlic warms the soul; and a thick and hearty quail gumbo with rice and andouille sausage is a revelation. Bargain hunters are courted with a consistently reliable early-bird special of three courses at dinner for $14.95. Separating the two dining rooms, hung with pleasant Provençal landscape paintings, is a hearth that welcomes you on damp winter days. In warmer seasons, the tree-shaded deck is almost as congenial. Call for directions. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed.-Sat.

La Riviera
4506 Shores Dr., Metairie, LA, USA
Phone: 504/888-6238
$9 to $25
Metairie
Italian

This lively suburban fixture has a limited regional Italian menu, but overall quality is unusually high for a restaurant that can seat a couple hundred. Lots of rich tomato and cream sauces and unusually good pastas keep things interesting. The crabmeat-stuffed ravioli deserves its following, although the shrimp sautéed in wine and herbs with paprika is hard to beat. Top-quality white veal is another favorite, and the buttery piccata and marsala sauces should impress the pickiest veal lover. Space is at a premium in the two dining rooms, which are hung with large oils depicting Italian Riviera seascapes. Table service, by tuxedoed waiters, is often speedier than some diners prefer. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Le Parvenu
509 Williams Blvd., Kenner, LA, USA
Phone: 504/471-0534
Over $9
Kenner
French

It's easy to mistake Le Parvenu for a cozy little cottage near the Rivertown historic district on suburban Kenner's Mississippi riverfront. Inside, the homey mood is reinforced by small, pastel-hued dining rooms lined with flouncy drapery and unobtrusive prints. Veteran New Orleans chef Dennis Hutley has created a menu that draws inspiration from elegant Continental sauces and rich Creole flavors. Ramekins of shrimp are immersed in brandy cream. Escallopes of veal enclosing a filling of spinach and ham are lavished with Portobello mushrooms, and rosy grilled salmon is sauced with a basil-tinged hollandaise and lemon vinaigrette. Lemon crepes and crème brûlée are among the very good desserts. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Sat.

Lemon Grass Café
International House, 217 Camp St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-1200
$9 to $25
Central Business District (CBD)
Vietnamese

What draws the regulars here are the aromatic and spicy flavors of Vietnamese cuisine, specifically that of Saigon, with occasional French influences and lots of eye appeal. The dining room is another visual feast, a soothing, contemporary blend of rice-paper screens, pale walls, and simple yet striking patterns. Try crisp spring rolls filled with minced chicken, jicama root, wood-ear mushrooms, carrot, and onion; juicy soft-shell crab, roasted in a light salt-and-pepper crust; beautifully seared fish, its moistness heightened with a light, pungent sauce; and thin slices of duck breast escorted by sticky rice. Desserts are surprisingly imaginative for an Asian restaurant, with choices in styles from Asian to European, as in a chocolate Bavarian-cream pie and a strawberry napoleon. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Lilette
3637 Magazine St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/895-1636
$17 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Contemporary

At this eatery in the heart of Uptown's old Magazine Street commercial district, proprietor-chef John Harris uses New Orleans culinary traditions as a springboard to a variety of inspired dishes. In season, look for such palate-pleasers as Louisiana shrimp marinated with mussels, calamari and fennel in a mustardy vinaigrette, or the oyster stew enriched with not only milk and cream but also leeks, potatoes, and greens. Muscovy duck breast glistens in a black-olive sauce. Outside of citrus season, go for the quenelles of goat cheese and crème fraîche, with poached pears, nuggets of pistachio, and lavender honey. The dining room, small and sparse, usually is abuzz with New Orleans's hippest restaurant-hoppers. Only a few framed mirrors hang along the maroon walls; a small bar in a far corner serves as a holding area. Good service is still the goal at this young restaurant. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Mandich's
3200 St. Claude Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/947-9553
$9 to $25
Ninth Ward
Creole

This many-faceted favorite of locals resists categorizing. It occupies a neat but unremarkable building in a blue-collar neighborhood. The decor - a mix of bright yellow paint, captain's chairs, and wood veneer - won't win prizes. The food ranges from straightforward, home-style dishes to ambitious trout and shellfish dishes. Fried oysters are swathed in a finely balanced butter sauce with garlic and parsley. Shrimp and andouille sausages trade flavors on the grill. The trout Mandich (breaded, broiled, and served with a butter, wine, and Worcestershire sauce) has become a classic of the genre, and more garlic boosts slices of buttery roasted potatoes. Reservations not accepted. MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat., no dinner Tues.-Thurs.

Mandina's
3800 Canal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/482-9179
Under $16
Mid-City
Seafood

The interior of this white clapboard corner building is a study in 1940s nostalgia, with its functional bar facing a roomful of laminated tables set with sugar shakers, hot sauce, and salt and pepper. Regulars - a cross section of the population - endure a ¼-hour wait for a table under a 30-year-old newspaper clipping or the latest artwork from a St. Louis brewery. Butter, hearty seasonings, and tomato sauce are the staples. The shrimp rémoulade and old-fashioned gumbo are the logical appetizers. Broiled trout and shrimp, wading in seasoned butter, are tasty, as are the fried oysters and shrimp, the seafood or Italian sausage po'boys, and the sweet bread pudding. Service amounts to little more than taking and delivering orders. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards.

Marisol
437 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/943-1912
$17 to $25
French Quarter
Contemporary

A lovely shaded garden and frequently superb food are among the assets of this bright, attractive restaurant near the Mississippi River. A bold floral design animates the soft gold of the dining room's walls. Owner-chef Peter Vazquez is a self-taught cook with a fertile imagination and a gift for matching flavors in his frequently changing menus. Mussels are steeped to succulence in basil, scallions, and wine. A peppery Thai-style soup of crab and coconut is a marvelous marriage of elegance and fire. Roasted red snapper's freshness is underlined by a light application of tomato and pureed eggplant. Desserts are often strikingly original, as in a crème brûlée flanked by lemon madeleine cookies. Wines are carefully chosen to complement the kitchen's creations. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch Tues.-Thurs. and Sat.

Martinique
5908 Magazine St. , Uptown, New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/891-8495
$9 to $25
Garden District/Uptown
Caribbean

The French Caribbean meets New Orleans in this modest yet charming dining room and its airy, tropical courtyard. Attractive photographs and folksy, brilliantly colored Caribbean scenes perk up the pale yellow walls of the small dining room. Lighter variations on Caribbean themes are the chef's style. The dishes, all suffused with delicate herbal and spicy flavors, range from bracing poached oysters with lime and cayenne to lamb sausage with minted beans. Good, too, are the cod fritters, carrot and leek soup, salmon in pineapple-sesame sauce, and blaff, a Martiniquaise bouillabaisse that's perfect for a cool evening. Sorbets and fresh mango are typical desserts. Reservations are accepted only for parties of five or more. MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Maximo's
1117 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/586-8883
Over $9
French Quarter
Italian

This place jumps: it also serves straightforward Italian fare that's several cuts above the local norm. But don't look for extra space in the deep, narrow room, which resembles a railroad club car on especially crowded nights. The most desirable haven is one of the cozy booths along the left wall, an expanse of exposed brick hung with photographs of jazz musicians. A great way to begin is with mussels steeped in a garlicky wine broth. Big nuggets of "fire-roasted" lamb, beef, and shrimp are marvels of judicious seasoning. Garlic, pepper, and herbs invigorate the natural juices of thick, tender pork chops. The house's cheesecake is a winner, too, and the cellar holds the best selection of Italian wines, many modestly priced, in the city. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Midi
Hotel Le Meridien, 614 Canal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/527-6712
Over $17
Central Business District (CBD)
Contemporary

The word "Midi" evokes images of the south of France, and it's reflected in the spacious, two-level rooms, filled with bright yellows, blues, and greens; plants bursting from cachepots; and an approximation of French-provincial furnishings. Chef Emmanuel Bernard, newly arrived from an apprenticeship under France's famed Michel Rostang (the hotel's consulting chef), creates classic pairings such as fish soup with aioli and croutons and more daring combinations such as an appetizer of pan-sautéed shrimp, fried bacon, and cantaloupe or the puree of carrot and cumin and white-bean stew that together escort a just-pink fillet of roasted lamb. The kitchen is bold enough to improve on the city's legendary bread pudding, too. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Midnight Express
1212 Royal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/587-7975
Under $9
French Quarter
Turkish

With a scent of mint, lemon, and distinctive spices in the air and lovely Turkish relics along the walls, you'll need little effort to imagine you're in a tiny, charming café somewhere in the heart of Istanbul rather than the New Orleans French Quarter. The kitchen here opts for the familiar rather than the strange. A balance of tang and texture flavors the stuffed grape leaves, a nicely seasoned feta fills the cigarette bourek (similar to Mexican flautas), and mint adds zest to the delicious eggplant salad. Owners Fatma Aydin and her brother Suleyman Aydin also run Mona Lisa, the pizza-and-pasta place next door. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Mike Ditka's
Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/569-8989
Over $17
Central Business District (CBD)
Steak

You don't have to be a football fan to like Mike Ditka's. The former coach of the Chicago Bears and New Orleans Saints has put his name on this predictably male-oriented establishment. Stained woods, old-fashioned carpet patterns, and thick brass help define the environment, much of which is taken up by a sports bar festooned with enough TV sets and football memorabilia for two more restaurants. In the two dining rooms, steaks and chops are the menu's focus. The moist and tender New York strip steak and the huge pork chop won't disappoint carnivores. Chef Christian Karcher has augmented the red meats with seafood dishes that owe less to Midwestern gastronomy and more to his native France and his adoptive New Orleans. Those with hearty appetites should try the Creole crab cakes and Cajun-style shellfish stew. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Mosca's
4137 U.S. 90, Waggaman, LA, USA
Phone: 504/436-9942
Under $25
Waggaman
Italian

Depending on your point of view, the decor here is either charmingly unpretentious or almost primitive. The food - southern Louisiana ingredients and southern Italian ingenuity - can be good enough to lure city folk to this isolated, simple restaurant in a near-swamp about a half hour from the city. Baked oysters with artichoke, bread crumbs, olive oil, garlic, and herbs approach the summit of Italian-Creole cuisine. The Italian shrimp are cooked in an herbed mix of olive oil and spices, and the roast chicken with rosemary and Italian sausages is flavorful. Getting a table usually means waiting at the bar, even with reservations. The restaurant is difficult to spot along the highway, so call for directions. Reservations are not accepted for Friday and Saturday. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Mother's
401 Poydras St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-9656
Under $16
Central Business District (CBD)
Cafes

Thousands of tourists leave New Orleans believing that this island of blue-collar sincerity amid glittery hotels and office buildings is the city's ultimate in down-home eats. However, many locals find the place has declined in the dozen or so years since the new owners expanded operating hours and enlarged the menu. Still, Mother's keeps dispensing its delicious baked ham and roast-beef po'boys (ask for "debris" on the beef sandwich and the bread will be slathered with meat juices and shreds of meat), home-style biscuits and jambalaya, and a very good chicken gumbo in a couple of dining rooms. Breakfast eggs and coffee are sometimes cold, and cleanliness is not an obsession, but that doesn't seem to repel the hordes fighting for seats at peak mealtimes. Service is cafeteria style, with a counter or two augmenting tables. No credit cards.

Mr. B's Bistro
201 Royal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-2078
$9 to $25
French Quarter
Creole

The energy never seems to subside in this attractive restaurant. Diners choose from a dependable contemporary Creole menu centering on meats and seafood. Pasta dishes, especially the pasta jambalaya with andouille sausage and shrimp, are fresh and creative. The traditional-style bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce is excellent, too. Lunchtime finds most of the tables taken up by locals, who like the correctly composed club sandwich, the Creole takeoff on pasta carbonara, and other main attractions from the fixed-price menu. Dinner specials change nightly and include, typically, breast of guinea hen braised with roasted shallots and an offbeat gumbo with sausage and wild mushrooms. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Nola
534 St. Louis St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/522-6652
$17 to $25
French Quarter
Creole

Fans of chef Emeril Lagasse, who can't get a table at Emeril's in the Warehouse District, have this sassy and vibrant French Quarter restaurant as an alternative. Lagasse has not lowered his sights with Nola's menu, as lusty and rich as any in town. He stews boudin (blood sausage) with beer, onions, cane syrup, and Creole mustard before ladling it all onto a sweet-potato crouton. Trout is swathed in a horseradish-citrus crust before it's plank-roasted in a wood oven. Pasta comes laden with sautéed eggplant and a sauce of smoked tomatoes and Parmesan. The combinations seem endless. For dessert, try the coconut cream or apple-buttermilk pie with cinnamon ice cream. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

Old Town Pralines
627 Royal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/525-1413
Under $9
French Quarter
Cafes

Among the great delicacies left us by the 19th-century Creoles are pralines - thin, hardened-sugar-and-pecan patties that are wonderful for capping off a fine dinner or for a quick munch (the shop doesn't offer seating). The pralines are cooked so the pecan flavor permeates the candy and the firm texture is just right. They're sold individually in wax-paper packets or in boxes holding one to three dozen. The shop will ship them for you, too. No credit cards. Closed Sun.

Palace Café
605 Canal St., New Orleans, LA, USA
Phone: 504/523-1661
$17 to $25
Central Business District (CBD)
Creole