11th Street Diner
11th St. and Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-6373
Under $20
South Beach
American/Casual

Come here to relive the sights, sounds, and smells of the '50s, without the James Dean cutouts and poodle skirts. Since serving its first plate of meat loaf in 1992, the diner has become a low-price, unpretentious hangout for locals. The best time to visit is weekend mornings, when stragglers from the night before and early birds with their morning papers converge for conversation. At this busy, bustling eatery in a 1948 deco-style dining car, you can grab a corner booth and order a cherry cola, a blue plate special, or a milkshake and pretend you've traveled back in time. AE, MC, V.

1220 at the Tides
1220 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/604-5130
Over $20
South Beach
Contemporary

This restaurant is beautiful, done almost entirely in white - linens, candles, and original terrazzo floor - and seems out of place on mostly tacky Ocean Drive. Created by Chef Roger Ruch, progressive American fare is innovative without being overwhelming. Dishes such as the Island Princess, a conch tempura appetizer, and the citrus-glazed sea bass with plantain mash and banana catsup entrée acknowledge tropical influences. Classic entrées such as the wood-roasted tenderloin of beef with truffle-honey demi-glace prove why this eatery is considered the last bastion of civilization on the Drive. AE, D, MC, V.

55
455 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/532-1200
Over $10
South Beach
Contemporary

Formerly The Strand, this sumptuous Colonial-style restaurant is hip, sophisticated, and a little bit decadent. Indulge in such items as the autumn vegetable consommé with truffle-corn chantilly (whipped cream), or the semi-boneless roasted squab with root vegetables and natural jus. Co-executive chefs Sara Mair and Jason Strom show off their classic techniques and fusion concepts in tandem, so consider your appetite double-teamed. Before or after a meal, you can hang out in the library-type lounge or in the Piano Bar with some well-chosen wines. AE, MC, V.

Andre's Restaurant
16145 Biscayne Blvd., N. Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/919-9962
$10 to $30
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Italian

In a glamorous dining room appointed with French advertisements and white-linen covered tables, chef-proprietor Andre Filosa showcases his northern Italian and French-influenced cuisine. Chef Filosa coddles seafood - check out "Andre's Fever," a buttery sauté of sea scallops and jumbo shrimp over angel hair - and stocks enough fresh fish daily to tempt a dolphin. Nightly specials include his famed osso bucco, but lighter, less calorie-laden dishes are available as well. AE, MC, V.

Anokha
3195 Commodore Plaza, Coconut Grove, FL, USA
Phone: 786/552-1030
Under $30
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Indian

Miamians love the food here: shrimp cooked in pungent mustard sauce, fish cooked in an almond-cream curry, chicken wrapped in spinach and cilantro. The name means "welcome," which the customer feels upon entering this stark white, pleasant dining room. The fare is at once home style and upscale, served over flaming Bunsen burners in order to keep it warm throughout the meal. Starters include the Anokha roll, a combo of chicken and coriander enclosed in an egg-battered roti, and main courses such as the Kashmiri rogan josh, lamb in red curry sauce. The wait at your table for these delicacies can seem as long as a rush hour cab ride in Manhattan. Don't fret - there's only one cook in the kitchen, but her food is worth the delay. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Arnie and Richie's
525 41st St., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/531-7691
Under $20
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
Delicatessens

Take a deep whiff when you walk in, and you'll know what you're in for: onion rolls, smoked whitefish salad, half-sour pickles, herring in sour cream sauce, chopped liver, corned beef, pastrami. Deli doesn't get more delicious than in this family-run operation. Casual to the extreme, most customers are regulars and seat themselves at tables that have baskets of plastic knives and forks; if you request a menu, it's a clear sign you're a newcomer. If you want to be inconspicuous, peruse the deli cases first so you know what the place offers, then take a seat and put on a good front. Service can be brusque, but it sure is quick. AE, MC, V.

Artichoke's
3055 N.E. 163rd St., N. Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/945-7576
Under $20
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Contemporary

This quirky spot on North Miami Beach's main drag is a dual tribute to art and artichoke - but not, you should note, to red meat. Set off the road in a strip mall, this health-oriented, veggie-heavy restaurant can be easily overlooked by travelers but is usually packed with locals. Inside, conventional paintings and photos hang alongside sculptures and whimsical curios. In this setting the artichoke flourishes as it does nowhere else: get it broiled whole with a zesty dipping sauce, flicked into salads, tossed with pasta, and more. The spa-cuisine seafood dishes can be bland, but the pastas - especially vegetarian ones - excel. AE, D, MC, V.

Astor Place
Astor Hotel, 956 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/672-7217
Over $20
South Beach
Contemporary

The Hotel Astor has a reputation for exceptional service, so it's only natural that its chic and airy restaurant, as light and ambient as a greenhouse, follows suit. Original chef Johnny Vinczencz has returned to his place behind the stove. The results are both laudable and lovable, particularly the smoked-tomato soup with mini grilled cheese (Brie) sandwiches; the short stack of wild mushroom pancakes; and the "duck, duck, goose" entrée that presents the two birds in a host of different ways on the plate. Vinczencz may have come back to the restaurant that made his name in South Florida, but he's certainly not resting on his reputation. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Atlantic
Beach House, 9449 Collins Ave., Surfside, FL, USA
Phone: 305/695-7930
$10 to $30
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
American

Cookbook guru Sheila Lukins tries her hand at running a restaurant in the Ralph Lauren-designed, Nantucket-style Beach House hotel. The menu showcases her no-nonsense American classics - think rack of lamb with roasted new potatoes and green beans - along with more innovative New American fare, such as lobster pot pie, a house specialty. Problem is, Lukins herself is rarely on site, so you're at the mercy of the kitchen she trained, which occasionally does not perform exceptionally well in her absence. That said, it's still a nice change of pace to experience the far-from-Florida atmosphere. AE, MC, V.

Azul
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 500 Brickell Key Dr., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/913-8288
Over $10
Downtown Miami and West
Contemporary

In the new Mandarin Oriental on Brickell Key, this sumptuous restaurant has truly conquered the devil in the details. In addition to executive chef Michelle Bernstein's exotically rendered French-Caribbean cuisine, the service is thoughtful and thorough. Ask for one of the house pashminas, or try the hanger steak with foie gras sauce. Want to see how the other half lives? Descend the interior staircase to Cafe Sambal, the all-day casual restaurant downstairs. The martini bar serves 250 different concoctions. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Balan's
1022 Lincoln Rd., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-9191
Under $20
South Beach
Eclectic

Aside from its breakfast and desserts, this outpost of an English chain bears scant stamp of the mother country. Instead, a fusion menu of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and Thai elements delights the crowd here. Try deep-fried goat cheese and mushrooms in a beer-and-caraway bread crust, Moroccan chicken with spicy harissa (red pepper) sauce, sea bass over oven-roasted Italian tomatoes and sautéed potato slices, or sirloin steak with balsamic glaze and black lentils. The place is especially busy at breakfast, when it serves a traditional, cholesterol-heavy English breakfast. AE, D, MC, V.

Baleen
4 Grove Isle Dr., Coconut Grove, FL, USA
Phone: 305/858-8300
Over $10
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Contemporary

The ballyhooed location of private Grove Isle finally gets a restaurant worthy of its hype. Culinary director and consultant Robbin Haas earned his New World stripes at a variety of South Beach restaurants. Some of his signature dishes, like tangy Caesar salad or salmon tartare with Thai spices and citron caviar, have carried over from eatery to eatery, but others are reinvented: hummus and parsley-crusted salmon with tahini butter, for instance, or Roquefort-crusted filet mignon with red wine sauce. Main plates are á la carte, with steak house-type side dishes padding the bill. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Bambú
1661 Meridian Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/531-4800
Over $20
South Beach
Pan-Asian

Don't expect marquee proprietor Cameron Diaz to be waiting tables here. She's really an in-name owner only. But do anticipate glam surroundings and attitudinal customers. Muted khaki colors, woven raffia drapes, bars formed from river rocks and coconut wood, and a spectacular 14-ft granite waterfall create a relaxed environment. But the real beauty here lies in executive chef Rob Boone's fare: tuna hand rolls with avocado, cilantro, and pickled eggplant; soy-lacquered cod with tempura chrysanthemum leaves; and Kobe beef with tiny Asian vegetables and lotus root. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Basilico Ristorante
5879 N.W. 36th St., Virginia Gardens, FL, USA
Phone: 305/871-3585
Under $20
Downtown Miami and West
Italian

The neighborhood just north of Miami International Airport has few interesting dining options, but this one is worth investigating. Run by an Argentine family, Basilico has a quiet dining room insulated from all the takeoffs and landings. Delicate, delightful food at a low price includes seafood with linguine, ravioli stuffed with lobster, a lusty dish of veal nestled in mashed potatoes, and homemade desserts. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Bice
2669 S. Bayshore Dr., Coconut Grove, FL, USA
Phone: 305/860-0960
Over $10
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Italian

This Milan-based worldwide chain, run by the Ruggeri family, took over the dining room in the sumptuous Grand Bay Hotel and, despite doubts hurled by the skeptics, actually improved upon it. A multihue wood floor and a huge mural backdrop are drop-dead decor highlights. Even more interesting is the Italian menu, with choices such as pumpkin ravioli in sage sauce, followed by Nebraska-raised filet mignon. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Big Pink
157 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/532-4700
$10 to $20
South Beach
American/Casual

The decor in this innovative diner may remind you of a roller-skating rink - everything is pink Lucite, stainless steel, and campy (think sports lockers as decorative touches). And the menu is a virtual book, complete with table of contents. But the food is solidly all-American, with dozens of tasty sandwiches, pizzas, turkey or beef burgers, and side dishes, each and every one composed with a gourmet flair. Customers comprise club kids and real kids, who alternate, depending on the time of day - Big Pink makes a great spot for brunch - but both like to color with the complimentary crayons. AE, MC, V.

Biscayne Wine Merchants
738 N.E. 125th St., N. Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/899-1997
Under $20
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Contemporary

True to its name, this causally elegant little bistro lines its walls with wine racks; untrue to its moniker, it's no longer in its original spot on Biscayne Boulevard. The French-influenced menu changes often, but look for Brie in phyllo with kumquat jalapeño glaze, Portobello mushrooms in red-wine sauce, steak with bordelaise sauce, classic bouillabaisse, and cassoulet with lamb shank, sausage, and duck. As for the wine, take a stroll around the place to choose your own, or ask the proprietors for advice. Either way you go, you're sure to quaff a good vintage - and at a more reasonable price than you're probably accustomed. AE, D, MC, V.

Blue Door at the Delano
1685 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/674-6400
Over $20
South Beach
Contemporary

In a hotel where style reigns supreme, this erstwhile Madonna-owned restaurant provides both glamour and tantalizing cuisine. Acclaimed Chef Claude Troisgros and Executive Chef Elizabeth Barlow combine the flavors of classic French cuisine with South American influences to create dishes such as the Big Ravioli, filled with crab-and-scallop mousseline, and osso buco in Thai curry sauce with caramelized pineapple and bananas. The menu changes quarterly, but look for peppermint mousse in a chocolate crust for dessert. Equally pleasing is dining with the crème de la crème of Miami society. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Café Efesus
1339 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/674-0078
$10 to $20
South Beach
Turkish

Turkish cooking in a whimsical setting satisfies the predominantly Turkish clientele, which hangs out in this South Beach hideaway drinking beer and telling stories for hours. Their presence heralds the authenticity you'll find on the inexpensive, varied menu. Cold yogurt soup is a refreshing opener. Grape leaves, hummus, and phyllo stuffed with feta are good starters, as are various treatments of chickpeas. The chicken is tasty with garlic and tomato, or you can have a gyro sandwich filled with meat sliced right from a vertical spit. AE, DC, MC, V.

Café Prima Pasta
414 71st St., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/867-0106
Under $20
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
Italian

Intense flavors, quality ingredients, and on-the-spot preparation are marks of distinction here. Service can be erratic, but you forget it all on delivery of fresh-made bread with a bowl of spiced olive oil. Tender carpaccio and plentiful antipasti are a delight to share, but the real treat is the hand-rolled pasta, which can range from crab-stuffed ravioli to simple fettuccine with seafood. If overexposed tiramisu hasn't made an enemy of you yet, try this legendary one. No credit cards.

Café Tu Tu Tango
3015 Grand Ave., Coconut Grove, FL, USA
Phone: 305/529-2222
Under $10
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Latin

Local artists set up their easels in the rococo-modern arcades of this café-lounge on the second story of teen-friendly CocoWalk. A never-boring parade of people passes by outside, while inside, guests graze on chips, dips, breads, and spreads. House specials include frittatas, crab cakes, picadillo empanadas (pastries stuffed with spicy ground beef and served with cilantro sour cream), and chicken and shrimp orzo paella, all to be enjoyed with some of the best sangria in the city. AE, MC, V.

Caffè Abbracci
318 Aragon Ave., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/441-0700
$10 to $30
Coral Gables
Italian

The kitchen closes at midnight, but on weekend nights fun-loving customers - usually Brazilians - party to flamenco or salsa music 'til 2 AM. The gracious deco-style setting overflows with flowers and the mouthwatering menu tempts. After the cold and hot antipasti - various carpaccios, porcini mushrooms, calamari, grilled goat cheese, shrimps, mussels - come festive entrées. Most pasta is made fresh, so consider sampling two or three, maybe with pesto sauce, Gorgonzola, and fresh tomatoes. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Caffè Sambuca
1233 Lincoln Rd., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/532-2800
$10 to $30
South Beach
Italian

Proprietors Ernesto Soler and Eduardo Gaguine think of everyone from babies to elders as "family," and wink as they serve you huge portions of traditional Caesar salad. Gnocchi in pesto sauce works delightfully as a second course or as the entire meal, depending on your appetite, but it'd be a shame to miss out on chicken stuffed with goat cheese and glazed with a sun-dried tomato reduction. For a quick trip to Europe, choose a bottle of wine from the extensive list, sit out on the sidewalk under an umbrella, and fantasize about Florence. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Capital Grille
444 Brickell Ave., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/374-4500
Over $20
Downtown Miami and West
Steak

A palace of protein, the most elegant restaurant downtown is one of Miami's favorite spots for a power lunch. The menu is traditional and oriented to beef, the dining room handsome and filled mostly with men. Porterhouse, steak au poivre, various sirloins, and fillets head the list. All is à la carte, even the baked potato. The top appetizer is crab and lobster cakes, simply seasoned with cayenne and parsley. Black bean soup is savory, as it should be in Miami, and the spinach and Caesar salads stand out. No surprises at the end, either: the cheesecake is tops. Service can be relentlessly formal. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Captain's Tavern
7495 S.E. 98th St., S. Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/661-4237
Over $10
South Miami, Kendall, South Miami-Dade
Seafood

This beloved family fish house has an interesting menu influenced by Caribbean and South American cuisine. The decor may be hokey, with paneled walls and witty sayings on plaques hung here and there, but the food can take your mind off the surroundings. Beyond good versions of the typical fare - conch chowder and conch fritters - you'll find Portuguese fish stew, fish with various tropical fruits, a delightful black bean soup, and oysters in cream sauce with fresh rosemary, not to mention decadent desserts. AE, MC, V.

Casa Juancho
2436 S.W. 8th St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/642-2452
Over $10
Little Havana and Vicinity
Spanish

This meeting place for movers and shakers of the Cuban exilio community is also a haven for lovers of fine Spanish regional cuisine. Strolling balladeers serenade you among brown brick and walls adorned with hanging smoked meats and colorful Talavera platters. Try the hake prepared in a fish stock with garlic, onions, and Spanish white wine or the carabineros a la plancha (jumbo red shrimp with head and shell on, split and grilled). For dessert crema Catalana is a rich pastry custard with a delectable crust of burnt caramel. The house features the largest list of reserved Spanish wines in the States. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Casa Larios
7705 W. Flagler St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/266-5494
Under $20
Downtown Miami and West
Cuban

Yes, South Florida has 1,000 Cuban restaurants, but this one stands out for its consistently excellent food. The chicken soup is golden yellow, pearly, salty - the perfect elixir. Look for specials like roast pork loin, roasted lamb, caldo gallego (white-bean soup with ham and greens), and the Argentine-inspired churrasco, a boneless strip steak with chimichurri (a sauce of oil, vinegar, and herbs). The restaurant spawned Larios on the Beach, on Ocean Drive, where Gloria Estefan and husband Emilio are partners. AE, MC, V.

Casa Panza
1620 S.W. 8th St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/643-5343
$10 to $20
Little Havana and Vicinity
Spanish

Here, you'll have no problem getting your fill of authentic Spanish delicacies like fat tortillas, fish sautéed with tomato and garlic, sautéed octopus, traditional tapas, and garlic-sautéed shrimp. Try a Spanish wine from the expansive cellar, and after your meal enjoy a hand-rolled stogie in the cigar room. There are also a charcuterie and gourmet shop alongside a sidewalk café. The restaurant hosts special events such as wine and food tastings, ceramic workshops, talks by visiting artists, and flamenco dancing. AE, MC, V.

Charlie's Roast Beef
1570 Alton Rd., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/531-9555
Under $10
South Beach
American/Casual

Okay, it's a chain, albeit one from South America (this is the only U.S. location). But these plump roast beef sandwiches enchant everyone who takes a bite, from gourmets to gourmands. Sample one with smoked barbecue sauce, or the roast beef on a bagel special with sautéed mushrooms and onions. Sweet gherkins complement all the sandwiches, and health-conscious folks can fool themselves with turkey instead of beef. But there's no getting around the deep-fried onion rings: thick-cut, batter-dipped, and juicy. AE, MC, V.

Cheeky Monkey
Blue Moon Hotel, 944 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-2650
$20 to $30
South Beach
Contemporary

In Merv Griffin's Blue Moon Hotel, the fare is globally influenced; indeed, dishes such as the Turkish fig wrapped in phyllo with prosciutto di Carpegna, Danish blue cheese, toasted pignoli cream, and a port wine-balsamic glaze seem to gather as many countries on one plate as possible. The Monkey frequently throws private shindigs and closes the restaurant to the public, so it's best to call first and find out if there's a do. AE, MC, V.

Chef Allen's
19088 N.E. 29th Ave., Aventura, FL, USA
Phone: 305/935-2900
Over $20
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Contemporary

James Beard award-winning chef and cookbook author Allen Susser presents his global cuisine in this art gallery of a dining room. Susser creates contemporary American masterpieces from a menu that changes nightly. After a salad of baby greens and warm wild mushrooms, or a rock-shrimp hash with roasted corn, consider swordfish with conch-citrus couscous, macadamia nuts, and lemon or grilled lamb chops with eggplant timbale and a three-nut salsa. It's hard to resist ending with a soufflé; order it when you order your appetizer to eliminate a mouthwatering wait at the end of your meal. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

China Grill
404 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-2211
Over $20
South Beach
Pan-Asian

Crowded and noisy, this celebrity haunt turns out "world cuisine" in large portions meant for sharing. Crispy duck with scallion pancakes and caramelized black-vinegar sauce is a nice surprise, as is pork and beans with green apple and balsamic mojo (a garlicky Cuban marinade). Mechanical service delivers the acceptable broccoli rabe dumpling starter, a wild mushroom pasta entrée, or the flash-fried crispy spinach that shatters like a good martini glass thrown into a fireplace. Unless you're frequent diners Boris Becker or George Clooney, don't expect your drinks to arrive before your food. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.

Chrysanthemum
2911 Grand Ave., Coconut Grove, FL, USA
Phone: 305/443-6789
Under $20
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Chinese

The cooking here rests on Beijing and Szechuan foundations, and it's uniformly delightful. Flash-fried crispy spinach, tossed with peppered chicken, is a revelation, as is crab soup with asparagus and rice. Spinach noodles with peanut sauce and pan-fried noodles Szechuan style perform well, too. The high point of a dinner here is the Peking duck: moist, dark meat and skin wrapped in a pancake with scallions and plum sauce, the breast meat carved table-side, and the remnants stir-fried with bean sprouts. Don't bother with the run-of-the-mill desserts; stroll tourist-friendly Coconut Grove for alternatives. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Crystal Café
726 41st St., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/673-8266
$10 to $30
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
Contemporary

As cozy as Grandma's dining room, this New Continental restaurant takes the classics and lightens 'em up. Beef Stroganoff and chicken paprikash (braised, with sour cream) are two such updated stars; and osso buco literally falls off the bone. More contemporary items include chicken Kiev, stuffed with goat cheese and topped with a tricolor salad, and pan-seared duck breast with raspberry sauce. The watercress-mushroom salad with homemade honey-mustard dressing is big enough for four, and three side dishes garnish every main course. Regardless, home-baked rhubarb pie is a sweet-tart absolute must. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Dab Haus
852 Alton Rd., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-9557
Under $20
South Beach
German

Garlic is the star at this German pub far from the hubbub of South Beach. The tasty bulb pops up in a luscious, light soup; it enlivens a scampilike shrimp appetizer; and it flavors creamy mashed potatoes. All the German favorites are here, including a wonderfully spicy goulash, sauerbraten, schnitzels, homemade spaetzle, and sausages such as bratwurst and curry wurst. Big draft beers - the servers recommend the thirst-quenching Hefe-Weizen (wheat beer) - wash it all down, even the Nutella crepes, which are hard to resist. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Daily Bread Marketplace
2400 S.W. 27th St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/856-5893
Under $10
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Middle Eastern

Essentially a marketplace run by an Israeli family, this place and its cuisine are best described as pan-Middle Eastern. Falafel and gyro pita pockets, some of the most tempting in the county, counter Arabic meat pies and Greek spinach pies. Desserts are uniformly sticky with honey, drenched with butter, and encrusted with nuts - not a bad way to go out, whether you eat in at the self-service tables or take out. MC, V.

Divina
David William Hotel, 210 23rd St., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/604-1468
$10 to $30
South Beach
Mexican

After closing the original Divina, proprietors Alejandro Garcia and Lorena Vega-Beuggie re-opened their well-respected haute Mexican restaurant. Fans couldn't be happier to see the return of signature dishes such as the corn torte with poblano peppers, cilantro soup, filet mignon garnished with huitlacoche (corn fungus), or the snapper in tamarind sauce. Make reservations, and put quesadillas and burritos far from mind: here you'll encounter food as fine as that found in the culinary capital of Mexico City. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues.

Donna's Bistro
David William Hotel, 700 Biltmore Way, Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/445-7821
$10 to $30
Coral Gables
Contemporary

A gourmet market and dining room, this cozy bistro is exactly what the intimate David William Hotel needed. Executive chef Donna Wynter, who was born in Jamaica and trained in New York and France, plies guests with her blend of Asian, Caribbean, French, and local cuisines. Her heritage and influences are apparent in dishes such as sautéed baby calamari with lime and ancho chilies; Florida avocado and hearts-of-palm salad with ruby-red grapefruit vinaigrette; and Jamaican jerk free-range chicken with a savory potato timbale. AE, MC, V.

El Bodegon Gallego
3174 N.W. 7th Ave., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/649-0801
Under $10
Downtown Miami and West
Spanish

Ridiculously cheap, this small storefront establishment serves tasty tapas and hefty main courses. Although the menu may escape those who only speak English, sign language will get you a large order of chickpeas sautéed with chorizo, a lusty seafood soup, or yellow rice with chicken and shrimp. Consider the wrought iron on the windows not as an indication of how bad the neighborhood is, but how good the creamy desserts flavored with alcohol are - most customers will willingly put themselves behind bars for a single spoonful. No credit cards.

El Rancho Grande
1626 Pennsylvania Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/673-0480
$10 to $20
South Beach
Mexican

The location (just off Lincoln Road) and the menu (mainstream Mexican) have made this neighborhood restaurant so popular it's won a slew of "best" awards in area dining polls. Prices are reasonable, and service is casual and laid-back. Beef flautas (flute-shape fried tortillas), chicken enchiladas, taquitas (mini-tacos), and more are served in a cantina-style setting recently expanded to include a second dining room, bar, and an outdoor terrace. Don't look for frills, but do watch out for some tangy cochinita pibil, or marinated pork, and some hefty California-style burritos. Vegetarians get a page of the menu all to themselves here. AE, MC, V.

Empeek Cheke
500 S.W. 177th Ave., Redlands, FL, USA
Phone: 305/925-2559
Over $10
South Miami, Kendall, South Miami-Dade
Native American

Members of the Miccosukee Indian tribe spared no expense when they created this luxe steak house on the second floor of the new art deco casino/hotel complex. Downstairs, the clanging bells and howling whistles signal gamblers' wins and losses; upstairs, popping corks and sizzling steaks punctuate the diners' desires. Everglades cuisine is big here - check out alligator tail Provençal or panfried frogs' legs for a starter. Then move on to venison tenderloin, buffalo sirloin, or baked Florida grouper with lobster-shrimp sauce. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Escopazzo
1311 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/674-9450
$10 to $30
South Beach
Italian

This romantic storefront is far removed from the din of bustling Washington Avenue. The northern Italian menu offers some of the area's best - and most expensive - Italian food. But innovative treatments of standard ingredients make it worth the outlay of cash. Sea bass gets "scales" of crusty potato, goat cheese and arugula are mixed into a risotto, and various soufflés feature vegetables and mixed seafood. Service can be slow as a speedboat in a manatee zone; pass the time by taking a tour of the 1,000-bottle wine cellar. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. during summer. No lunch.

Farolito
2885 Coral Way, Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-4122
Under $20
Little Havana and Vicinity
Peruvian

The menu at this small but tasteful storefront can be summed up easily: seafood, beef, pasta, and potato, the big four of Peru. Primary education begins with potatoes prepared in the traditional style, with creamy white cheese sauce, black olives, and egg. Continue on to middle school with a bracing ceviche, then attend high school with a thin boneless steak served with thick spaghetti and pesto. Hearty cilantro-laden beef stew is for the college-level appetite, and a surprising shredded chicken in a creamy sauce of minced walnut, garlic, egg, and milk is clearly graduate work. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Fatti Una Pizza
444 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-4846
Under $20
South Beach
Italian

This bustling joint pays homage to the pizza oven - just about everything is cooked in it. Milanese pizzas like the quattro stagioni (four seasons), which features individual sections of mozzarella, marinara, ham, and mushroom, are impressively thin and crispy. In addition to the pies, baked pastas and even a T-bone are cooked in the wood-burning oven. Start with a caprese salad - the management flies over fresh bufala (buffalo-milk) mozzarella just to pair it with Florida vine-ripe tomatoes. AE, MC, V.

Fishbone Grill
650 S. Miami Ave., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/530-1915
Under $20
Downtown Miami and West
Seafood

The artsy humor of this place is evident in the campy decor, but the fish here is artful, no-nonsense, globally influenced, and impeccably fresh. Start with jalapeño cornbread served alongside a small salad with homemade tomato-basil dressing. Then order your fish from a blackboard and have it grilled, blackened, sautéed, baked, Française-style, or Asian. Pizzas are available, too, as is a mean cioppino, the San Francisco-style fish stew in a tomato base. Fishbone serves beer and wine only and justifiably prides itself on a reasonably priced, varied selection. Watch for winemakers' dinners, when superb vintages are paired with the chef's whims. AE, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

The Forge
432 Arthur Godfrey Rd., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/538-8533
Over $20
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
Continental

Often compared to a museum, this landmark bills itself as "the Versailles of steak." Behind a mansionlike facade, each intimate dining salon has its own historical artifacts, including a chandelier that hung in James Madison's White House. The wine cellar contains 380,000 bottles, some costing as much as $35,000. In addition to steak, specialties include Norwegian salmon with spinach vinaigrette and free-range Wisconsin duck roasted with black currants. For dessert, try the blacksmith pie. This place is a hot party spot on Wednesday night, and the adjoining club, Café Nostalgia, is popular with the "I remember Cuba" crowd. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Garcia's
398 N.W. North River Dr., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/375-0765
Under $20
Downtown Miami and West
Seafood

Pull up your rowboat for outdoor waterfront dining at this tiny seafood joint on the Miami River. The menu is simple and limited, but the fish sure is fresh. Grilled dolphin - on a sandwich or with various Cuban-style side dishes - is juicy and well-seasoned. Grouper chowder, the classic Cuban fish soup, excels here, and fried calamari benefits from a peppy cocktail sauce. The conch fritters are truly packed with conch, or you can enjoy fish, shrimp, and chicken on kebabs, the primary entrée option. There's also a fish market inside. MC, V.

Gaucho Room
Loews hotel, 1601 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/604-5290
Over $20
South Beach
Steak

You'll probably never taste a more succulent steak anywhere than in this Argentine-cowboy-themed room in the friendly Loews hotel. But don't you dare call this a steak house. Executive Chef Frank Randazzo cut his culinary teeth on fusion cuisine. The results are seen in pulled duck empanada with smoked chili sauce, Chilean sea bass with boniato-ginger puree, and seared turbot with pickled beet-brown butter escabeche (Spanish marinade). Which is not to say that you shouldn't order the supple churrasco, a whole skirt steak marinated, grilled, and then sliced table-side. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Giacosa
394 Giralda Ave., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/445-5858
$10 to $30
Coral Gables
Italian

From the moment your server places a napkin in your lap to the moment he discreetly presents your check, the smooth staff is the standard of competence. While you contemplate your choices, a tower of airy pita bread with a carafe of olive oil appears on your table. A tricolore salad imparts the bitter kiss of arugula; pastas, veal, and fresh seafood are all prepared for peak taste. When you request it, Parmesan is freshly grated onto your plate. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Gourmet Diner
13951 Biscayne Blvd., N. Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/947-2255
$10 to $20
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Contemporary

This amusingly eclectic, mainly French-influenced diner won't remind you a bit of the fare on Amtrak. Starters of steamed artichoke hearts, pasta-and-tuna salad, or crisp salads neatly provoke the palate. Hearty and well-prepared entrées are served with delicate vegetable purees and roasted potatoes. This is the place to head when you have a hankering for sautéed calf's liver, in addition to grilled snapper, rack of lamb, rare tuna, or a big, juicy New York strip. The fruit tart is one of Miami's best desserts. AE, DC, MC, V.

Guayacan
1933 S.W. 8th St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/649-2015
Under $20
Little Havana and Vicinity
Latin

Offering counter service and a comfortable if simple dining room, this family-run establishment serves all the traditional Nicaraguan foods: the signature grilled churrasco (barbecued) steak; a sticky sweet tres leches (cake with "three milks"), and rich, mellow Victoria beer. For openers, seviche of sea bass sparks the palate, likewise the appetizer combo antojitos Guayacan, a mostly fried array. Your main course might be nacatamale, a stuffed plantain leaf; a simple half-chicken; or, of course, a boneless strip steak served with a selection of three lusty, spicy sauces. All entrees come with gallo pinto, red beans and rice, and plenty of seasoning. AE, MC, V.

Hardaway's Firehouse Four
1000 S. Miami Ave., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/371-3473
Under $20
Downtown Miami and West
American/Casual

Influenced by every region from Asia to Latin America to the Caribbean, fare such as tenderloin tips sprinkled with lime and garlic or boniato-leek soup can be iffy on busy nights. It's best to stick with innovative sandwiches, such as the tuna burger with soba-noodle salad or the Euro-Cuban sandwich, a conglomeration of roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, and red onions layered on focaccia. Better yet, skip the eats and head for the drinks - Firehouse Four's Friday happy hour is legendary, with normally sedate businessfolk thronging the streets like college students on spring break. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Hy-Vong Vietnamese Cuisine
3458 S.W. 8th St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-3674
$10 to $20
Little Havana and Vicinity
Vietnamese

This plain little restaurant is an anomaly on Calle Ocho, and also a novelty - come before 7 PM to avoid a wait. Spring rolls of ground pork, cellophane noodles, and black mushrooms wrapped in homemade rice paper are delicious. Folks will wait for hours to sample the whole fish panfried with nuoc man, a garlic-lime fish sauce, not to mention the thinly sliced pork barbecued with sesame seeds, almonds, and peanuts. A half-dozen top brews (Double Grimbergen, Moretti, and Spaten, among them) enhance the dining experience. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Il Tulipano
11052 Biscayne Blvd., N. Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/893-4811
Over $10
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Italian

A veteran Italian establishment on Biscayne Boulevard. The parking lot is filled with Rolls-Royces and Caddies, and dinner generally runs about $70 a head. But don't worry: early bird specials - especially in summer - offer your wallet a break. Tuck into funghi (mushrooms) sautéed in olive oil with baby artichokes; a salad with chopped plum tomatoes, mozzarella, radicchio, and Portobello mushrooms; and mussels in white wine sauce. Choose from nearly 20 pastas and dozens of meat offerings, too. The lamb chops are ruby red and succulent; the snapper broiled in bread crumbs is delicate and zesty. It's all topped off with traditional desserts. MC, V.

Indigo
Hotel Inter-Continental, 100 Chopin Plaza, Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/854-9550
$10 to $30
Downtown Miami and West
Contemporary

When the Hotel Inter-Continental decided to redo its lobby restaurants, it didn't fool around The entire lobby is now one big open-wall eatery, where you can watch vacationers get ready to depart for the cruise ships while they sup on the globally influenced cuisine. The menu's a trifle too cutesy for serious gourmets, with categories like "salappzs and ladles" and "dare 2 share." Stone crab croquetas are on offer to start, and Moroccan tagine (stew) is available to share as an entrée. Some items are overly ambitious, and service doesn't try hard enough. However, a great wine list and moderately priced brunches, lunch buffets, and happy-hour spreads suit the suits who work in nearby downtown. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Islas Canarias
285 N.W. 27th Ave., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/649-0440
Under $10
Little Havana and Vicinity
Cuban

Since 1976 this has been a gathering place for Cuban poets, pop-music stars, and media personalities. Murals depict a Canary Islands street scene (owner Santiago Garcia's grandfather came from Tenerife). The low-priced menu, which includes breakfast, carries such Canary Islands dishes as baked lamb, and tortilla española (Spanish omelet with onions and chorizo), as well as Cuban standards like steak and fried kingfish. Don't miss the three superb varieties of homemade chips - potato, malanga (a tropical tuber), and plantain. D, MC, V.

Japengo
Hyatt Regency, 400 S.E. 2nd Ave., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/679-3055
$20 to $30
Downtown Miami and West
Pan-Asian

Hotel restaurants sure aren't the disappointments they used to be. This one in the Hyatt Regency has an outstanding photographic mural of Hong Kong and a stunning quantity of hand-carved Lalique glass. The sushi here is top-rate, if traditional. Pan-Asian dishes, including char su (barbecued glazed) duck on mixed baby greens with vegetable root chips, take Hawaii, China, Thailand, and even South America into account. Too exotic for your typical business traveler tastes? Don't worry - the place also supplies a grilled hamburger on focaccia. AE, MC, V.

Joe Allen
1787 Purdy Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/531-7007
$10 to $20
South Beach
American

Hidden away in a bustling neighborhood of condos, town houses, and stores, this casual, upscale eatery is a hangout for locals who crave a good martini along with a terrific burger. Owner Joe Allen, reared in the kitchens and dining rooms of Manhattan, wants to feel at home in his own place, and he does it by serving meat loaf as well as grilled fish over mesclun greens. The eclectic crowd includes kids and grandparents, and the menu has everything from pizzas to calf's liver to steaks. Start with an innovative salad, such as arugula with pear, prosciutto, and a Gorgonzola dressing, or roast beef salad on greens with Parmesan. Desserts are home style as well, including banana cream pie and ice cream and cookie sandwiches. MC, V.

Joe's Stone Crab Restaurant
227 Biscayne St., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/673-0365; 305/673-4611 for takeout; 800/780-2722 for overnight shipping
Over $10
South Beach
Seafood

Because it's somewhat of a Miami phenomenon, Joe's stubbornly operates by its own rules and closes down entirely for part of the year. It does not take reservations even though it attracts phenomenal crowds. Come prepared to wait up to an hour in line just to register your name for a table, and resign yourself to waiting up to another three hours before you finally sit down to eat. The centerpiece of the ample à la carte menu is, of course, stone crab, with a piquant mustard sauce. Popular side orders include creamed garlic spinach, french-fried onions, fried green tomatoes, and hash browns. Desserts range from a justifiably famous key lime pie to apple pie with a crumb-pecan topping. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sept.-Oct. 15. No lunch Sun.-Mon.

Kebab Indian Restaurant
514 N.E. 167th St., N. Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/940-6309
$10 to $20
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Indian

Private, curtained booths in this small, rather creaky, and certainly aromatic place set the mood for romantic interludes or serious business dealings - and some delicious Indian food. Excellent mulligatawny soup is filled with golden lentils. Get your meat fix with the mixed tandoori grill, featuring beef, lamb, and chicken. Shrimp vindaloo is thick, savory, and spicy; ask for it hot, and ye shall receive, as there's no downplaying to sissified American palates here. Cool yourself off with fragrant nan bread, raita (yogurt-cucumber dip), or a homemade sweet lassi (yogurt drink). AE, DC, MC, V.

Kyung Ju
400 N.E. 163rd St., N. Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/947-3838
Under $30
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Korean

Serving the spiciest of Asian cuisines - Korean - this unstylish but wonderfully tasty spot is on North Miami-Dade's busiest east-west street. Try tofu in a searing sauce of sesame, soy, ginger, and dried chilies; spicy seasoned beef and vegetable soup with ginger and garlic; and seasoned, boiled black codfish casserole. Mongolian barbecue is a grill-your-own house specialty, and everyone gets free vegetable garnishes: kimchi (pickled cabbage), spinach with sesame seeds, mustard greens, and pickled bean sprouts. The atmosphere is limited to a TV, but the food is excitement enough. AE, DC, MC, V.

La Dorada
177 Giralda Ave., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-2002
Over $20
Coral Gables
Spanish

This roomy two-story eatery sets the standard for fine Spanish cuisine. Named after the royal sea bream, the restaurant brings in fresh fish daily from the Bay of Biscay, rather than Biscayne Bay. Preparations are both classic and excellent: scallops sautéed with grapes, monkfish stuffed with shrimp, whole fish baked in rock salt. Not a lot of English is spoken here, thanks to an all-Spanish staff, so service can be a little off. But they do make an effort to please, catering to those whims that get across language barriers. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

La Paloma
10999 Biscayne Blvd., N. Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/891-0505
$10 to $30
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Continental

Contemporary diners could find this Swiss Continental restaurant somewhat old-fashioned, but it's a great place for a total sensory experience: fine food, impeccable service, and the ambience of an art museum. Since 1977, owners Werner and Maria Staub have displayed the ornate European antiques they've collected for decades: Baccarat crystal, Limoges china, Meissen porcelain, and Sèvres clocks. The multilingual staff serves freshly prepared local fish and shellfish, Wiener schnitzel, veal chops with morel sauce, and herb-encrusted lamb chops with a quiet flamboyance appropriate to its Old Europe setting. For dessert and nightcap in one, try the lemon sherbet with fresh kiwi and vodka. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Lan
8332 S. Dixie Hwy., S. Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/661-8141
Under $30
South Miami, Kendall, South Miami-Dade
Pan-Asian

On the ground floor of an inaccessible megamall, this unlikely little spot is the sole reason to visit. Soothing decor smooths the furrowed brow, while pan-Asian cuisine excites the palate. Aside from rolls and summer-fresh sashimi, Lan supplies the connoisseur of all cuisines with Asian satays, pot stickers, braised ribs, and sake-steamed clams. Vegetarians get a nod, too, with "green plates" that feature a grilled mushroom sampler or spinach seared with garlic and chilies. Innovative desserts include spring rolls or wontons stuffed with fruit and chocolate. AE, MC, V.

Las Delicias del Mar Peruano
2937 Biscayne Blvd., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/571-1888
Under $20
Downtown Miami and West
Peruvian

If ever there was a mom-and-pop place, this is it. Especially if Mom and Pop are Peruvian. This salute to the coastal cuisine of western Peru snaps with wonderfully fresh food and surprising flavors. Start with papa a la huancaina, a traditional boiled-potato appetizer whose creamy white cheese sauce is enlivened with chilies. Move from land to sea with shrimp creole, a creamy revelation with a pink sauce that's a silky delight, or try cau cau de los mariscos, a seafood stew that startles with its combination of mint and potato. The vast menu has plenty of landlubber treats, too. AE, MC, V.

Las Neuvas Culebrinas
4700 W. Flagler St., Miami, FL, USA
Phone: 305/445-2337
Under $20
Little Havana and Vicinity
Spanish

A Spanish tapacería (house of little plates) is a place to live each meal as if it were your last, though you may wait for it as long as some inmates do for an appeal. Tapas are not small at all; some are entrée size, such as a succulent mix of garbanzos with ham, sausage, red peppers, and oil, or the Spanish tortilla, a giant Frisbee-shape omelet. Indulge in a tender fillet of crocodile, fresh fish, grilled pork, or the kicker, goat in Coca-Cola sauce. For dessert there's a bit of drama - crema Catalana, caramelized right at your table with a blowtorch. AE, MC, V.

Le Festival
2120 Salzedo St., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/442-8545
Over $10
Coral Gables
French

The canopied entrance to this classical French restaurant hints at the elegance within, a Parisian moderne room featuring etched-glass filigree and burgundy-, mahogany-, and rose-tinted details. A second room, for smokers, is more gilded. Main courses include fillet of grouper in bouillabaisse sauce; stuffed quail with a grape and red-wine sauce; chateaubriand for two; and milk-fed veal sautéed with mushrooms, grapes, and brandy cream sauce. For dessert, choose among various pastries, mousses, and soufflés. The wine list includes 100 selections, many priced under $30. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Macau Chinese Bakery
520 N.E. 167th St., N. Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/947-5594
Under $20
North Dade, North Miami Beach, North Miami
Chinese

The proprietors create Chinese baked goods on the premises and sell them in bakery cases, hence the name. But if your agenda includes more than a bag of almond cookies or home-baked pork buns - that is, a full-blown multicourse feast - option one of the dozen tables inside. Highly personalized service guides you through a menu that ranges from the predictable Americanized favorites to outrageously Chinese dishes. Chicken with sweet corn and watercress with pork are pleasantly mild soups perfect for a winter cold snap; shrimp with salty pepper flavor is stimulating any time of year. MC, V.

Maiko Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar
1255 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/531-6369
Under $30
South Beach
Japanese

A dependable place to order sushi standards, plus an amorous-sounding creation called the kissing roll - crab, avocado, and cucumber coated with tiny fish eggs. Models hang around for the steamed dumplings with ponzu (with soy and sake) sauce, while club kids line their bellies with flavorful teriyaki, sautéed eel, and soba noodle soups. They also get a good jump on the evening with the sake, which Maiko presents in warm abundance. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Mayfair Grill and Orchids Champagne and Wine Bar
Mayfair House Hotel, 3000 Florida Ave., Coconut Grove, FL, USA
Phone: 305/441-0000
Over $20
Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne
Contemporary

This dining room in the Mayfair House Hotel can seem Old World, thanks to its muffled atmosphere and carpeted elegance, but the cooking is more innovative than the decor suggests. Chef Frank Liberoni, who draws on Asian, Caribbean, and French influences, prepares some stunning dishes: Thai crab cakes with panko crumbs and a sesame-chili glaze; Colorado buffalo loin carpaccio splashed with white truffle oil; and rack of lamb barbecued with apple and ancho chile. If it all sounds a bit too filling, try the outdoor courtyard at Orchids, the only champagne bar in town. No lunch. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Miss Saigon Bistro
146 Giralda Ave., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-8006
Under $20
Coral Gables
Vietnamese

The musical was the inspiration for this family-run restaurant, and yes, the soundtrack plays ad nauseam. The staff also wears traditional Vietnamese dress. But overall the effect is quaint rather than campy, and the dining room, decorated with orchids, is serene. The first act commences with delicate spring rolls, pork-stuffed crepes, or steamed mussels. Take intermission with tangy green papaya salad, then return to the second act for chicken with lemongrass or caramelized pork. Close with grilled salmon with mango, then toast curtain calls with a bottle from the reasonably priced wine list. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

MozartStube
325 Alcazar Ave., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-1600
$10 to $30
Coral Gables
Austrian

It's Oktoberfest year-round at this Austrian schnitzelhaus. The Bitburger starts flowing as you peruse a menu loaded with heavy but scrumptious food. Start with a light garlic soup or maybe some snails in a lagoon of butter and garlic. Terrific plates of German potato salad and homemade slaw precede ultrameaty entrées such as veal shank, roast duckling, medallions of filet mignon in peppercorn mushroom sauce, and, of course, wurst and schnitzel. The Black Forest cake is as legendary as the woods themselves. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Nemo
100 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/532-4550
Over $10
South Beach
Contemporary

In a neighborhood that has emerged as a South Beach hot spot, Michael Schwartz's Nemo was a SoFi (South of Fifth Street) pioneer. The open-air atmosphere, bright colors, copper fixtures, and tree-shaded courtyard lend casual comfort; but its location is not why Nemo receives the raves it does. The menu blends Caribbean, Asian, Mediterranean, and Middle Eastern influences in appetizers like garlic-cured salmon rolls with Tabiko caviar and wasabi mayo, and crispy prawns with spicy salsa cruda (uncooked). Main courses might include wok-charred salmon or grilled Indian-spice pork chop. Nemo also serves a terrific Sunday brunch, and Hedy Goldsmith's funky pastries are exquisitely sinful. Look also for the sibling sushi bar next door. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.

Norman's
21 Almeria Ave., Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-6767
Over $20
Coral Gables
Contemporary

This premier restaurant turns out some of Miami's most imaginative cuisine. Chef Norman Van Aken has created an international buzz by perfecting the art of New World cuisine - a combination rooted in Latin, North American, Caribbean, and Asian influences. Bold tastes are delivered in every dish, from a simple black-and-white-bean soup with chorizo and tortillas to a rum-and-pepper-painted grouper on a mango-habañero sauce. The decor includes plenty of wrought iron, vaulted ceilings, interior balconies, and open kitchens. The emphasis is on ultragracious service. You'll be asked for a credit-card number when you make reservations (in advance); if you pull a no-show, you'll be charged a set fee per head. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Oasis Café
976 41st St., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/674-7676
Under $20
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
Mediterranean

The emphasis in Mediterranean cuisine is on health, and Oasis, a coolly tiled spot with breezy decor, makes sure you don't keel over at the tables - the chefs here stuff grape leaves, not arteries. In other words, natural-food enthusiasts feel right at home, with delicacies such as eggplant salads, hummus, grilled sesame tofu, and sautéed garlic spinach for starters, and for entrées, pan-seared turkey chop, roasted vegetable lasagna, grilled fresh fish on focaccia, or penne with turkey, tomato, saffron, and pine nuts. The homemade rum cake is a superb way to drink dessert. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Oggi Café
1740 79th St. Causeway, North Bay Village, FL, USA
Phone: 305/866-1238
Under $30
Miami Beach North of 23rd Street
Italian

This casually elegant eatery is the clichéd all-American success story. Owners (and cousins) Alex Portela and Eloy Roy, both from Argentina, opened a storefront pasta factory which delivered handmade noodles and ravioli to surrounding restaurants. Local patrons hungry for Italian cuisine started to wander in, so the cousins decided to add tables. These days the place has been expanded twice, and folks come from the tricounty area to sample the signature goods, stuffed with fish and topped with lobster sauce. Grilled beef, poultry, and fresh fish dishes also rate raves. Breads, desserts, and salad dressings are all made on the premises as well. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Ortanique on the Mile
278 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables, FL, USA
Phone: 305/446-7710
Over $10
Coral Gables
Caribbean

Named after an exotic citrus fruit, this restaurant screams "island" - from the breezy interior decorated like a Jamaican terraced garden to the exquisite pan-Caribbean cuisine. Proprietor Delius Shirley and chef-proprietor Cindy Hutson used to run Norma's on the Beach. They've improved upon themselves with their new eatery, offering such old favorites as pumpkin soup or fried calamari salad and new ones such as escovitched whole yellowtail snapper (fried and served with a spicy sauce) or jerk pork loin. Dessert doesn't get better than drunken banana fritters. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Osteria del Teatro
1443 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/538-7850
$10 to $30
South Beach
Italian

Thanks to word of mouth, this northern Italian restaurant is constantly full. Orchids grace the tables in the intimate gray-on-gray room with a low, laced-canvas ceiling, Deco lamps, and the most refined clink and clatter along Washington Avenue. Regulars know not to order off the printed menu, however. A tremendous variety of daily specials offers the best options. A representative appetizer is poached asparagus served over polenta triangles with a Gorgonzola sauce. Stuffed pastas, including spinach crepes overflowing with ricotta, can seem heavy but taste light; fish dishes yield a rosemary-marinated tuna or salmon in a pink peppercorn-citrus sauce. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Pacific Time
915 Lincoln Rd., Miami Beach, FL, USA
Phone: 305/534-5979
Over $20
South Beach
Pan-Asian

Packed nearly every night, chef-proprietor Jonathan Eismann's superb eatery has a high blue ceiling, banquettes, plank floors, and an open kitchen. The brilliant American-Asian cuisine