This typical creole restaurant offers several excellent set menus. You might choose seafood callaloo, fried conch or sea urchin, or scallops sautéed in white wine. The decor is attractive: bamboo walls, straw thatching, madras napery, a veritable jungle of potted plants, and clever paintings of seafood. The only drawback is its position on the "wrong side" of the road, away from the beach. Choose a table in the front area of the terrace to benefit from any passing breezes. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Bidjoul
Grande Anse, Anse-d'Arlets, Martinique
Phone: 596/68-65-28
Under $30
Anse-d'Arlets
Seafood

Many modest restaurants line the small side street that is actually Anse-d'Arlets's main drag. The street borders the water, and fishermen sail right up to the eateries with their latest catch. Bidjoul has a tiny dining room; opt for one of the tables set up under the canopy on the beach across the road. The salads (try the smoked salmon, or the pêcheur, with tuna, shrimp, crab, and rice) are huge and the grilled fish as fresh as can be. So, too, is the fish at the other restaurants, but this owner's enthusiasm makes it stand out. MC, V.

Chez Titine
Rte. du Tartane, La Trinité, Martinique
Phone: 596/58-27-28
Under $40
La Trinité
Seafood

There's a view of the water and a little rocky island from this simple, cheerful restaurant with bright tablecloths and wooden chairs. Owner Emile is very welcoming and serves fresh big salads, accras, boudin créole, steak frites, fried chicken, and lobster that you can pick yourself from a lobster tank. The tropical sorbets hit the spot after a morning on the beach. MC. No dinner Sun.

Délices de la Mer
Pointe des Salines, Ste-Anne, Martinique
Phone: 596/74-85-39
Over $20
Ste-Anne
Eclectic

At the southernmost tip of Les Salines Beach, you'll find this small, open-air, beachfront restaurant that serves solid fare from land and sea. The prices are generally modest (although the langouste fricassee is an exception), and the views of Diamond Rock and the ocean are spectacular. During your meal don't be surprised if hummingbirds dart in and out of sight. Reservations at this casual eatery are not required, although it can get awfully crowded during the high season. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner.

Habitation Céron
Anse Céron, St-Pierre, Martinique
Phone: 596/52-94-53
$20 to $30
St-Pierre
Eclectic

Nestled amid a tropical forest on the grounds of a 17th-century sugar plantation, this popular outdoor lunch spot serves a multicourse prix-fixe creole menu. After eating, wander through the estate where you might find Madeira hummingbirds and red partridges, green and blue lizards, and trapdoor spiders unique to Martinique. There's a river running through the property, with some of the island's oldest trees surrounding it. Saint-Pierre is a 15-minute drive away. AE, MC, V. No dinner.

L'Écrin Bleu
Rte. des Anse-d'Arlets, Le Diamant, Martinique
Phone: 596/76-45-95
$20 to $40
Le Diamant
Seafood

The breathtaking views of the sea and St. Lucia would be reason enough to visit this terrace eatery, but you hardly need more incentive than the delectable, affordable seafood. Choose your own lobster or try the salmon tartare, sea bream in spiced beurre blanc, swordfish with saffron, shrimp grilled with port, or conch en feuilleté (in puff pastry). The inexpensive lunch menu includes a steak or fish dish and a salad. Next door you will find a small, comfortable hotel that shares the restaurant's panoramic ocean view. MC, V.

La Belle Epoque
97 rte. de Didier, Fort-de-France, Martinique
Phone: 596/64-41-19
Over $40
Fort-de-France
Contemporary

High above Fort-de-France, in the wealthy suburb of Didier, is this restaurant in a white colonial house with beautiful tile floors. Crystal glasses, proper silver cutlery, and white linens adorn tables in the small antiques-filled dining room and on the garden-view terrace. The specialty is a delectable bisque served in the shell of an Atlantic king crab. The wine selection here is as good as any in Paris. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

La Canne á Sucre
Patio de Cluny, on road to Schoelcher, Lamentin, Martinique
Phone: 596/63-33-95
Over $40
Lamentin
Caribbean, Creole

Gerard Virginus moved to Martinique and opened this restaurant, which has the same name and excellent reputation as the one he ran on Guadeloupe years ago. Three tiny rooms seat about 40 people; so reservations are essential. Haute nouvelle creole cuisine is served at lunch and dinner. Sea urchin mousse, flying fish in chive sauce, and such desserts as crème brûlée with passion fruit are presented with artistry. The wine list is good and the ambience welcoming. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

La Dunette
Le Bourg, Ste-Anne, Martinique
Phone: 596/76-73-90
Over $20
Ste-Anne
Eclectic

An excellent spot for cocktails at sunset, this restaurant is in the small Ste-Anne hotel of the same name. Dinner is served on a plant-hung terrace overlooking the sea. Wrought-iron chairs and tables and bright blue awnings add to the refreshing garden atmosphere. Choices include fish soup, grilled fish or lobster, snapper stuffed with sea urchin, conch fricassee, and several colombos and tandooris. There's live music most evenings. AE, MC, V. Closed Sept.-Oct.

La Maison de l'Ilet Oscar
Baie de François, Le François, Martinique
Phone: 596/45-46-17
Over $40
Le François
Seafood

To get to this Robinson Crusoe bistro under the palms, you have to be fetched by boat (the trip is included in the price of the two basic seafood menus offered). The Creole house was won by the proprietor - who also owns the upscale Habitation Lagrange resort - in a poker game. Tables are laid out under palm trees at the water's edge. Before lunch, you'll probably be taken to La Baignoir de Joséphine, a gorgeous shallow pool with emerald-color water and white sand where, according to legend, Napoléon's ill-fated wife would swim. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.

La Marine
Pointe du Bout, Les Trois-Ilets, Martinique
Phone: 596/66-02-32
Under $40
Les Trois-Ilets
Eclectic

Beckoning red-and-white awnings and colorful murals give this breezy terrace a cheerful atmosphere. Views are of the yachts cruising in and out of their berths. The top choice is the seafood fricassee, while tasty pizzas and salads are the best budget options. AE, MC, V.

La Petite Auberge
Plage du Gros Raisins, Ste-Luce, Martinique
Phone: 596/62-59-70
Over $20
Ste-Luce
Contemporary

Fish cooked in basil sauce, conch flamed in aged rum, and magret with raspberries and port are just some of the specialties here. Two viviers, one for lobster, the other for z'habitants (the local name for crayfish), ensure these options are fresh. AE, MC, V.

La Plantation Pays Mêlé
Jeanne d'Arc section, Lamentin, Martinique
Phone: 596/50-16-08
Over $40
Lamentin
Eclectic

Don't be discouraged by the difficulty of finding this place, the last word in Martinique's best restaurants (it's on the grounds of the Martinique Cottages hotel). There's a vaguely Asian design to the bridge that arches over a lily pond and broad staircased entranceway into the restaurant's dark, wood-paneled interior. French chef Eric Voiron combines his classical French training with a passion for local creole traditions and ingredients. He enthusiastically creates such treats as mahimahi mousse with rare sea-urchin sauce, crayfish salad with orange nectar and wisps of ginger, or fish of the day grilled in a sauce of crushed lobster, butter, spices, and saffron. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

La Villa Créole
Anse-Mitan, Les Trois-Ilets, Martinique
Phone: 596/66-05-53
Over $30
Les Trois-Ilets
Eclectic

The food at this fine bistro, now in its 18th year, is superb; however, the real draw here is owner Guy Bruère-Dawson, a popular singer and guitarist who entertains during dinner. The setting is romantic, with tables laid out around two sides of a lush garden, and there's always an animated crowd. For starters try the salade de poisson cru mariné, a Tahitian version of sushi, and for the main course, crayfish fricassee. The café creole, coffee laced with aged rum and chantilly cream, is delicious. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.

Le Colibri
4 rue des Colibris, Morne-des-Esses, Martinique
Phone: 596/69-91-95
Over $30
Morne-des-Esses
Contemporary

Joel Palladino, a gregarious man who clearly loves his food, is continuing a family culinary tradition with this little spot in the island's northeastern reaches. Dishes - such as tarte aux lambis, a quiche made with conch paste, and buisson d'écrevisses, a pyramid of six giant freshwater crayfish decorated with flowers and accompanied by a tomato sauce seasoned with thyme, scallions, and tiny bits of crayfish - involve hours of work in the kitchen. Some of the traditional creole dishes, like stuffed pigeon and cochon au lait (suckling pig), are also offered here. The view, across the ocean, is spectacular: if you're lucky, you'll see a rainbow. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Le Fromager
On road to Fond St-Denis, St-Pierre, Martinique
Phone: 596/78-19-07
$20 to $40
St-Pierre
Eclectic

This beautiful restaurant is perched high above St-Pierre, with smashing views of the town's red roofs and the sea beyond from the breezy terrace. Dining inside is also pleasant, thanks to the gleaming ecru tile floors, white wicker, polished hardwood furnishings, lace tablecloths, old rum barrels, and potted plants. Superlative choices include crayfish colombo and duck fillet with pineapple. You may also opt for the chef's choice menu, which might include avocado vinaigrette and sole sauce pêcheur (in a creole sauce), as well as fruit or crème caramel. On Sunday a 150F lobster menu is accompanied by live Creole music. AE, MC, V.

Le Gourmet Dietetique
39 av. des Arawaks, Fort-de-France, Martinique
Phone: 596/75-36-75
Under $30
Fort-de-France
Vegetarian

This place is heaven for vegetarians and fish lovers. Although the health-conscious eatery changes its menu daily, selections may include vegetarian paella, cheese pizza, mixed steamed vegetables, wild rice, and various soups and salads. Grilled fish plates can be found as well. No credit cards. Closed weekends.

Le Marie Sainte
160 rue Victor Hugo, Fort-de-France, Martinique
Phone: 596/70-00-30
Under $40
Fort-de-France
Eclectic

Warm wood paneling, exposed beams, colorfully tiled tables, and bright napery create a homey ambience in this wildly popular lunchtime spot. It's worth waiting in the occasional line for the scrumptious daube des poissons (braised fish), crayfish, and banana beignets. The 75F prix-fixe menu gets you all that you need and then some. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner.

Le Mixed Grill
Km 0.6, rue Martin Luther King, Fort-de-France, Martinique
Phone: 596/63-66-83
Over $30
Fort-de-France
Steak

You'll need a road map to reach this bistro, which is at the bottom of a small one-way street. Despite the dismal exterior, the steaks are considered among the best in Fort-de-France. Selections include entrecôte bordelaise, prime rib, and T-bone steak, in addition to other popular cuts. AE, MC, V.

Le Ruisseau Restaurant
Bourg, Basse-Pointe, Martinique
Phone: 596/78-53-92
Over $30
Basse-Pointe
Caribbean, Creole

The restored 18th-century Leyritz Plantation inn has exquisite stone walls and a dramatic view of Mont Pelée. It is the pride of Martinique and the place that many cruise passengers head as soon as they disembark (just remember that it will take nearly the entire day to complete this trip). The restaurant here serves mostly creole fare - boudin, chicken with coconut, curried dishes, and steaks. The wonderful alfresco atmosphere does much to enhance the experience, and the staff is very helpful. Recent improvements have made it accessible to people with disabilities. Reservations essential. MC, V.

Le Verger
rue Case Nègre at pl. d'Armes, Lamentin, Martinique
Phone: 596/51-43-02
Over $30
Lamentin
Eclectic

An orchard is the setting for this green-and-white country house not far from the airport. But you don't come for the locale - the food is the draw. It is hugely popular for long business lunches. Try the perfect magret (duck breast) with green peppercorns or the grilled shrimp or lobster. Classic French wines round out an excellent meal. Follow the signs for La Trinité; the restaurant's entrance is on the right immediately after an Esso station. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner Mon.-Wed.

Les Passages du Vent
27 rue de l'Impératrice Joséphine, Les Trois-Ilets, Martinique
Phone: 596/68-42-11
Under $40
Les Trois-Ilets
Eclectic

In a pretty brick building on the main street, this bistro has art naïf, shuttered windows, and a wooden ceiling and floors that give it a warm character. There's a terrace for alfresco dining. The menu is simple - grills, chicken, pizza, and seafood - and the crowd is lively and young. There's jazz and blues on Saturday. MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Pizza Pépé
Rue Justin Roc, Le Diamant, Martinique
Phone: 596/76-40-49
Under $30
Le Diamant
Pizza

A casual retreat from the island's often expensive restaurants, Pépé's offers surprisingly good pizzas, pastas, and salads on an oceanfront outdoor patio. Try the pizza tahitienne, served with pineapple and crème fraîche, or the oceanique, covered with crab and onions. Refreshing cocktail and beer selections accompany the menu. MC, V. Closed Mon.

Poï et Virginie
Pl. de l'Eglise, Ste-Anne, Martinique
Phone: 596/76-72-22
Over $30
Ste-Anne
Eclectic

Facing the jetty in the center of Ste-Anne is this popular restaurant with bamboo walls, bright art naïf, ceiling fans, and fresh-cut flowers. It's had the honor of winning the Clé d'Or Gault Millau culinary award. The menu is extensive - from meats to fish - but the specialties are blaff, lobster, and crayfish fricassee. Other noteworthy dishes are a zesty seviche, smothered in garlic and lime, and crayfish in saffron. Lunchtime is busy, especially on weekends; get here soon after noon if you want a table with views of the bay and St. Lucia in the distance. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch Tues.

Pointe-Nord
On road to Grand' Rivière, Macouba, Martinique
Phone: 596/78-56-56
Over $20
Macouba
Seafood

If you're driving around the northern end of the island, this is one of the few watering holes in the area (it's busy on the weekend, so be sure you make a reservation). Built among the ruins of the Perpigna rum distillery, with fine views of Dominica in the distance, it serves lunch seven days a week. Seafood is the specialty here; try the poached thazar, a local fish, marinated with red beans, onions, and tomatoes. MC, V. No dinner.

Sapori d'Italia
Village Créole, Pointe du Bout, Les Trois-Ilets, Martinique
Phone: 596/66-15-85
$20 to $30
Les Trois-Ilets
Italian

This outdoor terrace restaurant is in a charming commercial village. The owner, who is from Milan, is confident that his Italian food is the most authentic on the island. For an antipasto consider the Valentina, which comes with mixed salami, bruschetta, cheese, and olives. Follow this with penne al salmone with smoked salmon and cream, the house lasagna, with ragù, Parmesan, and béchamel, or skip right to the dessert and order a salame della Nonna - a chocolate salami made with chocolate cake, Nutella, and whipped cream. AE, MC, V. Closed mid-Sept.-mid-Oct. Closed Wed.

Tamarin Plage Restaurant
Grande Anse, Anse-d'Arlets, Martinique
Phone: 596/68-71-30
Under $40
Anse-d'Arlets
Seafood

The lobster vivier (tank) in the middle of the room gives you a clue to the specialty here, but there are other recommendable offerings as well: fish soup and creole boudin starters and crayfish fricassee or octopus. The beachfront bar is a popular local hangout, and there's live music on Saturday night. MC, V.