5 Dudley
5 Dudley Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/399-6678
$12 to $32
Venice
Contemporary

The recitation of the menu by the server is just part of the elegant presentation here. Don't overdress for langoustines with caviar or baked brie with avocado and oven-dried tomatoes followed by salmon, or roast pesto-crusted chicken with garlic-mashed potatoes. For dessert there's a pear tart or chocolate bread pudding. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. No lunch.

All India Cafe
39 Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, CA, USA
Phone: 626/440-0309
Under $22
Pasadena
Indian

Old Town Pasadena may be the last place you'd expect to find an authentic Indian restaurant, but authentic this is. Ingredients are fresh, and flavors are bold but not overpowering. Crisp rice wafers jazzed up with chutneys, lime, and cilantro are a nice way to start a meal; follow this with the bhel puri, a savory puffed rice-and-potatoes dish. In addition to meat curries and chicken tikka masala (with spicy tomato yogurt sauce), there are many vegetarian selections. The prices are as palatable as the meals: a full lunch costs less than $6 and the combination dinners are also a good value. Weekends are usually busy, so make a reservation. AE, MC, V. City parking garage across the street.

Ammo
1155 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/871-2666
$12 to $32
Hollywood
Contemporary

Lunches at this hip new Hollywood eatery have included chili with cannellini beans and acorn squash; French lentil salad; a prosciutto, mozzarella, and arugula sandwich; and a really great burger. Dinners often start with a salad of pear, beets, hazelnuts, and creamy Pont l'Evêque, or tuna tartar with avocado, field greens, and a balsamic vinegar reduction? Follow that up with turkey meat loaf, grilled herbed chicken, or double-cut pork chop on horseradish-whipped potatoes. The tastes are fresh and the crisp minimal setting is cool but not chilly. AE, MC, V. No dinner Sun. Ample street parking.

Arnie Morton's of Chicago
435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/246-1501
Over $22
West Hollywood
Steak

The West Coast addition to this ever-expanding national chain brought joy and cholesterol to the hearts of Los Angeles meat lovers, many of whom claim that Morton's serves the best steaks in town. In addition to a 24-ounce porterhouse, a New York strip, and a double-cut filet mignon, there are giant veal and lamb chops, thick cuts of prime rib, swordfish steaks, and Maine lobsters at market prices (translation: these tasty crustaceans don't come cheap!). AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Art's Delicatessen
12224 Ventura Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 818/762-1221
Under $12
Studio City
Delicatessens

One of the best Jewish-style delicatessens in the city, this mecca serves mammoth corned beef and pastrami sandwiches. Matzo-ball soup and sweet-and-sour cabbage soup are specialties, and there is good chopped chicken liver. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Asia de Cuba
8440 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/848-6000
$22 to $32
West Hollywood
Contemporary

Can't get into the Sky Bar? Well, you can watch those who can from this hot spot that shares the Mondrian hotel's city-view patio. Prices are high but portions are definitely large enough to share. Some, like the carpaccio, are mostly lettuce, but the tuna tartare and the roast pork pancakes are more substantial. "Hacked" (pulled from the bone) lime chicken and yucca-crusted mahimahi are less peculiar than they sound. You'll also find here what are arguably the most beautiful people in town. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.

Authentic Cafe
7605 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/939-4626
Under $22
West Hollywood
Southwestern

Think Southwestern food has fallen off the map? Then head to this way hip, way fun café for proof that vibrant flavors are anything but dated. The Gen-X crowd can't get enough of the Santa Fe salad, wood-grilled chicken with mole, chicken casserole with corn-bread crust, and excellent vegetarian dishes. You'll have to wait at peak hours, but the reward is imaginative, high-quality eats at reasonable prices. Breakfast is served on weekends. Reservations not accepted. MC, V.

Barney Greengrass
Barneys, 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/777-5877
Under $22
Beverly Hills
Delicatessens

This haute deli on the fifth floor of Barneys has a high-class aesthetic: limestone floors, mahogany furniture, and a wall of windows. At tables on the outdoor terrace overlooking Beverly Hills and Hollywood, you can savor flawless smoked salmon, sturgeon, and whitefish flown in fresh from New York. The brisket of beef and various fresh salads are also worth sampling. This deli keeps store hours, closing Thursday at 8, Sunday at 6, and every other day at 7. AE, MC, V. Valet parking.

Beaurivage
26025 Pacific Coast Hwy., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/456-5733
Over $12
Malibu
French

One of the few Malibu restaurants with a view of the beach and ocean, this romantic Mediterranean villa-style dining room has copper domes and lush landscaping. The menu features roast duck breast served with a wild-cherry sauce, Portobello mushrooms served atop polenta with a lemon-ginger sauce, pasta with shellfish, mussel soup, and filet mignon with a mushroom-marsala sauce. A Sunday brunch is served. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Mon.-Sat. Parking lot.

Bistro 45
45 S. Mentor Ave., Pasadena, CA, USA
Phone: 626/795-2478
$22 to $32
Pasadena
French

As stylish and sophisticated as any Westside hot spot, Bistro 45 blends rustic French cooking - cassoulet, bouillabaisse, caramelized apple tart - with more modern and fanciful California hybrids, such as seared ahi tuna with black and white sesame crust. Add a superb wine list and smart service, and you've got a place that can make almost everyone happy. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon., except for wine-maker dinner 4th Mon. of month. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Bombay Cafe
12021 Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/473-3388
Under $22
West Los Angeles
Indian

Devoted fans of this popular Indian dining spot swear by the chili-laden lamb frankies (sausages), sev puri (little wafers topped with onions, potatoes, and chutneys), and other zesty dishes. MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch weekends.

Border Grill
1445 4th St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/451-1655
$12 to $32
Santa Monica
Mexican

Hipsters love this loud, trendy eating hall designed by minimalist architect Josh Schweitzer and owned by the talented team of Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. It's perhaps the most eclectic Mexican restaurant in L.A., with a menu ranging from grilled-fish tacos to vinegar-and-pepper-grilled turkey to daily ceviche specials. The margaritas are top-notch. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Mon.

Boxer
7615 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/932-6178
$12 to $32
West Hollywood
Contemporary

This small, chic restaurant on Beverly Boulevard continues to satisfy its faithful following under its young chef, Daniel Wright, who presents seasonal menus. Fall offerings have included sautéed glass noodles with tiger shrimp; duck confit; striped bass with soy cream sauce; and roasted winter vegetables. Since there is no wine license, you can buy your own bottle from the owner's well-stocked wine shop next door or bring your own; there is no corkage fee. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. Valet parking.

Broadway Deli
1457 3rd St. Promenade, Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/451-0616
Under $22
Santa Monica
American/Casual

This joint venture of Michel Richard and Bruce Marder is a cross between a European brasserie and an upscale diner. Whatever you feel like eating, you'll probably find it on the menu - a platter of assorted smoked fish or Caesar salad, shepherd's pie, carpaccio, or broiled salmon with creamed spinach. Homey side dishes such as corn muffins, mashed potatoes with mushroom gravy, and potato pancakes round out the offerings. Breads are baked fresh, and there's a kids' menu. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Valet parking weekends and evenings.

Ca' del Sole
4100 Cahuenga Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 818/985-4669
Under $22
North Hollywood
Italian

With antique wood hutches, copper moldings, and a fireplace, this studio-area establishment draws showbiz and nonshowbiz types in search of such classics as sautéed fresh rock shrimp in a spicy garlic-tomato sauce; citrus-marinated chicken wings braised with Italian bacon, rosemary, and sage; radicchio and arugula salad tossed in a creamy Venetian dressing; and linguine with scallops and Manila clams. Finish up with a giant hunk of Italian-style cheesecake covered with marinated strawberries. Reservations essential on weekends. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Valet parking.

Ca'Brea
346 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/938-2863
Under $22
West Hollywood
Italian

Chef Antonio Tommasi turns out lamb chops with black-truffle and mustard sauce, whole boneless chicken marinated and grilled with herbs, and a very popular osso buco. Starters make the meal - try baked goat cheese wrapped in pancetta and served atop a mound of spinach. Daily specials include soup, salad, pasta, and fish dishes. Terra-cotta or mustard-color walls combined with dark wood paneling give the lively main room a warm Venetian look, and the cozy loft is ideal for those seeking privacy. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch weekends.

Cadillac Cafe
359 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/657-6591
Under $22
West Hollywood
American/Casual

This futuristic, Jetsons-inspired eatery is a modestly priced, fun alternative to the food chains in nearby Beverly Center. Goofy-sounding but good-tasting dishes such as Original Turkey Sundae and Burnt Meatloaf Marinara please children as well as adults. There are also more mainstream selections like the smoked salmon-and-brie sandwich, grilled ahi tuna salad Niçoise, and angel hair pasta with shrimp. Weekend breakfasts include a bacon-eggs-and-cheese pasta. AE, MC, V.

Cafe Bizou
14016 Ventura Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 818/788-3536
$12 to $22
Sherman Oaks
Contemporary

Crisp and clean, with white walls, black-and-white photos, and plain wooden chairs, Cafe Bizou is the place for fine California-French bistro fare at bargain prices in Sherman Oaks. Entrée sauces are classic, soups are rich (try the luscious potato-leek), and combinations are creative. If it's on the menu, order the homemade ravioli appetizer, stuffed with lobster and salmon puree; a winning entrée is the sesame-seed-coated salmon on potato-pancake triangles. For dessert, the caramelized tarte Tatin is tops. Those who bring their own bottle pay a mere $2 corkage fee. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Valet parking.

Café des Artistes
1534 McCadden Pl., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/469-7300
$12 to $22
Hollywood
French

New Hollywood is tasting a lot like old Paris. A California bungalow has been turned into a cozy bistro where smart film and music folk flock. They can start off with mussels Provençal, asparagus and fennel salad, or even a major seafood platter (oysters, clams, crab, shrimp, periwinkles), then go on to monkfish tagine with olives, fennel, and lemon confit followed by a cheese plate or brioche pudding, chocolate mousse, or lemon sorbet with vodka. All aided by a modest but well-selected wine list. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Café Pinot
700 W. 5th St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 213/239-6500
$12 to $32
Downtown
French

Joachim and Christine Splichal, proprietors of Patina and a growing number of Pinot bistros, have succeeded with this warm, convivial restaurant housed in a contemporary pavilion in the garden of the Los Angeles Central Library. If the weather is fine, you can eat outside on the terrace under one of the old olive trees. The menu is rooted in traditional French bistro standards - steak frîtes, roast chicken coated with three mustards, braised lamb shank - but it also delivers some low-fat dishes, fresh fish, and a few worthy pastas. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Self and valet parking.

Cajo
39 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, CA, USA
Phone: 626/396-1800
Over $22
Pasadena
Contemporary

Cajo is in the Pasadena Playhouse compound. It's a grand setting for such modern tastes as seared foie gras on pear compote, followed by, say, roasted grouper with miso lemon sauce or braised pork with garlic gnocchi. Seasonal specials have included Maine sea scallops with butternut squash and venison loin with huckleberry port sauce. A banana Napoleon or warm chocolate-chip cake make an ideal finish. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.-Thurs.

California Pizza Kitchen
207 S. Beverly Dr., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/275-1101
Under $12
Beverly Hills
Pizza

This is the original branch of a nationwide chain specializing in wood-fired pizza and a wide, esoteric choice of pizza toppings - from hoisin duck with Portobello mushrooms to a tandoori pie, with or without cheese. Big chopped salads round out the menu. There's friendly counter service by the open kitchen, or take a seat in the clean and pleasingly modern dining room. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Free parking in lot.

Campanile
624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/938-1447
Over $22
West Hollywood
Contemporary

In this stylish, high-ceilinged restaurant that was once Charlie Chaplin's office complex, Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton (also the force behind the adjacent La Brea Bakery) blend robust Mediterranean flavors with those of homey Americana. Distinguished appetizers may include celery-root soup with pesto, lobster risotto, and roasted black mussels with Meyer lemon aïoli. Among the entrées are bourride of snapper and Manila clams, and loin of venison with quince puree. You'll find some of the best desserts anywhere - try the light-as-a-feather bitter-almond panna cotta (an Italian variation on caramel custard), or a garden-fresh strawberry crisp. Weekend brunch on the enclosed patio with a vintage fountain should not be missed. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun. Valet parking.

Canter's
419 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/651-2030
Under $12
West Hollywood
Delicatessens

This granddaddy of Los Angeles delicatessens (it opened in 1928) pickles its own corned-beef pastrami and has its own in-house bakery. Next door is the Kibitz Room, where there's live music every night. Reservations not accepted. MC, V. Parking in lot.

Cava
8384 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/658-8898
$12 to $22
West Hollywood
Spanish

This two-level tapas bar and restaurant is in the Beverly Plaza Hotel, not far from the Farmers Market. The artsy dining room has larger-than-life roses painted on the walls, and the atmosphere is a bit noisy but lots of fun. You can graze on tapas such as baked artichoke topped with bread crumbs and tomato, or a fluffy potato omelet served with crème fraîche. Those with bigger appetites can try a paella or aged New York steak with a traditional Argentine steak sauce. Wash it all down with a glass or three of sangria. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

Cha Cha Cha
656 N. Virgil Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/664-7723
$12 to $22
Los Feliz/Silver Lake
Caribbean

Because it's off the beaten path, Cha Cha Cha attracts a discerning, eclectic crowd. It's hip yet not pretentious or overly trendy; a nice touch is the giant map that pinpoints the restaurant's Caribbean influences. You can sit indoors in a cozy room or on the enclosed tropical-à-la-Carmen-Miranda patio. Standard options are Jamaican jerk chicken, swordfish brochette, fried plantain chips, pork chops with apricot salsa, and assorted flans. Sangria is the drink of choice. Cha Cha Cha is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

Chan Dara
310 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/467-1052
Under $12
Hollywood
Thai

A rock 'n' roll and showbiz crowd frequents this casual eatery, which occupies an old Spanish house in a block of doctors' offices near Paramount Pictures. Try any of the noodle dishes, especially those with crab and shrimp. Also on the extensive menu are satay (skewered meats with a tangy peanut sauce); Thai barbecued chicken, pork, or beef; and deep-fried whole catfish. You can dine alfresco on the patio, or just have dessert there (the mango tart is especially good). AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Chinois on Main
2709 Main St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/392-9025
Over $22
Santa Monica
Contemporary

A once-revolutionary outpost in Wolfgang Puck's repertoire, this is still one of L.A.'s most crowded restaurants - and one of the noisiest. Puck's wife and partner, Barbara Lazaroff, designed the jazzy interior, which is just as loud as the clientele. The happy marriage of Asian and French cuisines yields seasonal dishes such as grilled Mongolian lamb chops with cilantro vinaigrette and wok-fried vegetables, Shanghai lobster with spicy ginger-curry sauce, and Cantonese duck with fresh plum sauce. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.-Tues. Valet parking.

Cicada
617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/655-5559
$12 to $32
Downtown
Italian

Cicada occupies the ground floor of a 1928 architectural landmark, the art deco Oviatt Building: the glass doors are Lalique, carved wood interior columns rise two-stories, and from the balcony, a glamorous bar overlooks the spacious dining room. "Modern Italian" best describes the menu: marinated tuna with mint and white beans; smoked duck ravioli; sautéed Chilean sea bass with a roasted pepper beurre blanc, and grilled veal chop with braised endive. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Cinnabar
933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, CA, USA
Phone: 818/551-1155
$12 to $32
Glendale
Contemporary

Glendale's revitalized downtown has plenty of major department stores and movie complexes, but few distinguished restaurants. Enter Cinnabar, a hip, contemporary dining room occupying the double-height ground floor of an early 1930s art deco commercial building. At the elaborate, vintage bar, you half expect to find Sidney Greenstreet and Humphrey Bogart sharing secrets over a Singapore Sling. But the menu is by no means vintage: charbroiled ostrich tenderloin, spicy lemongrass bouillabaisse, and roasted halibut with kale and asparagus are a few of the of-the-moment selections. D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch weekends.

Citrus
6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/857-0034
Over $12
Hollywood
Contemporary

Seated under one of the large umbrellas in Citrus's spacious, landscaped interior patio, you can see Melrose Avenue on one side and a glass-walled kitchen on the other. Chef Michel Richard has opened restaurants elsewhere, but Citrus has remained his hottest ticket, especially within the entertainment industry. Lunch begins on the light side, with starters such as artichoke terrine or ahi tuna carpaccio, followed by sautéed Chilean sea bass with black chanterelle crust or chicken ravioli with Parmesan sauce. The dinner menu has featured crab cakes with tomato-mustard sauce and chicken in a porcini crust. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Ciudad
445 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 213/486-5171
$12 to $32
Downtown
Latin

In an interior (by architect Josh Schweitzer) that makes you feel as if you're lounging in Rio and not in a downtown office building, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger have invented their own new wave, Central- and South American-inspired cooking. Among the entradas (starters), imagine the tastes of pasteles boriqua (green plantain tamales jazzed with pork, olives, and raisins). Platos principales (main courses) range from lamb shank with baby artichokes to chicken roasted Cuban-style with sweet garlic. Ciudad is a lunchtime hangout, as well as a favorite for after-work dinners and pre-theater suppers, so if you've got a curtain to catch, be sure to reserve a table. AE, MC, V. Valet and self parking.

Da Pasquale
9749 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/859-3884
Under $22
Beverly Hills
Italian

An affordable meal is hard to find here in the land of Gucci and Bijan, which is one reason to visit Da Pasquale. An even better reason is the pizza topped with ingredients like fresh tomato, garlic, and basil or three cheeses and prosciutto. The skillful kitchen staff also does a good job with standards such as antipasti, pastas, and roast chicken. Walls of glass face the street, giving the talent-agency regulars a chance to check out the scene. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Free parking after 6 PM.

Derek's Bistro
181- 185 E. Glenarm St., Pasadena, CA, USA
Phone: 626/799-5252
$22 to $32
Pasadena
Contemporary

This casual but elegant restaurant brought Pasadena into the '90s with smart California cuisine. Dinner might start with seared foie gras with caramelized mango or a scallop and avocado salad followed by grilled salmon served with polenta and roasted bell peppers, or osso buco with braised vegetables. Pear-almond upside-down cake and bread pudding with a ginger créme anglaise might be among the imaginative desserts. Dine inside or on the patio. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

The Dining Room at the Regent Beverly Wilshire
9500 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/275-5200
Over $22
Beverly Hills
Contemporary

Businesspeople and locals use this formal but comfortable room for elegant breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. Grilled swordfish with barbecued shrimp sometimes appears on the prix-fixe lunch menu, which generally runs about $28; other fine choices are Chilean sea bass with bok choy and lemongrass, and grilled Angus steak with crispy fries. The dinner menu may include warm fig-and-wild mushroom salad, roasted foie gras with sun-dried cherry sauce, and Maine lobster with mascarpone-and-potato gnocchi. À la carte choices are also available. Jacket required. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch or dinner Sun. Valet parking.

Dominick's
8715 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/652-7272
$12 to $32
West Hollywood
American

This redo of a longtime Hollywood watering hole is still strong on high-quality meat and potatoes, including Black Angus filet mignon and grilled lamb chops. But now they're balanced by fish with vegetables, including grilled ahi tuna with baby bok choy and sautéed Chilean sea bass with vegetable couscous. The largely showbiz clientele tends toward the young agent and story development crowd. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Drago
2628 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/828-1585
$12 to $32
Santa Monica
Italian

Celestino Drago's home-style fare, though pricey, is carefully prepared and attentively served in stark designer surroundings. White walls and white linen-covered tables line both sides of a floating service station dressed up with a massive fresh-flower arrangement. Sample Drago's pappardelle with pheasant ragout, squid-ink risotto, or ostrich breast with red-cherry sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

East India Grill
345 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/936-8844
Under $12
Hollywood
Indian

With its combination of high-tech sheet metal decor and low-tech tandoori oven this popular café serves traditional, zesty Indian food with a California edge. Traditional dishes such as green-coconut and tomato-based curries and sagwalas (spinach dishes) are just as well prepared as the more imaginative novelties - tandoori chicken salad, mango ribs, and garlic-basil nan, to name just a few. You can eat indoors or pull up a table on the patio. AE, MC, V. Free garage parking.

Ed's Coffee Shop
460 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/659-8625
Under $12
West Hollywood
American/Casual

The coffee shop of choice for decorators and clients from the nearby Pacific Design Center, Ed's (open at 7 AM) serves delicious omelets, huevos rancheros, egg salad, stuffed peppers, meat loaf, and homemade pies. It's as homey as can be, which partially explains why almost all the customers are regulars. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. No dinner.

El Cholo
1121 S. Western Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/734-2773
$12 to $22
Hollywood
Mexican

Part of a chain, this south Hollywood landmark has been packing 'em in since the '20s. A hand-painted adobe ceiling and outdoor patio with a fountain create a partylike atmosphere - it's the kind of place where you order margaritas and all kinds of tacos, some of which you make yourself. L.A.-Mex standards are served - chicken enchiladas, carnitas (shredded fried pork), and, from July through October, green-corn tamales. Portions are large and prices reasonable. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet and meter parking.

Encounter
Los Angeles International Airport, 209 World Way, Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/215-5151
$12 to $32
LAX
Eclectic

In 1961 one of Los Angeles' first modern icons - the Theme Building - opened in the very center of Los Angeles International Airport. With vistas stretching from the ocean to the mountains, it now houses Encounter, whose intergalactic atmosphere was created by designers from Walt Disney Imagineering and includes a crater-shape bar that specializes in martinis. Appetizers include tuna sashimi with Japanese cucumber salad. For entrées, there's grilled breast of chicken with Gorgonzola and prosciutto, and horseradish-crusted salmon. Soups and elegant salads are available for travelers with time constraints, and modest lunch prices make this an unexpected midday value. Be sure to book ahead if you want one of the coveted window tables. AE, MC, V.

Fenix
8358 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/848-6677
Over $22
West Hollywood
Contemporary

You'll find abundant art deco splendor at the Argyle Hotel's culinary outpost on the Sunset Strip. The bilevel dining room-bar, accented in dark purple and brushed gold, has plush banquettes, a grand piano, and a romantic city view. Chef Gaetan Crosier starts you off with the likes of lobster tortellini or ahi tuna in rice paper and then moves on to tandoori-spiced Chilean sea bass or braised lamb shank with polenta. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

Fred 62
1850 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/667-0062
$12 to $22
Los Feliz/Silver Lake
Eclectic

Fred Eric - a darling of the it-doesn't-matter-what-you-wear-so-long-as-it's-black crowd - opened this 24-hour luncheonette that caters to neighborhood locals and clubgoers. "Cream of what you want soup" and "punk tarts" may be too cutesy for some, but if you can get past the scene factor you're bound to find something you like on the menu, which includes everything from tofu scrambles to chicken potpie to oxtail. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gladstone's 4 Fish
17300 Pacific Coast Hwy. , at Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/454-3474
$22 to $32
Pacific Palisades
American/Casual

Gladstone's is one of the most popular restaurants along the Southern California coast; its demand has even spawned a sister restaurant in Universal Studios' CityWalk, whose lack of a beachfront setting makes it far less attractive. The food is notable mostly for its Brobdingnagian portions: giant bowls of crab chowder, mounds of steamed clams, heaps of barbecued ribs, and the famous mile-high chocolate cake, which can easily feed a small regiment. The real reason to visit Gladstone's is the glorious vista of sea, sky, and beach. The good cheer of the diners and staff is infectious, too. Breakfast is served on weekends. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

Granita
23725 W. Malibu Rd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/456-0488
$12 to $32
Malibu
Contemporary

Wolfgang Puck's famed Granita is a glamourous - some call it garish - fantasy world of handmade tiles embedded with seashells, blown-glass lighting fixtures, and etched-glass panels with wavy edges, and its beachside location adds to the marine mood. Fitting, then, that chef Jennifer Naylor's menu favors seafood, including polenta crepes with Maine lobster and bigeye with spicy miso glaze. She has also prepared sautéed foie gras with spiced Asian pears, beef carpaccio with white truffles, and roasted Cantonese duck with a pomegranate-plum glaze. Brunch is served on weekends. Reservations essential. D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekdays.

Grill on the Alley
9560 Dayton Way, Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/276-0615
Over $12
Beverly Hills
American

Beverly Hills restaurants can take you many places: from Tuscany to Polynesia. In this case, it's to a traditional San Francisco-style grill with dark-wood paneling and brass trim. This fashionable place for power-lunching features tasty, simple American fare, including chicken potpies, crab cakes, creamy Cobb salad, and homemade rice pudding, as well as high-quality steaks and seafood. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun. Valet parking evenings.

Guelaguetza
3337½ W. 8 St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 213/427-0601
Under $22
Hollywood
Mexican

This seek-it-out spot with lively musical accompaniment serves the complex, lively, yet not spicy cooking of one of Mexico's most respected culinary regions, Oaxaca. The standouts are the red, yellow, and brown moles whose intense flavors come from intricate combinations of nuts, seeds, spices, chilies, and bitter chocolate. But be sure to check out barbecued-goat tacos or pizzalike clayudas topped with white cheese and tasajo (dried beef), or cecino chorizo (chili-marinated pork sausage). MC, V.

Gumbo Pot
Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/933-0358
Under $12
West Hollywood
Cajun/Creole

While not exactly "down by the levee," this outdoor Cajun/Creole café in the Farmers Market does serve a mean smoky and spicy gumbo rich in shrimp and chicken. It's also the place for muffulettas (hero sandwiches), corn-battered shrimp, jambalaya, and beignets (fried dough dusted with powdered sugar). Reservations not accepted. MC, V.

Harry's Bar and American Grill
2020 Ave. of the Stars, Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/277-2333
$12 to $32
Century City
Italian

The dark wood-paneled maritime decor and the selection of dishes - paper-thin carpaccio, grigliata mista di pesce (mixed seafood grill), and tagliatellini con luganega (sausage) - are intended to evoke Harry's Bar in Venice, but the check will be far lower than in Italy. The restaurant is on the promenade level of the Century City office complex. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Hollywood Canteen
1006 Seward St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/465-0961
Under $22
Hollywood
American/Casual

In the heart of working Hollywood, amidst soundstages, recording studios, and lighting companies, this handsome "diner" with a secluded back patio functions as a canteen for executives, actors, and technicians, who come here for simple but upscale grub: organic field-green salads, swordfish sandwiches, burgers, risotto with asparagus and shrimp, and various soups. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Valet parking.

Hotel Bel-Air
701 Stone Canyon Rd., Los Angeles, CA 90077, USA
Phone: 310/472-1211 or 800/648-4097
Fax: 310/476-5890
Over $22
Bel-Air
Contemporary

Nestled in the midst of a luxuriant canyon, the restaurant in the Hotel Bel-Air spills out into a romantic country garden with gurgling fountains and a swan lake. Chef Thomas Hanson charms diners with such seasonal appetizers as pan-seared foie gras with rhubarb-star anise compote and a roasted beet-and-goat cheese gâteau, which may be followed by Angus beef with Stilton, pan-roasted sea bass with fennel, or salmon with a parsley-horseradish crust. The Hotel Bel-Air also hosts one of the best high teas in town. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

The House
5750 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/462-4687
$12 to $32
Hollywood
Contemporary

At this smart yet homey American restaurant, chef Scooter Kanfer brings a deft hand to such dishes as herbed pâté with olives and caper berries, apple-stuffed pork, and roasted black cod with Brussels sprouts and bacon. Her "baked hot chocolates," an intensely rich chocolate pudding, is one of the best desserts anywhere. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. Small parking lot.

Il Fornaio Cucina Italiana
301 N. Beverly Dr., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/550-8330
$12 to $32
Beverly Hills
Italian

What started as a bakery-café has been transformed into one of the best trattorias in California, with cream-color walls and columns, halogen lights, white linens, and a gleaming open kitchen. From the huge brass-and-stainless-steel rotisserie come garlic-and-rosemary duck, rotisserie-roasted chicken with rosemary, and juicy rabbit. Nearby, cooks paddle pizzas and calzones in and out of the oak-wood-burning oven. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

Ita-Cho
7311 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/938-9009
$12 to $22
Hollywood
Japanese

Installed in a large, minimalist space, Ita-Cho is a chic destination. Specializing in koryori-ya, the Japanese pub cuisine that features delicately cooked dishes, the small dining room also serves flawless sashimi (but no sushi). Also try tender pork simmered in sake and soy for two days, lightly fried tofu cubes in soy-ginger-scallion sauce, and grilled yellowtail collar. The sake list is excellent. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. Valet parking.

Jack Sprat's Grill
10668 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/837-6662
Under $22
West Los Angeles
Contemporary

In the spirit of its namesake nursery rhyme, Jack Sprat's is as spare in style (lots of wood and a concrete floor) as it is in calories. Nevertheless, virtue tastes like vice, thanks to inventive light sauces and sassy salsas. Boneless, skinless chicken breasts are perked up with mango-kiwi-mint salsa, and grilled vegetables go well with Dijon mustard sauce or your choice of salsas. Other guiltless treats include dynamite salads, pita wraps, hummus, and air fries (french fries sans grease). Service could be better. AE, MC, V. No lunch Sun. Self parking.

James' Beach
60 N. Venice Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/823-5396
$12 to $32
Venice
American

This coastal hot spot seems just right for a seaside lunch or supper. Daily specials include meat loaf, chicken potpie, crawfish etoufée, and fried chicken. Regular menu items range from traditional Southern California sand dabs with brown butter to seafood stew to rack of lamb with chili-mashed potatoes. If you're so inclined, sip your dessert wine between shots at the billiard table in a bungalow behind the patio. It's all trés L.A. and it's open until 1 AM Thursday-Saturday. AE, MC, V. No lunch Mon. or Tues. Valet parking.

JiRaffe
502 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/917-6671
$12 to $32
Santa Monica
Contemporary

Nothing about this upmarket bistro is as cute as its name: a contraction of the two chef-owners' names. The gleaming, wood-paneled, two-story dining room with ceiling-high windows is a handsome setting, and the menu is just as tasteful. Seasonal appetizers like goat cheese, leek, and roasted-tomato ravioli, or a roasted-beet salad with caramelized walnuts and dried bing cherries, are an excellent way to kick off a main dish of roasted Chilean sea bass with a ragout of sweet corn, spring peas, and pearl onions. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Joe's Restaurant
1023 Abbott Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/399-5811
$12 to $22
Venice
Contemporary

Joe Miller has created a neighborhood restaurant so definitive that it attracts diners from miles away. His French-influenced California cooking is known for putting fresh ingredients to imaginative uses. Start with pistachio-crusted goat cheese with roasted pears and continue with lobster with black pasta and braised carrots. For dessert, the strawberry granité is not to be missed. The wine list is well thought out and lunch is a bargain. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

JoeJoe's
13355 Ventura Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 818/990-8280
$12 to $32
Sherman Oaks
Contemporary

This spin-off of Joe's in Venice follows the current trend - plain decor, high noise levels, and low prices. (The food is cooked with a level of skill that could demand twice the price elsewhere - no lunch entrée is over $10.) Start with meaty grilled shiitakes with smoked mozzarella, or seared scallops with applewood-smoked bacon and move on to pistachio-crusted halibut or juicy roast beef with tangy balsamic vinegar sauce, crispy onions, and spinach. To end, try the zippy lemon tart. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch Sat. Valet parking.

Joss
9255 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/276-1886
Over $12
Beverly Hills
Chinese

Soaring ceilings, hanging halogen lighting, exposed ducts, and chic spareness are softened by upholstered chairs and a tree-lined patio at this high-end Chinese restaurant popular with Beverly Hills types. Try the lemon-mustard seafood salad, whole catfish in black bean sauce, or Peking scallops. The sidewalk tables are great for a lunchtime rendezvous. Service can be haughty and prices high. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Jozu
8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/655-5600
$12 to $32
West Hollywood
Contemporary

The Japanese name, which means excellent, and Japanese-theme decor hint at the bias of executive chef Preech Narkthong's Cal-Asian menu. Start with crisp Sonoma quail with tangerine glaze or deep-fried Ipswich clams. As an entrée, you might try roasted Chilean sea bass with ponzu sauce (with soy, vinegar, sake, and bonito flakes) and cabbage salad, or grilled marinated chicken with yellow curry and pad thai noodles. The Pacific Rim wine list is augmented by cognacs and vintage ports. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch. Valet parking.

JR Seafood
11901 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/268-2463
Under $22
West Los Angeles
Chinese

Westsiders who once had to drive to Monterey Beach to get a good plate of shrimp have made this place a hit. The Hong Kong-style restaurant serves all the Chinese seafood-house standards - seafood soup, rock cod in garlic sauce, kung paog scallops, dishes that are plentiful in the San Gabriel Valley but scarce in these parts. Service can be slow, but as long as the shrimp keeps coming, no one seems to mind. MC, V. Free parking.

The Kitchen
4348 Fountain Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/664-3663
Under $22
Los Feliz/Silver Lake
Contemporary

Southwest of Silver Lake (but inspired by the East Village), The Kitchen's squeaky clean, grunge-gallery look draws on the area's young, newly kidded, or gay demographic. All come here for first-rate plain cooking at modest prices. It's a draw between the impeccable fish-and-chips and the pork chops with an amazing cranberry-ancho chili-anise seed sauce. Or the meat loaf with "smashed" root vegetables and the whole lamb shank on roasted garlic-mashed potatoes. It's open late: 1 AM weeknights, 3 AM weekends. Club kids take note! AE, MC, V. Parking lot.

L'Orangerie
903 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/652-9770
Over $32
West Hollywood
French

Elegant French Mediterranean cuisine is served in this rococo dining room, complete with white flower arrangements and paintings depicting European castles. The elaborate setting, ultra-attentive service, and cost make this a place for special occasions. Specialties include coddled eggs (simmered until creamy) served in the shell and topped with sevruga caviar, whole duck with coffee beans, John Dory with roasted figs, rack of lamb with fall vegetables, and a rich apple tart accompanied by a jug of double cream. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch. Valet parking.

La Cabañita
3447 N. Verdugo Rd., Glendale, CA, USA
Phone: 818/957-2711
Under $22
Glendale
Mexican

Pretend you've never had Mexican cooking before and savor the experience of fresh, thick handmade tortillas either wrapped around picadillo (ground beef with raisins, almonds, and cinnamon) or on top of a ramekin of roasted mild poblano chilies with sour cream and black beans, then go on to chuletas (fall-off-the-bone tender pork) in a delicate pasilla chili sauce. This is as far from the rice and beans routine as you can get, and the simple setting adorned with Mexican fabrics and low prices will make you feel very comfortable. AE, MC, V.

La Cachette
10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/470-4992
$12 to $32
Century City
French

Owner-chef Jean-François Meteigner cooked in some of France's finest restaurants before coming to L.A., where he developed a following at L'Orangerie and Cicada. At his own establishment, he combines traditional French fare - Provençal bouillabaisse, rack of lamb with garlic-tarragon jus - with a lighter, more modern cuisine, including Alaskan butterfish with Cajun spices and venison with cabernet-and-blueberry sauce. L.A.'s fortysomething crowd dresses up to see and be seen at this flower-filled restaurant hidden on an undistinguished stretch of Little Santa Monica Boulevard. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

La Serenata Gourmet
10924 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/441-9667
Under $22
West Los Angeles
Mexican

This Westside branch of the East Los Angeles original can be uncomfortable, but the restaurant scores points for its flavorful Mexican cuisine. Moles and pork dishes are delicious, but seafood is the real star - there are chubby gorditas (cornmeal pockets stuffed with shrimp), juicy fish enchiladas, a flavorful ceviche, and fresh fish with various salsas. Even the chips are noteworthy. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, MC, V. Valet parking.

Lake Spring Cuisine
219 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, CA, USA
Phone: 626/280-3571
Under $12
Monterey Park
Chinese

Of the countless good Chinese restaurants in the south San Gabriel Valley, Lake Spring is one of the best. Unlike those of its more hectic counterparts, the dining room is subdued and relatively plush, filled with serious food-lovers intent on their meals. Regulars come for the tender, slow-cooked pork rump; grass-green jade shrimp; cured pork with bamboo-shoot casserole; and many more dishes infused with the rich, complex flavors of Shanghai. MC, V. Self parking.

Lavande
Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/576-3181
Over $22
Santa Monica
Contemporary

Seated in this huge, peach-color dining room, gazing through stylized Palladian windows at expansive ocean views, it's not a stretch to imagine yourself in a grand seaside hotel in Cannes. Chef Jeffrey Neimer conjures robust Provençal cuisine: crayfish tartlets, classic fish soup Provençal with garlic croutons and rouille, and roasted Chilean sea bass with artichokes. For dessert, the vacherin cheese with lavender ice cream and strawberries is a must. And the Sunday Provençal brunch is definitely worth checking out. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun. Valet parking.

Le Carafe
8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/655-8880
$22 to $32
West Hollywood
French

The art nouveau dining room, resplendent with mirrors and polished woodwork, is modeled after the famous 1920s Parisian bistro Vagenende; its comfortable, cozy booths make it ideal for a swank romantic rendezvous. Chef Maurice Constantin has added European items that approximate a French bistro. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. Valet parking.

Le Colonial
8783 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/289-0660
$12 to $32
West Hollywood
Vietnamese

A bright blue neon sign makes this high-fashion restaurant hard to miss. The inside looks prewar Saigon, with whirling fans hanging from a burgundy pressed-tin ceiling, shuttered windows, and floors done in green-trimmed antique tiles. Like the original Le Colonial in Manhattan, this is a bilevel restaurant with an opulent bar upstairs and a seductive dining room below that serves dishes such as roasted chicken with lemongrass; fried spring rolls packed with pork, mushrooms, and shrimp; and shredded chicken and cabbage doused in lime juice. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Le Dôme
8720 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/659-6919
Over $22
West Hollywood
French

This fancy show- and music-biz bistro mixes French country dishes and hearty American fare: escargots Burgundy-style (served with garlic, shallots, and parsley), coq au vin, and steamed pig's knuckle appeal to Francophiles, and center-cut pork chops and grilled Sonoma lamb chops satisfy patriots. Desserts include chocolate pecan pie and a rich St. Honoré. The look is art deco and the crowd looks as if it favors the music business. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Valet parking.

Les Deux Cafés
1683 Las Palmas Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/465-0509
Under $32
Hollywood
French

One of the telltale signs of the Hollywood renaissance is Les Deux Cafés, a handsomely refitted 1904 house with a hidden dining terrace and an even more intimate herb garden unexpectedly set in a parking lot behind a barbed-wire-topped wall. Chef James Grey appeals to easily bored tastes with inventions such as lobster-and-tabbouleh salad, and a salad of beets, spinach, and horseradish; he also turns out a lovely trout in hazelnut brown butter; and breast of duck with figs. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends. Valet parking.

Lilly's French Café & Bar
1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/314-0004
$12 to $22
Venice
French

Lilly's celebrates the robust flavors of French regional and bistro cooking as interpreted by chef Catherine Dimanche. Start with flamiche (a northern French goat cheese and leek tart) or that bistro favorite, escargots with garlic-herb butter. Then move on to duck breast with wild cherry sauce or herbes-de-Provence. Finish with a Paris-Brest puff pastry (filled with hazelnut custard) or a true tarte au citron (lemon tart). The daily prix-fixe lunch is a great value: soup or salad plus a glamorous sandwich or omelet for $10. AE, MC, V. Valet parking.

Locanda Veneta
8638 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/274-1893
Under $22
West Hollywood
Italian

This upmarket Italian trattoria has an open kitchen that cooks up specialties such as flattened grilled chicken, veal chops, linguine with clams, lobster ravioli with saffron sauce, and an unusual apple tart with polenta crust and caramel sauce. The walls are terra-cotta, the floors stone, and despite the noise level and the extreme closeness of the tables, this is a popular lunch hangout for film industry folk and other professionals. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Valet parking.

Lucques
8474 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/655-6277
$12 to $32
West Hollywood
Contemporary

This historic brick building, once silent-film star Harold Lloyd's carriage house, has been transformed into an attractive restaurant popular with younger, well-heeled types. And the cooking - by Suzanne Goin, formerly of Campanile - is smart, too: consider Moroccan squash soup with crème fraîche or arugula salad with duck prosciutto followed by seared scallops with fennel and saffron, or grilled quail with dates and pancetta. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch. Valet parking.

Lunaria
10351 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/282-8870
Under $32
Century City
French

Bernard Jacoupy made Bernard's one of the '80s best restaurants. At this jazz-friendly bistro, the sunny flavors of tomatoes, fennel, and good fresh fish dominate the Provençal menu; there's also an oyster bar. Roomy wicker armchairs and large tables fill the dining room, warmed by watercolors painted by Jacoupy's grandfather. After 8:30 (9:30 on weekends), a wall slides open to reveal the stage and the evening's featured jazz group. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat., no dinner Mon. Valet parking.

Matsuhisa
129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/659-9639
Over $12
West Hollywood
Japanese

Cutting-edge Pacific Rim cuisine is pushed to new limits at this modest-looking yet high-profile Japanese bistro. Chef Nobu Matsuhisa creatively infuses his dishes with flavors encountered during his sojourn in Peru. Consider his caviar-capped tuna stuffed with black truffles, and sea urchin wrapped in a shiso leaf. Tempuras are lighter than usual, and the sushi is fresh and authentic. There isn't another restaurant in the country like it - except Matsuhisa's own branches. Regulars ask the chef to prepare whatever's best that day - and then brace themselves for a daunting tab. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking.

Mimosa
8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 323/655-8895
$12 to $32
West Hollywood
French

Chef Jean-Pierre Bosc's menu is country French with a Provençal bent. There's Lyonnaise salad, served with its de rigueur poached egg; a tarte flambée alsacienne (a pizzalike wood-fired onion tart); and steamed leeks with lentil salad. Standout entrées are bouillabaisse, and fillet of sole au pistou (with basil-garlic paste). Home-cured cornichons are set out on every table, along with crocks of country mustard. A handful of celebrities joins a bevy of neighborhood regulars here, but the atmosphere is intimate, with framed mirrors, red upholstered banquettes, and chalkboard specials. AE, MC, V. No lunch Sat. No dinner Sun. Valet parking.

Mon Kee Seafood Restaurant
679 N. Spring St., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 213/628-6717
Under $22
Downtown
Chinese

The name tells you what to expect - seafood. However, it doesn't convey the morning-freshness of the fish or the lively flavors of dishes like garlic crab, steamed catfish, or shrimp in spicy salt. This crowded, modestly decorated place isn't nearly as big as the newer Hong Kong-style seafood palaces, but it does provide large tables for up to 12 people; be prepared for a wait. AE, DC, MC, V. Pay parking lot.

Monte Alban
11927 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/444-7736
Under $22
West Los Angeles
Mexican

This family-owned café serves the subtle cooking of one of Mexico's most respected culinary regions, Oaxaca, on tables adorned with regional textiles. Flavors here are intense without being spicy: try the bright green chili peppers stuffed with chicken, raisins, and ground nuts; any of the superb moles - dense, complex green, red, yellow, or black sauces made from dozens of spices and seeds - with chicken pork or salmon; or extra-tender stewed goat with toasted avocado leaves. For dessert, there's fried, sliced sweet plantain topped with crème fraîche. DC, MC, V.

Nate 'n' Al's
414 N. Beverly Dr., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/274-0101
Under $12
Beverly Hills
Delicatessens

A famous gathering place for Hollywood comedians and Beverly Hills shoppers, Nate 'n' Al's has regulars bantering with their favorite waitresses, who serve first-rate matzo-ball soup, lox and scrambled eggs, cheese blintzes, potato pancakes, and deli sandwiches. The room is large and the tables roomy, but expect a wait at peak hours. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Free parking.

Nouveau Café Blanc
9777 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/888-0108
$12 to $32
Beverly Hills
Contemporary

Chef-owner Tommy Harase has made his modern yet warm and unpretentious restaurant one of Beverly Hills' unexpected treats - especially when lunchtime entrées such as sautéed salmon with basil vinaigrette or poached Maine lobster top out at $10. Equally good-value is the five-course prix-fixe dinner at $48, which may feature exquisite sautéed foie gras with corn chowder, seared jumbo scallops stuffed with black bean sauce, and roasted rack of lamb. Service is both gracious and unintrusive. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Ocean Avenue Seafood
1401 Ocean Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA
Phone: 310/394-5669
Over $12
Santa Monica
Seafood

Operating since 1946, this cavernous restaurant isn't right on the water, but the Pacific is just across the street - ask for a table by the window for an ocean view. Low ceilings, dim lighting, well-spaced tables, and att