A noisy, buzzy wine bar-restaurant just off Portobello Road, this is as much a social hangout for the local media mafia as a restaurant, especially on weekends, when you'll feel like you've gate-crashed a party - if you manage to get a table, that is. The chef likes to keep ahead of fashion and is best on the appetizer list - many people order two of these instead of an entrée. Try the pastas, the seasonal salad (perhaps romanesco, broccoli, anchovy, and gremolata), the fish (sea bass with fennel, lemon, and rosemary; cod, clams, chorizo, and saffron broth), or whatever sounds unusual. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Notting Hill Gate.

Alastair Little
49 Frith St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7734-5183
£16 to £22
Soho
Contemporary

Little is one of London's most original - and most imitated - chefs, drawing inspiration from practically everywhere (Thailand, Japan, Scandinavia, France, and North Africa, but chiefly Italy) and sometimes bringing things off brilliantly. His restaurant is provocatively stark and sparse, so all attention focuses on the menu, which changes not once but twice daily to take advantage of the best ingredients. There will certainly be fish, but beyond that it's hard to predict. Look for Little's smaller, cheaper restaurant - with the same name - next to the Ladbroke Grove Tube stop. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Alounak
44 Westbourne Grove, London W2, England
Phone: 020/7229-0416
Under £9
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Middle Eastern

This place has a confusing and raffish air to it, but the Iranian food is decent and tried and tested. Middle Eastern locals come here and the Arab music adds to the flavor. The hot bread and kebabs that emerge from the clay oven by the door are superior quality. Try the joojeh kebab or the zereshk polo (chicken with rice and Iranian forest berries). Take the Iranian black tea and the Persian sweets, but don't bother with the sour yogurty drinks - they're not to everyone's liking. MC, V. Tube: Queensway.

Andrew Edmunds
46 Lexington St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7437-5708
£9 to £15
Soho
Eclectic

You wish this always-busy, snug, softly lighted eatery were larger and the seats more forgiving. Tucked away behind Oxford and Carnaby streets, it's a favorite with the film and media bunch, who lunch on the daily-changing set menu. The place is always jammed, thanks to its talent for consistently good food at realistic prices. Starters and main courses range from a taste of Ireland through the Mediterranean to the Middle East. AE, MC, V. Tube: Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus.

Asia de Cuba
St. Martins Lane Hotel, 45 St. Martin's La., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7300-5588
£16 to £22
Covent Garden
Pan-Asian

It's one of the trendiest restaurants, in the trendiest hotel, in the trendiest city in the world, allegedly. Maybe it's ironic, but it takes an American, Ian Schrager, and his Philippe Starck-designed hotel to bring Cool Britannia to its apogee. Asia de Cuba is the lead restaurant at Schrager's St. Martins Lane Hotel. Walk in at night and it feels like a dreamscape. It's sexy and it's loud; Calvin Klein-clad waiters bop and sit by your side. There are also Asia de Cubas at Morgans in New York and the Mondrian in L.A. The food is fusion and you're supposed to share. The Thai beef salad with Asian greens and roasted coconut is delicious, as is the lobster Mai Tai with rum and red curry. Ian Schrager is right: hotels (and their restaurants) are the new discos. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Aubergine
11 Park Walk, London SW10, England
Phone: 020/7352-3449
Over £22
Chelsea
French

A table at Aubergine (there are only 14) was London's toughest reservation when soccer-pro-turned-cooking-star Gordon Ramsay was at the stove. Cumbrian chef William Drabble has taken over and is building his own reputation. His signature dishes are firm and meaty - boudin of wood pigeon with foie gras, turnip, and jus truffle; best-end Mansergh lamb with onions, garlic, and rosemary. The decor is alluring and bathed in the hues of impressionist Provence. Lunch is a thrifty option. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: South Kensington.

The Avenue
7-9 St. James's St., London SW1, England
Phone: 020/7321-2111
£16 to £22
St. James's
Contemporary

Huge, loud, and swanky, especially since it got permission to ply its City-glitzy clientele with beverages way beyond its bedtime (here that's until 1 AM Monday-Saturday), this was London's first restaurant to be owned by committee. Unlike the horse designed by committee (a camel), it has worked out fairly well, emulating New York singles-heavy, dining-as-theater glamour, with a long, rose-pink uplighted glass bar. The food is pretty good, generic Euro-Brit with the usual rash of Mediterranean-vegetarian starters and sides. Set menus are competitively priced, but the content does not always deliver, although the service is friendly. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Green Park.

Bank
1 Kingsway, London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7379-9797
£9 to £15
Covent Garden
Contemporary

Since Bank's successful opening in 1997, its credit rating has continued to soar. City and fashionable folk flock to this vast eatery with its spectacular chandelier and equally dazzling menu. Seared fish and paillard of pheasant; spinach and puy lentils; mousses, brûlées, and nursery puddings are just small examples of its fast-changing world palette, which has a definitive mod-Brit touch. Although not a steal price-wise, the dishes never fail to please. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Holborn.

Bar Italia
22 Frith St., London WI, England
Phone: 020/7437-4520
Under £9
Soho
Italian

A beloved Frith Street landmark, this caffeine and stand-up snack stop is a favorite oasis for photographers and admen, young Soho-ites, theatergoers, and clubbers - both early and late. Strong cappuccino or espresso is the order of the day, and it comes swift and sure from waiters who have seen the tides of London life come and go for years. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Belgo Centraal
50 Earlham St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7813-2233
£9 to £15
Covent Garden
Belgian

The wackiest dining concept in town started in Camden at Belgo Noord and was so adored it was cloned uptown in a big basement space you have to enter by elevator. Have mussels and frites (fries) in vast quantities, served with your choice of 101 Belgian beers (fruit-flavored, Trappist-brewed, white, or light) by people dressed as monks in a hall like a refectory in a Martian monastery. Also eat stoemp (mashed potatoes and cabbage) with steak; Chimay-beer sausages; lobster; or roast chicken. The luxury index is low, but so is the check. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Covent Garden.

The Belvedere
Holland Park off Abbotsbury Rd., London W8, England
Phone: 020/7602-1238
£9 to £15
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Continental

There can be no finer setting for a summer supper or a sunny Sunday brunch than a window table - or a balcony one if you luck out - at this stunning restaurant in the middle of Holland Park. The menu has good rib-eye Aberdeen Angus beef with snails and pommes frites, which suits the conservatorylike room. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun. Tube: Holland Park.

Bertorelli's
44A Floral St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-3969
Under £15
Covent Garden
Italian

Right across from the stage door of the Royal Opera House, Bertorelli's is quietly chic; the food is tempting; and the menu is just innovative enough: sea bass with walnut pesto and monkfish ragout with fennel, wonder beans, Swiss chard, and lime butter are two typical dishes. There is a big café-bar downstairs and a restaurant upstairs. Even more decorous and delicious is the branch at 19-23 Charlotte Street (and do check out its amazing marble-clad rest rooms). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. Tube: Covent Garden.

Bibendum
Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7581-5817
£9 to £22
South Kensington
Contemporary

This converted Michelin showroom, adorned with art deco decorations and brilliant stained glass, remains one of London's dining showplaces, even though the great original chef, Simon Hopkinson, is long gone. Hopkinson championed simple dishes prepared perfectly, and current chef Matthew Harris continues in a similar vein, with the same Euro-Brit flair. Try herring with sour cream, any of the risottos, baked artichoke, steak au poivre, or sea bass and salsa verde. Here, too, are brains and tripe as they ought to be cooked. The £28.50 set-price menu at lunchtime is money well spent. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Bill Bentley's
Swedeland Ct., 202 Bishopsgate, London EC2, England
Phone: 020/7283-1763
£9 to £22
The City and the South Bank
Seafood

You can see from the bare walls and the arched ceiling that this once housed a wine merchant's vaults. There are another four City-based branches in London, all equally old-fashioned in feel and all serving classic boarding school-like fish dishes and seafood platters. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends; last orders 8:30 PM. Tube: Liverpool St.

Bluebird
350 King's Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7559-1000
£9 to £22
Chelsea
Contemporary

From Sir Terence Conran, the man who gave England the wok, the Habitat catalog ("one of the 10 books that changed our life," according to the Sunday Telegraph), and several of London's largest restaurants, comes a full-blown gastrodome - foodmarket, florist, fruit stand, butcher shop, kitchen shop, and café-restaurant, all housed in a mammoth former King's Road garage. The place is pale blue and white, very light, and not in the least cozy (read "noisy"), and the food is slightly formulaic: wood-roasted mussels, coriander, lime leaf; or roasted leg of partridge, Savoy cabbage, chips; then warm chocolate cake and espresso ice cream. The menu has more than a nod in the Asia-Pacific direction. Go for the synergy and visual excitement - Conran's chefs share a tendency to promise more than they deliver. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Sloane Sq.

Brasserie St. Quentin
243 Brompton Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7589-8005
£9 to £22
Knightsbridge
French

A very popular slice of Paris, this restaurant is frequented by French expatriates and locals alike. Every inch of the Gallic menu is explored - queen scallops, escargots, fillet of beef brioche, tart Tatin - in the bourgeois provincial comfort so many London chains (the Dômes, the Cafés Rouges) try for yet fail to achieve. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Brompton Bay
96 Draycott Ave., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7225-2500
£9 to £15
South Kensington
Mediterranean

If you are shopping at Brompton Cross - Voyage, Joseph, Divertimenti - Brompton Bay is good for lunch or dinner. With its clean decor and gold-leaf wall, BB attracts the "Chelsea Set" and local It(ish) Girls. The calm atmosphere is good for a chat à deux. The chef, David Massey, is on the rise and his light, contemporary cooking is well suited for those ladies who lunch. He does great char-grilled squid with chili jam and wild rocket and wonderful halibut in pancetta and Jerusalem artichokes. It's sweet with jazz on a balmy summers' evening. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Browns
47 Maddox St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7491-4565
Under £15
Mayfair
English

Unpretentious, crowd-pleasing, child-friendly English feeding is accomplished at the former establishment of the bespoke tailors Messrs. Cooling and Wells, now converted to Edwardian style by the group behind the very successful regional Browns eateries (the Oxford and Cambridge ones are student standbys). The classic Browns steak and Guinness pie is still on the menu, but king prawns, lamb shanks, roasted peppers, salads, and pastas now predominate. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Oxford Circus.

busabe eathai
106-110 Wardour St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7255-8686
Under £9
Soho
Thai

This is one of the best cheap spots in Soho. It was designed as a superior Thai canteen: all around are deep bronzes, rattans, wooden benches, hardwood tables, low lights, and watercolor-paper lampshades. Diners sit at communal tables, but somehow it's still seductive. The menu overflows with noodles, curries, stir-fries, rice, and sides. Try the stir-fry chicken with butternut squash, green curry chicken with pea aubergine, or seafood vermicelli (with prawns, squid, scallops and spicy sour soup). The juices are cool too. One of busabe eathai's mantras is gan gin gan yuu, which means "as you eat, so you are." There's no smoking. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Cactus Blue
86 Fulham Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7823-7858
£9 to £15
Chelsea
American/Casual

Go for dinner or go for a weekend brunch, but go - American southwestern food is hot and happening in London these days, and this is one of the new Tex-Mex places with attitude. You can find the buzz on split levels bathed in ochre hues, with a gamut of cacti on the stairs. On offer are tequilas, beers, and Baja wines, which help slide down yummy crab stacks and quesadillas. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Café Fish
36-40 Rupert St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7287-8989
£9 to £15
Soho
Seafood

This cheerful, bustling restaurant has an encyclopedic selection of fish - shark and turbot join the trout, halibut, salmon, and monkfish, arranged on the menu according to cooking method (char-grilled, steamed), plus a chalkboard full of daily specials. The Mediterranean and Asian accents usually delight. Try the bar and canteen on the ground floor for a cornucopia of shellfish, while in the upstairs restaurant you can linger longer over the likes of cod and shrimp. This spot is great for pretheater. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Piccadilly Circus.

Café Flo
50-51 St. Martin's La., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-8289
Under £9
Covent Garden
French

This useful brasserie serves unpretentious chicken-liver terrine, baguette sandwiches, steak frites or poisson-frites (fish and fries), tarts, espresso, fresh orange juice, simple set-price weekend menus - everything for the Francophile on a budget. There are branches in Hampstead, Islington, Ludgate Hill, St. Paul's, Fulham, Richmond, and Kensington. AE, MC, V. Tube: Covent Garden.

The Capital
22-24 Basil St., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7589-5171
Over £22
Knightsbridge
French

This elegant, clublike dining room has greige rag-rolled walls, a grown-up atmosphere, and formal service. Chef Eric Chavot pursues traditional French cooking, and most of his fine dishes never fail to astonish. These include a saddle of rabbit with sweet onion pastille and thyme jus or sea bass with Alsace bacon and fried calamari. Desserts follow the same exciting route. Set-price menus at lunch (£24.50) make it somewhat more affordable. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Knightsbridge.

Caravela
39 Beauchamp Pl., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7581-2366
£9 to £15
Knightsbridge
Portuguese

This narrow, lower-ground-floor place is one of London's few Portuguese restaurants. You can get caldo verde (cabbage soup), bacalhau (salt-cured cod), and other typical dishes while listening (Wednesday through Saturday) to the national music, fado - desperately sad songs belted out at thrash-metal volume. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Chelsea Bun Diner
9A Limerston St., London SW10, England
Phone: 020/7352-3635
Under £9
Chelsea
American/Casual

Get fed heaps of food for very little money at this hybrid of an American diner and an English greasy spoon. A huge menu of huge portions - burgers, salads, potato skins, many breakfasts, pastas, and pies - is what you get. Reservations not accepted. V. Tube: Sloane Sq., then Bus 11, 19, 22, or 31.

Chez Gérard
8 Charlotte St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7636-4975
£9 to £22
Bloomsbury
French

One of an excellent chain of steak-frites restaurants (there are 10 across London), this one has widened the choice on the utterly Gallic menu to include more for non-red meat eaters: smoked salmon and cream-cheese roulade and poached eggs, for instance, plus fish dishes and even something for vegetarians, such as sauté of wild mushrooms with cashew nuts and couscous. Steak, served with shoestring fries and béarnaise sauce, remains the reason to visit, though. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Goodge St.

Chez Moi
1 Addison Ave., London W11, England
Phone: 020/7603-8267
£9 to £15
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
French

Sophisticated French food is served in a dark red and black dining room, which, with the tables widely spaced and the lighting low, demands romantic behavior. There are dishes the menu admits are "traditional" that Chez Moi's fans have depended on for more than a quarter-century - like rack of lamb with Dijon mustard and bread crumbs, and filet mignon with port sauce - as well as more novel dishes such as Thai chicken and seared seafood, which take their cue from Asia. The desserts are hit-or-miss, but ample chocolates are brought with the coffee. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: Holland Park.

Chez Nico at Ninety Park Lane
90 Park La., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7409-1290
£16 to £22
Mayfair
French

Those with refined palates and deep pockets would be well advised not to miss Nico Ladenis's exquisite cuisine, served in this suitably hushed, plush Louis XV dining room next to the Grosvenor House Hotel. Autodidact Nico is one of the world's great chefs, and he's famous for knowing it. The menu is stately, with heavenly light touches. There is no salt on the tables - ask for some at your peril. It's all more affordable in daylight, when you can choose from set lunch menus (£25 for three courses). Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: Marble Arch.

Chutney Mary
535 King's Rd., London SW10, England
Phone: 020/7351-3113
£9 to £15
Chelsea
Anglo-Indian

London's stalwart Indian restaurant provides a fantasy version of the British Raj, all giant wicker armchairs and palms. Dishes like masala roast lamb (practically a whole leg, marinated and spiced) and Malabar chicken curry (with coconut, red chili, and cinnamon) alternate with the more familiar North Indian dishes such as dum ka murgh (chicken, poppy seed, green chili, and onion). The best choices are certainly the dishes re-created from the kitchens of Indian chefs cooking for English palates back in the old Raj days. Servers are deferential, and desserts, unheard of in tandoori places, are usually worth leaving room for. The three-course Sunday brunch is a good value at £15. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Fulham Broadway.

Claridge's Restaurant
Claridge Hotel, Brook St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7629-8860
Over £22
Mayfair
French

This restaurant is emerging as a tower of quality in the fickle-fashion London dining scene. Go for the OTT Art Deco dining room with its Hercule Poirot/Dame Barbara Cartland ambience: pistol pinks, gaudy gilts, palms, and mirrors. (Dame Barbara dined at the table by the door for 50 years.) The service, from another age, is impeccable. If you can, sit in the "Royal Box" - a lucky alcove for kings and presidents. The sophisticated French menu includes dishes such as meaty canard with Morello cherries, squab with fig, and foie gras. Arrive early for dinner and grab a drink at the Art Deco bar - it's the coolest cocktail lounge in London. Afternoon tea is taken daily and a Hungarian quartet plays in the foyer. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Bond Street.

Clarke's
124 Kensington Church St., London W8, England
Phone: 020/7221-9225
Over £22
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Contemporary

There's no choice on the evening menu at Sally Clarke's restaurant; her four-course dinners feature ultrafresh ingredients, plainly but perfectly cooked, accompanied by home-baked breads. The flower-and-art-speckled room is similarly home-style, if home is one of the big white Kensington houses you see around here. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug., no lunch Sat. Tube: Notting Hill Gate.

Coffee Cup
74 Hampstead High St., London NW3, England
Phone: 020/7435-7565
Under £9
Camden Town and Hampstead
Cafes

A Hampstead landmark for just about as long as anyone can remember, this smoky, dingy, uncomfortable café is lovable, very cheap, and therefore always packed. You can get anything (beans, eggs, kippers, mushrooms) on toast, grills, sandwiches, cakes, fry-ups, etc. - nothing healthy or fashionable whatsoever. There are tables outside in summer but no liquor license. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Tube: Hampstead.

The Collection
264 Brompton Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7225-1212
£9 to £15
South Kensington
Mediterranean

Enter this former Katharine Hamnett shop through the spotlighted tunnel over the glass drawbridge, and you're immediately engulfed in one of the most fashionable crowds in London - so be careful about your outfit. A huge warehouse setting, adorned with industrial wood beams and steel cables, a vast bar, and a suspended gallery, makes a great theater for people-watching. The loud music makes conversation impossible anyway. Well-dressed wannabes peck at Mediterranean food seasoned with Japanese and Thai accents, all hoping that Mogens Tholstrup, the director-doré, will table-hop on over. The Belgo Group has now taken over, although Tholstrup stays on to preserve the restaurant's signature style. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Condotti
4 Mill St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7499-1308
Under £9
Mayfair
American/Casual

In a neighborhood not known for its casual dining options, this elegant pizzeria is like a breath of fresh air. Anyone familiar with Pizza Express will know the menu already - because this also belongs to the founder of that chain. The Veneziana (with onions, pine nuts, sultanas, and capers) is everyone's fave, and a donation goes to the Venice in Peril Fund when you order it. Or try the King Edward, with a potato base instead of bread, and check out the Paolozzis on the walls. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Oxford Circus.

The Connaught
Carlos Pl., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7499-7070
Over £22
Mayfair
French

This charming and grand mahogany-paneled, velvet-upholstered, and crystal-chandeliered dining room belongs to the absolutely exclusive eponymous hotel. Waiters wear tails, tables must be booked far in advance, and prices are fearsome; but the restaurant remains London's most-respected traditional dining room, with famed French chef Michel Bourdin still in charge of the kitchens after more than a quarter of a century. There is nothing wild here, only the mushrooms and fabulous game - venison, guinea fowl, pigeon (not local birds) - presented with traditional trimmings. "Luncheon dishes" from the trolley follow a pattern according to the day of the week (if this is Wednesday, it must be beef) and are not as exorbitant as they seem at first, because the price includes a starter and dessert. The table d'hôte changes daily. The Connaught is by no means a fashionable place, but it is never out of fashion. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Green Park.

Costa's Fish Restaurant
18 Hillgate St., London W8, England
Phone: 020/7727-4310
Under £9
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Greek

Come for good value and such down-to-earth Greek food as grilled fish and kleftiko (roast lamb on the bone). The atmosphere is homey and happy, and there's a tiny garden open in summer. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in summer. Tube: Notting Hill Gate.

The Cow
89 Westbourne Park Rd., London W2, England
Phone: 020/7221-5400
£9 to £15
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Contemporary

Not another Conran? This place belongs to Tom, son of Sir Terence, although it's a million miles from Quag's and Mezzo. A tiny, chic gastro-pub, it comprises a faux-Dublin back-room bar that serves oysters, salmon cakes, and baked brill. Upstairs a serious chef whips up Tuscan-British specialties - skate poached in minestrone is one temptation. Notting Hillbillies and other stylish folk adore the house special - a half-dozen Irish rock oysters with a pint of Guinness - as well as the mixed grills and steaks that often figure on the menu. Restaurant reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Tube: Westbourne Park.

Cranks
9-11 Tottenham St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7631-3912
Under £9
Soho
Vegetarian

This is a popular vegetarian chain - there are other branches at Great Newport Street, Adelaide Street, Canary Wharf, and Barrett Street - still serving meatless meals similar to those that put the chain on the map back in the hippie, back-to-earth 1960s. It is always crowded and, irritatingly, insists on closing at 8. Food can sometimes be hit or miss. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Sun. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Criterion
Piccadilly Circus, London W1, England
Phone: 020/7930-0488
£9 to £15
Mayfair
French

This spectacular, neo-Byzantine mirrored marble hall, which first opened in 1874, is heavy on the awe factor, with dishes to match, and Marco Pierre White's team scores highly. He doesn't cook here, but some of his well-known and often-copied dishes appear on a menu whose divisions include one headed "Farinaceous Dishes" - where you'll find his ballotine of salmon with herbs and fromage blanc, for instance. The glamour of the soaring golden ceiling, peacock-blue theater-size drapes, oil paintings, and attentive Gallic service adds up to an elegant night out. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Piccadilly Circus.

Daquise
20 Thurloe St., London SW7, England
Phone: 020/7589-6117
Under £9
South Kensington
Polish

This venerable and well-loved Polish café by the tube station is incongruous in this neighborhood, as it is neither style-conscious nor expensive. Fill your stomach without emptying your pocketbook (or, it must be said, overstimulating your taste buds) on bigos (sauerkraut with garlic sausage and mushrooms), stuffed cabbage, cucumber salad, or just coffee and cake. MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Down Mexico Way
25 Swallow St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7437-9895
£9 to £15
Mayfair
Latin

London is warming up to Latin American food, and here among the usual tortillas are a few (somewhat overpriced) adventurous numbers, such as tuna with peach salsa or chicken with cocoa and chili. Look for the beautiful Spanish ceramic tiles. Avoid evenings here if you want a quiet night out - the place is often taken over by party animals. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Piccadilly Circus.

The Eagle
159 Farringdon Rd., London EC1, England
Phone: 020/7837-1353
Under £15
The City and the South Bank
Mediterranean

If the name makes it sound like a pub, that's because it is a pub, albeit a superior one, with wood floors, a few sofas, and art on the walls. It does, however, belong in the "Restaurants" section by virtue of the amazingly good-value Portuguese-Spanish food, which you choose from the blackboard menu (or by pointing) at the bar. There are about nine dishes, a pasta, three vegetarians, and/or risotto always among them. There are currently quite a few places in London charging four times the price for remarkably similar food; there's also a welcome trend toward pubs serving good meals - one that the Eagle all but started. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Tube: Farringdon.

Elena's L'Etoile
30 Charlotte St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7636-7189
£9 to £22
Bloomsbury
French

Elena Salvoni presided for years over L'Escargot in Soho, where she made so many friends among happy customers she was rewarded with her name in lights. This understated century-old place, whose only concession to trendiness of decor is a row of bentwood chairs unaccountably roped to the top of one wall, is one of London's few remaining unreconstructed French-bistro restaurants. The traditional dishes of duck braised with red cabbage, salmon fish cakes, and poulet rôti (roast chicken), crème brûlée, and lemon tart have now been joined by some newer treats, and most diners are guaranteed a warm smile from Elena, even if you're not one of the politician-journalist-actor regulars. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: Goodge St.

The Enterprise
35 Walton St., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7584-3148
Under £15
Knightsbridge
Contemporary

One of the new breed of gastro-pubs, this is a hot spot for hooray Henrys and brash bucks - near Harrods and Brompton Cross, it's filled with decorative types who complement the decor: paisley-striped wallpaper, Edwardian side tables covered with baskets and farmhouse fruit, vintage books piled up in the windows, white linen and fresh flowers on the tables. The menu isn't overly pretty - seared tuna and char-grilled asparagus, timbale of aubergine, salmon with artichoke hearts - but the ambience certainly is. AE, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

Fatboy's Diner
23 Horner Sq. , Spitalfields Market, London E1, England
Phone: 020/7375-2763
Under £9
The City and the South Bank
American/Casual

One for the kids, this is a 1941 chrome trailer transplanted from the banks of the Susquehanna in Pennsylvania and now secreted, unexpectedly, in a back street, complete with an Astroturf "garden." A '50s jukebox accompanies the dogs, burgers, and fries. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Tube: Liverpool St.

First Floor
186 Portobello Rd., London W11, England
Phone: 020/7243-0072
£9 to £15
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Contemporary

This place is for well-off but artsy locals, popular for its inventive food and its ambience - it looks like a bombed church inhabited by distressed nobility. There's a great brunch on weekends; otherwise go for Thai fish cakes, monkfish and celeriac, or pecan-encrusted lamb rump with sweet-potato gratin. Sides - petit dauphinoise (sliced potatoes baked in cream) or Asian greens - often hit the heights, as do desserts like hazelnut and Bailey's cheesecake. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Notting Hill Gate.

fish!
Cathedral St., London SE1, England
Phone: 020/7234-3333
£9 to £15
The City and the South Bank
Seafood

This is one of the sensations to hit the London scene. A remarkable diner - designed, sleek and modern, by Julyan Wickham - it sits in the shadow of Southwark Cathedral, looking for the life of it like the glass-covered innards of a giant whale. But, no, it's the Victorian conversion of a section of Borough Market, which still operates across the road. The fish at fish! is excellent, and PC. The langoustine are creel-caught, the salmon organic, and the scallops landed by divers. There are always at least eight types on the menu, from swordfish to brill, skate, and turbot. The splish-splosh in-and-out formula has struck a chord; six new fish! are coming on-stream. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: London Bridge.

Food for Thought
31 Neal St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-0239
Under £9
Covent Garden
Vegetarian

This simple basement restaurant (no liquor license) seats only 50 and is extremely popular, so you'll almost always find a line of people down the stairs. The menu - stir-fries, casseroles, salads, and desserts - changes every day, and each dish is freshly made; there's no microwave. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed 1 wk at Christmas. Tube: Covent Garden.

The Fountain
181 Piccadilly, London W1, England
Phone: 020/7734-8040
Under £22
St. James's
English

At the back of Fortnum & Mason is this old-fashioned restaurant, as frumpy and popular as a boarding-school matron, serving delicious light meals, toasted snacks, and ice-cream sodas. During the day, go for the Welsh rarebit or Fortnum's steak-and-ale pie; in the evening, a no-frills rump steak is a typical option. It's just the place for afternoon tea and ice-cream sundaes after the Royal Academy or Bond Street shopping, and for pretheater meals. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. Tube: Green Park.

Fung Shing
15 Lisle St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7437-1539
£9 to £15
Soho
Chinese

This comfortable, cool-green restaurant is a cut above the Lisle-Wardour Street crowd in both service and ambience, as well as food. The usual Chinatown options are supplemented by some exciting dishes. Salt-baked chicken, served on or off the bone with an accompanying bowl of intense broth, is essential. Reserve a table in the conservatory-style back room. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Gallipoli II
120 Upper St., London N1, England
Phone: 020/7359-1578
Under £9
Camden Town and Hampstead
Turkish

This restaurant's charms are well known to local Islingtonians (hence the crowds) - it's a fun-packed palace with top service and bags of style. Things are crammed, however, and the rule is very much "room for one more." The riot of a meze (a spread of small dishes) is the best first act: it's bursting with flavor, texture, and color (the kisir, crushed wheat with walnut and onion, and falafel are particularly good). Keep the breads coming and you won't need much more. The lamb incik is tender and the baklava is appropriately sweet. Reservations essential. MC, V.

Gaucho Grill
19 Swallow St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7734-4040
£9 to £15
St. James's
Latin

Some say these are the best steaks in London, but that's probably overstating it. Nevertheless, this chain of four Argentinian chophouses (the other locations are Canary Wharf, Hampstead, and the City) are reasonably priced and unreconstructed in their reverence for meat. The steaks are flown vacuum packed from Buenos Aires, and are cut to order. The biggest they've grilled is 1.8 kg (4 lbs!), but standard sizes are 225 g and 300 g (8 oz and 10½ oz). There is not much for vegetarians, but it's great for a beef fix. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Piccadilly Circus.

Geales
2 Farmer St., London W8, England
Phone: 020/7727-7969
Under £9
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Seafood

This is a cut above your typical fish-and-chips joint, and it is reflected in the prices. The decor is stark, but the fish will have been swimming just hours beforehand, even the ones from the Caribbean (grilled swordfish is a specialty). Geales is popular with the rich and famous, not just loyal locals. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed 2 wks at Christmas. Tube: Notting Hill Gate.

Gordon Ramsay
68-69 Royal Hospital Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7352-4441
Over £22
Chelsea
French

When the celebrated La Tante Claire moved out of its old Chelsea abode, Gordon Ramsay - considered to be London's greatest chef - lost no time in getting his feet under its tables. Unfortunately, his new place is on the small side, so it still takes weeks to book a seat, though not as long as at his former, even tinier Aubergine. Here, Ramsay is whipping up a storm with white beans, girolles, foie gras, scallops, and truffles, and by the time you read this he will probably have earned another five awards. For £75, blow out on the seven-course option, for £60 you can wallow in three dinner courses, or plump for lunch (£30 for three courses) for a gentler check. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends. Tube: Sloane Sq.

Greenhouse
27A Hay's Mews, London W1, England
Phone: 020/7499-3331
£9 to £22
Mayfair
Contemporary

Tucked away behind the Mayfair mansions in a cute, cobbled mews is this elegant salon for people who like their food big and strong. You sit among extravagant topiary and men in black - with chauffeurs to match - to partake of modern British cuisine wider in influence than that of the now-departed, famous-from-TV chef Gary Rhodes: sea bass sag aloo, onion bhargee, and mushroom risotto. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Tube: Green Park.

India Club
143 Strand, London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-0650
Under £9
Covent Garden
Indian

This cheap Indian canteen defies all conventions - but it's still going strong after 50 years. It has been described as "strange to the point of weird," but idiosyncratic is more generous. You'll find it up the non-descript stairs, on the second floor of the Strand Continental Hotel. It's not pretty - Formica tables, linoleum floor, faded pictures of Indian notables - but it's a favorite with local London University students, BBC World Service workers, and people from the Indian High Commission. The menu is split vegetarian/non-vegetarian. You have to be a member of the hotel drinking club (£1) to get a beer from the bar (down two flights), so just stick with the lassies and the masala dosai (South Indian pancakes filled with onion and potato). Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Tube: Charing Cross.

Isola
145 Knightsbridge, London SW1, England
Phone: 020/7838-1044
£16 to £22
Knightsbridge
Italian

This guns to be the coolest restaurant in London, so don't be surprised to see Joseph Fiennes mooching in a corner. The brainchild of Oliver Peyton (Atlantic Bar & Grill, Mash), Isola is grown-up osteria and Italian fine dining cooked by a Frenchman, Bruno Loubet. Upstairs is banquette-and-booth power dining; downstairs is more larky and glam - diners sit at off-white leather "compromise sofas" amid the sparkle of chrome and mirrors, parquet walls, and molecular lighting. Head for the zuppa di fagiano e farro (pheasant soup with cabbage and faro) and the faraona al forno (wood-roasted guinea fowl with liver and mascarpone). Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Knightsbridge.

The Ivy
1 West St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-4751
£16 to £22
Covent Garden
Contemporary

It's everybody's favorite restaurant - everybody who works in the media or the arts, that is. In a deco dining room with blinding-white tablecloths, and Hodgkins and Paolozzis on the walls, the celebrated and the wannabes eat Caesar salad, roast grouse, Thai baked sea bass, braised oxtail, and rice pudding with Armagnac prunes or sticky toffee pudding. For star-trekking ("Don't look now, dear, but there's Ralph Fiennes") this is without a doubt the top place in London. The weekday three-course lunch is a bonus at £15.50. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Covent Garden.

J Sheekey
28-32 St. Martin's Ct., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7240-2565
£9 to £22
Covent Garden
Seafood

J Sheekey completes the golden hat trick from the team behind Le Caprice and the Ivy. This is where the stars (you know, Cate Blanchett, George Michael, Johnny Depp) go when the rubbernecking at the Ivy becomes tedious. Sleek, discreet, and clublike, and slap in the heart of theaterland, this revived former fish restaurant is once again a seafood haven. The walls are crammed with talent: Peter O'Toole, Ollie Reed, Chaplin, Coward, Olivier, Sellers. The decor charms; cracked glazed tiles, lava-rock bar tops, American oak paneling. Sample the wonderful jellied eels, pickled herrings, roll mops, Dover sole, and fish pie. To save money, try the weekend set lunch. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Joe Allen
13 Exeter St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-0651
£9 to £15
Covent Garden
American

Long hours (thespians flock here after the curtains fall in theaterland) and a welcoming, if loud, brick-walled interior mean New York Joe's London branch is still swinging after more than two decades. The fun, contemporary menu helps: roasted and stuffed poblano chilies and black bean soup are typical starters; entrées include barbecue ribs with black-eyed peas and London's only available corn muffins, or roast monkfish with sun-dried-tomato salsa. There are the perennial egg dishes and huge salads, too, and Yankee desserts such as grilled banana bread with ice cream and hot caramel sauce. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Tube: Covent Garden.

Julie's
137 Portland Rd., London W11, England
Phone: 020/7727-7985
£9 to £15
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
English

This sweet 1960s throwback (with a pop-star past) has two parts: an upstairs wine bar and a basement restaurant, both decorated with Victorian ecclesiastical furniture. Jean Shrimpton and Terence Stamp, Bryan Ferry and Jerry Hall, even Sean Connery and Michael Caine used to come in the early days (now it's their children who turn up). The cooking is sound, old-fashioned English (salmon-and-halibut terrine, roast pheasant with chestnut stuffing and wild rowan jelly). The traditional Sunday lunches are very popular, and in summer there's a garden room for open-air eating. AE, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Tube: Holland Park.

Kensington Place
201 Kensington Church St., London W8, England
Phone: 020/7727-3184
£9 to £15
Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
Contemporary

Being a favorite among the local glitterati keeps this place packed and noisy. A huge plate-glass window and mural are backdrops to fashionable food - grilled foie gras with sweet-corn pancake and baked tamarillo with vanilla ice cream are perennials - but it's the fun buzz that draws the crowds. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Notting Hill Gate.

Konditor & Cook
Young Vic Theatre, 66 The Cut, London SE1, England
Phone: 020/7620-2700
Under £9
The City and the South Bank
English

Very useful for theatrical forays over the river, this cafeteria in the Young Vic theater serves full meals a cut above the tired quiche and curly sandwiches you might expect. Black ravioli stuffed with crab as well as Toulouse sausages with creamed mash are the kind of dishes to expect, but the pies and cakes - from the eponymous bakery around the corner, which supplies half of London - are the standouts. MC, V. Closed Sun. Tube: Waterloo or Southwark.

L'Escargot
48 Greek St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7437-2679
£9 to £15
Soho
Continental

This ever-popular media haunt serves Anglo-French food in a ground-floor brasserie and a more formal upstairs restaurant. Reasonably priced wine from a comprehensive list sets off leg of duck and braised red cabbage, or simple poached or grilled fish. With its new face-lift, this place is relaxed and reliable. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. Tube: Leicester Sq.

L'Odéon
65 Regent St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7287-1400
£9 to £22
Mayfair
French

This contribution to London's mania for giant restaurants is in a former airline office, its long, low dimensions peculiarly reminiscent of an aircraft, despite the gauzy partitions throughout. Food is elevated French bistro-style with the usual modish Italian additions - grilled fish and meats, wild mushrooms on brioche toast - and is far more affordable in set-menu form, available for lunch and before 7 PM. Tables by the huge arched windows are fun for people-watching. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Piccadilly Circus.

L'Oranger
5 St. James's St., London SW1, England
Phone: 020/7839-3774
Over £16
St. James's
French

This offshoot of Aubergine in Chelsea follows a similar route of French-Mediterranean cuisine. The dishes can reach gobsmacking precision and perfection: a ravioli of lamb and tomato consommé; monkfish tail wrapped in crushed black pepper, spinach, and antiboise (tomato, olive oil, and basil) sauce; roast fig tartelette with spiced pear and cinnamon ice cream. The conservatory room with its train of tables up the middle is romantic, plus there's a little courtyard where the last duel in London was fought. The all-French waiters are courteous and not snobby. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: Green Park.

La Brasserie
272 Brompton Rd., London SW3, England
Phone: 020/7584-1668
£9 to £15
Chelsea
French

This is a convenient spot for South Kensington museum visits; it has flexible and long opening hours, a menu of entirely French dishes - from fish soup to tarte Tatin - and a good buzz on Sunday mornings, when the entire well-heeled neighborhood sits around reading the papers and sipping cappuccino. You can't do that at peak times, when you must eat, but the food's reliable, if a little overpriced. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: South Kensington.

La Poule au Pot
231 Ebury St., London SW1, England
Phone: 020/7730-7763
£9 to £22
Chelsea
French

One of London's most romantic restaurants, La Poule au Pot is superb for proposals (or assignations). Gallic and rustic, this is a corner of France in darkest Belgravia. The "Chelsea Set" loves it; Americans too. It is candlelit at night - you could be in a rambling French country house. The country cooking is good, not spectacular. The poule au pot (stewed chicken) with uncut vegetables and lapin à la moutarde (rabbit with mustard) are strong and hearty. There are fine classics such as beef bourguignonne and French onion soup. The service comes with bonhomie. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Sloane Sq.

La Tante Claire
Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Pl., London SW1, England
Phone: 020/7823-2003
Over £22
Knightsbridge
French

Due to the demand for its tables, one of the best restaurants in London upped its sticks, pots, and pans and moved to the more spacious Berkeley Hotel. Chef Pierre Koffmann still reigns over La Tante Claire, so you can expect the same blindingly brilliant standards of haute cuisine. From the carte, you might choose langostine tails, citrus jus, and celeriac mousse; oxtail with truffle sauce on foie gras; or Koffmann's signature dish of pigs' feet with sweetbreads and wild mushrooms. As every expense-accounter knows, the set lunch menu (£28) is a genuine bargain. Lunch reservations must be made three to four days in advance, dinner reservations three to four weeks. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., no lunch Sat. Tube: Knightsbridge.

Le Caprice
Arlington House, Arlington St., London SW1, England
Phone: 020/7629-2239
£9 to £22
St. James's
Contemporary

Secreted in a small street behind the Ritz, Le Caprice may command the deepest loyalty of any restaurant in London because it gets everything right: the glamorous, glossy black Eva Jiricna interior; the perfect pitch of the informal but respectful service; the menu, halfway between Euro-peasant and fashion plate. This food - crispy duck and watercress salad; seared scallops with bacon and sorrel; risotto nero (with squid); calves' liver with caramelized shallots, mash, and sage; grilled rabbit with black-olive polenta; and divine desserts, too - has no business being so good, because the other reason everyone comes here is that everyone else does, which leads to the best people-watching in town (apart from at its sister restaurant, the Ivy). Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Green Park.

Le Gavroche
43 Upper Brook St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7408-0881
Over £22
Mayfair
French

Albert Roux's son, Michel, retains many of his father's "capital C" Classical dishes and has added his own style to this place, once considered London's finest restaurant. The basement dining room is comfortable and sedate, pleasing only if your idea of riveting decor is low-ceilinged and accented with potted plants and bland modern paintings. The set lunch is relatively affordable at £38.50 (for canapés and three courses, plus mineral water, a half-bottle of wine, coffee, and petits fours). In fact, it's the only way to eat here if you don't have an expense account at your disposal - which most patrons do. You must reserve at least one week in advance. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends and 10 days at Christmas. Tube: Marble Arch.

Le Pont de la Tour
36D Shad Thames , Butler's Wharf, London SE1, England
Phone: 020/7403-8403
£9 to £15
The City and the South Bank
French

Sir Terence Conran's place across the river, overlooking the bridge that gives it its name, comes into its own in summer, when the outside tables are heaven. Inside are a wine merchant, bakery and deli; a seafood bar; a brasserie; and this '30s diner-style restaurant, smart as the captain's table. Fish and seafood (lobster salad, steamed halibut and hollandaise, sea bream with herb risotto) and meat and game (Denham-estate venison with parsnip-and-bitter-chocolate sauce, Gressingham duck with orange and thyme) feature heavily - vegetarians are out of luck. Prune-and-Armagnac tart or nut fondant could finish a glamorous - and expensive - meal. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Tower Hill.

Lemonia
89 Regent's Park Rd., London NW1, England
Phone: 020/7586-7454
£9 to £15
Camden Town and Hampstead
Greek

On a very pleasant street near Regent's Park is this superior version of London Greek - large and light, friendly, and packed every evening. Besides the usual mezedes (appetizers), souvlaki (kebabs), stifado (beef stewed in wine), and so on, there are interesting specials: quail, perhaps, or gemista (stuffed vegetables). Reservations essential. MC, V. No lunch Sat., no dinner Sun. Tube: Chalk Farm.

Livebait
41-43 The Cut, London SE1, England
Phone: 020/7928-7211
£9 to £15
The City and the South Bank
Seafood

Perhaps no longer as truly fantastic as when it was independently run, this expanded, plain-looking fish restaurant is still packing them in, serving English seafood with a range of British ales by the pint (cockles and mussels alive-alive-o!), home-baked breads (beetroot, garlic, or turmeric, as well as olive and walnut), and all sorts of fish: broiled, in pies, baked, stewed, and generally combined in ways that are never boring. There are also branches in Covent Garden, Wandsworth, the City, Fulham, and Notting Hill. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. Tube: Southwark.

Lou Pescadou
241 Old Brompton Rd., London SW5, England
Phone: 020/7370-1057
£9 to £15
South Kensington
French

This place is like a little slice of the South of France, with a sea-theme decor and emphatically French staff. The menu changes often and is based on fish - don't miss the soupe de poisson (fish soup) with croutons and rouille (rose-color, garlicky mayonnaise) if it's featured. The wine list can be on the pricey side. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Earl's Court.

Maison Bertaux
28 Greek St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7437-6007
Under £9
Soho
Cafes

On two floors in central Soho, this French patisserie is not in the least dainty, but it is the kind of place to refuel after a shopping trek, with a savory pastry at lunchtime, a Danish mid-morning, or even an early supper (it closes at 8 PM). The ancient rivalry with Valerie, around the corner, continues. No credit cards. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Maison Novelli
29-31 Clerkenwell Green, London EC1, England
Phone: 020/7251-6606
£9 to £22
The City and the South Bank
Contemporary

Jean-Christophe Novelli is one of the heroes of the Mod Brit movement, and his restaurant has drawn foodies from the day it opened in up-and-buzzing Clerkenwell, near stylish Islington. These days, gladly, Novelli has downsized and is back running the kitchen after almost burning out, expanding his empire across London and sharing his cooking secrets in the Times. Favorites include glazed goat cheese, celeriac, and mozzarella terrine; roast fillet of beef; Beaufort cheese, garlic, and tomatoes; and the famed pig's trotter stuffed "following the mood of the day." All is not offally, however - you can also come by an elegant sea bass with chorizo or truffle oil, or pan-fried halibut with mussel sauce. Finish it all off with a tarte Tatin with rum-raisin ice cream or hot-and-cold chocolate cake. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Farringdon.

Maxwell's
8-9 James St., London WC2, England
Phone: 020/7836-0303
Under £9
Covent Garden
American

London's first-ever burger joint, now more than a quarter-century old, cloned itself and then grew up. Here's the result, a happy place under the Royal Opera House serving the kind of food you're homesick for: quesadillas and nachos, Buffalo chicken wings, barbecued ribs, Cajun chicken, chef's salad, and a burger to die for. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Covent Garden.

Melati
21 Great Windmill St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7437-2745
Under £9
Soho
Malaysian

What amounts to a Malaysian café with wooden tables and, usually, lines at the door is a very useful place when you don't want to spend too much but are looking for a taste thrill. Whole stuffed squid and a tofu omelet, stir-fried vegetables, and the inevitable nasi goreng (spicy fried rice with tiny shrimp, onions, garlic, etc.) are among the dishes. AE, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Mezzo
100 Wardour St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7314-4000
£9 to £15
Soho
Eclectic

Sir Terence Conran's gargantuan 480-seater rolls on, much maligned and beloved by turns. It's not as polished as his Sartoria in Savile Row or as efficient as Zinc on Heddon Street, but young office and evening crowds still like to hang out here. Downstairs is the restaurant proper, with its huge glass-walled kitchen, Allen Jones murals, grand piano and dance floor, and its contemporary menu that includes goodies like sea bass, rabbit, and chocolate-and-ginger truffle tart. The upstairs bar overlooks an informal Southeast Asian operation called Mezzonine, where wasabi-seared tuna and bean sprouts, coconut-chicken laksa, and deep-fried bream are the order of the day. A late-night café-patisserie is next door. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Leicester Sq.

Mirabelle
56 Curzon St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7499-4636
£9 to £22
Mayfair
French

This is Marco Pierre White doing what he does best - taking over an age-old establishment, licking it into shape, and turning its fortunes around. The decor is in-your-face lavish, while the food is an excellent interpretation of French with a hint of Italian, with fewer frills on the price. Magical seafood abounds, and some meat creations are remarkable (steak with snails). The range of chocolate desserts is absolutely gutsy. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Green Park.

Momo
25 Heddon St., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7434-4040
£9 to £15
St. James's
North African

Momo is one of the hottest tickets in town. If you can book a table, go. Algerian-born Mourad Mazouz - Momo to his friends - has stormed beau London with his casbah-like, Moroccan-inspired North African restaurant, set in a cul-de-sac behind Regent Street. Going Momo is a real experience. The seats are low and placed close together, there's a resident DJ and often live music. North African music troupes sometimes work their way among the awestruck diners. Downstairs is the hot and souk-like members-only Kemia Bar, and next door is Mô - a Moroccan tearoom, open to all. The restaurant menu, which is based on pastilla, tagine, and couscous, doesn't quite match the excitement of the place; lamb merguez is recommended. Luckily, the restaurant CD, Arabesque, is now on sale. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tube: Piccadilly Circus.

Moro
34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1, England
Phone: 020/7833-8336
£9 to £15
The City and the South Bank
Mediterranean

Just up the road from the City at the cusp of Clerkenwell and Sadler's Wells Islington borders is Exmouth Market - a cluster of shops, an Italian church with accompanying Italian deli, and Moro, an oasis of a restaurant that has become an award-winning outpost since it opened in 1997. The menu here provides a fashionable mélange of Spanish and North African flavors. Slow-cooked spiced meats, cured serrano hams, salt cod with chickpeas, and other delicacies flavored with fresh herbs are the secret to Moro's success. The only downside is the persistent noise, but then, that's part of the buzz. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun. Tube: Farringdon.

Morton's
28 Berkeley Sq., London W1, England
Phone: 020/7493-7171
£16 to £22
St. James's
French