5 & Diner
6840 W. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/368-7903
Under $15
Las Vegas
American/Casual

Meals at this bright and cheerful eatery with multiple locations around town include entrée, soup or salad, vegetable, and choice of potato - starting at $5.29. Thick milk shakes, baked homemade meat loaf with rich brown gravy, big hamburgers, spaghetti with garlic bread, chicken-fried steaks, and roast beef are menu mainstays. The quality is surprisingly good and the atmosphere is friendly. It's open from 6 AM until the wee hours. AE, MC, V.

A.J.'s Steakhouse
4455 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-8105
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

The Hard Rock Hotel offers a time-machine ride back to Old Las Vegas with this retro-style room that serves as a tribute to Hard Rock chairman Peter Morton's father, Arnie, a Chicago restaurateur. Behind the oxblood leather front doors lies a dining room decorated with 1950s-style furniture and photos; there's even a piano bar. Among the appetizers are gulf shrimp cocktail and smoked Norwegian salmon. Featured steaks include a 20-ounce New York strip sirloin and a 24-ounce prime porterhouse. Alaskan salmon encrusted in horseradish and Hawaiian tuna steak are among the non-beef options. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Andre's French Restaurant
401 S. 6th St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/385-5016
Over $25
Las Vegas
French

Cynics predicted an early demise for Andre Rochat's venture when he opened a classic French restaurant in an ivy-covered 1930s-era home several blocks away from the bright lights of downtown's famous Glitter Gulch. That was in 1979, and Las Vegans and visiting conventioneers are still savoring his oven-roasted rack of lamb with mustard and herb sauce, filet mignon in green peppercorn sauce, and amazing soufflés. You'll also find more modern creations, such as seared scallops with macadamia nuts; the selections change daily depending on the availability of fresh ingredients. Rochat is renowned for his spectacular wine cellars. A second location at the Monte Carlo serves French food that's just as fine, but in a much more spectacular room. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Antonio's
3700 W. Flamingo Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/252-7737
Over $25
Las Vegas
Italian

Inlaid marble floors, a blue-sky dome, and murals depicting Italian scenes decorate this quiet restaurant, which has an open kitchen. The long menu offers well-prepared northern Italian cuisine with old favorites like cioppino and eggplant Parmesan. If it's available, order the five-onion soup - and you can ask the waiter for the recipe. Desserts include tiramisu. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Applebee's
3340 S. Maryland Pkwy., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/737-4990
Under $15
Las Vegas
American/Casual

This popular chain restaurant offers a family-friendly atmosphere, reasonable prices, and a well-rounded selection - from steaks to veggie burgers. AE, D, MC, V.

Aureole
3590 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/632-7401
Over $50
Las Vegas
Contemporary

Here's the star in the glamorous Mandalay Bay's array of world-class restaurants. A four-story "Cellar in the Sky" wine tower, the first of its kind in the world, holds 12,000 bottles that are reached by wine stewards who are hoisted up and down via a system of pulleys. Among Aureole's distinctive rooms is the exquisite Swan Court, overlooking a patio beside a stream with swans (the patio is perfect for before- and after-dinner drinks). Seasonal specialties include toasted-corn blini with Osetra caviar, saffron scallops with creamed potatoes, and bluefin tuna tartare with a chile-spiced ponzu sauce. For dessert try the decorated lemon custard, cool banana mousse, or pineapple-citrus cheesecake. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Bally's Steakhouse
3645 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/967-4661
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

The dining room of this traditional steak house has a mirrored food and wine display, large fireplace, and comfortable furnishings. The menu includes homemade sausage-filled mushrooms baked with garlic, spinach, and Fontina cheese; Scottish smoked salmon with bagel chips and horseradish crème fraîche; and jumbo pancetta-wrapped sea scallops with fresh-basil relish. Or try the dazzling mesquite-grilled 20-ounce bone-in rib eye with garlic-herb butter. Be sure your dessert pocket is not full - among the magnificently presented sweets are chocolate pâté (a trio of chocolates with Grand Marnier vanilla sauce). AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Bamboo Garden
4850 Flamingo Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/871-3262
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Chinese

Don't let the reasonable prices or modest setting in the Flamingo Road shopping center fool you: Bamboo Garden has some of the most unusual Asian cuisine around. Dishes include cream of seafood soup, Mongolian lamb, firecracker beef, Hunan eggplant, and more. The room has a bamboo motif, and the service is superb. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Bertolini's
Forum Shops at Caesars, Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/735-4663
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Italian

Tables at this sidewalk café inside the Forum Shops at Caesars are set up in the piazza surrounding the Fountain of the Gods. The outside section is very noisy; if you want to talk, take a table in the dark, clubby interior, where booths line the black-and-yellow antiqued walls. An open kitchen turns out soups, salads, single-portion pizzas, pasta, and chicken, sausage, and fish dishes. A gelato bar offers mouthwatering ice cream and sorbet. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V.

Billy Bob's Steak House
5111 Boulder Hwy., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/456-7777
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Barbecue

Big food is the name of the game at the Western-theme Billy Bob's Steak House at Sam's Town. The 28-ounce rib eye is Texas-sized; you'll need a trailer to get the doggie-bag prime rib home. The barbecued brisket could feed a rodeo, and after the "Western Roundup" (for two) - ribs, chicken, brisket, seafood kabobs, potato, coleslaw, baked beans, and salad - you'll have to call for a trailer to get you home. And then there's dessert: the chocolate eclairs are a foot long and the chocolate cake could fill up a good chunk of the Grand Canyon. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Binion's Coffee Shop
128 Fremont St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/382-1600
Under $25
Las Vegas
American/Casual

Even though this restaurant has practically doubled in size through the years, there's almost always a line. The specialties include Benny Binion's Natural (two eggs, smoked ham, bacon, or sausage, home fries, toast, and coffee), which is considered by many to be the best breakfast bargain in town, along with the 10 PM to 6 AM New York steak special, and Binion's Delight (cheeseburger with potato salad or fries). Chili, steaks, and soups fill out the menu. Western memorabilia and keno boards cover the walls. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Bistro Le Montrachet
3000 W. Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/732-5111
Over $25
Las Vegas
French

Soft peach lighting casts a warm glow over the tables, each adorned with fresh flowers, elaborate settings, and fine linen. Seasonal fare such as strudel-wrapped lobster, tenderloin of rabbit, broiled veal chops in Madeira, and venison with blackened mushrooms is featured, as are dazzling desserts. A refreshing sorbet is served between courses. The wine list has more than 400 selections. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues. No lunch.

Border Grill
3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/632-7394
Under $50
Las Vegas
Southwestern

The renowned hosts of TV's "Too Hot Tamales," Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, have debuted a counterpart of their stylish Santa Monica eatery in one of Las Vegas's glamorous new resorts - Mandalay Bay. They are among several chef-restaurateurs who have participated in James Beard dinners in Las Vegas and then opened restaurants here. Recommended appetizers include green-corn tamales, ceviche, and plantain empanadas; for lunch, try the turkey tostada, chipotle chicken, or grilled skirt steak; for dinner, the sautéed rock shrimp. Oaxacan mocha cake and key lime pie are among the tasty desserts. There are also margaritas, tacos, tamales, and quesadillas. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The Broiler
4111 Boulder Hwy., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/432-7777
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
American/Casual

Station Casinos has emerged as one of the front-running off-Strip casino organizations; its Boulder, Texas, and Sunset stations serve as neighborhood casino outposts of the original Palace Station. Branches of the Broiler, its good, inexpensive steak and seafood house, are found at both the Palace and Boulder stations. Both locations have excellent soups, breads, and a salad bar, which set the stage for medium-priced mesquite-grilled steaks, veal, and chicken. AE, D, MC, V.

Brown Derby
3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/891-7318
Over $25
Las Vegas
American

The movie-industry elite gathered at the landmark Hollywood original until a wrecking ball demolished it in 1985. The Las Vegas version, which opened in 1996, revives that Golden Era with art deco-style fixtures, lavish floral arrangements, and sketches of popular American movie stars adorning the dark-wood walls. The original Cobb salad, rack of lamb for two, fresh Maine lobsters, and lamb chops are found on a meat-laden menu that also includes prime rib and a 44-ounce porterhouse steak (which can be shared or taken on as a challenge by solo diners). AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Buffet of Bellagio
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-7111
Under $25
Las Vegas
Eclectic

In keeping with the entire resort, this is one of the most beautifully decorated buffet rooms in town, with an array of artifacts from all over the world adorning its walls. For cozier dining, the room is divided into many alcoves, one of which replicates an outdoor café with umbrellas. The tantalizing fare includes freshly baked focaccia and rotisserie-roasted game hens, brandied turkey breast, pork loin, chicken, lamb, and veal. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Cafe Roma
3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/731-7534
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Eclectic

Caesars Palace's 24-hr restaurant extends the hotel's Roman theme to a two-tiered dining room with large columns and gold walls. An American menu is available around the clock; offerings include calamari, New York steak sandwich, salmon burger, lobster, pizza, and pastas. There's also a Chinese menu at dinner. Portions are large and the atmosphere is pleasant. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Canal Street Grille
Orleans Hotel and Casino, 4500 W. Tropicana Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/365-7111
Over $25
Las Vegas
Cajun/Creole

This comfortable, New Orleans-style favorite serves steak and seafood, offering a few items with a Cajun and creole twist. Chilled gulf shrimp come with Louisiana cocktail sauce, and crab cakes are topped with whole-grain mustard. Cajun chicken breast is blackened with a roasted pepper sauce, and blackened rib eye is served with plum and barbecue sauces. Desserts include Bourbon Street cheesecake, bread pudding with whiskey sauce, and pecan pie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Caribbean Cabana
3190 W. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/873-3345
Under $50
Las Vegas
Caribbean

This has become more of a nightclub than a restaurant, and the menu has been modified accordingly. But those interested in grabbing a quick bite before hitting the dance floor can enjoy chicken wings, steaks, burgers, and pasta and chicken dishes. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Carnival World
3700 W. Flamingo Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/252-7777
Under $15
Las Vegas
Eclectic

The separate buffets-within-a-buffet here serve up fresh Mexican, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, American, and other ethnic specialties under one large and colorful roof. The centerpiece is the Mongolian barbecue, where you pick out your own meats and veggies to be stir-fried before your eyes on one of two sizzling hot grills. Hamburgers and french fries, fish-and-chips, barbecue, steaks cooked to order (the steaks cost extra), salads, desserts, and more are also available. Expect long lines at Carnival World, which is one of the most popular buffets in town. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Carson Street Cafe
129 E. Fremont St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/385-7111
Under $50
Las Vegas
American

Mirage Resorts Inc. does everything with class. Carson Street Cafe, the company's first 24-hr eatery, overlooks the Golden Nugget's pool area and has a stylish Southern plantation feel. It plays host to downtown's movers and shakers during weekday breakfast and lunch hours. Among the breakfast selections are eggs Benedict and Belgian waffles with strawberries. Standbys on the lunch and dinner menus are slabs of Texas barbecue ribs with fries, corn on the cob, and fresh homemade slaw. Try the prime rib at dinner. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Ceres
221 N. Rampart Blvd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/869-7777
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Seafood

The name is borrowed from the Roman goddess of agriculture and grain, but the restaurant run by the Regent Grand Spa Hotel quickly evolved into a seafood specialty house at lunch and dinner. It's a big room with a grand feeling, thanks to vaulted ceilings with exposed beams and walls of windows allowing a three-sided view of the outside grotto. The raw bar includes four types of oysters, sold individually as appetizers. The dinner menu offers a popular "mix and match" feature allowing diners to select one of four kinds of fish - swordfish, red snapper, sea bass, and mahimahi - and a choice of sauces such as ginger-soy or herb, lemon, and butter. Pricier house specialties include king crab legs and (for those who don't fancy fish) roasted chicken. Mornings feature more land-based breakfast fare. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Charlie Palmer Steak
3960 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/632-5120
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

The whole idea of putting a Four Seasons hotel inside Mandalay Bay was to have a quiet enclave "hidden" within a busy hotel-casino complex. Charlie Palmer got the idea right away. While his Aureole at Mandalay Bay is ostentatious, the nearby steak house is clubby and understated. The mahogany-lined room off the Four Seasons lobby serves only Black Angus that's been dry-aged for 21 days. There's tuna steak or caramelized chicken for those who don't eat beef. The lounge welcomes the revival of the cigar and features live entertainment on weekends. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Chicago Joe's
820 S. 4th St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/382-5637
Under $25
Las Vegas
Italian

Tucked away in a quiet residential area near downtown, this modest brick house with lace curtains and faded framed photographs offers a welcome respite from the glitzy casino hustle. Chicago Joe's (and the Collura family's recipes, which can be traced to Sicily) has been drawing informed tourists and Vegas locals for more than two decades. The marinara sauce, which tops generous portions of pasta, veal, and chicken, has just the right amount of bite. Order "The Works" on any lunchtime sandwich (rib-eye, sausage, or meatball) and savor a mound of sautéed green peppers, mushrooms, and onions - extra napkins are essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Chin's
3200 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/733-8899
Over $15
Las Vegas
Chinese

An upscale Chinese restaurant in the Fashion Show Mall, Chin's is bright and contemporary. The Hong Kong-style specialties include crispy chicken salad, deep-fried chicken in strawberry sauce, and steamed scallops with black beans on baby abalone shells. Try Chin's beef dish or the dim sum plate for lunch. Service is casual. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

China Grill
Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, 3590 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/632-7401
Over $25
Las Vegas
Chinese

Provocative postmodern architecture and appointments (think of the slightly surreal villains' headquarters in the '60s James Bond movies) set the stage for Asian dishes with a contemporary accent in this Mandalay Bay restaurant (one of four run by the China Grill group). The cuisine is as creative as the decor. Start with appetizers such as sake-cured salmon rolls, lobster pancakes, or lamb dumplings. Peking duck and calamari salads join the more pedestrian chicken salad on the salad list. The selection of main dishes leans toward seafood, with options such as barbecued salmon and Shanghai lobster with ginger, curry, and spinach. The menu also mixes offbeat entrées (grilled Australian lamb loin) with more conventional Chinese dishes (Szechuan beef). AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Chinois
3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/737-9700
Over $25
Las Vegas
Pan-Asian

The newest restaurant in the dining-rich Forum Shops at Caesars is yet another Wolfgang Puck creation. The strictly high-end Chinois has a Pacific Rim flair. The menu lineup changes daily, but you can bet that whatever's offered is among the most unusual fare in town: sea-scallop salad, sautéed foie gras, roasted venison loin, pan-roasted black cod, barbecued baby pork ribs, Shanghai lobster, and the like. Ask about the prix-fixe tasting menu, which allows you to sample a variety of dishes. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Coyote Café and Miller's Grill Room
3805 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/891-7349
Over $25
Las Vegas
Southwestern

Mark Miller has transplanted his self-named "gourmet southwestern" food to Las Vegas from the original Coyote Café in Santa Fe. The café out front offers an excellent alternative to the crowded buffets and coffee shops for breakfast through dinner. (Breakfast is a treat - you walk right in, sit right down, and are offered six choices, including huevos rancheros, quiche, and fruit and yogurt). Miller's Grill Room, the fine dining room adjacent to the café, offers an imaginative dinner menu. Appetizers like southwestern painted soup and tamales complement entrées such as Howlin' Chile Relleno and the Cowboy Rib Chop. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Cozymel's Mexican Grill
355 Hughes Center Dr., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/732-4833
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Mexican

This Dallas-based chain spotlights fresh seafood (spicy Yucatán sea bass steamed in banana leaves, grilled ahi tuna in a citrus marinade) in a festive atmosphere decorated with fishing nets and indoor palms for a south-of-the-border fishing resort feel. More familiar Mexican dishes (fajitas, enchiladas, and oversize tacos) are available, along with vegetarian dishes and eight flavored margaritas to get you into the beach-party spirit. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Delmonico Steakhouse
3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/733-5000
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

The ubiquitous Emeril Lagasse takes his inspiration for this restaurant from the legendary century-old Delmonico Steakhouse in New Orleans. Subdued modern decor helps create a feeling of calm in the popular dining room off the Venetian's casino floor, and friendly but professional staff members (including a sommelier) make diners feel eminently welcome. Creole-influenced dishes include baked jumbo gulf shrimp and various oyster-based creations. Delmonico chicken carved tableside for two, Emeril's double-cut pork chop, and bone-in rib eye steak are simply satisfying. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Dona Maria
910 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/786-6358
Under $25
Las Vegas
Tex-Mex

You might forget you're in Las Vegas after a few minutes in these relaxed and unpretentious cantinas - one near downtown and the other west of the Strip. All the Tex-Mex combinations and specials are good, but the best play here is to order the enchilada-style tamale (with red or green sauce), for which Dona Maria is justly renowned. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Dragon Noodle Company
3770 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/730-7967
$15 to $25
Las Vegas
Chinese

The family that turns out Italian food in the adjacent Market City Caffè does an equally enticing job with Chinese here, producing dim sum, sesame-crusted calamari, and seafood soup. There are special menus for Asian holidays, including the Autumn Moon Festival in late summer. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Eiffel Tower Restaurant
3655 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/948-6937
Over $50
Las Vegas
French

The signature restaurant of Paris Las Vegas is a room with a view, all right. What's special is not so much the 11-story height as the dramatic perch - about a third of the way up the hotel's half-scale Eiffel Tower replica, with views from all four glassed-in sides. A dedicated elevator whisks you straight to the room. The French-accented menu is varied but not overly cluttered. Appetizers include cold smoked salmon, sea scallops, and Russian caviar. Entrées are also weighted toward seafood dishes, including Atlantic salmon in pinot noir sauce and the house specialty, lobster thermidor. Meat offerings include roasted rack of lamb Provençale and filet mignon in a mushroom sautée; braised ballantine of quail en cocotte is among the poultry dishes. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Emeril's New Orleans Fish House
3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/891-7374
Over $25
Las Vegas
Seafood

A stone courtyard, French doors, and faux willow trees grace the entrance to chef Emeril Lagasse's Las Vegas dining spot. The original Emeril's is in New Orleans, and that Cajun feeling prevails here with cayenne-color walls, modern metalwork, and black-and-white photos of Louisiana fishermen. A sampling of Emeril's creative dishes includes Alabama rock-shrimp spring rolls, sweet barbecued salmon, double-cut pork chops with roasted pecan relish, and creole-seasoned tuna steak with foie gras. Make sure to try his wonderful banana cream pie. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Empress Court
Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/731-7110
Over $25
Las Vegas
Chinese

This venerable upscale Chinese eatery entered a new era when it relocated to a tower at Caesars Palace in late 1997. The food is exotic: abalone and shark-fin soup, Peking duck, sautéed scallops with macadamia nuts, and other delicacies can be found on the extensive menu that also features Malay, Thai, and Indonesian delicacies. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues.-Wed. No lunch.

Ferraro's Restaurant & Lounge
5900 W. Flamingo Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/364-5300
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Italian

Gino Ferraro's dependable Italian cuisine has been a favorite of Las Vegans since 1985. The dining room of this casual, off-Strip restaurant is trimmed with black lacquer and pink neon accents. Family recipes are featured, fresh breads and pastas are made on the premises, the wine list is extraordinary, the osso buco is magnifico, and Rosalba's tiramisu is the best in town. The service is good and prices are moderate, too. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Gandhi India's Cuisine
4080 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/734-0094
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Indian

If you're tired of all the cheap steak and prime-rib specials offered in town, try this alternative. Gandhi's offers a wide array of dishes from major regions of India; large thali platters range from milder North Indian tandoori dishes to spicier versions favored in the country's southern regions. A vegetarian thali includes samosas (vegetable fritters), alu Gobi (cauliflower and baked potatoes), and mattar panner (peas with homemade cottage cheese). Colorful Indian fabrics decorate this airy eatery; there's a small loft for more intimate dining. A $6.95 buffet lunch is served weekdays. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Garden Court Buffet
200 N. Main St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/387-0410
Under $15
Las Vegas
Eclectic

This buffet includes freshly prepared southwestern and Hawaiian dishes, along with other unusual specialties and more traditional items. The Victorian-style setting, with a central gazebo, lots of greenery, and mosaic tile floors, has made this the most popular downtown buffet. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Garduño's Chili Packing Co
2400 N. Rancho Dr., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/631-7000
Under $50
Las Vegas
Southwestern

"So hot it will make your ice melt" is the friendly warning at this colorfully cluttered Mexican and southwestern warehouse restaurant. The Garduño Family imported this spot from Albuquerque in 1994 along with ongoing shipments of fresh green chiles from Hatch, New Mexico. The chiles are used in many of the spicier dishes (excellent cheese-stuffed chiles rellenos and red-chile enchiladas); those with more timid taste buds should sample the milder seafood tacos and fajitas that arrive on a sizzling iron skillet. The salsa bar has 24 sauces ranging in heat scale from super mild to super hot. All meals come with sopaipillas (fluffy, deep-fried Mexican dough) that can be drenched with honey to cool off the chile burn. On Sunday a margarita brunch is served. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Gilley's Club
3120 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/794-8434
Under $25
Las Vegas
Barbecue

Versatile entertainer Mickey Gilley closed his famed (with a lot of help from the movie Urban Cowboy) nightclub in Pasadena, Texas, and opened a reasonable replica of it - with the renowned mechanical bull - in the revamped New Frontier Hotel and Gambling Hall on the Strip. Also known as Gilley's Saloon, Dance Hall, Bar-B-Que, the name says it all. The lively, Western-style club serves hearty platters of Rio Grande barbecue ribs, and Jack Daniels rib-eye steak among its entrées. (The New Frontier's ownership wants to demolish the hotel and build a new resort, but those plans are on hold for now, leaving Gilley's future up in the air.) AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Golden Steer
308 W. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/384-4470
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

In a town where restaurants come and go almost as quickly as visitors' cash, the longevity of this steak house, opened in 1962, is itself a recommendation. Through the years, folks have been coming to this San Francisco Barbary Coast-theme restaurant with red leather chairs, polished dark wood, and stained-glass windows for the huge slabs of well-prepared meat. Steak, ribs, and game are particularly popular. Although you wouldn't know it from the outside, the Steer is cavernous; however, lots of small, intimate rooms break up the space. A big fat yellow steer beckons from a sign out front. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Gordon Biersch Brewing Co
3987 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/312-5247
Under $25
Las Vegas
American

This import from Palo Alto, California, was an instant hit with both singles and the power-lunch crowd, thanks to its sheer size (14,000 square ft), trendy warehouse look (there are no old warehouses to retrofit in such a young city, so Las Vegas builds them from scratch), and its location in the Hughes Center office park (the local version of a real city's downtown). Glassed-off brewing kettles are the design centerpiece as well as the main attraction at the square center bar, which offers specialty brews such as Marzen and Hefeweizen, and seasonal offerings. The menu includes one of the city's most creative selections of appetizers, from garlic fries and pan-fried crab cakes with creole mustard rémoulade to "angry" prawns with andouille. Entres range from pasta and wood-oven pizza to veal chops with roasted pepper sauce and stir-fry dishes with a Pacific Rim influence. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Hamada of Japan
598 E. Flamingo Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/733-3005
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Japanese

No matter what type of Japanese food you're in the mood for, you'll find it here; all the bases are covered under one roof. There are separate sukiyaki and hibachi rooms and a sushi bar. Other Hamada branches are the smaller one at the Flamingo and a new one at the Regent, but the original is only minutes from the Strip. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

House of Blues
3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/632-7777
Under $25
Las Vegas
Cajun/Creole

Mandalay Bay is home to the seventh branch of this music-and-restaurant chain that's become a fixture in tourist-friendly cities. Like all the other Houses, this one is a gaudy, stylized version of a Delta shack with a deliberately ramshackle look (making it easy to find within the tropical-theme hotel). Inside the HOB compound - which includes a concert hall and the requisite gift shop as well as the restaurant - a giant artificial tree dominates a faux outdoor courtyard, and nearly every square inch of surface area surrounding the tables and booths is covered with authentic folk art. Cold beer goes well with just about everything on the menu, from the less-expensive smoked-pork or mesquite-grilled chicken sandwiches to the center-cut pork chop in bourbon sauce, Cajun meat loaf, crawfish and shrimp étouffée, or smoked half-chicken with mashed potatoes and root-beer gravy. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Hugo's Cellar
202 Fremont St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/385-4011
Over $25
Las Vegas
Contemporary

Every woman receives a red rose at this romantic downtown favorite. Popular with Las Vegas locals, Hugo's has been serving many repeat visitors since its opening in 1976. The staff here is attentive and the narrow, brick-lined room has deep, comfortable booths. For starters, try the hot rock appetizer: you cook marinated meats right at your table on a granite slab that is heated to 500°F. All meals include salad (a salad cart is brought right to your table), an intermezzo of raspberry sorbet served in a miniature ice-cream cone, and chocolate-dipped fruit with whipped cream for dessert. Entrées vary from veal T-bone to tasty raspberry chicken with whole berries to Indonesian-spiced rack of lamb. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Il Fornaio
3790 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/650-6500
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Italian

Cross the Central Park footbridge inside the wonderfully quirky New York-New York and you'll come to Il Fornaio, a cheery and bright Italian café. You can dine "outdoors" on the patio by the pond and watch the world go by, or opt for a table inside; the spacious, contemporary-style dining room has tile floors, tan-wood accents, and an exhibition kitchen where fresh fish, wood-oven pizzas, fettuccine with sausage, and spinach linguine with shrimp are prepared. Very good breads are baked twice daily, and you can buy loaves to go at the adjacent Panetteria. AE, MC, V.

La Barca Mexican Seafood Restaurant
953 E. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/657-9700
Under $25
Las Vegas
Mexican

If you want to eat where Mexicans eat and have no patience for Texas or California twists on Mexican food, this is the place for you. This busy spot inside the otherwise faded Commercial Center doesn't put chips and salsa on the table - that's a gringo tradition - and the emphasis is on seafood, not gloppy things covered with cheese. Fish and shrimp tacos are the most popular orders, along with the Seven Seas Soup-a mixture of seafood with implied medicinal benefits. The Whaler is a 45-ounce shrimp cocktail that creates an instant party. Mariachi bands enhance the weekend atmosphere. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Thurs.

La Rotisserie
3655 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/946-4433 or
Over $50
Las Vegas
French

A beautiful two-story room inside Paris Las Vegas showcases rotisserie meats cooked in an open kitchen. But arriving diners aren't likely to notice the kitchen activity until they've taken in the oval Tiffany glass ceiling that's backlighted from on high, the symmetrical curving staircases leading to second-floor tables, and the custom banquettes upholstered with art prints by Chagall, Renoir, and other masters. Appetizers include the very French fricassee of snails with chanterelles and pinot noir. Main-course choices include rotisserie prime rib, marinated pork ribs, and spit-roasted leg of veal. For non-carnivores, choices include roasted Maine lobster, whole sea bass, and a grilled vegetable platter. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

La Scala
3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/891-7220
Over $50
Las Vegas
Italian

An upscale eatery adjacent to the less expensive Tre Visi, La Scala evokes the aura of the famous Milan opera house for which it is named. The mood is set by gentle waterfalls and operatic background music, plus orchestral instruments on one wall and La Scala opera posters on another. Many of the wines imported from Italy are exclusive (in the United States) to the restaurant. The menu changes daily and uses fresh ingredients from around the world. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Lawry's The Prime Rib
4043 Howard Hughes Pkwy., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/893-2223
Over $25
Las Vegas
American

In a city famous for low-priced prime rib specials, Lawry's is an upscale, art deco-style palace dedicated to the pursuit of excellence in the guise of slow-roasted, aged prime rib. The dining room, with parquet floors and dark-wood trim, is staffed by white-clad carvers who roll gleaming silver-domed carts up to your table. Atlantic lobster tails and a daily fresh fish entrée are available for those who don't eat meat. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Le Cirque
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-8100
Over $50
Las Vegas
French

This sumptuous restaurant, a branch of the New York City landmark, is one of Bellagio's prime dining spots. The well-heeled diners here seem to know their food and look right at home in the mahogany-lined room, which is all the more opulent for its size - in a city of mega-everything, Le Cirque seats only 80. Even with a view of the hotel's lake and its mesmerizing fountain show, you'll only have eyes for your plate when your server presents to-die-for dishes such as sea scallops layered with black truffles and wrapped in spinach and puff pastry. The wine cellar contains more than 500 premium selections representing every wine-producing region of the world; caviar is available by the ounce ($30-$55). Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Jacket and tie. No lunch.

Le Village Buffet
3655 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/946-4433
Under $25
Las Vegas
French

Most Las Vegas buffets now feature separate serving stations, each offering different ethnic fare (Mexican, Chinese, etc.). The Paris Las Vegas buffet gives this convention a novel spin - each of the five stations here is said to represent a different province of France. That said, some of the offerings are still fairly universal: roasted chicken and Alaskan king crab legs among them. Not typical is the elaborately themed room, a Disneyesque village with cottage facades and a vaulted ceiling with a painted blue sky. There's usually a line at this buffet, which is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Lillie Langtry's
129 E. Fremont St., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/385-7111
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Chinese

This restaurant comes close to turning out the finest Chinese food you'll find this side of Canton. The dishes are Cantonese with a little Szechuan spiciness. Start out with the great combination plate. The black-pepper steak will send charcoal aficionados to culinary heaven, and the almond chicken is a classic. Don't miss the dragon-eye fruit for dessert. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Lindo Michoacán
2625 E. Desert Inn Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/735-6828
Under $50
Las Vegas
Mexican

Lindo means pretty, Michoacán is a state in central Mexico. Gavier Baragas, the congenial owner and host of this colorful cantina named for his native state, presents outstanding specialties that he learned to cook while growing up. Try the delicious appetizer made with cactus, onions, cilantro, tomatoes, and jalapeños. Offered as a nightly special is the cabrito birria de chivo (roasted goat with red mole sauce). Many menu items are named for the owner's relatives, including flautas Mama Chelo (corn tortillas filled with chicken). AE, D, MC, V.

Lutèce
3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/414-2220
Over $50
Las Vegas
French

Eberhard Müller brings his famed New York eatery to the Venetian and with it a bit of the Guggenheim Museum, suggested in the spiraling walls of the circular, postmodern dining room. (For those who find the interior too intense, there's also dining on an outdoor patio with views of the Strip.) The bill of fare features modern French dishes. Among the appetizers are lobster medallions with port wine-roasted grapes, and sautéed foie gras with blood oranges poached in Sauternes. Entrées include roasted monkfish and medallions of venison with baked apples. Those who want to leave the driving up to chef Robert Kirchhoff can go with the seasonal prix-fixe menu, which offers entrées such as crisp black bass with lobster sauce or rack of lamb. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Luxor Steakhouse
3900 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/262-4778
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

This stunning restaurant, with its classic cherry-wood bar and walls reminiscent of the revered Regency Room in the Sands, is divided into several rooms and alcoves to afford intimate dining. Hand-painted Egyptian scenes adorn the walls and Egyptian statues grace the room. Whole stuffed artichokes, clams casino, oysters Rockefeller, and hearty Portobello mushrooms filled with seafood, spinach, and Gorgonzola are among the favorite appetizers. Served with black bean soup or a dinner salad, succulent entrée selections include the outstanding, thinly sliced Chicken Breast Giza, filled with couscous and spinach and served with pistachio nuts and sun-dried tomatoes. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Margarita's Mexican Cantina
3120 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/794-8200
Under $25
Las Vegas
Tex-Mex

Turquoise and pink tiles, hardwood chairs, and pink and purple neon along the ceiling give this restaurant a southwestern feel. Freshly made tortillas are served as an appetizer with bean dip and salsa. The cuisine is basic Tex-Mex: big portions of tacos, enchiladas, and chimichangas. For dessert try the Burrito Tropical, a deep-fried tortilla stuffed with fresh fruit, ice cream on the side, and a rich sauce. Note: the future of this restaurant was uncertain at press time. The New Frontier was slated to be imploded, but those plans are on hold for the time being. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Market City Caffe
3770 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/730-7967
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Italian

Recipes passed down through generations are the centerpiece for this lively restaurant owned and operated by a family with successful eateries in southern California. There's a stunning wine list and a spectacular antipasto bar. The menu includes hearty pizzas, pastas, salads, and panini (sandwiches), plus spaghetti alla puttanesca (with a tomato-anchovy sauce). AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Marrakech
3900 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/737-5611
$25 to $50
Las Vegas
Moroccan

Sprawl out on soft floor cushions and feel like a pampered pasha as belly dancers shake it up in a cozy Middle Eastern-style "tent" with a fabric-covered ceiling and eye-catching mosaics. The prix-fixe ($24.95) feast is a six-course affair that you eat with your hands: shrimp scampi, vegetable salad, lentil soup, Cornish game hen, lamb shish kebab, and a tasty dessert pastilla, which is baked phyllo dough layered with apples, peaches, and pecans. Algerian wines flow freely in this upbeat atmosphere where servers wear Moroccan robes and patrons are invited to join the belly dancers if they feel the urge. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Mary's Diner
5111 W. Boulder Hwy., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/454-8073
Under $25
Las Vegas
American/Casual

The folks who run the Boyd hotels (California, Fremont, Sam's Town, and Stardust) can spot a good American trend as well as anyone, and they responded quickly when the diner craze arrived. At Mary's, jukeboxes are on the tables, the music is from the 1950s, and an old-fashioned soda fountain serves up milk shakes, sodas, banana splits, and ice-cream sundaes. Daily blue-plate specials start at $4.99. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Mayflower Cuisinier
4750 W. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/870-8432
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Chinese

You'll find creative Chinese dishes with Californian and pan-Asian accents and an occasional French flair on the progressive and wide-ranging menu at this off-Strip eatery. Try the Asian Portobello mushroom burrito, peppercorn-crusted ahi tuna with wasabi-soy sauce, or Mongolian lamb chops with creamy cilantro sauce. The small selection of pastas - try the Chinese pasta with shrimp, scallops, and salmon - is bolstered by high-quality soups and gourmet desserts. There's also a patio area. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

McCormick & Schmick's
335 Hughes Center Dr., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/836-9000
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Seafood

This terrific Portland-based eatery is happily settled into the Row at Hughes Center. The gleaming restaurant with a bar and patio offers a huge menu of appetizers, oysters on the half shell, salads, lunch sandwiches, and imaginatively prepared fresh fish dishes (the selection changes daily). Popular choices are Oregon Dungeness crab cakes with red-pepper aioli, Louisiana catfish with chipotle pepper sauce, Mexican yellowtail tuna with pepper balsamic vinaigrette, and Alaskan troll king salmon with pinot noir sauce roasted on a cedar plank. Desserts include berry sherry trifle and walnut candied upside-down apple pie à la mode. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Mikado
3400 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/791-7111
Over $25
Las Vegas
Japanese

Only a few steps from the Mirage's casino, this restaurant provides an oasis from the gambling madness. It's relatively soothing if you're seated far from the door, near the placid streams, delicate gardens, and soft murals. The menu offers standard Japanese fare: steak, chicken, and shrimp prepared teppanyaki (chopped, diced, and barbecued on a hot grill) or tempura style; yaki-tori (grilled beef in a thick-noodle soup); plus sushi and sashimi from a sushi bar in the corner. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Mizuno's Japanese Steak House
3801 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/739-2713
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Japanese

Lobster, steak, and chicken entrées are sliced, diced, and grilled at your teppan table by chefs wielding flashy knives and witty tongues. Quality teriyaki and seafood dishes are other pluses at this authentic Japanese restaurant. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Mon Ami Gabi
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/944-4224
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
French

The Lettuce Entertain You company's French steak house won the highest-profile location inside Paris Las Vegas. It's the rare restaurant with the claim to sidewalk dining on the Strip; parasol-covered tables are no more than 20 feet from cars waiting for the light to change at the Flamingo Road intersection. For those who prefer a less lively atmosphere, a glassed-in atrium just off the street still conveys an outdoor feel, and there are still-quieter dining rooms inside. The dining rooms are adorned with chandeliers dramatically suspended from three stories above; the lounge features numbered wine racks running from floor to ceiling. The specialty of house is steak frites, offered four different ways: classic, au poivre, bordelaise, and Roquefort. There are fish and poultry dishes as well, and plats du jour, such as roast duck and coq au vin, on given days of the week. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential.

Monte Carlo Room
3145 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/733-4444
Over $25
Las Vegas
French

Overlooking the lush grounds surrounding the pool area of the Desert Inn, this romantic rose-garden setting is perfect for enjoying gourmet cuisine served on Limoges china (many of the pieces are from the Fabergé collection). Among the appetizers are beluga caviar and vodka served on an ice carving rolled out on a flower-decorated cart. Perfectly prepared entrées - such as sautéed salmon with spicy garlic sauce and roasted duck à l'orange with a touch of vanilla - are accompanied by pommes soufflés in a china shell. Chef de cuisine François Meulien's $50 degustation menu begins with onion soup or a seasonal salad and ends with chocolate soufflé with whipped cream. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues.-Wed. No lunch.

Mr. Lucky's 24/7
4455 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-5000
Under $25
Las Vegas
American/Casual

The hippest casino coffee shop in Las Vegas is inside the Hard Rock Hotel, where banks of slot machines bear the likenesses of Jimi Hendrix and Sid Vicious. Clean modern lines, light wooden floors, and vintage rock-and-roll posters highlight this bubbly, circular café. Menu items range from vegetable omelets and entrée salads to pizza and pasta. More filling options include burgers and fries, and steak, grilled salmon, and baby-back ribs. The garlic mashed potatoes are superb. It's open 24 hours, seven days a week - hence the numbers in the name. Beware: the music is loud. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Napa
3700 W. Flamingo Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/252-7777
Over $25
Las Vegas
French

The crown jewel of the Rio, this striking, earth-tone establishment showcases chef Jean-Louis Palladin's contemporary French cuisine, complemented by more than 700 wines stocked in the underground wine cellar. An especially outstanding entrée is the eggplant stuffed with grilled lamb. Other menu items include salmon, monkfish, steaks, and veal chops grilled over wood. Napa is a memorable choice when price is no object - the chicken potpie here, for example, goes for $37. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Nevada Nick's-An Original Steakhouse
221 N. Rampart Blvd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/309-7080
Over $25
Las Vegas
Steak

This rustic, gas-lit steak house has a classic American West look and an open kitchen with wood-fired ovens. On the menu you'll find pizzas, steaks, prime rib, chicken, duck breast, pork loin, and seafood such as crab cakes and roasted Maine lobster. Among the irresistible desserts are chocolate with champagne zabaglione, white-chocolate bread pudding, strawberry dumplings with Jack Daniel's cream, and Nick's praline brûlée. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Nobu
4455 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-5000
Over $25
Las Vegas
Japanese

James Beard Foundation Award-winning chef Nobu Matsuhisa of New York, London, Aspen, and Beverly Hills fame has replicated the decor and menu of his Manhattan Nobu (in the trendy TriBeCa neighborhood) in this sparkling restaurant with bamboo pillars, a seaweed wall, and wooden birch trees. Imaginative specialties include spicy sashimi, caramelized sweet miso-marinated black cod, red-bean and green-tea ice cream, mochi (rice) balls, and a bento box with warm chocolate soufflé. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

North Beach Cafe
2605 S. Decatur Blvd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/247-9530
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Italian

This restaurant reflects the flavor of San Francisco's famous North Beach Italian neighborhood. The menu highlights the northern Italian cuisine of Genoa, a Mediterranean coastal town where seafood is cooked in a light tomato sauce. Empanadas Argentina, tasty meat pies with hard-boiled eggs, raisins, and green olives, are popular appetizers, as are fried calamari and steamed clams and mussels. If you feel like pasta, try the North Beach Special - linguine with grilled chicken breast, eggplant, and zucchini. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Olives
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-8181
Over $15
Las Vegas
Mediterranean

Flanked by the dazzling Via Bellagio boutique shops, this Mediterranean ristorante created by chef-owner Todd English combines the best of his James Beard Foundation Award-winning, Boston-area Olives and Figs restaurants. A patio overlooking the Bellagio's spectacular lake is perfect for alfresco dining. Among the exquisite dishes are appetizers of beef carpaccio on crisp Roquefort polenta, and grilled squid and octopus in a chickpea garlic vinaigrette. Entrées include ricotta ravioli with hot Italian sausage, and cod cakes with lobster rémoulade and Boston baked beans. The pièce de résistance is a hearty paella Olivacious in a chorizo-saffron broth with short-grain rice served in a gleaming copper pot. The roasted banana tiramisu is tantalizing. English also has a superb ristorante, Onda, in the Mirage. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Osteria del Circo
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-8150
Over $25
Las Vegas
Italian

With a view of the lake, this is one of Bellagio's prime dining spots. The colorful Circo, with its velveteen harlequin-patterned seats and whimsically decorated chandeliers, serves home-style Tuscan food. Among the appetizers are prosciutto with seasonal fruit. The Tuscan fish soup is made with lobster, prawns, calamari, monkfish, clams, and mussels. The homemade pastas include ravioli with spinach and sheep's milk ricotta in a butter-sage or fresh tomato sauce, and spinach potato dumplings with Romano cheese and thyme. Caviars by the ounce ($30-$55) are offered for dinner. The wine cellar contains more than 500 premium selections representing every wine-producing region of the world. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

P. F. Chang's China Bistro
4165 S. Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/792-2207 or 702/968-8885
Under $50
Las Vegas
Chinese

"Americanized" versions of Chinese classics are served at this high-energy off-Strip eatery where waiters and waitresses wear casual white oxford shirts, ties, and jeans. Chinese sculptures and murals are offset by high-tech lighting fixtures and a modern, earth-tone color scheme. The 60-item menu ranges from basic sweet-and-sour pork and barbecued spareribs to more adventurous lemon-pepper shrimp and Chang's spicy chicken. Vegetarians will find plenty of noodle, rice, and vegetable dishes at this East-meets-West hot spot. A second location serves the booming northwest part of the city. AE, MC, V.

Pamplemousse
400 E. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/733-2066
Over $25
Las Vegas
French

This restaurant was named on a whim by late singer - and restaurant regular - Bobby Darrin (pamplemousse means grapefruit in French). The dominant color here is burgundy, orchestral music is played over the stereo system, and the food is classic French. Because the entrées change daily, there is no printed menu; instead, the waiter recites the bill of fare. Specialties of the house include roast duckling with cranberry and Chambord sauce, and Norwegian salmon with curry sauce. All dinners include salad, bread, steamed vegetables, and crudités. This room is small and popular with the convention trade, so be sure to make reservations as far in advance as possible. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Parian
221 N. Rampart Blvd., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/869-7777
Over $25
Las Vegas
American

American classics are presented on serving dishes from around the globe at this sedate and traditionally formal dining room, which offers views of an outdoor garden area. Parian is the restaurant for the Regent Grand Palms, one of two separately named hotel towers that make up the Regent Las Vegas project in the booming master-planned development of Summerlin. An appetizer billed as a "Taste of Wine Country" offers Yountville goat cheese and Napa Valley greens in a roasted tomato vinaigrette. Entrées include the "Maine Event," a Maine lobster and shiitake mushroom risotto, and rack of Colorado lamb on tomato eggplant relish. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Peking Market
3555 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/733-3111
$15 to $50
Las Vegas
Chinese

A tropical aquarium, pastoral murals, and oversize tables accent this Chinese restaurant that serves such dishes as moo goo gai pan (chicken stir-fried with garlic, mushrooms, and cabbage), orange-peel beef, and, for dessert, fried banana fritters with whipped cream. The Market's attentive staff speaks Vietnamese, Thai, and several Chinese dialects to serve the specific needs of its Asian customers. Off-the-menu orders are also welcome. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Picasso
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/693-8105
Over $50
Las Vegas
Continental

At this restaurant adorned with an array of the venerable artist's original works, versatile chef Julian Serrano prepares the regional cuisine of France and Spain. Appetizers include poached oysters with caviar and sauce vermouth, and sausage of fresh lobster. For an entrée try the roasted Atlantic turbot with carpaccio of potatoes and oxtail jus. Desserts include warm pumpkin and walnut cake with pumpkin seed-brittle ice cream and cranberry syrup, and hazelnut mousse timbale with Frangelico ice cream. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. No lunch.

Piero Selvaggio Valentino and P.S. Italian Grill
3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV, USA
Phone: 702/414-3000
Over $15
Las Vegas
Italian

The Italian Grill is the busy front room of this entry on the Venetian's convention-friendly "restaurant row." The place has a retro-hip '50s-coffee-shop decor and a casual, urban vibe. Diners choose either appetizer or entrée portions of pasta, or heartier fare such as a New York steak in Tuscan barbecue sauce or pork chops marinated in apple cider. The Valentino rooms in the rear have a much quieter tone, with linen-swathed tables and opera music. The menu offers four meat and four seafood dishes, among them Maine scallops with a tomato-horseradish sauce and fresh oregano pesto, and roasted chicken breast wrapped in smoked bacon with red-wine sauce, polenta, and spinach. For an all-out experience, go for the prix-fixe seafood tasting menu or the Chef Extravaganza, which can include buffalo steak with Marsala wine or roasted squab in a red-wine sauce. AE, D, DC, MC, V.