Helsinki is reputed to have the best Russian restaurants in the Nordic region, and the Nevski is foremost among them. It sets high standards in the preparation of czarist-era dishes, with an emphasis on game. Try the breast of willow grouse baked in a clay pot, traditional roe-filled blintzes, or borscht. Among the more extraordinary offerings is roast bear in a pot, which must be ordered in advance. Set at the edge of the harbor and marketplace, Nevski has all the trappings you'd expect to find in a czar's dining hall - heavy draperies, glistening samovars, potted palms, and crisp linen tablecloths. AE, DC, MC, V.

Amadeus
Sofiankatu 4, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/626-676
Over EUR34
Helsinki
Continental

The elegant decor in this old town house between Senaatintori and the South Harbor matches the czarist architecture of the neighborhood. The game, reindeer, and mushroom dishes have made it a favorite of Helsinki gourmets. The two dining rooms are tinted in soft browns and pinks. As an appetizer, try the slightly salted salmon with vegetable tartare, and as a main course, one of the many game dishes. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Babushka Ira
Uudenmaankatu 28, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/680-1405
EUR25 to EUR34
Helsinki
Russian

The cozy atmosphere and authentic Russian dishes here will make you think you're at Grandma Irina's. Red damask curtains and paintings brought from St. Petersburg form the perfect backdrop for enjoying excellent selyanka (a hearty soup of meat, cabbage, and winter vegetables topped with sour cream), pelmeny (meat ravioli with sour cream), and blini (thin pancakes) - all prepared traditionally. DC, MC, V. No lunch summer weekends.

Bellevue
Rahapajank. 3, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/179-560
EUR25 to EUR34
Helsinki
Russian

The spare lines of Bellevue belie its real age - it has been around since 1917, serving imaginative dishes inspired by Russian cuisine of yore and Finnish country fare. In a room with pale table linens, wood-and-plush seats, and tremendous modern paintings, you can sample the innovative meat dishes and blinis for which the Bellevue is famous. As an appetizer, try the salted cucumbers topped with sour cream and honey, or shashlik - lamb fillet served with mushroom rice. The plush interior of this elegant town house has many shining samovars, but only some of them are functional; each table has lighted candles. Appropriately, the restaurant is tucked behind the Uspenski Cathedral. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends and in July.

China
Annank. 25, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/640-258
Under EUR13
Helsinki
Chinese

One of the city's oldest Chinese restaurants, this place specializes in Cantonese fare. Beef, pork, and chicken dishes are served, along with an unusual pike perch with sweet-and-sour sauce. The Peking duck is recommended but must be ordered two days in advance. AE, DC, MC, V.

Havis Amanda
Unionink. 23, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/666-882
Over EUR34
Helsinki
Seafood

Across the street from the Havis Amanda statue, its namesake restaurant specializes in seafood dishes. Several different fixed menus are available for lunch and dinner. Try the flamed cloudberry crepes with ice cream for dessert. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. except in summer.

Kanavaranta
Kanavaranta 3, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/622-2633
Over EUR34
Helsinki
Scandinavian

Founded by award-winning chefs in a historical building on the Katanajanokka quay and downstairs from the Helsinki Culinary Institute, this innovative restaurant specializes in seasonal fare incorporating fresh Finnish ingredients. Among the special are the rosemary lamb with pistachio-and-tarragon-flavored fresh bread crumbs and browned butter, or fried salmon with a seasonal mushroom sauce. The rustic atmosphere of the main dining room contrasts nicely with the sophistication of the cooking, which can be seen through an open kitchen. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. and in summer.

Kosmos
Kalevank. 3, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/647-255
EUR25 to EUR34
Helsinki
Contemporary

Just a short walk from Stockmann's, this restaurant has become a lunchtime favorite among businesspeople working nearby. Come evening, artists and journalists take over. Among the specialties are sweetbreads with a sauce of curry, cream, and port, and mutton chops stuffed with ground veal and olives and served with garlic potatoes. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Kynsilaukka
Fredrikink. 22, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/651-939
EUR13 to EUR25
Helsinki
Contemporary

Garlic dominates at this rustic restaurant that's one of Helsinki's most imaginative - the place even serves garlic beer. The food is fresh and beautifully presented, often served by the three young owner-chefs themselves. The seafood bouillabaisse is superb, as are the cold marinated reindeer, garlic cream soup, and lamb pot. For dessert, try the pancakes with cloudberry sauce. All portions are served in two sizes. The prix-fixe lunch menu is a good buy. AE, DC, MC, V.

Maxill
Korkeavuorenk. 4, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/638-873
EUR13 to EUR25
Helsinki
Cafes

Helsinki's café boom and an increasing demand for Continental-style bars have inspired this hybrid that serves the best omelet in town. It's frequented by the young, trendy clientele of this lively street south of the city center. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pamir
John Stenbergin ranta 4, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/39351
Over EUR34
Helsinki
Finnish

On the second floor of the Strand Inter-Continental Hotel, this intimate restaurant may not offer terrific views of the adjacent waterfront, but good service and fine fare make up for it. Pamir's accent is on Finnish game and fish dishes. Renowned chef Pertti Lipäinen prepares superb reindeer liver, smoked fillet of reindeer, stuffed hare, fillet of duck, and rainbow trout. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends. No lunch.

Raffaello
Aleksanterink. 46, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/6844-0718
EUR13 to EUR25
Helsinki
Italian

In the heart of Helsinki's Wall Street, this cozy Italian restaurant with redbrick walls, parquet floors, and decorative frescoes has a reputation for friendly service, reasonable prices, and tasty pasta, salad, and meat dishes. Grilled Cajun beefsteak with garlic potatoes and minted chicken breast with rice are among the best choices. AE, DC, MC, V.

Ravintola Perho
Mechelinkatu 7, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/580-7860
Under EUR13
Helsinki
Finnish

Helsinki's catering school operates this brasserie-style restaurant decorated in pine. The emphasis is on Finnish food, particularly salmon and reindeer. Low prices and a good location - just west of Mannerheimintie - make it a favorite. AE, DC, MC, V.

Ravintola Torni
Kalevank. 5, Hotel Torni, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/131-131
EUR25 to EUR34
Helsinki
Finnish

The California-inspired Finnish cuisine at this gourmet establishment - the main restaurant of the central Torni Hotel - varies during special theme weeks. Special takes on Finnish mainstays include roasted perch and fried whitefish with cheese potatoes, and blackened salmon. The decor has reverted to the 1930s style of the original building. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Restaurant Palace
Eteläranta 10, Palace Hotel, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/1345-6787
Over EUR34
Helsinki
Finnish

This outstanding hotel restaurant has a magnificent view of the South Harbor. Chef Markus Maulavirta's specialty is French and Finnish fare, including such creations as jellied roe of vendace (a type of whitefish) with sour cream-dill sauce, or reindeer fillet and tongue with rowanberry sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends. No lunch July.

Savoy
Eteläespl. 14, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/176-571
Over EUR34
Helsinki
Finnish

With its airy, Alvar Aalto-designed, functionalist dining room overlooking the Esplanade Gardens, the Savoy is a frequent choice for business lunches and was also Finnish statesman Marshal Karl Gustaf Mannerheim's favorite; he is rumored to have introduced the Vorschmack (minced lamb and anchovies) recipe. Savoy's menu includes the ubiquitous reindeer fillet, as well as such old-fashioned Finnish home-cooked dishes as meatballs, grilled herring, and läski soosi (fried fatty pork in brown sauce).

Sipuli
Kanavaranta 3, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/179-900
EUR25 to EUR34
Helsinki
Contemporary

Sipuli stands at the foot of the Russian Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral and gets its name - meaning onion - from the church's golden onionlike cupolas. In this warehouse building dating from the 19th century, the redbrick walls and dark-wood panels are enhanced by a skylight with a spectacular view of the cathedral. For starters try the escargots in sherry and Gorgonzola sauce, and for the main course the smoked fillet of pike perch with salmon mousse and gravy sauce, or noisettes of reindeer topped with game sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Villa Thai
Bulevardi 28, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/680-2778
EUR25 to EUR34
Helsinki
Thai

The staff at this reataurant near Helsinki's shopping district dresses in Thai silks, and diners can chose between Western and Thai-style seating. The prawn curry with coconut milk and pineapple is a house specialty. AE, DC, MC, V.

Wellamo
Vyök. 9, Helsinki, Finland
Phone: 09/663-139
EUR13 to EUR25
Helsinki
Finnish

Unbeatable for cheerful atmosphere, intimacy, and local flavor, this well-kept secret is tucked away in the shadows of the masterpieces of Katajanokka, not far from the icebreaker quay. Prices are reasonable for a simple but hearty menu; don't miss the fried Baltic herring entrée, and the quirky dessert fried Camembert. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.