Crowded, noisy, smoky, and gruff, this clattering white-tile bistro is anchored by its ancient beams and worn zinc bar. The simple dishes include andouillettes, boudin noir, longeole with lentils, and the namesake pigs' feet, served grilled, poached, or boned. AE, DC, MC, V.

Bistrot du Boeuf Rouge
17 rue Alfred-Vincent, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7327537
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
French

A Belle Epoque cash register weighs down the bar, and the menu groans with rich, unadulterated Lyonnaise cuisine at this brisk, brass-accented bistro. Boudin noir with apples, homemade rillettes, andouillettes, and féra fillets are served with a light gratin dauphinois; the tender filet mignon barely requires a knife. Try the chestnut and citrus mousse or a silken flan au caramel for dessert. Each dish arrives for inspection on a decorated silver tray. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Bistrot du Boucher
15 av. Pictet-de-Rochemont, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7365636
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
Steak

There's no question as to what dominates the menu here - the waiters wear butcher's aprons. The sign over the kitchen door reads beware of cow, but there's nothing to fear. Aperitifs are on the house, each dish is presented at your table prior to carving, and the steak tartare is mixed to your taste. Cow posters, figurines, and paintings add a sense of humor to the dignified Art Nouveau woodwork, bright tiles, and stained-glass ceiling. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Brasserie Lipp
Confédération-Centre, 8 rue de la Confédération, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3111011
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
French

Green and white tiles, mustard-yellow ceilings, warm wood, and bustling waiters in ankle-length white aprons bring this Parisian clone to life. Genevois intellectuals of all stripes linger over classic brasserie fare such as choucroûte (sauerkraut), veal blanquette, and heaping platters of seafood. The odd location, on the third floor of a slick shopping center, is balanced by a spectacular summer terrace at the foot of the Old Town. The kitchen stays open from noon until 12:45 AM (later than most). AE, DC, MC, V.

Café du Grütli
16 rue du Général-Dufour, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3294495
Under 30 SF
Geneva
Contemporary

Black-clad filmmakers, actors, photographers, dancers, and students from the nearby Université de Genève congregate in this sun-soaked, smoky restaurant on the ground floor of the Grütli arts center. Crème brûlée spiked with pistachio follows salmon and perch carpaccio or penne with Gorgonzola and vodka, and there are lots of daily specials. You can even soak up a bit of culture - undubbed classic films are screened in the basement, and the artwork on the walls is for sale. AE, DC, MC, V.

Chez Léo
9 rond-point de Rive, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3115307
Under 30 SF
Geneva
Italian

Intense, trendy locals descend on this tiny bentwood-and-posters corner bistro for lunch, then linger over coffee. Look for a variety of homemade ravioli and tortellini, veal piccata in a raspberry-vinegar or mustard sauce, and a noteworthy tarte au citron (lemon tart). MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.

Domaine de Châteauvieux
Peney-Dessus, Satigny, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7531511
Over 90 SF
Geneva
French

Philippe Chevrier presides over an outstanding kitchen at the heart of the canton's wine country; he emphasizes seasonal dishes and top local vintages. Look for asparagus dishes in spring, seafood in summer, game come October, and a special truffle menu in winter. Antique wine presses crown the old stone courtyard; the dining room is a charming space with ancient beams, warm stone, and landscape paintings. The summer terrace is particularly lovely. Take a boat up the Rhône to Peney or drive 10 minutes from Geneva. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon.

Hôtel-de-Ville
39 Grand-Rue, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3117030
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
French

Behind its somewhat bedraggled lace curtains, this smoky, steamy brasserie packs in civil servants and art dealers, who settle onto wooden banquettes for typical Genevois filets de perches (perch), longeole, mussels, and beautifully garnished game platters in season. It serves until midnight. AE, DC, MC, V.

Jeck's Place
14 rue de Neuchâtel, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7313303
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
Pan-Asian

Even by Geneva's standards, this halogen-lighted, peach-accented restaurant presents a staggering mix of cultures. Owner Jeck Tan, a native of Singapore and a graduate of the Swiss Hotel School, greets you warmly in English at the door and presents a menu written in Malay, Chinese, Thai, and French. The food, whether it's smooth deep-fried bean curd with peanut sauce, chicken in a delicate green curry, fried mee hoon vermicelli, or spicy roast duck au diable, is excellent. The service is irreproachable. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.

L'Echalotte
17 rue des Rois, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3205999
Under 30 SF
Geneva
French

Polished wood banquettes, good food, and low prices draw local artists and journalists here; the seasonal menu stretches from vegetarian options to abats. Buttery crème de courge (pumpkin soup), the signature onglet a l'echalotte (steak in shallot butter), and a sinful chocolate terrine are served promptly with casual flair. MC, V. Closed weekends.

L'Opera Bouffe
5 av. de Frontenex, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7366300
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
Contemporary

This trendy spot serves traditional bistro food with a contemporary twist, courtesy of the Syrian chef. The setting is casual-chic, with wine stacked floor to ceiling and opera trilling in the background. Don't pass up the warm tarte Tatin (caramelized apple tart) with Gruyère cream. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. No lunch Sat.

La Favola
15 rue Calvin, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3117437
60 SF to 90 SF
Geneva
Italian

Run by a Ticinese chef from Locarno, this quirky little restaurant may be the most picturesque in town. The tiny dining room, at the top of a vertiginous spiral staircase, strikes a delicate balance between rustic and fussy, with lace curtains, embroidered tablecloths, polished parquet, and a rough-beam ceiling sponge-painted in shades of ocher and rust. The food mixes simplicity and chic: Homemade pastas melt on the tongue, the carpaccio is paper-thin, and the tiramisu is divine. No credit cards. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

La Perle du Lac
126 rue de Lausanne, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/9091020
60 SF to 90 SF
Geneva
French

The dining room stays open from February to December, but this chalet-style former guesthouse in Geneva's Right Bank waterfront park comes into its own in summer. The large flowered terrace looks straight out over the lake at Mont Blanc; the Mouettes Genevoises boats dock right in front. The French-accented seasonal menu highlights fish such as rouget barbet (red mullet), turbot, and cabillaud (cod). The list of French wines is exhaustive. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Jan.

Le Béarn
4 quai de la Poste, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3210028
Over 90 SF
Geneva
French

French chef Jean-Paul Goddard has been building his restaurant's reputation for modern, light, and creative seasonal cuisine since 1979. Duck-breast carpaccio with apricot chutney, rabbit with sage, subtle but sweet tarragon sorbet, and a spectacular truffle soufflé are highlights. Be sure to consider the dessert cart and the French-Swiss wine list. The warm, sunken Empire-style dining room fills with bankers at midday. AE, DC, MC, V. Oct.-Apr., closed Sun., no lunch Sat. May-Sept., closed weekends.

Le Chat Botté
13 quai du Mont-Blanc, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7166920
Over 90 SF
Geneva
French

Richard Cressac's kitchen does not stray far from the French classics, but it does them well. Foie gras with truffles, Bresse chicken, veal in cream sauce, and warm chocolate pear tart are served in a discreet, understated dining room or, for the ultimate summer dining experience, on the lakefront balcony-terrace. The wine cellar is exceptional. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Le Cygne
Hotel Noga-Hilton, 19 quai du Mont-Blanc, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/9089085
Over 90 SF
Geneva
French

The exceptional view of Mont Blanc provides a welcome distraction from the slick, somewhat dated decor, and Olivier Villette's refined menu grabs your attention as soon as it arrives. Roast lamb shank flavored with garlic and served with zucchini in basil is a perennial favorite; turtle soup with scallops is more adventurous fare. There's a fabulous cellar of French and Swiss wines and a caravan of dessert carts waiting to circle your table. AE, DC, MC, V.

Le Lion d'Or
5 pl. Pierre-Gautier, Cologny, Switzerland
Phone: 022/7364432
Over 90 SF
Geneva
French

Cologny is Geneva's Beverly Hills with a view, and this culinary landmark takes full advantage of its real estate - the summer terrace overlooks the city, the lake, and the Jura. Local celebrity chefs Gilles Dupont and Tommy Byrne give seafood and seasonal menus a sophisticated edge; line-caught sea bass is roasted to perfection, cardons are served au gratin with truffles. Herbs are extra fresh, as they come from a kitchen garden just below the terrace. The wood-paneled bistro next door shares the restaurant's kitchen but not its prices - grab a cab and come for lunch. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Le Lyrique
12 blvd. du Théâtre, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3280095
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
French

Black-and-white floor tiles offset warm-yellow walls and high wedding-cake ceilings in this relaxed café-brasserie in the heart of Geneva's musical quarter. Portraits of Beethoven, Verdi, Strauss, and Liszt watch as pretheater diners choose homemade pasta with scampi, summer gazpacho, steak tartare, or one of the many alluring desserts. Though it's normally closed on weekends, the restaurant stays open whenever there's a performance at the Grand Théâtre, next door. AE, DC, MC, V.

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte
49 rue du Rhône, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3106004
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
Steak

Steak frîtes with a pat of herb butter is served in most Genevois restaurants, but the perfectly spiced sauce maison and tender morsels you can expect here are truly exceptional. A crisp green salad sprinkled with walnuts and thin, golden fries will accompany the only option on the menu; don't worry, there's a second portion on the way. The elegant, popular dining room is wedged between haute couture emporia and decorated with gigantic Belle Epoque posters. MC, V.

Le Thé
65 rue des Bains, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 079/4367718
Under 30 SF
Geneva
Chinese

A three-course meal at this tiny hole-in-the-wall Chinese tearoom costs less than appetizers of similar quality elsewhere. The choices, all à la vapeur (steamed), include succulent rice-flour crepes stuffed with shrimp, dim sum, and steamed bread. There are more than 20 kinds of green tea alone; appropriately enough, delicate red-clay teapots (for sale) line the walls. The six tables fill up fast - call ahead or drop by after 1:30 for lunch. No credit cards. Closed Sun.

Le Vallon
182 rte. de Florissant, Conches, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3471104
60 SF to 90 SF
Geneva
French

A rosy facade, lace curtains, and hanging grapevines set the scene for a memorable meal at this century-old restaurant on the edge of town. Each dish, served on individually selected china, is a work of art. Everything on the menu - whether sausage, terrine, or a succulent tarte Tatin (caramelized apple tart) in calvados cream - is made in-house. MC, V. Closed weekends.

Les Armures
1 rue du Puits-St-Pierre, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3103442
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
Swiss

Everyone from street sweepers to President Clinton has come to this Old Town institution. The dining rooms have dark beams, heavy wrought iron, and authentic medieval arms; the robust Swiss menu includes fondue, raclette, filets de perches (perch fillets), Schübling (sausage), and Rösti (hash browns). They serve until midnight, unusually late by Geneva standards. AE, DC, MC, V.

Les Continents
Hotel Intercontinental, 7-9 chemin du Petit-Saconnex, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/9193350
Over 90 SF
Geneva
French

The dining room remains traditional - Victorian wood panels, creamy linen, chandeliers - but there is exciting new blood in the kitchen. Chef Didier Quesnel's particular yen for foie gras and seafood appears in dishes such as duck liver roasted with caramelized quinces. His inventive dessert selections might include chocolate and sweet-wine sponge cake, or cappuccino of baby bananas with mascarpone. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Les Fous de la Place
21 rue de la Corraterie, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3105340
30 SF to 60 SF
Geneva
Contemporary

This confident spot on the edge of place Neuve pulls in trendy young professionals for ever-changing creative cuisine at reasonable prices. Asian and Middle Eastern flavors seep into the classic brasserie-style cooking; the slim red settees, saffron tasseled drapes, and scarlet cone lamps give the dining room a hint of decadence. Ask for a table on the sun-filled rooftop terrace in summer. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. No lunch Sat.

Roberto
10 rue Pierre-Fatio, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3118033
60 SF to 90 SF
Geneva
Italian

Roberto Carugati and his daughter, Marietta, have perfected an easy formality that lures lawyers, bankers, politicians, and fashionable Italians to their red-gold dining room. Parmesan cheese arrives in lieu of bread; the menu features eggplant carpaccio with coriander, pasta in saffron sauce, buttery sole with tarragon, and risotto served from shining copper and silver pots. Unusual and rare Italian wines loosen the elegance as the night wears on. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.

Taverne de la Madeleine
20 rue Toutes-Âmes, Geneva, Switzerland
Phone: 022/3106070
Under 30 SF
Geneva
Continental

Plain and simple, in terms of both decor and cooking, this big, friendly Swiss canteen is a sure bet. It's got history on its side; the building dates from the 1600s. Choucroûte appears in November and December; filets de perches (perch) may be had year-round. The city's temperance league owns and operates the Taverne, so it serves no alcoholic beverages, and the kitchen closes at 4 PM. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner.