Even the owner is hard-pressed to explain the name of this trattoria, which means "13 hunchbacks." The interior is colorful and vibrant, from its exposed-brick walls to its gaily painted chairs and patterned plates. The food's fun, too - the pici con aglio, olio, pepperoncino, e pancetta (thick noodles sauced with olive oil, garlic, cayenne, and bacon) packs a punch. The bollito misto (mixed boiled meats) arrives at the table with a subtle but heady aroma, and the salsa verde (green sauce) that typically accompanies the dish pairs divinely. There's a tiny courtyard for outdoor seating when it's warm. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Acquacotta
Via dei Pilastri 51/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/242907
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

With its closely spaced, red-checked tablecloths, you couldn't get any more "Italian" than this. You almost expect the chef to come out of the kitchen with an accordion and serenade you while you eat. Not to worry: service is offhand (sometimes dismissive), and the chef has better things to do than break into song. The highlight of the menu, with the usual list of grilled meats and pasta starters, is the acquacotta, literally cooked water - a regional favorite that seems to be disappearing from most menus. In this case, it's a vegetable-based soup with mushrooms and onions that's topped with a poached egg. MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Acquerello
Via Ghibellina 156/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-0554
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Mediterranean

A trim little trattoria with vaulted ceilings and green tablecloths, Acquerello focuses on Sardinian food. Specialties of the house include anything to do with fish, although the pollo alla Vernaccia (chicken in a strong white-wine sauce) is worthy of respect as well. The taglierini in cartoccio alla corsara (pasta with mussels and shrimp) comes to the table having been wrapped in foil and then baked; the foil is molded into the shape of a swan, which makes for a dramatic presentation. Wash it all down with Vermentino, a white Sardinian wine. If you're feeling brave, finish off the meal with filuferru - literally, "iron thread" - a smooth Sardinian grappa. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Thurs.

Alfredo
Viale Don Giovanni Minzoni 3/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/578291
EUR23 to EUR41
San Lorenzo
Italian

This place is just on the other side of Piazza della Libertà, which happily puts it somewhat off the beaten tourist path. The decor is simple - white walls and white tablecloths - and the feel lively. The cooks turn out a fine pizza, but even better are the primi and secondi (first and second courses) - some are atypical Tuscan and pleasant surprises such as fettuccine alla carbonara di mare (with a carbonara sauce of squid rather than pancetta). You'd be wise to reserve ahead. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Alle Murate
Via Ghibellina 52/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/240618
EUR41 to EUR62
Santa Croce
Italian

This sophisticated restaurant features creative versions of classic Tuscan dishes - such as zuppa di ceci e merluzzo (pureed chickpeas with hints of cod). The main dining room has a rich, uncluttered look, with warm wood floors and paneling and soft lights. In a smaller adjacent room called the vineria, you get the same, splendid service and substantially reduced prices. Be warned that there's no middle ground with the wine list - only a smattering of inexpensive offerings before it soars to exalted heights. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

Antellesi
Via Faenza 9/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/216990
EUR23 to EUR41
San Lorenzo
Italian

Down the street from the Cappelle Medicee, this vaulted two-room trattoria has warm ocher walls, wood tables and chairs, and a polite but slightly absent-minded staff. No matter: the peposo alla fiorentina (peppery beef stew) packs enough of a wallop that you won't even care. This is honest Florentine cooking, which explains why locals love it. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Baldovino
Via San Giuseppe 22/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/241773
Under EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

This lively, brightly colored spot down the street from the church of Santa Croce is the brainchild of David and Catherine Gardner, expat Scots. From its humble beginnings as a pizzeria, it has evolved into something more. It's a happy thing that pizza is still on the menu, but now it shares billing with sophisticated primi and secondi (first and second courses). The menu changes monthly and offers such treats as petto d'anatra al melagrano (duck breast with pomegranate). Baldovino also serves some tasty antipasti, such as the plate of smoked salmon and tuna, and insalatone (big salads). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug.

Beccofino
Piazza degli Scarlatti 1/r, Lungarno Guicciardini, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/290076
EUR41 to EUR62
Oltrarno
Italian

Written on the menu is "esercizi di cucina italiana" (Italian cooking exercises), which is a disarmingly modest way to alert the diner that something wonderfully different is going on here. The interior has a pale-wood serpentine bar separating the ocher-walled wine bar from the green-walled restaurant. Chef Francesco Berardinelli has paid some dues in the United States, and it shows in the inventiveness of his food (such as his pairing of scallops with bitter greens), which ends up tasting wholly and wonderfully Italian. The wine bar offers a shorter and less expensive menu; in the summer, you can enjoy this food on a terrace facing the Arno. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Benvenuto
Via della Mosca 16/r , at Via de' Neri, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/214833
Under EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

Though this Florentine institution, beloved for decades by locals and Anglophone Renaissance scholars alike, was renovated, replacing the pink fluorescent lights and severe white walls, it remains true to character: the service is ebullient, the menu long (with often unwittingly hysterical English typographical errors), the food simple Tuscan and tasty, too. The list of primi and secondi (first and second courses) is extensive, and there are daily specials as well. Don't miss the scaloppine al Benvenuto (veal cutlets with porcini). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Birreria Centrale
Piazza Cimatori 1/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/211915
Under EUR23
Centro Storico
German

Though there are plenty of Italian dishes on the menu here, the feel is more of a Munich beer hall than a Florentine trattoria; indeed, the menu emphasizes sausages and goulash. Heavy wooden tables are set closely together, and copies of 19th-century paintings adorn the very yellow walls, along with two frescoed Michelangelesque nudes that cavort over a brick arch. The würstel rossi con crauti, speck, e patate (plump hotdogs with sauerkraut, cured beef, and potatoes) is served with a dollop of spicy mustard. There's outside seating in warm weather - a great place to enjoy a beer. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Caffè Concerto
Lungarno Colombo 7, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/677377
EUR41 to EUR62
Santa Croce
Eclectic

You might feel like you're in California on the Arno while dining at this sleek, airy restaurant a short ride from the city center. Owner-chef Gabriele Tarchiani has spent some time in the United States, which shows in the plants that fill the interior as well as the creative touches on the menu, which changes monthly. It's a rare thing and a blessing in Florence to find such imagination, as in the composta di cozze, cavolo cinese, e carciofi, a mound of artichokes and Chinese cabbage garnished with mussels. Dessert is also enigmatic - try the sesame-seed concoction with rum-soaked dates and papaya sorbet. Florentines come here to celebrate special occasions - no wonder, as the food is sublime. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Cammillo
Borgo San Jacopo 57/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/212427
EUR23 to EUR41
Oltrarno
Italian

You're likely to hear a lot of languages (English included) bantered about at this lively, multiroom trattoria crammed with tables, just on the other side of the Arno. The restaurant has been in the capable hands of the Masiero family for three generations, and in this location since 1945. The family farm in the country supplies the olive oil and wines for the restaurant, which go nicely with the wide-ranging list of Tuscan specialties. Reservations are advised. AE, DC, MC, V. Reservations essential. Closed Wed., 15 days in Aug., and 15 days Dec.-Jan.

Cantina Barbagianni
Via Sant'Egidio 13, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/248-0508
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

Diverso dal solito ("different from the usual") is the theme here, and this attitude is reflected in the funky decor, with its avant-garde paintings and loads of strategically placed drapes. The menu, which changes regularly, strays far from the typical Tuscan path. L'anatra con mirtillo (duck with blueberries) is rare in these parts, and the chef is to be commended for his inventiveness. The insalata del Torchio is composed of slivers of hearts of palm, arugula, and toasted walnuts; the risotto al carciofi con scamorza (artichoke risotto with smoked cheese) is heavenly. And so are the desserts. Cristina, the proprietress, presides over her guests with great ease. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Cantinetta Antinori
Piazza Antinori 3, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/292234
EUR41 to EUR62
Santa Maria Novella
Italian

After a rough morning of shopping on Via Tornabuoni, stop for lunch in this 15th-century palazzo in the company of Florentine ladies (and men) who lunch and come to see and be seen. The panache of the food matches its clientele, but be prepared to pay dearly for such treats as tramezzino con pane di campagna (country pâté with truffles served on bread) or the insalata di gamberoni e gamberetti (crayfish and prawn salad with shaved raw artichokes). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends and Aug.

Cantinetta Francescano
Largo Bargellini 16, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/241605
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

This place, once the place to see and be seen in, has changed hands as well as chefs. New life has been breathed into it. Four rooms of varying sizes, adorned with colorful terra-cotta plates and simple wood tables and chairs, impart the feel of a day out in the Tuscan countryside. Chef Karin Rosenthal has, indeed, plied her craft in the countryside, and it shows in her creative menu, which changes monthly. Do not miss her crostino con cavolo nero e lardo di colonnato (toasts with Tuscan kale and cured pork fat), which takes a simple vegetable like Tuscan kale to uncharted heights. Keep in mind, too, that this woman can fry: her gran fritto misto (mixed fry of chicken, rabbit, and vegetables) is absolutely exquisite. MC, V. Closed Tues.

Cibrèo
Via A. del Verrocchio 8/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-1100
EUR41 to EUR62
Santa Croce
Italian

The food at this innovative Florentine trattoria is fantastic, from the first bite of seamless, creamy crostini di fegatini (with Tuscan chicken-liver spread) to the last bite of one of the meltingly good desserts. If you thought you'd never try tripe - let alone like it - this is the place to lay any doubts to rest: the trippa in insalata (cold tripe salad) with parsley and garlic is an epiphany. So is just about everything else on the menu. It's wise to construe owner Fabio Picchi's unsolicited advice to diners on the A to Zs of Italian eating as a manifestation of his enthusiasm about his food - which is warranted, as he serves some of the best, most creative food in town. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon., July 25-Sept. 5, and Dec. 31-Jan. 7.

Danny Rock
Via Pandolfini 13/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-0307
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
American/Casual

There's a bit of everything at this restaurant, which is always hopping with Italians eager to eat well-made cheeseburgers and fries or one of the many tasty crepes (served both sweet and savory). You can also find a basic plate of spaghetti as well as a respectable pizza here. Interior decor isn't high on the list: you dine at a green metal table with matching chairs. The young-at-heart feel might explain why there's a big screen in the main dining room showing Looney Tunes. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Domani
Via Romana 80/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/221166
EUR23 to EUR41
Oltrarno
Eclectic

Chef Yukihiro Kojima was born in Japan and classically trained in French technique before moving to Italy and teaming up with chef Alberto Borborini to create this one-of-a-kind Japanese-Italian-French restaurant. It is a bit odd to see bouillabaisse on the same menu as spaghetti alla carbonara (with bacon, eggs, and Parmesan) and maiale saltato con kimchi (pork with pickled Korean-style cabbage), but that's the beauty of this place. The Japanese food is particularly good, and well priced; Mr. Kojima says it's the food he grew up on. It is all about the food here, as the two large rooms are rather unremarkable. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Enoteca Pinchiorri
Via Ghibellina 87, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/242777
Over EUR62
Santa Croce
Italian

A sumptuous Renaissance palace with high, frescoed ceilings and bouquets in silver vases provides the setting for this restaurant, one of the most expensive in Italy. Some consider it one of the best restaurants, and others consider it overpriced and overrated. The enoteca part of the name comes from its former incarnation as a wine shop under owner Giorgio Pinchiorri, who still keeps a stock of vintage bottles in the cellar. A variety of fish, game, and meat dishes are always on the menu, along with pasta combinations such as the ignudi, ricotta-cheese dumplings with a lobster and coxcomb fricassee. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun., Aug., and 1 wk in Dec. No lunch Mon. or Wed.

Harry's Bar
Lungarno Vespucci 22/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/239-6700
EUR41 to EUR62
Santa Maria Novella
Italian

You come to Harry's for the swank setting - it's cozy, with a tiny bar, pink tablecloths, and plenty of well-heeled customers captured in rosy lighting. Where else could you hope to see a gold-bedecked Florentine matron toting a Pekinese? Enjoy a Bellini (peach juice and Prosecco) or, better yet, Harry's absolutely superb martini, before tucking into the menu. The perfectly bilingual staff is more than affable. But don't expect any culinary punches: this is nursery food - often bland and unseasoned - for the privileged set, and you can eat better elsewhere in Florence. Reservations are advised. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., 1 wk over Christmas, and 1 wk in Aug.

I' Polpa
Piazza Mino da Fiesole 21-22, Fiesole, Italy
Phone: 055/59485
EUR23 to EUR41
Fiesole
Italian

A short distance up the street from the main piazza of Fiesole, a quick jaunt (8 km/5 mi) from Florence, this family-owned and -run restaurant offers great food and friendly service. Though it's laid out in two oddly shaped rooms, one of which has no windows, the creamy yellow walls and matching table linens impart a sunny feeling. Walls are lined with photos of famous visitors, including Luciano Pavarotti and Sting. The carpaccio di manzo al Gorgonzola (thinly sliced beef with a creamy Gorgonzola sauce) is a nice variation on the classic. The coniglio in porchetta (boned rabbit, stuffed and rolled with sausage) is worth the trip alone - has rabbit ever tasted this moist? AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed.

Il Cigno
Via di Varlunga 3/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/691762
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

A short taxi ride from the centro storico, Il Cigno (The Swan) has been around since the 1950s. The simple interior, with whitewashed walls and functional tables, provides the backdrop for some very fine mushroom dishes, among the best in town. When in season (fall and spring), the porcini fritti (fried fresh porcini mushrooms) should not be missed, along with the bon bon al tartufo - thin cheese-stuffed pasta crepes in a tartufo and bechamel sauce. The spaghetti al Cigno, a staple here, is sauced with tomatoes and sausage and topped with a raw egg yolk. The warm-weather terrace seating makes this place simply divine. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Il Latini
Via dei Palchetti 6/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/210916
EUR23 to EUR41
Centro Storico
Italian

This may be the noisiest, most crowded trattoria in Florence. It's also a fun place to go because it is so lively. Four big rooms are lined with bottles of wine and prints, and somehow they manage to feel cozy - perhaps because there are always a lot of happy Florentines tucking into their salsicce e fagioli (sausage and beans) or, in season, agnello fritto (fried lamb). Portions are big - you'll think you won't be able to eat it all, but you will. This place packs them in, tourists and locals alike, with good reason. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 15 days over Christmas.

La Baraonda
Via Ghibellina 67/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-1171
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

A Hollywood set of a Tuscan trattoria could take some cues from this charming place, with its tile floors that recall the 1930s and tables set with tiny fresh flowers and patterned plates - all signs that La Baraonda does things one notch better than most other places. The food is imaginative, from starters such as pennette al radicchio rosso (little penne with radicchio and bacon) to the farinata (a bread-based soup concoction). Ebullient proprietor Duccio Magni runs the kitchen, and Elena, his charming wife, runs the dining room; it's a perfect marriage. Dining alfresco in a tiny side street is an option when it's warm. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Mon.

La Casalinga
Via Michelozzi 9/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/218624
Under EUR23
Oltrarno
Italian

"Casalinga" means housewife, and this place has all the charm of a 1950s kitchen with Tuscan comfort food to match. Paintings beyond mediocre clutter the partially paneled walls, and tables are set close together. The place is usually jammed, and for good reason: the menu is extensive and as Tuscan as you can get, portions are plentiful, and the service is prompt and friendly. If you have ribollita anywhere in Florence, have it here - the setting couldn't be more authentic. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Christmas wk, and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch in July.

La Giostra
Borgo Pinti 12/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/241341
EUR23 to EUR62
Santa Croce
Italian

The clubby La Giostra, which means "carousel" in Italian, is owned and run by Prince Dimitri Kunz d'Asburgo Lorena, and his way with mushrooms is as remarkable as his charm. The unusually good pastas may require explanation from Dimitri or Soldano, the prince's handsome twin sons. In perfect English they'll describe a favorite dish, carbonara di tartufo, a decadently rich spaghetti with eggs and white truffles. Try the spianata (slices of thinly shaved beef baked quickly). Leave room for dessert: this might be the only show in town with a sublime tiramisu and a wonderfully gooey Sacher torte. AE, DC, MC, V.

La Maremma
Via Verdi 16/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/244615
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

Though it looks like your basic trattoria with its inexpensive paneled walls and simple tables, the food here is better than basic. The menu offers Tuscan as well as other Italian treats. The version here of the Roman spaghetti alla carbonara is terrific. The pollo all'aceto (chicken with balsamic vinegar) is luscious. Service is courteous and prompt. If you want to eat ostrich, here's the place to do it in Italy. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed.

La Posta
Via dei Lamberti 20, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/212701
EUR23 to EUR41
Centro Storico
Italian

Only steps from Piazza Repubblica, this restaurant has been around for more than 100 years. Ceilings reach high above the cloth-covered tables in the three dining rooms. Under the fine ministrations of owner Enzo Vocino, La Posta offers a large menu with typical Tuscan treats as well as less-typical offerings such as filetto alla tartara (steak tartare) prepared tableside. The chef has a deft touch with fried vegetables, particularly the fiori di zucca (zucchini blossoms), which are so light you'll forget that they're cholesterol bombs. Reserve in warmer months for the lovely outdoor tables. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues.

Le Fonticine
Via Nazionale 79/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/282106
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Maria Novella
Italian

This restaurant is a welcome oasis in a neighborhood near the train station not noted for its fine-dining options. Here you dine very well, since the place combines the best of two Italian cuisines: owner Silvano Bruci is from Tuscany and his wife, Gianna, is from Emilia-Romagna. Start with the mixed-vegetable antipasto plate or the delicate fried cauliflower balls before moving on to the osso buco alla fiorentina (in a hearty tomato sauce). The interior of the restaurant, filled with the Brucis' painting collection, provides a cheery space for the satisfying food. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon. and July 25-Aug. 25.

Le Mosacce
Via del Proconsolo 55/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/294361
Under EUR23
Centro Storico
Italian

Come to this tiny, cramped, and boisterous place for a quick bite to eat. The menu, written in three languages, includes hearty, stick-to-the-ribs Florentine food such as ribollita (minestrone with bread). Seating is communal, so it's no surprise that the big, straw-covered flask of wine is shared with fellow diners. Service is prompt and efficient. The small kitchen is staffed by two nimble cooks with impeccable timing. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Mario
Via Rosina 2/r , corner of Piazza del Mercato Centrale, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/218550
Under EUR23
San Lorenzo
Italian

Florentines flock to this narrow, unfussy, family-run trattoria near San Lorenzo at lunchtime to feast on Tuscan favorites savored at a scattering of simple tables under a wooden ceiling that dates from 1536. A distinct cafeteria feel and genuine Florentine hospitality prevail: you'll be seated wherever there's room, which often means with strangers. Yes, there's a bit of extra oil in most dishes, which imparts calories as well as taste, but aren't you on vacation? Worth the splurge is riso al ragù (rice with ground beef and tomatoes). Come early to avoid a wait. It's open for lunch only. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug. No dinner.

Marione
Via della Spada 27/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/214756
Under EUR23
Centro Storico
Italian

If you're in the historic center and looking for a lively trattoria, look no further: Marione is crowded and boisterous, with tables jammed closely together, a briskly efficient staff, and a menu of such Tuscan classics as tagliatelle di funghi porcini (wide pasta ribbons with fresh porcini mushrooms) and ribollita (vegetable soup thickened with bread and beans). A minimum cover charge of EUR10 is de rigeur here - a feeble attempt, probably, at keeping the tourists out. But they, like Florentines, come here in droves. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and first 3 wks in Aug.

Maximilian
Via Alfani 10/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/247-8080
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

"This is not fast food" appears on the menu outside the door of this intimate, white-walled trattoria (make reservations). Until recently, Adele, the chef-owner, was the sole employee. Though she has since hired a waitress, the service is still relaxed - slow, in fact. All complaints immediately dissipate with the first bite. The risotto al tartufo nero (with black-truffle sauce) is a creamy, heavenly perfumed concoction. Don't miss her tagliata topped with raw arugula and an olive-lemon dressing: it's the best in town. The menu is rich with vegetarian primi and secondi (first and second courses), a rarity in Florentine restaurants. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 3 wks in July and Aug. No lunch.

Osteria Antica Mescita San Niccolò
Via San Niccolò 60/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-2836
Under EUR23
Oltrarno
Italian

This bustling osteria is directly next to the church of San Niccolò, and if you sit in the lower part of the restaurant you will find yourself in what was once a chapel, dating from the 11th century. The food is simple Tuscan style at its very best. The pollo con limone is tasty little pieces of chicken in a fragrant lemon-scented broth. In the winter, try the spezzatino di cinghiale con aromi (wild boar stew with herbs). A plus: the kitchen's almost always open until 11:30 PM, and sometimes until midnight. Reservations are advised. No credit cards. Closed Sun.

Osteria de' Benci
Via de' Benci 11-13/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-4923
Under EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

Just a few minutes from Santa Croce, this charming osteria serves some of the most eclectic food in Florence at remarkably low prices. Try the spicy spaghetti dell'ubriacone (literally, "drunkard's spaghetti"), an amazing pasta cooked in red wine and unlike any plate of spaghetti you've ever had. The grilled meats are justifiably famous; the carbonata is a succulent piece of grilled beef served rare. When it's warm, you can dine outside with a view of the 13th-century tower belonging to the prestigious Alberti family. The English-speaking staff shouldn't scare you off: Florentines do eat here. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Osteria del Porcellino
Via Val di Lamona 7/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/264148
EUR23 to EUR41
Centro Storico
Italian

Named for the little bronze pig (wild boar, actually) in the nearby Mercato Nuovo, this place has an intimate atmosphere. Its candlelit room is lined with contemporary paintings, and the menu is perfectly inventive: the pappa con melanzane e funghi porcini, a bread-based soup with eggplant and porcini mushrooms, updates an often tired classic. The pollo con harissa (chicken with a peppered Moroccan sauce) is zesty and spicy - two adjectives not often associated with Tuscan food. Service is courteous and prompt and the wine list short but comprehensive. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekdays.

Osteria N. 1
Via del Moro 22, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/284897
EUR23 to EUR62
Centro Storico
Italian

This romantic restaurant is nestled in the ground floor of an old palazzo in the historic center. The place is suffused with a rosy glow from the tablecloths and cream-color walls, lined with painted landscapes and the occasional coat of arms. The food is expertly handled - try the delicate artichoke ravioli with olive oil and Parmesan or the crespelle, a little package of pasta stuffed with zucchini puree and topped with a subtle walnut sauce, before moving on to any of the grilled meats. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 15 days in Aug. No lunch Mon.

Ottorino
Via delle Oche 12-16/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/281747 or 055/215151
EUR23 to EUR41
Centro Storico
Italian

The waiters here wear jackets and bow ties as they sashay through the brick-vaulted, high-ceiling rooms. Though the decor is simple - white walls with matching white tablecloths - the menu is not. It features the usual Tuscan mainstays, but it also offers daily specials where the chef can indulge flights of fancy. Primi (first courses) such as tortelli di carciofi (pasta squares stuffed with artichokes and pecorino) do little for the waistline but much to lift the spirits. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Pallottino
Via Isola delle Stinche 1/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/289573
EUR23 to EUR41
Santa Croce
Italian

With its tile floor, photograph-filled walls, and wooden tables, Pallottino is the quintessential Tuscan trattoria, with hearty, heartwarming classics like pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread soup) and peposo alla toscana (peppery beef stew). Its lunch special, at EUR5.20 for primo and secondo (a first and second course), could be the best bargain in town. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 2-3 wks in Aug.

Pandemonio
Via del Leone 50/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/224002
Over EUR41
San Frediano
Italian

Graciously run by the kindly Brogi family, this place in San Frediano, south of the Arno, bills itself as a trattoria but it's something more. Two rooms - one subdued, the other with a garden feel - provide interesting counterpoints to the beautiful, tiny garden outside. The menu contains typical Tuscan treats such as pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread soup). The house-made pastas are exceptionally good, and the bistecca alla fiorentina (grilled Florentine steak) succulent and copious. The wine list is wide-ranging and features many terrific Tuscan vintages. The meal ends with Dai Dai, a tiny ice-cream treat hailing from the Tuscan coast, served gratis by the capable and multilingual staff. This is not your regular, everyday trattoria - this is a place for special occasions. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Pasquini
Via Val di Lamone 2/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/218995
EUR23 to EUR41
Centro Storico
Italian

At this small, one-room trattoria in the heart of the centro storico, you might get the feeling you're in someone's Tuscan farmhouse kitchen. You can watch the chef cook behind garlands of garlic and hot peppers while you wait for a bowl of ribollita (minestrone with bread) or a plate of carpaccio. Giacinto, who manages the place and also waits on tables, can, if in the mood, provide you with lots of laughs in between mouthfuls. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. Nov.-Mar.

Quattro Leone
Piazza della Passera, Via dei Vellutini 1/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/218562
EUR23 to EUR41
Oltrarno
Italian

The eclectic staff at this trattoria nestled in a small piazza is an appropriate match for the eclectic menu. In winter, you can sample the wares in one of two rooms with high ceilings, and in the summer you can sit outside and admire the scenery. Traditional Tuscan favorites, such as taglierini con porcini (long, thin, and flat pasta with porcini), are offered, but so, too, are less typical things like the earthy cabbage salad with avocado, pine nuts, and drops of olio di tartufo (truffle oil). Reservations are a good idea. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Thurs.

Salaam Bombay
Viale F. Rosselli 45/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/321-7464
Under EUR23
Santa Maria Novella
Indian

This Indian restaurant is a welcome - and rare - alternative to Italian food (yes, you can tire of it). There are two levels; the top one has a balcony that overlooks the often buzzing scene below. Walls are festooned with Indian tapestries. Mughlai, tandoori, and vegetarian dishes are featured; the hot dishes are well spiced and the mango pickle is made in-house. Service can be a bit dodgy, but all's forgiven once the food arrives. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

San Domenico
Piazza San Domenico, Fiesole, Italy
Phone: 055/59182
Under EUR41
Fiesole
Italian

Three-quarters of the way up the hill to Fiesole (8 km/5 mi north of Florence), this pizzeria-restaurant is low on ambience (the decor might best be described as industrial), but it does offer some tasty pizze as well as pastas. If you're hiking in the nearby hills, or going to the church of San Domenico, this is a perfect place to break for lunch. There's outdoor seating in the summer that, unfortunately, looks directly on to a somewhat busy two-lane road. No matter: the air's still better here, which makes that pizza with arugula and bresaola (air-dried, salted, and aged beef fillet) taste so much more flavorful. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Sedano Allegro
Borgo la Croce 20/r , near Piazza Beccaria, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/234-5505
Under EUR41
Santa Croce
Vegetarian

You might be tempted to walk right by this place, since the front it presents to the world is that of a typical Florentine bar. But venture in and you find two intimate, candlelit rooms (one for smoking) and nary a meat dish on the menu. "Happy Celery," as the name translates into English, is an emporium for tasty twists on Italian classics. The seitan alla normanna (sautéed wheat gluten with porcini mushrooms) maintains the integrity of the original meat-based dish and still stays tasty. Alas, the menu doesn't include tofu dishes - the owner doesn't like tofu. The service glows. A small terrace can be enjoyed in the warmer months. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Taverna del Bronzino
Via delle Ruote 27/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/495220
EUR41 to EUR62
San Lorenzo
Italian

Want to have a sophisticated meal in a 16th-century Renaissance artist's studio? There's nothing outstanding about the decor in the former studio of Santi di Tito, a student of Bronzino's, save for its simple formality, with white tablecloths and place settings. Lots of classic, superb Tuscan food, however - the presentation often dramatic - graces the artful menu. A wine list of solid, affordable choices rounds out the menu. For starters try the prosciutto e tomino alla griglia (with broiled cheese) - ham and cheese never tasted this good. The service is outstanding. Reservations are advised, especially for eating at the wine cellar's only table. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Zibibbo
Via di Terzollina 3/r, Florence, Italy
Phone: 055/433383
EUR23 to EUR62
Careggi
Italian

Benedetta Vitali, chef and creative muse for many years at Florence's famed Cibrèo, has opened a restaurant of her very own. It's a welcome addition to the sometimes claustrophobic Florentine dining scene - particularly since you have to drive a few minutes out of town to get here. Off a quiet piazza, it has an unassuming facade that leads into two intimate rooms with rustic, maroon-painted wood floors and a sloped ceiling. Ms. Vitali's tagliatelle al sugo d'anatra (wide pasta ribbons with duck sauce) is aromatic and flavorful, and her crocchette di fave con salsa di yogurt (fava bean croquettes with a lively yogurt sauce) are innovative and tasty. The staff is as welcoming as the chef-owner. This place is worth the cab fare from Florence city center. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.