Diners here are treated to a superb view of the Rådhus Pladsen, as well as to terrific smørrebrød, both of which compensate for the uneven pace of the often-harried but hard-working staff. Specialties include fried veal with bouillon gravy and fried potatoes; entrecôte in garlic and bordelaise sauce paired with creamed potatoes; and a herring plate with three types of spiced marinated herring and boiled potatoes. AE, DC, MC, V.

El Meson
Hauser Pl. 12 (behind Kultorvet), Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/11-91-31
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Spanish

At Copenhagen's best Spanish restaurant, you are seated at smoothly worn wooden tables in a dimly lit dining room hung with earthen crockery. The waitstaff is knowledgeable and serves generous portions of beef spiced with spearmint, lamb with honey sauce, and paella Valenciano - a mixture of rice, chicken, ham, shrimp, lobster, squid, green beans, and peas - for two. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Els
Store Strandestr. 3, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/14-13-41
DKr200 to DKr400
Copehagen
Danish

When it opened in 1853, the intimate Els was the place to be seen before the theater, and the painted Muses on the walls still watch diners rush to make an eight o'clock curtain. Antique wooden columns complement the period furniture, including tables inlaid with Royal Copenhagen tile work. Chef Jens Larsen changes his nouvelle French-Danish four-course menu every two weeks, always incorporating game, fish, and market produce. Jackets are recommended. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. lunch and July.

Flyvefisken
Lars Bjørnstr. 18, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/14-95-15
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Thai

Silvery stenciled fish swim along blue-and-yellow walls in this funky Thai eatery. Spicy concoctions include chicken with cashew nuts, and herring shark in basil sauce. The less-expensive health-food café Atlas Bar - in the basement - serves excellent food to a steady stream of students and hipsters. DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Gyldne Fortun's Fiskekældere
Ved Stranden 18, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/12-20-11
Over DKr400
Copehagen
Seafood

Among the city's finest seafood restaurants, this "fish cellar" is brightly decorated with seashell-shaded halogen lamps and aquariums. Across the street from Christiansborg, it is popular with politicians as well as businesspeople. Try the fillets of Scandinavian sole poached in white wine, stuffed with salmon mousseline, glazed with hollandaise, and served with prawns. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Ida Davidsen
Store Kongensg. 70, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/91-36-55
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Danish

Five generations old, this world-renowned lunch spot is synonymous with smørrebrød. Dimly lit, with worn wooden tables and news clippings of famous visitors, it's usually packed. Creative sandwiches include the H. C. Andersen, with liver pâté, bacon, and tomatoes, and the airplane clipper - steak tartare shaped like a plane and topped with caviar, smoked salmon, and egg yolk. You'll also enjoy a terrific smoked duck that Ida's husband, Adam, smokes himself and serves alongside a horseradish-spiked cabbage salad. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V. Closed weekends and July. No dinner.

Kommandanten
Ny Adelg. 7, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/12-09-90
DKr200 to DKr400
Copehagen
Contemporary

Fancifully decorated by master florist Tage Andersen with brushed iron and copper furniture, down pillows, and foliage-flanked lights, this is among the city's most exclusive dinner spots, attracting well-heeled businesspeople and local celebrities - as well as two Michelin stars. The adventuresome international fare might include dishes like rabbit with bouillon-cooked lentils, herbs, and bacon, and marinated salmon with oysters and parsley. Jackets are recommended. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Kong Hans Kælder
Vingårdstr. 6, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/11-68-68
Over DKr400
Copehagen
Eclectic

Five centuries ago this was a Nordic vineyard - now it's one of Scandinavia's finest restaurants. Chef Thomas Rode Andersen's French-Danish-Asian-inspired dishes employ the freshest local ingredients and are served in a mysterious subterranean space with whitewashed walls and vaulted ceilings. Try the foie gras with raspberry-vinegar sauce or the warm oysters with salmon roe. Jackets are recommended. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. in June, July, and Aug.; the last two weeks in July, and Easter week. No lunch.

Konrads
Pilestræde 12-14, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/93-29-29
DKr200 to DKr400
Copehagen
French

Elegant and minimalist, this restaurant attracts young people and stars, many of whom look like they just walked off a fashion runway. With its beige and linear decor, Konrads seems as geared for people-watching as dining. The French-international menu is inventive without being off-the-wall, with offerings like potato tortellini filled with oysters and white cream sauce. Stick with the pasta and water and you might make it out of here without breaking the bank. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Krogs
Gammel Strand 38, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/15-89-15
Over DKr400
Copehagen
Contemporary

This elegant canal-front restaurant has developed a loyal clientele both foreign and local. Pale-green walls are simply adorned with paintings of old Copenhagen to create an understated ambience. The menu includes such specialties as pan-grilled lobster flavored with vanilla oil. Jackets are recommended. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

L'Alsace
Ny Østerg. 9, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/14-57-43
DKr200 to DKr400
Copehagen
French

Set in the cobbled courtyard of Pistolstræde and hung with paintings by Danish surrealist Wilhelm Freddie, this restaurant is peaceful and quiet, attracting such diverse diners as Queen Margrethe, Elton John, and Pope Paul II. The hand-drawn menu lists oysters from Brittany, terrine de foie gras, and choucrôute à la Strasbourgeoise (a hearty mélange of cold cabbage, homemade sausage, and pork). Try the fresh-fruit tarts and cakes for dessert, and ask to sit in the patio overlooking the courtyard. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Peder Oxe
Gråbrødretorv 11, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/11-00-77
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Contemporary

On a 17th-century square, this lively, countrified bistro has rustic tables and 15th-century Portuguese tiles. All entrées - among them grilled steaks and fish and the best fancy burgers in town-come with an excellent self-service salad bar replete with whole tomatoes, feta cheese, and fresh greens. Damask-covered tables are set with heavy cutlery and opened bottles of hearty Pyrénées wine. A call-light for the waitress is above each table. In spring, when the high Northern sun is shining but the warmth still has not kicked in, you won't do badly sitting outside in the Gråbrødretorv (Grey Friars' Square) sipping drinks while wrapped in blankets left thoughtfully for patrons in wicker chairs. D, MC, V.

Restaurant Le St. Jacques
Skt. Jacobs Pl. 1, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 31/42-77-07
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Contemporary

This tiny restaurant barely accommodates a dozen tables, but as soon as the sun shines, diners spill out of its icon-filled dining room to sit at tables facing busy Østerbrogade. The fare changes according to what is available at the market, but expect fabulous concoctions - smoked salmon with crushed eggplant, Canadian scallops with leeks and salmon roe in a beurre blanc sauce, sole with basil sauce and reduced balsamic glaze, and a savory poussin (young, small chicken) with sweetbreads scooped into phyllo pastry atop a bed of polenta and lentils. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V.

Riz Raz
Kompagnistr. 20, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/15-05-75
Under DKr120
Copehagen
Middle Eastern

On a corner off Strøget, this Middle Eastern restaurant hops with young locals, families, couples, and anyone who appreciates good value and spicy fare. The inexpensive all-you-can-eat buffet is heaped with lentils, tomatoes, potatoes, olives, hummus, warm pita bread, kufte (Middle Eastern meatballs), yogurt and cucumbers, pickled vegetables, bean salads, and occasionally pizza. Don't be put off by the hordes - just join them, either in the restaurant's endless labyrinth of dining rooms or in the jam-packed summertime patio. Reservations essential weekends. DC, MC, V.

Skt. Gertrudes Kloster
32 Hauser Pl., Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/14-66-30
Over DKr400
Copehagen
French

The history of this medieval monastery goes back 700 years, and from the beginning its vaulted stone interiors have welcomed tradesmen and wayfarers. The dining room is bedecked with hundreds of icons, and the only light is provided by 2,000 candles. The French menu is extensive, with such specials as fresh fillet of halibut steamed in oyster sauce and l'Alsace duck breast in a sherry vinaigrette. A jacket and tie are recommended. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Victor
Ny Østerg. 8, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/13-36-13
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Cafes

Excellent people-watching and good bistro fare are the calling cards at this French-style corner café. It's best during weekend lunches, when young and old gather for such specialties as rib roast, homemade pâté, and smoked salmon and cheese platters. Come here for one of the best brunches in town. Be warned however that the formal restaurant in the back of the space is quite expensive - order from the front café side for a more inexpensive meal. AE, DC, MC, V.

Wiinblad
D'Angleterre hotel, Kongens Nytorv 34, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/12-80-95
DKr200 to DKr400
Copehagen
Danish

This restaurant doubles as a gallery inspired by the work of contemporary Danish artist Bjørn Wiinblad. Almost everything - tiles, wall partitions, plaques, candlesticks, vases, and even some tables - has been made by the great Dane, and the effect is bright, cheerful, and very elegant. The eatery offers an ample breakfast buffet, lunch, tea and grilled specialties for dinner. Try the pickled herring with new potatoes and topped with sour cream, or the breast of duck in cranberry cream sauce. AE, DC, MC, V.

Zeleste
Store Strandstræde 6, Copehagen, Denmark
Phone: 33/16-06-06
DKr120 to DKr200
Copehagen
Contemporary

Zeleste specializes in "con-fusion" gastronomy. Outfitted with a short but well-worn bar, a covered and heated atrium, and - upstairs - a u-shape dining room, it serves as a soothing respite to Nyhavn's canal-front party. Although the food is usually excellent, if you're ravenous, ask specifically about portions - otherwise, you could end up with some tiny slivers of fried fois gras or few tortellini. For lunch, the famished will do well with either the focaccia sandwich or the lobster salad served with toast and an excellent roux dressing; if the latter is not at your table within five minutes, you get a free glass of champagne. AE, DC, MC, V.