The huge buffet draws crowds year after year at this upstairs restaurant, just around the corner from Avenue Toison d'Or. The look is rustic, with red-and-white checkered tablecloths; you can eat on the terrace in summer. The location is great for uptown shopping and movies as well as Sunday brunch, and it's also fun for kids. The Atomium branch of Adrienne (Atomium du Heysel, near Atomium, PHONE: 02/478-3000), which is under different management, is cheaper but of equally good quality. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

Alban Chambon
Mètropole Hotel, Place de Broucère, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/217-2300
EUR62 to EUR87
Lower Town
French

The eatery of the splendid Belle Epoque Mètropole Hotel lives up to the style of its surroundings. Named after its architect, the restaurant sparkles with light from chandeliers reflected in the mirrors all around, while piano music filters in from the bar next door. The cuisine, wine list, and service are all one would expect in such grandiose surroundings: diners can munch on large raviolis of langoustine with wild mushrooms and white sauce, or fried fillet of lamb with vegetable and mint tabbouleh and new potatoes. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Amadeus
R. Veydt 13, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/538-3427
Under EUR62
Upper Town
Contemporary

It is not so much the food (goat cheese with honey, spareribs, tagliatelle with salmon) as the decor that makes this converted artist's studio near the Place Stéphanie a must. Ultra-romantic, not to say kitschy, its dining rooms have an abundance of mirrors, candles, and intimate alcoves, creating a trysty, almost conspiratorial baroque feel. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch. Closed mid-July-mid-Aug.

Au Stekerlapatte
R. des Prêtres 4, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-8681
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
Belgian

In the shadow of the Palais de Justice, this efficient, down-to-earth bistro serves Belgian specialties that include cassoulet, sauerkraut, grilled pig's trotters, spareribs, and black pudding with caramelized apples. MC, V. No lunch. Closed Mon.

Au Vieux Saint Martin
Grand Sablon 38, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-6476
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
Belgian

Even when neighboring restaurants on Grand Sablon are empty, this one is full. A rack of glossy magazines is a thoughtful touch for lone diners, and you're equally welcome whether you order a cup of coffee or a full meal. The short menu emphasizes Brussels specialties, and portions are generous. The owner, a wine importer, serves unusually good wine for the price, by the glass or by the bottle. The red walls are hung with large, contemporary paintings, including works by Pierre Alechinsky, and picture windows overlook the pleasant square. Reservations not accepted. MC, V.

Aux Armes de Bruxelles
R. des Bouchers 13, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-5550
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Belgian

Hidden among the tourist traps of the Ilôt Sacré, this child-friendly restaurant attracts a largely local clientele with its slightly tarnished middle-class elegance and its Belgian classics: turbot waterzooi (turbot fish in a stock thickened with cream and egg yolks), eels in green sauce, a variety of steaks, mussels prepared every which way, and frites (french fries), which the Belgians believe, with some justification, they prepare better than anyone else. The place is cheerful and light, and service is friendly if frequently overstretched. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Aux Marches de la Chapelle
Pl. de la Chapelle 5, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-6891
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
French

This very attractive restaurant, opposite the Eglise de la Chapelle near the Grand Sablon, offers brasserie fare of the highest quality, including traditional sauerkraut. One of the Belle Epoque rooms is dominated by a splendid old bar, the other by an enormous open fireplace. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun. and 3rd wk July-3rd wk Aug.

Bazaar
R. des Capucins 63, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-2600
Under EUR37
Upper Town
Eclectic

An taste of exoticism along a side street in the Marolles, this building has an interesting history - it was once a convent - and a tendency to catch fire. That doesn't stop the candles burning in the cavernous dining room, where a beautiful air balloon is suspended over the bar and Moroccan lamps and sofas create intimacy in a bric-a-brac setting. It's young and fashionable, there's a disco on the lower floor during the weekend, and monthly concerts of world music are performed here. The eclectic, inexpensive menu includes such choices as chicken tajine (slow-cooked with gravy in a deep, glazed earthenware dish) with olives and lemon and ostrich carpaccio. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Bij Den Boer
Quai aux Briques 60, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-6122
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Seafood

This old-fashioned Brussels bistro with wooden benches and mirrors serves good fish and seafood in an informal atmosphere near the old fish market. There are classic Belgian seafood dishes, such as grey shrimp croquettes, eels in green sauce, and mussels, as well as southern French bouillabaisse. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Bistro du Mail
R. du Mail 81, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/539-0697
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
French

By no means a bistro in the fast-food sense, this popular Ixelles-area restaurant does sophisticated modern French food: roast Landaise chicken with rosemary and olives, and poached foie gras with chanterelle mushrooms and baby leeks are two of the succulent choices. The elegant setting has trendy terra-cotta walls and jazz playing in the background. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

Blue Elephant
Ch. de Waterloo 1120, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/374-4962
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
Thai

In the suburb of Uccle, this excellent Thai restaurant is owned by Karl Steppe, the antiques dealer behind the city's top Indian restaurant, La Porte des Indes. Opened in 1975, this is the cornerstone of the Blue Elephant empire, which now extends to London, Paris, Copenhagen, New Delhi, Dubai, and Beirut. Inside, it's like a tropical garden scattered with southeast Asian antiques; daylight floods in from above and filters through the splendid greenery and exotic flower arrangements. The food is just as impressive: curries seasoned with lemongrass, coconut milk, and aromatic spices. The set lunch is a good value. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.

Bonsoir Clara
R. Dansaert 22, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/502-0990
Under EUR37
Lower Town
Contemporary

On downtown's trendy Rue Dansaert, this is the jewel in the crown of young restaurateur Frédéric Nicolay, who runs half a dozen fashionable cafés and eateries in the capital, including the Kasbah next door. An upbeat, refined brasserie serving excellent caramelized duck as well as fish and red-meat dishes, it's best-known for eye-catching decor, especially a back wall entirely composed of large colored squares, as if you were in a Rubik's Cube factory. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Brasseries Georges
Av. Winston Churchill 259, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/347-2100
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
French

This brash, hugely successful brasserie was the first in Brussels and is still the best. Efficient service and quality food is guaranteed. Past the splendid display of shellfish at the entrance, an art deco interior with a tile floor and potted palms awaits. Fast, efficient service is the hallmark of waitresses in black-and-white uniforms. Traditional dishes include sauerkraut, poached cod, and potted duck, while among the more adventurous dishes are salmon tartare and swordfish chop with a light chicory curry. Shellfish is the speciality. Twenty-five different wines are sold by the glass. AE, DC, MC, V.

Bruneau
Av. Broustin 75, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/427-6978
Over EUR87
West of Center
French

Although it's outside the city center, this quarter-century-old restaurant is famous with gourmets in Belgium and beyond. They come for top-notch food served in a lavishly decorated town house, or in the garden during summer. The food is complex and ornate, the wine list excellent. Jean-Pierre Bruneau works in the open kitchen and is a master of the culinary arts. His fans swear by his cooking and flex their plastic to prove it. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Tues. Closed Wed., Aug., and 1st wk Feb.

Castello Banfi
R. Bodenbroek 12, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-8794
EUR62 to EUR87
Upper Town
Contemporary

On the Grand Sablon in beige-and-brown postmodern surroundings, you can enjoy classic French and Italian dishes with added refinements, such as toasted pine nuts with pesto. There's excellent carpaccio with Parmesan and celery, red mullet with ratatouille, and unbelievable mascarpone. The quality of the ingredients (sublime olive oil, milk-fed veal imported from France) is very high. The wine list is strong on fine Chianti aged in wood. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun. Closed Mon., Easter wk, Christmas wk, and last 3 wks Aug.

Chez Jean
R. des Chapeliers 6, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-9815
Under EUR37
Lower Town
Belgian

Jean Cambien runs a reliable, unpretentious restaurant, unchanged since 1931. Oak benches sit against the walls, which are backed by mirrors upon which the dishes of the day are written in whitewash. Waitresses in black and white serve poached cod, mussels cooked in white wine, chicken waterzooi (with free seconds and thirds), chicken in kriek (cherry-flavored lambic beer) with cherries, and other quintessentially Belgian fare. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and June.

Chez Léon de Bruxelles
R. des Bouchers 18, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-1415
Under EUR37
Lower Town
Belgian

More than a century old, this cheerful restaurant has over the years expanded into a row of eight old houses, while its franchises can now be found across Belgium and even in Paris. Heaped plates of mussels and other Belgian specialties, such as eels in a green sauce and fish soup, are continually served, accompanied by arguably the best french fries in town. AE, DC, MC, V.

Comme Chez Soi
Pl. Rouppe 23, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-2921
Over EUR87
Lower Town
Belgian

Pierre Wynants, the perfectionist owner-chef, has decorated his bistro-size restaurant in sumptuous art nouveau style. The superb cuisine, excellent wines, and attentive service complement the warm decor. Wynants is ceaselessly inventive, and earlier creations are quickly relegated to the back page of the menu. One all-time favorite, fillet of sole with a white wine mousseline and shrimp, is, however, always available. One minus: ventilation is poor and it can get very smoky. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon., July, Dec. 25-Jan. 1.

De la Vigne à l'Assiette
R. de la Longue Haie, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/647-6803
Under EUR37
Upper Town
French

This homely, no-frills bistro off Avenue Louise opened in early 2000 and offers food and wine that's an exceptionally good value. The modern French cuisine is embellished with such exotic flourishes as star anise sauce with Asian spicing, and grilled salmon topped with crisp angel-hair pastry. Menus, which change with the seasons, include interesting choices like hop shoots topped with a poached egg, and frothy mousseline sauce. The excellent wine list, chosen by co-owner Eddy Dandrimont, a former best sommelier of Belgium, is free of the usual hefty markup. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Falstaff
R. Henri Maus 19, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-9877
Under EUR37
Lower Town
Belgian

This huge Brussels tavern dishes up the straightforward Belgian cuisine that makes it popular with everyone from students to pensioners, an extensive menu of cocktails, and some Cuban sounds. Customers are welcome well into the early hours (5 AM on weekends). The Latin-flavored Montecristo Café next door is owned by the same group and gets louder and fuller the later it gets. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gallery
R. du Grand Cerf 7, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-8035
Under EUR37
Upper Town
Vietnamese

This Vietnamese restaurant looks like a minimalist art gallery, with contemporary black chairs and tables, artfully suspended spotlights, and temporary exhibitions of black-and-white photographs. The kitchen holds no surprises, but the food is well prepared and the helpings of dishes such as Vietnamese pancakes, hot-and-sour soup, and beef with chilis and peppers are substantial. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun. Closed 1 wk in Aug.

In 't Spinnekopke
Pl. du Jardin aux Fleurs 1, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-8695
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Belgian

This is where true Brussels cooking has survived and continues to flourish. The low ceilings and benches around the walls remain from its days as a coach inn during the 18th century. You can choose from among 100 artisanal beers, and many dishes are made with beer. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

Inada
R. de la Source 73, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/538-0113
EUR62 to EUR87
Upper Town
French

This restaurant on a residential street near the Porte de Hal does exceptional French cuisine courtesy of Japanese chef and owner, Saburo Inada, who reportedly gets his poultry from the same supplier as French President Jacques Chirac. The approach is low-key, but the linen-covered tables are well-spaced and the food and wine are excellent. The dishes incorporate subtle Asian influences, such as the young caramelized pigeon in an Oriental sauce, and Japanese-style grilled-eel salad. AE, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun., Mon., last 2 wks July, and 1st wk Aug.

Jacques
Quai aux Briques 44, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/513-2762
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Seafood

Quality and simplicity are the watchwords in this busy fish restaurant, which serves its speciality unadorned, with just boiled potatoes or frites and a simple green salad. Eels in green sauce, tomatoes stuffed with tiny grey shrimps, and scampi with garlic are typical of the Belgian specialities dished up in a bistro setting. Lobster must be ordered in advance and sauces are available as extras. A note of warning: it's noisy and smoky, and service is on the surly side. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and July.

Kushi-tei of Tokyo
R. Lesbroussart 118, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/646-4815
Under EUR37
South of Center
Japanese

This restaurant offers an authentic Japanese experience that is sushi-free. It specializes in kushiyaki (wooden skewers of meat and vegetables grilled over charcoal), including chicken teriyaki. The chef works in sight of diners behind a counter. Wine, sake, and Japanese beer are available. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

L'Ecailler du Palais Royal
R. Bodenbroek 18, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-8751
Over EUR87
Upper Town
Seafood

This excellent seafood-only restaurant, just off the Grand Sablon, feels like a comfortable club; many of the clients seem to have known one another and the staff for years. The menu changes twice annually, but such delicacies as risotto of prawns in champagne, lobster ravioli, and top-quality turbot were among the recent choices. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Easter wk, Aug.

L'Epicerie
Meridien Hotel, Carrefour de l'Europe 3, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/548-4716
EUR62 to EUR87
Lower Town
French

Highly acclaimed young chef David Martin blends the traditional with the exotic here in the restaurant of the Meridien Hotel, opposite the Gare Centrale. In an elegant, Mediterranean-style setting, diners feast on sea bass with cocoa and thyme-flavored caramelized salsify; or hare in a sauce of dates, chestnuts, and oranges. On Sundays, a self-service brunch is served in place of the usual menu. A pianist tinkles away in the background every evening except Sunday. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.

L'Idiot du Village
R. Notre-Seigneur 19, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/502-5582
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
French

Don't believe the modest name of this restaurant in the Marolles; it serves excellent food and attracts a loyal clientele. The emphasis is on quality dining in a relaxed atmosphere rather than attracting the "in" crowd, and the decor is kitschy and warmly intimate. Sample dishes include grilled tuna with artichokes and Parmesan, and warm escalope (scallop) of foie gras with pepper and vanilla. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

La Clef des Champs
R. de Rollebeek 23, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-1193
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
French

Enter this restaurant and discover a corner of Provence on a cobbled street off the Place du Grand Sablon. The blue and yellow decor is set off by watercolors, photographs, and poems of the multitalented chef and owner. His welcoming wife, who sets the stage in the dining room, is a former dentist - the pair met when he went to have a tooth pulled! The cooking is regional French, with dishes including Mediterranean bass in olive oil; lobster gratin; and duck confit. With the charming service and the golden walls, this has to be one of the sunniest places in the city center. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon.

La Duchesse
Av. de Tervuren 134, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/741-8511
EUR62 to EUR87
Cinquantenaire and Schuman
French

The eatery within the homely Montgomery Hotel offers more than the average hotel restaurant. Chef Yves Defontaine specializes in fish but is extremely creative with vegetables, which he incorporates into inventive, modern French cuisine. Roast fillet of bass with tarragon and freshly grilled bacon with Guinea pepper is one of the specialities. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

La Grande Porte
R. Notre-Seigneur 9, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-8998
Under EUR37
Upper Town
Belgian

A longtime favorite in the Marolles area that makes no concession to fashion or style, this old place has a player piano and offhand but jovial waiters. It serves copious portions of popular Brussels specialties, such as ballekes à la marollienne (spicy meatballs) and carbonnade à la flamande (beef and onions stewed in beer). The later in the evening it gets, the livelier the atmosphere and the greater the demand for the restaurant's famous onion soup. MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

La Manufacture
R. Notre Dame du Sommeil, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/502-2525
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Contemporary

A former leather goods factory (for Belgian handbag brand Delvaux) converted into a restaurant of modern, industrial design, this place attracts a fashionable crowd that spills over into a quiet, sheltered courtyard. The cuisine mixes Mediterranean and Asian influences and the wine list is good, but people mostly come here for the superb setting. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

La Porte des Indes
Av. Louise 455, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/647-8651
EUR62 to EUR87
South of Center
Indian

This is the city's foremost Indian restaurant - the creation of Karl Steppe, a Belgian antiques dealer turned restaurateur, who also owns the global Blue Elephant chain. The gracious staff wears traditional Indian attire. The plant-filled lobby, wood carvings, and rich red and mauve decor provide a luxuriant backdrop. The cuisine ranges from a mild pilaf to a spicy vindaloo. The "brass tray" offers an assortment of specialties. A vegetarian menu is also available. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

La Quincaillerie
R. du Page 45, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/538-2553
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
French

The name means "The Hardware Store," and that's precisely what this place used to be. It still looks the part, except now there are tables perched on the narrow balcony, and there's an oyster bar downstairs. It attracts a youngish, upwardly mobile clientele and offers good deals on business lunches. The menu consists mostly of brasserie grub, such as baked ham knuckle, but it's enlivened by such selections as honey-baked Barbary duck with lime, and a glorious seafood platter. Regional and international specialties are often featured. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

La Roue d'Or
R. des Chapeliers 26, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/514-2554
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Belgian

This art nouveau brasserie has bright orange and yellow murals that pay humorous homage to Surrealist René Magritte. Bowler-hatted gentlemen ascend serenely to the ceiling, a blue sky inhabited by tropical birds. The good cuisine includes traditional Belgian fare - a generous fish waterzooi and homemade frites - as well as such staples of the French brasserie repertory as lamb's tongue vinaigrette with shallots, veal kidneys with tarragon and watercress cream, and foie gras. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed approximately July 15-Aug. 15.

La Truffe Noire
Bd. de la Cambre 12, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/640-4422
Over EUR87
South of Center
Contemporary

Luigi Ciciriello's "Black Truffle" attracts a sophisticated clientele with its modern design, well-spaced tables, and cuisine that draws on classic Italian and modern French cooking. Carpaccio is prepared at the table and served with long strips of truffle and Parmesan. Entrées may include Vendé pigeon with truffles, steamed John Dory with truffles and leeks, and leg of Pauillac lamb in pie crust. The restaurant also has a garden. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun., Jan. 1-10, last wk July, 1st 2 wks Aug.

Le Fils de Jules
R. du Page 37, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/534-0057
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
French

Vivid, colorful Basque cuisine from southwest France is served with wines to match within the candlelit, art deco-inspired setting. A well-heeled, local crowd flocks here to sup on warm foie gras with grapes, and tartare of tuna with tapenade. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Le Forcado
Ch. de Charleroi 192, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/537-9220
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
Portuguese

Not a piece of butter can be found in this Portuguese restaurant where olive oil reigns supreme. Decorated in beautiful, blue and white antique tiles, it's the stylish eatery of choice for the capital's large Portuguese community. The speciality is the national dish of bacalhau (salt cod), which can be prepared every which way: try it simply grilled with garlic and olive oil. For a final treat, sample the pastries - made on the premises - with eggs, almonds, and oranges. The patisserie just round the corner on R. Américaine sells these, too. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug.

Le Joueur de Flûte
R. de l'Epée 26, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/513-4311
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
French

There's only space for 16 diners in this one-man-show restaurant, which offers a single menu each evening. Philippe Van Cappelen named his place after a drawing he picked up at the flea market, and the walls are decorated with musical manuscripts. It's an intimate, candlelit setting near the hulking Palais de Justice, and because of the formula it's only open for one service each evening. For an idea of what the day's menu is, think fillet of bass with mixed vegetables in olive oil, or Mechelen chicken with licorice. Reservations essential. MC, V. No lunch. Closed weekends.

Le Living Room
Ch. de Charleroi 50, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/534-4434
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
Eclectic

A modish restaurant that lives up to much of the hype, this place gets busy late on weekend evenings as night owls arrive to cluster around the bar. A fashionable, uptown crowd haunts the restaurant-cum-club, which is set in an attractive town house with dining on two floors and in the garden. The bar area bustles, while dining rooms at the front are more refined, with plush, modern decor and armchairs in bright-colored velvets. The menu is international, from Japan (sushi) and France (chicken breast with morels) by way of Thailand (sautéed beef); the wine list is equally diverse. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Le Pain et le Vin
Ch. d'Alsemberg 812A, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/332-3774
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
French

Good taste reigns supreme in this suburban temple to quality food and drink, with a contemporary, minimalist decor of dazzling white and dark wood seating. The restaurant is co-owned by acclaimed sommelier Eric Boschman; hence, the cellar is excellent, and wines can be ordered by the glass to accompany different courses of the pared-down cuisine. The large, paved garden surrounded by greenery is a plus in fine weather. AE, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

Le Saint-Boniface
R. St-Boniface 9, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-5366
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
French

Near the church of the same name in Ixelles, this defiantly untrendy restaurant serves wholesome, traditional fare from southern France. The intricacies of duck confit and andouillette (sausage made from pig's intestines) will be patiently explained by the friendly wife of the chef. Portions are generous and the setting is classic French bistro, with red-and-white checkered tablecloths, posters on the walls, and classical music or jazz in the background. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

Les Capucines
R. Jourdan 22, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/538-6924
EUR62 to EUR87
Upper Town
Belgian

This pleasant restaurant stands out amid the mediocre eateries in the Place Louise shopping area. The dining room is inviting, decorated in shades of green, with huge flower arrangements. Chef Pierre Burtonboy prepares such delicate dishes as grilled fillet of sea bream, set on a bed of shredded leek and dressed with nut oil; lamb interleaved with goose liver, rolled and encased in pastry, with rosemary and thinly sliced potatoes; bitter chocolate mousse with crème anglaise; and iced peach soup with mint. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Mon. Closed Sun., Easter, and 2nd ½ of Aug.

Les Petits Oignons
R. Notre-Seigneur 13, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-4738
EUR37 to EUR62
Upper Town
French

This airy 17th-century restaurant, in the heart of the Marolles, has been furnished with plants and bright, modern paintings. It places no demands on your palate, but the ambience is enticing, and you are well looked after. The menu changes every couple of weeks, but staples include fried goose liver with caramelized onions, roast pigeon with carrots and cumin, and leg of lamb with potatoes au gratin. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Maison du Cygne
R. Charles Buyls 2, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-8244
Over EUR87
Lower Town
Belgian

With decor to match its classic cuisine, this restaurant is set in a 17th-century guildhall on the Grand'Place. It's the place to go for power dining. The paneled walls of the formal dining room upstairs are hung with Old Masters, and a small room on the mezzanine contains two priceless Bruegels. Service is flawless in the grand manner of old. Typical French-Belgian dishes include cocotte d'écrévisses et petits gris de Namur (shrimp and crayfish), and agneau pavillac à Cygne (lamb). Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug.

Majestic
R. du Magistrat 33, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/639-1330
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
Contemporary

Grandiose, plush decor makes this town house restaurant and bar a fashionable hangout for an upwardly mobile crowd. Even the bathroom taps are a design statement. The cuisine, French with Asian influences, is equally trendy; however, it doesn't compromise on quality as might be expected. Baby lobster roasted in sauternes and flavored with curry, and duck's liver with roast figs in port are two of the dishes on offer. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Ogenblik
Galerie des Princes 1, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-6151
EUR62 to EUR87
Lower Town
French

This small, split-level restaurant, in a side alley off the Galeries St-Hubert, has all the trappings of an old-time bistro: green-shaded lamps over marble-top tables, sawdust on the floor, and laid-back waiters. There's nothing casual about the French-style cuisine, however: grilled sweetbreads with courgette gratin, millefeuille of lobster and salmon with a coulis of langoustines, saddle of lamb with spring vegetables and potato gratin. The selection of Beaujolais is particularly good. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Sea Grill
Radisson SAS Hotel, R. du Fossè aux Loups, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/227-3120
EUR62 to EUR87
Lower Town
Seafood

Dashing superstar chef Yves Mattagne presides in the kitchen of this, arguably the best seafood place in town and one of the restaurants in the Radisson SAS Hotel. Gastronomes rub shoulders here with tycoons and aristocrats, as they tuck into king crab from the Barents Sea, Brittany lobster in lobster press sauce, and line-caught sea bass prepared in crusted sea salt. Inevitably, because of it is located in a hotel, the restaurant has a rather corporate feel, but it is spacious and elegant, and service is impeccable. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. Closed Sun.

Strofilia
R. du Marché aux Porcs 11-13, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-3293
Under EUR37
Lower Town
Greek

Set in a restored 17th-century warehouse with exposed brick walls and a magnificent vaulted wine cellar, this restaurant has a good selection of hot and cold meze (appetizers) to mix and match, as well as salads for vegetarians. An eggplant purée with pine nuts, and minced lamb kebabs are among the choices. It's open until 1 AM on Friday and Saturday. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch. Closed Sun.

't Kelderke
Grand'Place 15, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/513-7344
Under EUR37
Lower Town
Belgian

This beautiful, 17th-century vaulted cellar restaurant features traditional Belgian cuisine served at plain wooden tables. Portions are generous and mussels are the house specialty. It's a popular place with locals, open from noon to 2 AM; even the house cat is friendly. Beware of the low door frame when entering. AE, DC, MC, V.

Taverne du Passage
Gal. de la Reine 30, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/512-3731
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Belgian

This art deco brasserie in the famous shopping arcade has been here since 1928 and remains a classic of its kind, serving chicken waterzooi, sauerkraut, and lobster from noon to midnight nonstop. Most fun of all, however, are the roasts, which are carved in front of you. The waiters are multilingual and jolly and the wine list is exceptional - not surprising in a restaurant owned by the president of the Belgian guild of wine waiters. Reserve a table outside if you like to watch the world go by. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. and Thurs. in June and July.

Thoumieux
R. Américaine 124, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/538-9909
EUR37 to EUR62
South of Center
French

One of the best-known brasseries in Paris brought a flavor of the French capital to a corner site in the Ixelles neighborhood, down the road from the Horta Museum. The traditional setting includes mirrors, cushioned benches, crisp white tablecloths, and waiters in long, starched aprons. On the menu are such French regional specialities as cassoulet (a bean and meat stew from the southwest) as well as typical brasserie staples: a seafood platter with lobster, and sweetbreads with egg, shallot, and herb dressing. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Villa Lorraine
Chaussée de la Hulpe 28, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/374-3163
Over EUR87
South of Center
Belgian

Generations of American business travelers have been introduced to the three-hour Belgian lunch at the opulent Villa, on the edge of the Bois de la Cambre. The green terrace room is light, elegant, and airy, and there's alfresco dining under the spreading chestnut tree. Feast on emincé (slices) of lobster with tomatoes, mozzarella and pesto, fried sweetbreads forestière (garnished with morels, bacon, and sautéed potatoes), or quails and duckling with peaches and green pepper. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 1st 3 wks July.

Vincent
R. des Dominicains 8-10, Brussels, Belgium
Phone: 02/511-2303
EUR37 to EUR62
Lower Town
Belgian

In a town where most of the fashionable places now concentrate on seafood, Vincent unapologetically remains a red-meat stronghold. Sides of beef and big slabs of butter in the window announce what awaits you. You pass through the kitchen on your way to the dining room, which is decorated with hand-painted tiles. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed 1st two wks Aug.