Restaurants in Boston.

Chef Tony Ambrose likes his flavors vivid and his presentations dramatic. The cuisine is a thoughtful blend of New England ingredients and international fusion preparations. Don't miss the lamb and pork offerings. The decor is designer chic: burnished woods, floor-to-ceiling glass windows, and an ever-changing arrangement of modern artwork. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Anthony's Pier 4
140 Northern Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/423-6363
$15 to $35
Waterfront
Seafood

This massive theme park of a restaurant rolls along, somewhat uncertainly, hosting celebration dinners for Bostonians and visitors alike. The main drawback: the famous long wait for a table, designed - some complain - to sell drinks. Once seated, you can dine very well on the top-quality seafood if you remember that simple preparations tend to be the best here. The wine list is remarkable, and there are scads of older wines at low prices. Reservations are virtually essential. Jacket required. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Antico Forno
93 Salem St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/723-6733
$15 to $35
North End
Italian

Many of the choices on this restaurant's menu come from its wood-burning brick oven, which turns out surprisingly delicate pizzas simply topped with tomato and fresh mozzarella. Don't overlook the handmade pastas; the specialty, gnocchi, is rich and creamy but light. The room is cramped and noisy, but the hubbub is part of the fun. AE, MC, V.

Artu
6 Prince St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/742-4336
$15 to $25
North End
Italian

The grill takes center stage at this casual Italian spot, where the air is perfumed with rosemary and the chefs have a habit of waving hello as diners arrive. Service is prompt, even when it gets busy (as it always is). Go for such specials as grilled lamb, sumptuous roasted vegetables, and sandwiches, all of which are reasonably priced. AE, MC, V.

Aspasia
377 Walden St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/864-4745
$15 to $25
Cambridge
Mediterranean

Aspasia has quietly become its own point of reference by attracting a stable crowd of neighborhood fans. The linen-draped tables are filled nightly with regulars, in for the robust but comforting Mediterranean-inspired handiwork of Olives alum Christos Tsardounis. Don't miss the sumptuous eggplant specials or the killer leg of lamb. AE, MC, V.

Aujourd'hui
200 Boylston St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/351-2071
Over $35
Back Bay
Contemporary

The formula for Aujourd'hui's success has been to speak softly and attract a discreet crowd. This formal dining room of the Four Seasons Hotel has become one of the city's power rooms - particularly for early morning breakfasts. The food reflects an inventive approach to regional ingredients and new American cuisine. Some entrées can be extremely rich, such as roasted Maine lobster with crabmeat wontons, but the menu also offers solid "alternative cuisine" and often-impressive vegetarian choices. Window tables overlook the Public Garden. High tea is not to be missed. Although a jacket's not absolutely required, it's a good idea. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Aura
Seaport Hotel, 1 Seaport La., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/385-4300
Over $26
Waterfront
Contemporary

Simplicity and seasonality are the keys to chef Ed Doyle's kitchen. Local farmers and fishermen make daily drops at the kitchen's back door and the menu changes accordingly. In spring look for asparagus; in fall order local squash. Dishes can be rich, such as foie gras with maple-braised shallots, or light, such as a morel, asparagus, and goat cheese tart. The ingredients are impeccable, and though the presentations are at times overly capricious, in the end the cuisine glows. Note that the service is included. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Baja Mexican Cantina
111 Dartmouth St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/262-7575
Under $25
South End
Mexican

Anything-but-traditional Mexican food is served in this postmodern Southwest spot. Start with a margarita made from your choice of premium tequilas. All the Cal-Mex food is quite good, with lots of vegetarian options. If you're health-conscious, go for the salads, relatively low-fat burritos, or the lean hamburger on tortilla. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Baraka Café
80 Pearl St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/868-3951
Under $25
Cambridge
Mediterranean

Tiny Baraka may be atmospherically challenged, but after a few bites you won't care. Chef-owner Alia Rejeb was born in France and raised in Tunisia - a fact reflected sharply in her menu. Imagine a smoky, creamy dish of peppers awakened with mint, oregano, and cheese (mechouia) or a heap of couscous with beans, melon, and lentils. Each is as unexpected and refreshing as the juxtaposition that inspired them: French class and Tunisian sass. AE, MC, V.

The Barking Crab Restaurant
88 Sleeper St. (Northern Ave. Bridge), Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-2722
Under $35
Waterfront
Seafood

This is, believe it or not, a seaside clam shack plunk in the middle of Boston, with a stunning view of the downtown skyscrapers. An outdoor lobster tent in summer, in winter it retreats indoors to a warm-hearted version of a waterfront dive, with chestnuts roasting on a cozy wood stove. Look for the classic New England clambake - chowder, lobster, steamed clams, corn on the cob - or the spicier crab boil. The fried food lags. AE, DC, MC, V.

Bella Luna
405 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, MA, USA
Phone: 617/524-6060
$15 to $25
Jamaica Plain
Contemporary, Italian

Sci-fi jokes are sprinkled across this spot's spaced-out menu of eccentric pizzas, calzones, and Italian standards. The "Brendan Behan" pizza is topped with goat cheese and roasted red peppers, while the "Diedre Delux" mixes dried cranberries, caramelized onions, and Gorgonzola cheese. Work by local artists lines the walls, while local musicians provide the music. (The weekly schedule could range from jazz to rock.) AE, D, MC, V.

Biba
272 Boylston St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-7878
Over $26
Back Bay
Contemporary

Chef and owner Lydia Shire's head-turning cuisine remains the cream of Boston's culinary crop. And for good reason: the adventurous menu encourages inventive combinations, unusual cuts of meat, haute comfort food, and big postmodern desserts. Indulge in "classic lobster pizza" or challenge your palate with vanilla chicken with chestnut puree. Try to finagle a seat near the windows on the second floor for a terrific view of the Public Garden. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Blue Room
1 Kendall Sq., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/494-9034
$26 to $35
Cambridge
Contemporary

Totally hip, funky, and Cambridge, the Blue Room, led by Steve Johnson, the convivial owner-chef, blends a host of international cuisines with fresh, local ingredients. Brightly colored furnishings, counters where you can meet others while you eat, and a friendly staff add up to a good-time place that's serious about food. Try the seared scallops with hoisin sauce and sesame, or perhaps the barrel-aged-bourbon crème brûlée with hazelnut biscotti. An extraordinary brunch with a buffet of grilled meats and vegetables, as well as regular breakfast fare and a gorgeous array of desserts, is served on Sunday. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Bob the Chef's
604 Columbus Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/536-6204
$15 to $35
South End
Southern

Boston's home of genteel soul food and jazz attracts a mellow mix of yuppies and neighborhood families. Given the gentility, opt for the crab cakes, catfish fingers, chitterlings, and "glorifried" chicken rather than the ribs or chicken wings, which are baked, not smoked. The all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch is a surefire way to lift your spirits, especially when there's live gospel music. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Bombay Bistro
1353 Beacon St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/734-2879
$15 to $25
Brookline
Indian

One of Brookline's more unusual restaurants offers excellent north Indian cuisine as well as a couple of hot and spicy south Indian dishes such as lamb vindaloo for good measure. Diners unfamiliar with Indian food should try any of the combination plates, especially the tandoori mix (an assortment of chicken, lamb, and shrimp cooked in a clay oven). The variety of specialty breads is impressive. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Border Café
32 Church St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/864-6100
Under $25
Cambridge
Mexican

Reasonably priced Sunbelt fare - Tex-Mex with Cajun and Caribbean influences - and a tightly packed Margaritaville bar scene have the Harvard Square crowd thronging here on weekends. The Cajun shrimp is a favorite, as is the burro (a burrito with enchilada sauce). AE, MC, V.

Brasserie Jo
120 Huntington Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/425-3240
$26 to $35
South End
French

A little chain action by Alsatian chef Jean Joho, toast of Chicago, hums busily from its classy breakfast through post-Symphony snacks (it's open 'til 1 AM) in a setting evoking '40s Paris. "Brasserie" originally meant brewery - this one is bigger, louder, and more versatile than a bistro. Still, it perfectly carries off such classic bistro food as hanger steak and onion soup gratinée as well as beer-friendly Alsatian food like choucroûte à l'Alsacienne (sausages, a cured pork chop, and a pork quenelle, all on a bed of sauerkraut). Serious martinis are on hand, too. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Brew Moon
115 Stuart St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/742-2739
Under $25
Back Bay
Contemporary

Instead of having the usual industrial decor of a brewpub, these two Boston-area locations of the Brew Moon minichain look like New Age California outposts. The food tends to have ale as an ingredient - sometimes successfully, sometimes with too heavy a hand. Service has been known to lag, but that doesn't stop the crowds from piling in. As with many brewpubs, the darker, stronger ales are best. Save room for serious desserts. Other location: 50 Church St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, PHONE: 617/499-2739. AE, DC, MC, V.

Bricco
241 Hanover St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/248-6800
$15 to $35
North End
Italian

A sophisticated but unpretentious enclave of nouveau Italian, Bricco has carved out quite a following. And no wonder: the velvety butternut squash soup alone is argument for a reservation. Simple but well-balanced main courses such as roasted rabbit loin wrapped in pancetta have a sweet smokiness that lingers. You're likely to want to linger in the warm room, too, gazing through the floor-to-ceiling windows while sipping a glass of Sangiovese. AE, DC, MC, V.

Bukhara
701 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, MA, USA
Phone: 617/522-2195
Under $25
Jamaica Plain
Indian

The helpful staff here guides you through menu choices that span the cuisines of several Indian regions. The condiments alone could keep your palate occupied, but good choices are dosas (sourdough pancakes), curries, and anything from the tandoori oven. The spice quotient varies from mild to incendiary. AE, D, MC, V.

Café Brazil
421 Cambridge St., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/789-5980
Under $25
Allston
Brazilian

Terrific meaty entrées from Brazil's Minas Gerais region fill the menu of this little place, including a fine mixed grill and a couple of fish stews from the neighboring province of Bahia. There is also a great version of the fried yucca appetizer, mandioca. The decor is basic travel posters, but the down-home Brazilian cooking is almost as good as a trip to Brazil itself. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Café St. Petersburg
236 Washington St., Brookline Village, MA, USA
Phone: 617/277-7100
Under $25
Brookline
Russian

It may be billed as "imperial Russian cuisine," but the sprightly food and betuxed servers (in black tie even during lunch) spare us any Dostoevskian gloom. This tiny café is just a great place to eat, from the opening shot of frozen cranberry vodka and the superb "venigret" salad of beets and potatoes to clean-tasting borscht, blini with smoked salmon and salmon caviar, and vegetarian treats such as vegetarian stuffed cabbage with raisins. Turkish coffee is the best dessert. There is live music Thursday through Sunday nights and impressive modern Russian art on the walls. D, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Casa Portugal
1200 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/491-8880
$15 to $25
Cambridge
Portuguese

The oldest continuing Portuguese restaurant in the Azorean neighborhood east of Inman Square serves specialties such as pork with clams and squid stew simmered to tenderness and complexity. You'll find great fried potatoes (brought to your table with every dinner order), and the Portuguese wines are excellent bargains, too. AE, D, MC, V.

Casablanca
40 Brattle St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/876-0999
$15 to $35
Cambridge
Mediterranean

Long before The Rocky Horror Picture Show, Harvard and Radcliffe types would put on trench coats and head to the Brattle Theatre to see Casablanca, rising to recite the Bogart and Bergman lines in unison. Then it was on to this restaurant for more of the same. The path to this local institution is still well worn, thanks to the Tunisian spoon lamb with spiced figs, turnips, and couscous, and the cod Casablancaise with Moroccan spices. The half-dozen desserts - such as chocolate turnover with ice cream and clove syrup - are substantial. AE, MC, V.

Chau Chow
50-52 Beach St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/292-5166
Under $25
Chinatown
Chinese

Chiu Chow (or Chaozhou in China) is the term for people from Shantou (formerly Swatow). They and their wonderful seafood cuisine migrated all over Southeast Asia and around the world, introducing other cultures to clams in black bean sauce, steamed sea bass, and dishes with their famous ginger sauce. Your best bet is not to order from the menu per se but to look around at what others are eating and order that way. It's not as rude as it sounds. Besides this location, there's a larger storefront, Grand Chau Chow, right across the street, which accepts credit cards. No credit cards.

Chau Chow City
83 Essex St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/338-8158
Under $35
Chinatown
Chinese

This is the newest, biggest, glitziest, and most versatile production yet from the Chau Chow dynasty, on three floors, with dim sum by day and live-tank seafood by night. Overwhelmed? Order the clams in black bean sauce, the sautéed pea pod stems with garlic, and the honey glazed-walnut jumbo shrimp. AE, D, MC, V.

Chez Henri
1 Shepard St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/354-8980
Over $26
Cambridge
Eclectic

French with a Cuban twist - odd bedfellows, but it works for this sexy, confident restaurant. The dinner menu gets serious with duck tamale and ancho chili, garlicky salsify-oyster bisque, and a creamy, tangy lime tart. At the cozy bar you can sample turnovers, fritters, and grilled three-pork Cuban sandwiches. The place fills quickly with Cantabrigian locals - an interesting mix of students, professors, and sundry intelligentsia. Brunch is served on Sunday. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Choe's Café
957 Commonwealth Ave., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/783-8702
Under $15
Allston
Korean

This oddly shaped spot serves up outstanding Korean food and very good sushi. Make a beeline for the seafood scallion pancake and hot spicy squid. The food is kept honest by Korean students who drift up from Boston University. MC, V. No lunch Sun.

Claremont Café & Lounge
535 Columbus Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/247-9001
$15 to $35
South End
Mediterranean

In a city full of bistros, this one is exceptional. Every stew and salad is ripe with flavor; even the potent coffee and desserts maintain the intensity. The menu focuses on pastas and risottos from Italy, France, and Spain, but the Peruvian-born owners also work in a few dishes from that great cuisine, such as aji de gallina, a chicken fricasseed in mild chilies and garlic. It opens daily for breakfast at 7:30 and is open for brunch on weekends. AE, MC, V.

Clio
Eliot Hotel, 370 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/536-7200
Over $26
Back Bay
Contemporary

Years ago when Ken Oringer opened his snazzy leopard skin-lined hotspot in the tasteful boutique Eliot Hotel, the hordes were fighting over reservations. Things have certainly quieted down since then, but the food hasn't. Luxury ingredients pack the menu, from the now-ubiquitous Hudson Valley foie gras to more-adventurous rarities - for instance, tiny eels called elvers that Oringer has been known to serve when he can get them in-season. Desserts can be hit-or-miss, but odds are you'll be too full to care. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V.

Cottonwood Café
222 Berkeley St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/247-2225
$15 to $35
Back Bay
Contemporary

This is Tex-Mex pushed to the next dimension, with exotic architectural touches and rustic Southwestern details. Best is the Snake Bite appetizer: deep-fried jalapeños stuffed with shrimp and cheese - impossible to resist yet nearly too spicy-hot to eat. The lunch menu's zuni roll is like a hot sauce-spiked club sandwich in a wrap. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Daily Catch
323 Hanover St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/523-8567
$15 to $25
North End
Seafood

Shoulder-crowding small, this storefront restaurant specializes in calamari dishes, black squid-ink fettuccine, and linguine with clam sauce. You've just got to love this place - for the noise; the intimacy; and, above all, the food. There's something about a big skillet of linguine and calamari that would seem less perfect if served on fine white china. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards.

Ducky Wok
122-126 Harvard Ave., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/782-8868
$15 to $25
Allston
Vietnamese

Despite the silly name, this is an outstanding restaurant, the first outside Chinatown to feature live-tank seafood, and one of the few Chinese-Vietnamese restaurants whose menu is equally strong with both cuisines. Don't miss the daily tank seafood special, the stir-fried pea pod stems, or the sautéed chicken with lemongrass. AE, D, MC, V.

Durgin Park
340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/227-2038
$15 to $35
Faneuil Hall
American

You should be hungry enough to cope with enormous portions, yet not so hungry you can't tolerate a long wait. Durgin Park was serving its same hearty New England fare (Indian pudding, baked beans, corned beef and cabbage, and a prime rib hanging over the edge of the plate) back when Faneuil Hall was a working market instead of a tourist attraction. The service is famously brusque bordering on rude bordering on good-natured. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

East Coast Grill and Raw Bar
1271 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/491-6568
$26 to $35
Cambridge
Contemporary

Owner-chef-author Chris Schlesinger built his national reputation on grilled foods and red-hot condiments. The Jamaican jerk, North Carolina pulled pork, and habañero-laced "pasta from Hell" are still here, but this restaurant has made an extraordinary play to establish itself in the front ranks of fish restaurants. Spices and condiments are more restrained, and Schlesinger has compiled a wine list bold and flavorful enough to match the highly spiced food. The dining space is completely informal. Brunch is served on Sunday. AE, D, MC, V. No lunch.

eat
253 Union St., Somerville, MA, USA
Phone: 617/776-2889
$15 to $25
Cambridge
American

Neither the silverware nor the plates match here - in fact, everything in this homey Somerville eatery is mismatched except the tasty food and genuine hospitality. The menu is filled with laid-back comfort favorites such as braised lamb shanks with mashed potatoes or roasted chicken. Reservations not accepted. MC, V.

El Oriental de Cuba
416 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, MA, USA
Phone: 617/524-6464
Under $25
Jamaica Plain
Caribbean

This small haven serves a large variety of excellent Cuban food, including a healing chicken soup, a classic Cuban sub, superb rice and beans (opt for the red beans over the black beans), and sweet "tropical shakes." The tostones (twice-fried plantains) are beloved during cold New England winters by the city's many Cuban transplants. El Oriental is also a good breakfast spot. MC, V.

Elephant Walk
2067 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/492-6900
$15 to $35
Cambridge
Eclectic

The chef of this popular Cambodian-French fusion house, Langtaine de Monteiro, learned to manage a Cambodian kitchen as the wife of a diplomat and for a time ran a restaurant in Provence. The common element is garlic, from a French appetizer such as moules (mussels) swimming in garlic butter to superb Cambodian spring rolls, delicate salads, and a red curry of surpassingly fresh flavor. A second, larger Elephant Walk opened near Porter Square in 1998 without skipping a bicultural beat. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Elephant Walk
900 Beacon St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/247-1500
$15 to $35
Brookline
Eclectic

Technically this Elephant Walk is in Boston, but psychologically it is the gateway to Brookline. It carries on the tradition of its home base in Cambridge, except here it's above ground, larger, and goes deeper into both modern French platters and what the menu calls "challenging tastes" - such as a dip made from Cambodian shrimp paste. Tease your palate with an exotic assortment of dumpling appetizers, spring rolls that you wrap in fresh lettuce leaves, and mouthwatering coq au vin. The airy atmosphere evokes a British Colonial hotel; the food reminds you of why Phnom Penh was "the Paris of Asia." The desserts, though, are pure Paris. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The Federalist
15 Beacon St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/670-2515
Over $35
Downtown
Contemporary

Now that the initial buzz has calmed, you can actually get a Saturday night reservation less than a month in advance at this sophisticated restaurant in the swanky Fifteen Beacon Hotel. Chef Eric Brannan's menu is a melding of modern and traditional, driven by local ingredients. Look for seared diver scallops with butternut squash and mushrooms or non-oceanic choices, such as the rack of lamb or beef Wellington. The wine list, with more than 1,000 entries, is impressive but expensive. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Franklin Cafe
278 Shawmut Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/350-0010
$15 to $25
South End
Contemporary

This place has jumped to the head of the class by keeping things simple yet effective. (Its litmus: local chefs gather here to wind down after work.) Try anything with the great chive mashed potatoes. The vibe is generally more bar than restaurant, so be forewarned: it can get loud and smoky. Desserts are not served. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V.

Fugakyu
1280 Beacon St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/734-1268
$15 to $35
Brookline
Japanese

The name sounds awkward in English, but in Japanese it means "house of elegance." The restaurant's interior hits the mark, with tatami mats, rice-paper partitions, and wooden ships circling a moat around the sushi bar. The menu is both elegant and novel, with Boston's first live-tank sashimi, the rare Japanese matsutake mushrooms in a vegetarian stir-fry, and appetizers such as ikura tanzaku (an orange-on-orange combination of salmon, salmon eggs, and Japanese yam) served in a martini glass. Bento boxes and noodle soups are available at lunch only. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Full Moon
344 Huron Ave., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/354-6699
$26 to $35
Cambridge
American

This welcoming family spot is a happy reminder that dinner with children doesn't have to mean hamburgers. Youngsters can spread out with plenty of play space and juice-filled sippy cups while adults weigh the substantial menu and a well-paired wine list. Choices go beyond child faves such as pasta to entrées such as grilled trout with caper-shallot butter and roasted new potatoes. Reservations not accepted. MC, V.

Ginza
16 Hudson St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/338-2261
$15 to $35
Brookline
Japanese

The Chinatown branch is thought to have the most advanced sushi in town and serves until 3:30 AM on weekends, but the Brookline location is just as good and gains extra points for its selection of 15 brands of hot sake. Avant-sushi these days includes hot spices, fried morsels, boozy marinades, and presentations with such props as a martini glass. A quick anthology is the "Ginza Surprise," consisting of a daily assortment of chef's eccentricities, such as "caterpillar maki," with avocado scales. There are lots of good appetizers and hot dinners as well, including teriyaki, tempura, and nabemono (one-pot meal). Other location: 1002 Beacon St., Brookline, PHONE: 617/566-9688. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Chau Chow
41-45 Beach St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-6266
Under $25
Chinatown
Chinese

Across the street from Chau Chow, Grand Chau Chow is larger, looks a little nicer on the outside, has live fish tanks, and accepts credit cards. Here, too, it's perfectly acceptable to look around at what others are eating and order the same.

Green Street Grill
280 Green St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/876-1655
$26 to $35
Cambridge
Contemporary

The tables are small, the room is plain, the service is casual, and the bar next door mixes Bohemians with just-plain drunks, but Caribbean-born co-owner-chef John Levins is one of the living masters of mixing hot spices with other distinctive flavors. A recent example: "beaten boiled conchmeat simmered in a Scotch bonnet chili pepper, lime thyme, green plantain, green papaya, wild herb, rum sauce." But expect an entirely different - and elaborate - preparation with Caribbean grouper or Muscovy duck. AE, MC, V.

Grill 23 & Bar
161 Berkeley St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/542-2255
Over $26
Back Bay
Steak

Pinstriped suits, dark paneling, comically oversized flatware, and waiters in white jackets give this steak house a posh, men's-club ambience. But the menu is anything but predictable, offering dishes such as rotisserie tenderloin with Roquefort mashed potatoes and meat loaf served with mashed potatoes and truffle oil. Seafood such as the grilled Maine salmon gives beef sales a run for their money. Desserts, like the wonderfully tangy lemon cheesecake and the super-rich fallen chocolate soufflé cake, are far above those of the average steak house. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Hamersley's Bistro
553 Tremont St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/423-2700
Over $26
South End
Contemporary

Gordon Hamersley has earned a national reputation, thanks to such signature dishes as his grilled mushroom-and-garlic sandwich, duck confit, and souffléed lemon custard. He's one of Boston's great chefs and likes to sport a Red Sox cap instead of a toque. His place has a full bar, a café area with 10 tables for walk-ins, and a larger dining room that's a little more formal and decorative than the bar and café, though nowhere near as stuffy as it looks. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The Harvest
44 Brattle St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/868-2255
Over $26
Cambridge
Contemporary

The lavish menu of up-to-date dishes is hedged with a little comfort food - mashed potatoes, baked beans, house fries. Start with raw seafood or the elaborately presented New England clam chowder with finnan haddie; then move on to roast monkfish, osso buco, or roast lamb. Pore over the selection of Very Important Desserts, all masterminded by confectionary cult figure Lee Napoli and her up-and-coming protogé, Alice Weibusch. The open kitchen makes some noise, but customers at the ever-popular bar don't seem to mind. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The Helmand
143 1st St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/492-4646
$15 to $35
Cambridge
Afghan

The area's first Afghan restaurant is named after a province of Afghanistan south of Kabul. Try any of the three kinds of great rice, some fine sour soups, terrific aushak (ravioli stuffed with leeks), the various kebabs you might expect, and an excellent vegetarian menu you might not, with a number of choices grilled and stewed in novel ways. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Icarus
3 Appleton St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-1790
Over $26
South End
Contemporary

Be ready for an exotic menu of real intensity. Inventive touchstones such as maple-and-bourbon glazed pork chops with sweet potato and leek soufflé and jalapeño sorbet form the basis of the seasonal menu. The romantic two-tier dining room offers excellent service, and an extensive wine list complements the fare. Friday nights are spiked with live jazz. To get even cozier, reserve a private dining room. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Imperial Seafood House
70 Beach St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-8543
Under $35
Chinatown
Chinese

On the first floor is a wonderful (and seldom crowded) Cantonese restaurant specializing in seafood. The livelier second floor is a large, airy dining room with the most extensive dim sum selection in Chinatown. Dim sum denotes both the meal (a veritable Chinese brunch, served daily 8:30-3:30) and the variety of dumplings and buns, tiny spareribs, morsels of pork, chicken, clams, shrimp, and other foods that you select from roving carts and pay for by the item. Pointing is fine. The selection is wider when the restaurant is more crowded with weekend shoppers, mostly suburban Chinese-Americans. AE, MC, V.

Jae's Café and Grill
520 Columbus Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/421-9405
$15 to $35
South End
Pan-Asian

Jae's Korean-Californian fusion has a definite way of bringing the taste buds back to life. That's one reason why a young, happening crowd fills the place. They cram the sushi bar, delight in the dishes served in hot-stone pots, and like their rice noodles with barely cooked vegetables. In summer, there's lots of sidewalk seating, the best spots of all. -A larger branch in the theater district (212 Stuart St., PHONE: 617/451-7788) focuses on Korean specialties such as yukhai (marinated raw beef) and fried dumplings. AE, DC, MC, V.

Jake's Boss BBQ
3294 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, MA, USA
Phone: 617/983-3701
Under $25
Jamaica Plain
Southern

Right next to Doyle's, Jamaica Plain's great neighborhood bar, Jake's fills the food side of the equation with impressive Texas-style smoked meats and some North Carolina pulled pork that Kenton Jacobs picked up during a stint with the East Coast Grill and Raw Bar. The brisket sandwich is perfection of its kind. DC, MC, V.

Jimmy's Harborside
242 Northern Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/423-1000
$15 to $35
Waterfront
Seafood

Rivaling Anthony's Pier 4 for celebrations, this exceedingly popular seafood establishment has aged more gracefully. The fish chowder is as fresh and bright-tasting as ever, and simply broiled or fried seasonal fish specials are excellent (although you swim through a lot of cream sauce to find the traditional finnan haddie). The wine list is almost all American, with oversize bottles a specialty, and wisely divided by match-ups, although you might want to reverse things and have chardonnay with oysters and Riesling with lobster. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

Julien
Hotel Meridien, 250 Franklin St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/451-1900
Over $35
Downtown
French

Start with the handsomest dining room in the city - a soaring space that used to be the boardroom of the Federal Reserve Bank, with Renaissance Revival gilded cornices and limestone walls. Then serve some of the best French food in Boston - such as a ravioli appetizer stuffed with frogs' legs and parsley puree and garnished with garlic cream or a sautéed Maine lobster en casserole with white beans, candied tomato, and rosemary. Little wonder Julien has become a favorite with French business travelers and Boston Francophiles. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Jumbo Seafood
7 Hudson St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/542-2823
Under $25
Chinatown
Chinese

Although this Cantonese-Hong Kong-style restaurant has much to be proud of, it's happily unpretentious. Have a whole sea bass with ginger and scallion to see what all the fuss is about. Nonoceanic offerings are equally outstanding, from the white rice to green vegetables such as stir-fried sugar snap pea tendrils. The Hong Kong influence results in a lot of fried food - the crispy fried calamari with salted pepper is a standout. The waiters are very understanding, though some don't speak English fluently. AE, MC, V.

L'Espalier
30 Gloucester St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/262-3023
Over $35
Back Bay
French

Call it French-inspired, call it contemporary New England - but whatever else, call it world class. Chef-owner Frank McClelland's masterpieces are every bit as impeccable and elegant as the Victorian Back Bay town house in which they are served. Grilled Hudson Valley foie gras is accompanied by quince-anise-cranberry compote; Périgord black truffles intensify the poached sole. You can skip the opulent menu by choosing a prix-fixe tasting menu, such as the innovative and flat-out fabulous vegetarian dégustation. With two fireplaces and subtle decor in truffle colors, L'Espalier is one of Boston's most romantic places - not for nothing did it nickname one of its chambers "the seduction room." Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

La Groceria
853 Main St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/876-4162
$15 to $35
Cambridge
Italian

A trattoria before trattorias were cool, this place draws loyal lovers of Italian food. Instant favorites are the homemade pasta, the table of cold antipasti, the veal dishes, and the homemade cannoli. AE, D, MC, V.

Lala Rokh
97 Mt. Vernon St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/720-5511
$15 to $35
Beacon Hill
Middle Eastern

Persian miniatures and medieval maps cover the walls of this beautifully detailed and delicious fantasy of food and art. The menu focuses on the food of the Azerbaijani corner of Northwest Iran, including both exotically flavored specialties and dishes as familiar (but superb here) as eggplant puree, pilaf, kebabs, fesanjoon (the classic pomegranate-walnut sauce), and lamb stews. The staff obviously enjoys explaining the menu, and the wine list is well selected for foods that often defy wine matches. AE, DC, MC, V.

Le Gamin
550 Tremont St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/654-8969
Under $15
South End
French

Equal parts delicious, fast, and inexpensive, Le Gamin makes it hard to understand why crepes haven't permanently caught on in the United States. The small bistro strikes a friendly but French pose with specials such as the buckwheat crepe with smoked salmon, basil cream, and veggies. Sweeter options include a cognac-driven flambée crepe or a sweetly sour fresh-fruit version. Regular sandwiches, pastry, and coffee are also good options, but the real draws here are the Parisian pancakes. MC, V.

Legal Sea Foods
26 Park Sq., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-4444
Under $35
Back Bay
Seafood

What began as a tiny restaurant upstairs over a Cambridge fish market has grown to important regional status, with more than 20 East Coast locations. The hallmark, as always, is extra-fresh seafood. As the organization has matured, it has applied the same standards to the trimmings and wine list. Once puritanically simple preparations have loosened up to include Asian, European, and Caribbean sauces, and wood grilling is now the preparation of choice. Rhode Island clam chowder with tomatoes has been allowed onto the menu alongside the traditional milk chowders, and the smoked bluefish pâté is delectable. Dishes arrive at the table in whatever order they come out of the kitchen, as freshness is held to be more important than the order of courses. If you miss a flight at Logan Airport, a Legal restaurant there can make it one of the most delicious missed flights of your life. Reservations not accepted, but a preferred seating list allows calls ahead. Other locations: 255 State St., PHONE: 617/227-3115; 5 Cambridge Center, Kendall Sq., Cambridge, PHONE: 617/864-3400; Logan Airport, Terminal C, PHONE: 617/569-462. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Les Zygomates
129 South St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/542-5108
$15 to $35
Downtown
French

Les zygomates, in French, are the facial muscles that make you smile - and this combination wine bar-bistro inarguably lives up to its name, with classic French bistro fare that is both simple and simply delicious. The menu beautifully matches the ever-changing wine list, with all wines served by the 2-ounce taste, 6-ounce glass, or bottle. Two simply appointed dining rooms with exposed bricks and wooden beams allow you to relax and chat on one side or enjoy sultry live jazz in the other. Prix fixe menus are available for both lunch and dinner, and could include oysters by the half dozen or pancetta-wrapped venison with roasted pears. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Locke-Ober Café
3 Winter Pl., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/542-1340
Over $35
Downtown
Continental

It used to be that the only times the downstairs Men's Café was open to women were the night of the Harvard-Yale game and New Year's Eve, when the nude painting Mademoiselle Yvonne was draped. That changed in 1972, one of the few alterations since Louis Ober's Restaurant Parisien (founded 1875) was merged with Frank Locke's Wine Rooms in 1894. The ancient kitchen struggles to put out traditional Continental favorites, such as a flashy steak tartare, and unique Victoriana such as lobster Savannah (lobster with pimiento, green pepper, mushroom, sherry wine, and Parmesan cheese). If you want to eat here for the experience, stick to simple steaks and seafood. There is valet parking after 6 PM. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Lucky Garden
282 Concord Ave., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/354-9514
Under $25
Cambridge
Chinese

A modest holdover from the first, golden period of Szechuan food in Cambridge, Lucky Garden still serves excellent hot-and-sour soup, yu hsiang scallops (with garlic, hot pepper, and ginger), chicken and peanuts, and fried dumplings in a pleasant, comfortable atmosphere. Liquor isn't served. D, MC, V.

Magnolia
1193 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/576-1971
Under $25
Cambridge
Contemporary

The heady scent of sizzling hush puppies mixes with the spice of jambalaya in Inman Square's Southern outpost. Flavors are matched by the bright, tight setting - from the primary-color decor to the prompt and friendly service. Catch any of the delectable fish dishes (meaty crab cakes or grilled swordfish) and you won't regret it. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Maison Robert
45 School St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/227-3370
Over $15
Downtown
French

Chef Jacky Robert (nephew of founder Lucien Robert) is constantly modernizing the classic fare at his straight-backed French restaurant. So while service may be notoriously stiff, the food becomes less so every day. Look for delicious twists, such as grilled duck breast and pear salad with blackberry puree, that are every bit as elegant as the setting. The main dining room, dotted with chandeliers and graced with palatial ceilings, was once the treasurer's office of the old City Hall. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Mamma Maria
3 North Sq., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/523-0077
Over $26
North End
Italian

Don't let the clichéd name fool you - Mamma Maria is one of the most elegant and romantic restaurants in the North End, from the smoked-seafood ravioli appetizer to the innovative sauces and entrées to some of the best desserts in the North End. You can't go wrong with the daily tiramisu or such specials as chocolate hazelnut cake with a cold champagne sabayon and raspberry compote. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Marcuccio's
125 Salem St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/723-1807
$15 to $35
North End
Italian

The kitchen here has a history of pioneering the use of transparent, highly flavored broth-sauces, as weirdly effective as transparent beer. The veal marsala, grilled vegetables and other antipasti, and rosewater- and lavender-tinged desserts also stand out. There is a tasting menu, so you needn't miss anything. MC, V. No lunch.

Matt Murphy's Pub
14 Harvard St., Brookline Village, MA, USA
Phone: 617/232-0188
$15 to $25
Brookline
Irish

There are dozens of Irish pubs in Boston, but very few are notable for food - this being a welcome exception. Matt Murphy's makes real poetry out of thick slabs of bread and butter, giant soups, fish-and-chips served in a twist of newspaper, shepherd's pie, and hot rabbit pie - all served in enormous portions. Don't miss the homemade ketchup with your french fries. No credit cards.

Morton's of Chicago
1 Exeter Plaza, Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/266-5858
Over $35
Back Bay
Steak

A Chicago-based chain with an un-Bostonian (and arguably archaic) display of raw meat and live lobsters, Morton's is packed and often noisy. The real draw: the dry-aged, prime Angus steak. If you brave the 1½-hour Saturday wait, you deserve the 24-ounce porterhouse. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Mr. and Mrs. Bartley's Burger Cottage
1246 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/354-6559
Under $15
Cambridge
American

It may be perfect cuisine for the student metabolism: a huge variety of variously garnished thick burgers, french fries, and onion rings. (There's also a competent veggie burger.) The nonalcoholic "raspberry lime rickey," made with fresh limes, raspberry juice, sweetener, and soda water, is the must-try classic drink. Tiny tables in a crowded space make it a convenient place for eavesdropping. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Sun.

No-Name Restaurant
15½ Fish Pier , off Northern Ave., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/423-2705
Under $35
Waterfront
Seafood

Famous for not being famous, the No-Name has been serving fresh seafood, simply broiled or fried, since 1917. Being right on the fish pier has its advantages, but the troubled New England fishing fleet provides fewer fish than it once did. Like they say, it is what it is, but it ain't what it used to be. No credit cards.

No. 9 Park
9 Park St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/742-9991
Over $26
Beacon Hill
Contemporary

Chef Barbara Lynch's stellar cuisine draws plenty of attention from its place in the shadow of the State House's golden dome. Bold photos of familiar Boston scenes accent the sophisticated blue and celadon-green dining room. Settle in and indulge in rich pumpkin risotto with rare lamb or diver scallops with corn soufflé. The wine list bobs and weaves into new territory but is always well chosen. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

North East Brewing Company
1314 Commonwealth Ave., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/566-6699
$15 to $35
Allston
Contemporary

Bright, hoppy ales and a fresh, rich stout complement some very good American bistro cooking. The crab cakes, grilled chicken, and potato cakes with squash fritters are immediate knockouts, and the thin-crust pizza is excellent. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Olives
10 City Sq., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/242-1999
Over $26
Charlestown
Mediterranean

No longer will visitors to Olives see chef Todd English tending the wood-fired brick oven and the spit-roasting in the kitchen - these days, he's too busy watching over fast-track new enterprises, including Olives branches in Las Vegas, Washington, D.C., New York, and Aspen; a string of local gourmet pizzerias called Figs; and a line of pasta sauces. But don't worry, English's recipes are in good hands. Witness smart signature offerings such as the appetizer "Olives tart" with marinated olives, goat cheese, caramelized onions, and anchovies. Crowded seating, noise, long lines, and abrupt service only add to the legend. Come early or late or be prepared for an extended wait: dinner reservations are taken only for groups of six or more at 5:30 or 8:30. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Pandan Leaf
250 Harvard St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/566-9393
$15 to $35
Brookline
Malaysian

This highly popular Malaysian restaurant has good versions of the roti canai appetizer (chicken curry), coconut shrimp, and the yummy taro pots Boston knows from Penang in Chinatown, plus specialties of its own: a mild barbecued stingray and sweet-and-spicy fried Indonesian chicken. Pleasant service warms noticeably when patrons are enthusiastic about the more exotic dishes. AE, MC, V.

Penang
685-691 Washington St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/451-6372
$15 to $35
Chinatown
Malaysian

Penang is a resort island with a history like that of nearby Singapore and a cuisine of many influences - Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, Thai, and a bit of British Trader Vic. It all comes together in favorites such as the mashed-taro "yam pot" stir-fries, the house special squid with a dark and spicy sauce, an Indonesian beef curry called rendang, and enormous fried coconut shrimp, all paired with umbrella drinks. The open kitchen makes things loud, but the drama of watching the chefs stretch 4-ft sheets of see-through dough for roti canai (an Indian bread served with curry dipping sauce) is worth it. Reservations accepted for 6 or more only. MC, V.

Pho Pasteur
137 Brighton Ave., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/783-2340
Under $25
Allston
Vietnamese

Here the outstanding Vietnamese food is served in a less-crowded space than at its Chinatown location. The specialty, pho (beef bouillon), arrives in a huge bowl, delicately spiced and full of noodles and a selection of meat garnishes, with side salads you can toss into the bowl as well. For most diners, pho is a full meal. There are also savory rice plates and fine salads. (Vietnamese is the one Asian cuisine that gets into salads.) For dessert, try the fruit smoothies described as "milk shakes." AE, MC, V.

Pomodoro
319 Hanover St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/367-4348
$26 to $35
North End
Italian

This tiny gem of a trattoria is worth the wait, with excellent country Italian favorites such as white beans with pasta, roasted vegetables, and a fine salad of field greens. The best choice could well be the clam and tomato stew with herbed flat bread - don't forget to enjoy it with a bottle of Vernaccia. Pomodoro doesn't serve dessert, but it's easy to find great espresso and pastries in the cafés on Hanover Street. No credit cards.

Poppa & Goose
69 1st St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/497-6772
Under $25
Cambridge
Pan-Asian

This is ground zero in the M.I.T. area for fast, light, cheap Pan-Asian dishes - and don't think the high-tech workers from neighboring offices don't know it; the wait can get lengthy come lunchtime. The primarily Vietnamese menu offers up such specialties as shrimp in buttery green onions over rice vermicelli. Other Eastern staples include pad thai and chicken teriyaki - all best followed by warm mango crepes with cognac and vanilla ice cream. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Radius
8 High St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-1234
Over $35
Downtown
Contemporary

Chef Michael Schlow's notable contemporary French cooking lures scores of diners to the Financial District. The menu and the decor are minimalist at first glance, but closer inspection shows both complexity and whimsy. Peruse the menu for such choices as halibut tartare with osetra caviar or venison with kasha, sour cherries, and melted leeks. Reservations can be hard to come by, but there's a large communal table that is first come, first served. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

Rangoli
129 Brighton Ave., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/562-0200
$15 to $25
Allston
Indian

Most of what Americans think of as Indian food is decidedly northern Indian, so Rangoli offers a nice alternative journey into the hot and spicy (and relatively vegetarian) world of southern Indian cooking. Specialties include curries wrapped in dosa (sourdough pancakes) and idli sambar (fiery vegetable soup with soothing dumplings). AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Rhythm & Spice
315 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/497-0977
$15 to $25
Cambridge
Caribbean

You'll find mild-mannered Jamaican-style food and soca (a variation of calypso music) in this pretty restaurant, which has become a gathering spot for Boston's growing population of African-American academics and their friends. Top choices include the Gundy appetizer (a spread of chopped herrings and apples), the gentle curries, and the "festival" cakes made with cornmeal. When the live reggae and soca music starts up later in the evening, the dance floor gets hot, hot, hot. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

Rialto
Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St. , Harvard Sq., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/661-5050
Over $26
Cambridge
Mediterranean

The ultraposh Charles Hotel dining room continues a pleasant drift from its Mediterranean beginnings toward more French techniques and New England ingredients, such as Maine crab cakes and Macomber turnips (a local, sweet, white turnip). But the savory tarts and the Tuscan-style sirloin steak with sliced Portobello mushrooms and arugula salad are lifetime commitments. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Ristorante Euno
119 Salem St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/573-9406
$15 to $25
North End
Italian

Tiny and friendly, Euno is the North End's culinary mouse that roars. The rustic room used to be a butcher shop, and meat hooks still grace the wall, doubling as coat hangers. Everything from start (a bowl of the buttery olives) to middle (handmade pastas and risottos) to finish (duck ragout with pumpkin tortellini) explains why this postage-stamp gem is a neighborhood favorite. MC, V.

Rowes Wharf Restaurant
70 Rowes Wharf, Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/439-3995
Over $35
Waterfront
Contemporary

Rowes Wharf itself is stunning, and the restaurant in the Boston Harbor Hotel takes advantage of this, offering perhaps the city's finest waterfront view. The decor is highly traditional with plush upholstered armchairs, exquisite mahogany paneling, and shaded wall sconces. Chef Daniel Bruce creates scintillating modern menus between the field trips on which he takes his staff to hunt wild mushrooms - his personal passion. Sautéed local wild mushrooms over stone-ground polenta is his signature composition. The restaurant has Boston's most extensive list of American wines. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Rubin's
500 Harvard St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/731-8787
Under $25
Brookline
Kosher

The last kosher Jewish delicatessen in Boston serves a hand-cut pastrami sandwich a New Yorker can respect. (Be sure to order the "Hot Romanian Pastrami.") There are kasha varnishkes (buckwheat with bow-tie noodles), hot brisket, and many other high-cholesterol classics but, of course, no real cream for your coffee or dairy desserts. AE, DC,