Chef Xavier Pellicer, formerly with Santi Santamaria's Racó de Can Faves in Sant Celoni, is clearly headed for the stars after a brilliant opening in late 1999. The food is "cuisine d'auteur," original Pellicer from soup to nuts: both international and Catalan, traditional and daringly innovative. Try the espardenyas con raviolis de enojo (cuttlefish with fresh pasta ravioli stuffed with fennel). Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Mon.

Acontraluz
Milanesat 19, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/203-0658
EUR30 to EUR48
Upper Barcelona
Contemporary

This stylish covered terrace in the leafy upper-Barcelona neighborhood of Tres Torres has a varied menu ranging from game in season, such as rable de liebre (stewed hare) with chutney, to pochas con almejas (beans with clams). All dishes are prepared with care and flair, and the lunch menu is a bargain. AE, DC, MC, V.

Agut
Gignàs 16, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/315-1709
Under EUR18
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

This homey restaurant in the lower reaches of the Gothic Quarter is decorated with wood panelling and 1950s canvases. Agut was founded in 1924, and its popularity has never waned - not least because the hearty Catalan fare offers fantastic value. In season (September-May), try the pato silvestre agridulce (sweet-and-sour wild duck). There's a good selection of wine, but no coffee or liqueurs. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and July. No dinner Sun.

Antiga Casa Solé
Sant Carles 4, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/221-5012
EUR30 to EUR48
Bearceloneta
Seafood

Just two blocks to the sea side of the charming Plaça de Sant Miquel, Barceloneta's prettiest square, this restaurant occupies a characteristic waterfront house and serves fresh, well-prepared, and piping hot seafood of all kinds. Whether it's lenguado a la plancha (grilled sole) or the exquisite arroç negre amb sepia en su tinta (black rice with squid in its ink), everything here comes loaded with taste. In winter try to get close to the open kitchen for the aromas, sights, sounds, and heat. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Aug. 15-31. No dinner Sun.

Beltxenea
Mallorca 275, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/215-3024
Over EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Spanish

Long one of Barcelona's top restaurants, Beltxenea retains an intimate atmosphere in its elegant dining rooms. Carved wood columns in the hall, grand oak fireplaces, elegant Isabelline high-backed chairs, and red fringe-draped chandeliers all recall the past glories of this lovely town house. In summer you can dine outdoors in the formal garden. Chef Miguel Ezcurra's Basque cuisine is exquisite; a specialty is merluza con kokotxas y almejas (hake simmered in stock with clams and barbels). The house wines are excellent. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.

Botafumeiro
Gran de Gràcia 81, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/218-4230
Over EUR48
Gràcia
Spanish

Barcelona's finest Galician restaurant is on Gràcia's main thoroughfare. The mood is maritime, with white tablecloths and pale varnished-wood paneling, and the fleet of waiters will impress you with their soldierly white outfits and lightning-fast service. The main attraction is the mariscos Botafumeiro, a succession of myriad plates of shellfish. Costs can mount quickly. Try an assortment of media racion (half-ration) selections at the bar, where pulpo a feira (squid on potato), jamón bellota de Guijuelo (acorn-fed ham from a town near Salamanca), and pan con tomate (toasted bread with olive oil and tomato) make peerless late-night snacks. People-watching is tops, and the waiters are stand-up comics. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Ca l'Estevet
Valdoncella 46, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/302-4186
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

No wonder this place is a favorite with artists, students, journalists, and professors - it's just across the street from Barcelona's journalism school; around the block from Barcelona's premier liberal newspaper, La Vanguardia; and around the corner from the MACBA (contemporary art museum). Estevet and family are charming, and the carefully elaborated Catalan cuisine deserves to be taken very seriously, especially at these prices. The restaurant is unpretentious and lively, and offers top value. Try the asparagus cooked over coals, the chopitos gaditanos (deep-fried baby octopus), or the magret de pato (duck breast). The house wine is inexpensive, light, and perfectly acceptable. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Café de l'Acadèmia
Lledó 1, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/319-8253
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

With wicker chairs, stone walls, and background classical music, this place is sophisticated-rustic, and the excellent Catalan cuisine makes it more than a mere café. It's frequented by politicians from the nearby Generalitat. Be sure to reserve at lunchtime. AE, DC, MC, V.

Can Gaig
Passeig de Maragall 402, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/429-1017
Fax: 93/429-7002
EUR30 to EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Spanish

This traditional Barcelona restaurant is known for its market-fresh ingredients and cooking that is experimental yet based on Catalan home cooking. The menu balances seafood and game. Try the perdiz asada con jamón ibérico (roast partridge with Iberian bacon). No dinner is served on holidays. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Holy Week, and Aug.

Can Isidre
Les Flors 12, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/441-1139
EUR30 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

This small restaurant has a longtime following among Barcelona's artistic elite. Pictures and engravings, some original, by Dalí and other prominent artists line the walls. The traditional Catalan cooking draws on fresh produce from the nearby Boqueria and has a slight French accent. The homemade foie gras is superb. Come and go by cab at night; the area between Can Isidre and the Rambla is unsafe. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun., Holy Week, and mid-July-mid-Aug.

Can Majó
Almirall Aixada 23, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/221-5455
Over EUR30
Bearceloneta
Seafood

Set on the beach, Can Majó is one of Barcelona's premier seafood restaurants. House specialties are caldero de bogavante (a cross between paella and lobster bouillabaisse) and suquet (fish stewed in its own juices), but whatever you choose will be excellent. In summer, the terrace overlooking the Mediterranean is the closest you can now come to the Barceloneta chiringuitos (shanty restaurants) that used to line the beach here. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon.

Can Manel la Puda
Passeig Joan de Borbó 60, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/221-5013
Under EUR30
Bearceloneta
Spanish

First choice for a paella in the sun, year-round, is Can Manel, near the end of the main road out to the Barceloneta beach. Any time before 4 o'clock will do; the restaurant then reopens at 7. Arroz a la banda (rice with peeled shellfish) and paella marinera (with seafood) or fideuà (with noodles instead of rice) are all delicious. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Can Ramonet
Carrer Maquinista 17, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/319-3064
EUR18 to EUR48
Bearceloneta
Seafood

The oldest tavern in the port, founded in 1763, this singular flower-festooned house next to the Barceloneta market has barrel-top tables for tapas and regular tables for meals. Paella and seafood are strong suits; try the arroz negro - paella colored and flavored by cuttlefish ink. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Casa Calvet
Casp 48, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/412-4012
EUR30 to EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Mediterranean

This is the only Gaudí building in the city in which you can dine. The spectacular dining room contains signature Gaudí ornamentation - looping door handles, polychrome stained glass, acid-engravings, and intricately carved wood in floral motifs. The cuisine is light and Mediterranean with more contemporary than traditional fare. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., holidays, and Aug. 15-31.

Casa Leopoldo
Sant Rafael 24, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/441-3014
EUR30 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

Hidden away in the dark Raval (literally, "slum") on the west (right) side of the Rambla, Casa Leopoldo serves some of the finest seafood and Catalan fare in Barcelona. Since it's hard to find, the restaurant will have you picked up at any hotel within city limits and driven to the door. Owner Rosa Gil speaks half a dozen languages (including English)and takes good care of foreign guests. Try the revuelto de ajos tiernos y gambas (eggs scrambled with young garlic and shrimp) or the famous Catalan dish cap-i-pota, a stew of morsels of head and hoof of pork. The wine list offers an ample selection ranging from Albariños to Riojas, Costers de Segre, and Penedès. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Drolma
Passeig de Gràcia 70, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/496-7710
Over EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Contemporary

Named (in Sanskrit) for Buddha's female side, this intimate perch in the elegant Hotel Majestic catapulted to the top of Barcelona's gastronomical charts the minute it opened. Order the menú de degustaciò (tasting menu) and you might get pheasant canelloni in foie gras sauce smothered in fresh black truffles, or giant prawn tails in trompettes de la mort (black wild mushrooms) with sôt-l'y-laisse (free-range chicken nuggets). Fermin's foie gras a la ceniza con ceps (foie gras over wood coals with wild mushrooms) epitomizes the blend of tradition and inspiration that makes this restaurant famous. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

El Asador de Aranda
Av. del Tibidabo 31, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/417-0115
EUR30 to EUR48
Upper Barcelona
Spanish

Designed by Art Nouveau architect Rubió i Bellver, this immense palace 500 m (1,600 ft) above the Avenida Tibidabo metro station is a hike but worth seeking out if you're in upper Barcelona. The acclaimed kitchen specializes in cordero lechal (roast lamb); try pimientos de piquillo (hot, spicy peppers) on the side. The ample dining room has a terra-cotta floor and Art Nouveau ornamentation such as intricately carved wood trimmings to stained-glass partitions, etched glass, and Moorish archways. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Holy Week and Sun. in Aug. No dinner Sun.

El Cafetí
Hospital 99 (at the end of Passatge Bernardí Martorell, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/329-2419
EUR30 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
French

This romantic and graceful little hideaway at the end of the passageway in from Carrer Hospital is a candlelit and intimate bistro with an interesting menu encompassing a wide range of ingredients from foie gras to cod to game in season. Try the ensalada tibia de queso de cabra (warm goat cheese salad) or the solomillo de corzo al foie (roebuck filet mignon with foie gras). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

El Convent
Jerusalem 3, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/317-1052
Under EUR18
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

Hidden away behind the Boqueria market, El Convent offers good value in a traditional setting. The Catalan home cooking, featuring such favorites as faves a la catalana (broad beans stewed with blood sausage), comes straight from the Boqueria. The intimate balconies and dining rooms have marble-top tables that can accommodate groups of two or 20. A bargain menú del día makes lunch the best time to come. AE, DC, MC, V.

El Foro
Princesa 53, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/310-1020
EUR18 to EUR30
Ciutat Vella
American/Casual

This blazing hotspot near the Born is always full to the rafters with ecstatic-looking people. Painting and photographic exhibits line the walls, while meat cooked over coals, pizzas, and salads dominate the menu at this simple but lively restaurant and café. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

El Mató de Pedralbes
Obispo Català, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/204-7962
EUR18 to EUR30
Upper Barcelona
Spanish

Named for the mató (cottage cheese) traditionally prepared by the Clarist nuns across the street in the Monestir de Pedralbes, this restaurant makes a fine stop after touring the monastery, which closes at 2 PM, and has one of the most Catalan and best-value menus in town. Look for sopa de ceba gratinée (onion soup), trinxat (chopped cabbage with bacon bits), or truite de patata i ceba (potato and onion omelet). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

El Pebre Blau
Bany Vells 21, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/319-1308
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Mediterranean

This handsome space on the site of the early baths (banys vells), surrounded by centuries-old wooden doors and shutters, offers a selection of dishes from all over the Mediterranean. Every detail is attended to here with exquisite taste and judgment. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed midday.

El Racò d'en Freixa
Sant Elíes 22, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/209-7559
EUR30 to EUR48
Gràcia
Spanish

Chef Ramó Freixa, one of Barcelona's new culinary lights, is taking founding father José María's work to another level. His clever reinterpretations of traditional recipes, all made with high-quality ingredients, epitomize cuina d'autor (designer cuisine). One specialty is peus de porc en escabetx de guatlle (pig's feet with quail in a garlic-and-parsley gratin). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Holy Week, and Aug. No dinner Sun.

El Racó de Can Fabes
Sant Joan 6, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/867-2851
Over EUR48
Outskirts
Mediterranean

Widely lauded as one of the three best restaurants in Spain, this is a must for anyone interested in fine dining. Every detail, from the six kinds of freshly baked bread to the Catalan-French cheese selection rolled out near the end to the selection of Havana cigars, is attended to perfectly. The tasting menu is the way to go. Catch a train at the RENFE station on Passeig de Gràcia or from Sants (the last train back is at 9:30, so this is a lunchtime-only transport solution). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Feb. 1-15, and June 21-July 4. No dinner Sun.

El Tragaluz
Passatge de la Concepció 5, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/487-0196
EUR30 to EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Mediterranean

Tragaluz means skylight - literally, "light-swallower." The restaurant has a glass roof that opens to the stars and slides back in good weather. The chairs, lamps, and fittings, designed by Javier Mariscal (creator of 1992 Olympic mascot Cobi), all reflect Barcelona's passion for playful shapes and concepts. Perched on the edge of the balcony, you will feel cozily ensconced in what seems like a postmodern treehouse. The Mediterranean cuisine is light and innovative. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan. 5. No lunch Mon.

Folquer
Torrent de l'Olla 3, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/217-4395
EUR18 to EUR48
Gràcia
Spanish

This little hideaway in the bottom of Gràcia is a good place to wind up a tour of this village-within-a-city. Offering one of the best-value tasting menus in Barcelona, this is a mini-gourmet restaurant that creatively prepares traditional Catalan specialties using first-rate ingredients. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. 15-31. No lunch Sat.

Gades
Carrer L'Esparteria 10, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/310-4455
EUR18 to EUR30
Ciutat Vella
Swiss

For fondues of all descriptions, this medieval space converted to a modern restaurant near Passeig del Born is a good choice. Always filled with young couples and groups of savvy-looking international and Barcelona diners, the restaurant has ancient stone-and-brick walls and vaulted ceilings that are an ideal environment for good food, fine wines, and conversations lasting into the wee hours. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Gorría
Diputació 421, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/245-1164
Over EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Spanish

Fermin Gorría's tried-and-true Basque formulae keep this Navarra (north-central Spain) outpost in Barcelona flourishing. Simple dishes such as alubias estofadas (kidney beans stewed with chorizo and blood sausage) are prepared to perfection, as are roast suckling pig from Estella in southern Navarra and lamb from the Pyrenees. The decor features ancient wooden beams and stacks of wine barrels. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Jaume de Provença
Provença 88, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/430-0029
EUR30 to EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Contemporary

Locals come here because they've heard about the chef, Jaume Bargués, and can't wait to try his haute-cuisine repertoire. Winners include lenguado relleno de setas (sole stuffed with mushrooms) and the lubina (sea bass) soufflé. Located in the Hospital Clinic part of the Eixample, the restaurant is done up in in modern black and bottle green. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Aug., Holy Week, and Dec. 25-26. No dinner Sun.

Jean-Luc Figueras
Carrer Santa Teresa 10, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/415-2877
Over EUR48
Gràcia
Contemporary

Charmingly installed in the Gràcia town house that was once Cristóbal Balenciaga's studio, this exceptional place makes everyone's short list of Barcelona's best restaurants. The berry-pink walls, polished dark-wood floors, and brass sconces make a rich and soothing setting for unforgettable Catalan cuisine with a French accent. The luscious menú de degustaciò is, for value and variety, the best choice. Look for innovative dishes such as the fried prawn with ginger pasta and mustard and mango sauce. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

L'Olivé
Muntaner 171, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/430-9027
EUR18 to EUR48
The Moderniste Eixample
Spanish

Specializing in Catalan home cooking, this busy and attractive Eixample restaurant is always filled to the brim with clued-in diners having a great time. You soon see why: excellent food, hearty fare, smart service, and some of the best pa amb tomaquet (toasted bread with olive oil and squeezed tomato) in town. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

L'Ou Comballa
Bany Vells 20, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/310-5378
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Mediterranean

With its candelit romantic nooks and crannies, artisanal recipes researched by culinary historian Teresa Ferri, and excellent value, this little hideaway 50 ft from the lateral facade of the Santa Maria del Mar basilica is a gem. Dishes here range from Catalan to Turkish to Greek, but the highlights are the Moroccan and medieval Sephardic recipes. Be sure to try the Sephardic hen or the amanidas mediterraneas (Mediterranean salads). Choosing between L'Ou Comballa and its sister restaurant across the street is a tough but pleasant dilemma. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed midday.

La Bona Cuina
Pietat 12, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/268-2394
EUR30 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Seafood

When the Madolell family converted their antiques business into a restaurant in the late 1960s, it soon gained respect for its neo-Baroque elegance, intimacy, and nouvelle Catalan cuisine. Fresh fish is the house specialty; try the bacalao à la Cuineta (cod with spinach, raisins, pine nuts, and white sauce). The location, overlooking the apse of the cathedral, is memorable. AE, DC, MC, V.

La Flauta Mágica
Bany Vells 18, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/268-4694
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Vegetarian

Specializing in dishes using only organically grown produce, this little restaurant near Santa Maria del Mar offers a unique range of fare, much of it vegetarian. The restaurant opens only in the evening from 9 to midnight. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

La Habana Vieja
Bany Vells 2, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/268-2504
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Cuban

If you've got an itch for a taste of old Havana - ropa vieja (shredded beef) or moros y cristianos (black beans and rice) with mojitos (rum, mint, and sugar) or a round of plátanos a punetazos (punched plantains) - this is the place to come in Barcelona. The upstairs tables overlooking the bar are cozy little crow's nests, and the neighborhood is filled with quirky dives and saloons for carousing before and after dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

La Taxidermista
Plaça Reial 8, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/412-4536
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Contemporary

Once a natural-science museum and taxidermy shop (Dalí once purchased 200,000 ants and a stuffed rhinoceros from it), this stylish place is the only recommendable restaurant in the sunny Plaça Reial. Interior decorator Beth Gali skillfully designed the interior around original beams and steel columns. Delicacies such as bonito con escalivada y queso de cabra (white tuna with braised aubergines and peppers and goat cheese) emerge from a kitchen run by Antoni Clapès, trained by Juan Marí Arzak, the famed chef based at his eponymously named restaurant in San Sebastian (San Sebastian in Chapter 5). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

La Tramoia
Rambla de Catalunya 15, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/412-3634
Under EUR18
The Moderniste Eixample
Spanish

This rollicking restaurant at the corner of Rambla de Catalunya and Gran Via serves tasty food at low prices in a lively atmosphere. Try the onion soup, the gambas al ajillo (shrimp cooked in garlic and olive oil), and the allioli. Tramoia is Catalan for "backstage," and, aptly enough, here and you can see the chef behind glass. AE, DC, MC, V.

Los Caracoles
Escudellers 14, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/302-3185
EUR30 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

Just below the Plaça Reial, a wall of roasting chickens announces one of Barcelona's perennial favorites (especially with travelers). The semiprivate dining room with gigantic antique sherry caskets, a wrought-iron candlelabra, and garlands of hanging garlic is the most evocative corner. Tunas (student vocalists in Renaissance costumes) are likely to serenade you at your table, while the open kitchen cranks out an eclectic but somewhat listless range of Castilian roasts, Mediterranean fish dishes, and, of course, caracoles (snails). AE, DC, MC, V.

Mey Hofmann
Argenteria 74-78, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/319-5889
Over EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Mediterranean

This thickly vegetated dining room just up Argenteria from Santa Maria del Mar is a cooking academy and first-rate restaurant specializing in Mediterranean cuisine classified as de creación, meaning that they're always experimenting with new tastes and combinations. The young waiters and waitresses are chefs-in-training and usually encyclopedic about ingredients and preparations, from aperitif wines to cheeses and desserts. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Mezzanine
Provença 236, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/454-8798
EUR18 to EUR30
The Moderniste Eixample
Vegetarian

An excellent vegetarian choice in mid-Eixample, this romantic restaurant features dishes such as lasagna Mezzanina and bolognesa de soja (soybean-based bolognesa sauce). It's at the corner of Provença and Aribau. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Mon Obert
Passatge d'Escudellers 5, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/301-7273
EUR18 to EUR30
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

This unusually quiet spot just off Carrer Escudellers is a combination coffee house, bookstore, art gallery, and restaurant. The culinary creations of Xavier Estrany, an interesting selection of books to buy or read in situ, and painting or photographic exhibits on the walls, all in a peaceful refuge just a few steps off the roaring Rambla, add up to a successful experiment that is still undiscovered by all but a few barcelonins. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Neichel
Carrer Bertran i Rozpide 16 bis (off Av. Pedralbes), Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/203-8408
Over EUR48
Upper Barcelona
French

Alsatian chef Jean-Louis Neichel is universally respected for such delicacies as ensalada de gambas al sésamo con puerros (shrimp in sesame-seed sauce with leeks). The modern setting, on the ground floor of a Pedralbes apartment block, is mundane compared to the cooking. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., Jan. 1-6, Holy Week, and Aug. No lunch Sat.

Ot
Torres 25, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/284-7752
EUR30 to EUR48
Gràcia
Contemporary

This restaurant's formula is unique: a set menu of one appetizer followed by two entrées, one fish and the other meat, and a selection of cheeses. This tasting menu is one of the best values in town and changes every two weeks. If you're lucky you might score a crema de alcachofas con su helado de lima y pimienta con gambas de Palamós (cream of artichokes with lime and green pepper ice cream with Palamós shrimp), a hot-cold experiment characteristic of the chef's delight in developing traditional recipes in exciting new ways. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Passadis del Pep
Pla del Palau 2, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/310-1021
Over EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Seafood

Hidden away through a tiny passageway off the Pla del Palau near the Santa Maria del Mar church, this lively bistro serves a rapid-fire succession of delicious seafood tapas and wine as soon you appear. Sometime late in the proceedings you may be asked to make a decision about your main course, usually a fish of one kind or another. You are free to stop at this point. Avoid bogavante (lobster) unless you're on an expense account. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. 15-31.

Pou Dols
Baixada de Sant Miquel 6, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/412-0579
EUR18 to EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Mediterranean

Next to the early 16th-century Palau Centelles, this cooking academy and restaurant is a refreshing minimalist break (in design, not cuisine) from Barcelona's rich aesthetic diet of Gothic and Art Nouveau exuberance. After stepping across the glassed-over remains of the pou dols (freshwater well) at the door, be prepared for delicious specialties such as the minimandonguilles amb tomaquet concassé (mini-meatballs with crushed tomato) or the llom de xai al cardomom amb favetes a la menta (lamb with cardamom and broadbeans with mint). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Reial Club Marítim
Moll d'Espanya, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/221-7143
EUR30 to EUR48
Bearceloneta
Seafood

For sunset or harbor views, excellent maritime fare, and a sense of remove from the city, try Barcelona's yacht club, El Marítim, just around the harbor through Barceloneta. Highlights are paella marinera (seafood paella), rodaballo (turbot), lubina (sea bass), and dorado (sea bream). Ask for the freshest fish they have and you won't be disappointed. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.

Rita Blue
Plaça Sant Agustí 3, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/342-4086
Under EUR18
Ciutat Vella
Mediterranean

This hotspot opens from midday (1 PM) to the wee hours (3 AM) and serves better-than-creditable Mediterranean cooking to a predominantly young clientele. Two steps from the Boqueria market across Carrer Hospital, the restaurant is market-driven and features whatever is best and freshest. Musical performances are offered on Sunday evenings. AE, DC, MC, V.

Sant Pau
Nou 10, Sant Pol de Mar, Spain
Phone: 93/760-0662
Over EUR48
Outskirts
Contemporary

Carme Ruscalleda's restaurant in Sant Pol de Mar is a scenic 40-minute train ride along the beach from Plaça Catalunya's RENFE station. It's one of Barcelona's best gourmet excursions. The spot has a warm glow and a clean, spare look about it. Nearly every dish is a winner, whether it's an appetizer like salmonetes con aceitunas negras (red mullet with black olives) or a main course like lubina (sea wolf) on a bed of baby leeks and chard in a sauce of sweet Catalan wine, or butifarra de jabalq con piña y melocotón (wild boar sausage with stewed pineapple and peach). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Mar. 8-24, and Nov. 1-18. No dinner Sun.

Satoru Miyano
Ganduxer 18, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/414-3104
EUR30 to EUR48
Upper Barcelona
Japanese

Japan discovered Barcelona, especially Gaudí, a long time ago, but Barcelona is just now discovering Japanese cuisine. One of the two or three best sushi spots in town, this clean-lined restaurant in upper Barcelona combines Eastern and Western culinary traditions with superb judgment and taste. The Mediterreanan and the Pacific meet deliciously here, with a varied selection of dishes from Spain, France, and Japan. AE, DC, MC, V.

Set Portes
Passeig Isabel II 14, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/319-3033
Over EUR48
Ciutat Vella
Spanish

These "Seven Doors" near the waterfront hide a high-ceilinged dining room, black-and-white marble floor, and mirrors aplenty. Going strong since 1836, this festive and elegant restaurant serves continuously from 1 PM to 1 AM, seven days a week. The cooking is Catalan, and the portions are enormous. Specialties are paella de peix (with fish) and sarsuela Set Portes (seafood casserole). AE, DC, MC, V.

Talaia Mar
Marina 16, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/221-9090
Over EUR30
Olympic Port
Seafood

Generally considered to be the finest restaurant in the Olympic Port, this bright spot has wonderful Mediterranean views and fresh seafood. The tasting menu is a bargain, a good way to sample the chef's best work for little more than a regular meal would cost. AE, MC, V.

Tinglado Moncho's
Moll de Gregal 5-6, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/221-8383
EUR30 to EUR48
Olympic Port
Seafood

This relaxed harborside seafood restaurant can be counted on for good, if not brilliant, interpretations of standard fish recipes. It serves besugo (sea bream), dorada (gilt-head bream), and lenguado (sole) as well as northern favorites such as almejas con judias (white beans and clams) and meat dishes such as judias pintas de Tolosa (red beans from Tolosa stewed in blood sausage and chorizo). Open from noon until two in the morning, Moncho's is the best of the many similar spots lining the Olympic Port. AE, MC, V.

Tram-Tram
Major de Sarrià 121, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/204-8518
Over EUR30
Upper Barcelona
Contemporary

At the end of the old tram line just uphill from the village of Sarrià stands one of Barcelona's finest and most original restaurants. Try the menú de degustaciò (tasting menu) and you might be lucky enough to get marinated tuna salad, cod medallions, and venison filet mignons, among other tasty creations. The restaurant is in a traditional Sarrià house with a garden out back. Reservations are a good idea, but the staff can almost always invent a table. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Dec. 24-Jan. 6. No lunch Sat.

Via Veneto
Ganduxer 10, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/200-7244
Over EUR48
Upper Barcelona
Contemporary

Delightful by any standard, this Belle Epoque restaurant may look excessively senior and serious, but it's still very much worth trying for some of the most inventive and carefully prepared international fare south of the Tour d'Argent. Dress up a little or you'll feel out of place. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. 1-20. No lunch Sat.

Vivanda
Major de Sarrià 134, Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93/203-1918
EUR18 to EUR48
Upper Barcelona
Spanish

Just above the Plaça de Sarrià, this leafy garden is at its best between May and mid-October, when outside dining, whether lunch or dinner, is a delight. The menu features Catalan specialties such as espinacas a la catalana (spinach with raisins, pine nuts, and garlic). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.