Chef Chrisanthos Karalomengos enjoyed such a stellar reputation with the now-closed Vitrina that his latest creation was an instant success. His "fusion" cuisine combines Japanese with Italian cuisine, French with Thai. Though in an unglamorous neighborhood, the restaurant conveys an authoritarian sense of style. Two large partitions suspended from the ceiling divide the dining room (hence the name, "Left-Right"). A glass runway affords a peek at the cellar beneath, housing one of the city's most extensive wine collections, and diners exit through an art gallery. Popular dishes are the pheasant sausage with parsnips in Madeira sauce; a tower of haloumi (Cypriot cheese) and feta croquettes in a melon-mirin-chili sauce; and smoked quail in a nest of wild black mushrooms with whiskey-lime vinaigrette. Dessert includes an airy mille-feuille of mascarpone and Ricard-lemon sauce or champagne mousse with strawberries and green peppers. In summer, diners feast in the courtyard. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Athinaikon
Themistokleous 2 , Omonia, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/383-8485
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

This renowned establishment moved here after almost 60 years near the law courts, and it is still a favorite of attorneys and local office workers. The decor is no-nonsense at this ouzeri (pub-like eatery), with marble tables, dark wood, and framed memorabilia. Abide by the classic specialties: grilled octopus, shrimp croquettes, giant beans in a decadent tomato sauce, swordfish souvlaki with bay leaves and a light mustard sauce, and ameletita (sautéed lamb testicles). A favorite dish is patsanga (pastourmas, or spicy cured meat, wrapped in phyllo with cheese and tomato). All go well with the light barrel red. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and Aug.

Azul
Haritos 43 , Kolonaki, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/725-3817
EUR29 to EUR47
Athens
Mediterranean

In this jewel of a restaurant, the room may be cramped but the food is heavenly. Start with mushrooms stuffed with nuts and anthotiro (soft, mild white cheese made from goat and sheep milk), or salmon and trout wrapped in pastry with champagne sauce. The spaghetti à la nona (godmother) with chamomile, Gorgonzola, and bacon is an unparalleled combination. Other memorable main dishes are beef fillet with raisins and cedar needles, and chicken prepared with lemon leaves. In summer, Azul sets up tables outside in the pedestrian walkway, near several popular bars. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed last 2 wks. in Aug. and Sun. in winter. No lunch.

Boschetto
Alsos Evangelismos, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/721-0893 or 01/722-7324
EUR29 to EUR47
Athens
Italian

Set in Evangelismos park, Boschetto pampers diners with a soothing view, an expert maître d', and creative Italian nouvelle cuisine: you may even forget you're in the center of Athens. The specialty here is fresh pasta, such as shrimp cannelloni, green gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce, or ravioli with duck livers and truffle zabaglione. Favorite entrées include sea bass with a potato crust, succulent rooster in Riesling, sweetbreads with al dente artichokes, and grilled wild buffalo steak with a sauce of coffee, figs, and mavrodaphne wine. End your meal with the crema cotta, a baked vanilla custard with caramelized sauce, followed by the finest espresso in Athens (cigars available). The tables tend to be close together; reserve near the window or in the courtyard during summer. Reservations essential. AE, V. Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Oct.-Aug.

Edodi
Veikou 80 , Koukakki, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/921-3013
EUR29 to EUR47
Athens
Contemporary

For years Bajazzo restaurant reigned as the best restaurant in Athens, and when legendary chef Klaus Feuerbach died in 1999, the city mourned, for it was he who introduced Athenians to haute cuisine. Now, two of his closest associates (the maître d' and the sous-chef for 15 years) have opened a tiny dining room, with fewer than 10 tables, in a neoclassical house that evokes the gastronomic grandeur that was Bajazzo (with the bonus of lower prices). Ingredients are still brought theatrically to the table, and some dishes remain true to the original Feuerbach creations. The tart with feta, tomato, eggplant, and prosciutto and the swordfish in a crust of potatoes in mustard sauce are as good as ever. Other noteworthy dishes include lobster with spinach and spicy Parmesan sauce, Chinese noodles with smoked fish in an aromatic saffron-mastic sauce, and leg of lamb stuffed with herbs and raki (similar to ouzo) sauce. Marinated fruit dominates the dessert list: plums stewed in wine and cinnamon, mangos steeped in rum and served with caramel ice cream. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Everest
Syntagma Sq. , between Ermou and Karageorgi Servias, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/331-2100
Under EUR16
Athens
Fast Food

Night owls looking for a snack will probably find something to their liking at Everest, with a wide menu, including various pites with meat, spinach, and cheese fillings; pastries; and tost, grilled sandwiches you stuff with as many ingredients as you can handle. Order first, and then pay, bringing your receipt to pick up the food. There are two other locations: Tsakalof 14, Kolonaki, PHONE: 01/361-3477 and Omonia Sq. 18, PHONE: 01/324-2329.

Flocafe Espresso Bar
28 Oktovriou/Patission 39, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/522-6818
Under EUR16
Athens
Fast Food

The Flocafe Espresso Bar chain is upscale though still self-service. There are baguette and croissant sandwiches for the health-conscious, salads, sinful pastries, and a variety of coffees; branches are scattered around the city, including one across the street from the National Archaeological Museum and another off Syntagma (Stadiou 5, PHONE: 01/324-3028).

I Palia Taverna tou Psarra
Erechtheos 16 , at Erotokritou 12, Plaka, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/321-8733
Under EUR29
Athens
Greek

Founded in 1898, this Plaka (Acropolis-area) favorite serves satisfying food and has an ideal setting on a mulberry-shaded staircase. The owners claim to have served such luminaries as Brigitte Bardot and Laurence Olivier, but it's the number of Greeks who continue to come here that testifies to Psarra's appeal. The numerous appetizers range from seafood such as oil-oregano octopus or marinated gavros to heartier inland fare. Entrées include magirefta, such as rooster in wine and arnaki pilino (lamb baked in clay pots), and grilled meats such as pepper fillet and pork chops with ouzo. If you're hankering after fish, this is probably the best place in Plaka to get the catch of the day, as well as grilled swordfish, salmon, and shrimp. For those who just can't choose, there's always the ouzo katastasi (or, "ouzo situation"), a plate of tidbits to tide you over until you make up your mind. AE, MC, V.

Ideal
Panepistimiou 46 , Omonia, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/330-3000
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

The original Ideal burned down after almost 70 years, and its art deco protégé is in bright contrast, with comfy booths and tasteful decor. The oldest restaurant in the city center, it has a following for its large gamut of traditional Greek dishes cooked with unremitting reliability and its interesting daily specials, depending on what's good at the market. Best bets on the regular menu are the egg-lemon soup, leek croquettes, pork with celery, grilled Aivaliotika minced beef with sweet peppers and mustard sauce (from Anatolia), and the Smyrnaika tsoutsoukakia (spicy meat patties made with ouzo and cumin). Sweet wines, such as mavrodaphne, are available by the glass, making a smooth partner for the strawberry coupe. The service is fast but fastidious. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Il Tinello
Knossou 54 , Alimos, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/982-8462
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Italian

Walking into this Italian trattoria is like dropping in on a dinner party: a boisterous atmosphere, convivial guests, and a host who tells jokes as he strolls from table to table, taking orders, humming along to the canzoni (songs), and occasionally asking a guest to dance. Scrumptious dishes include roasted goat cheese with anchovy sauce and parsley; intense risotto with garlic, Parmesan, and porcini mushrooms; and plate-brimming servings of rustic pastas such as ravioli with chamomile or fettuccine with almonds and chicken. Top it all off with homemade tiramisu. Reservations essential. No credit cards. Closed Sun.-Mon. and mid-July-Aug. No lunch.

Kafenio
Loukianou 26 , Kolonaki, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/722-9056
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

A Kolonaki institution, this ouzeri (pub-like eatery) reminiscent of a French bistro is slightly fancier than the norm, with cloth napkins, candles on the tables, and a handsome dark wood interior. The menu is enormous, with many unusual creations. The tender marinated octopus, fried eggplant, stuffed squash in egg-lemon sauce, and the onion pie with fragrant dill are good choices. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug.

Kaldera
Leoforos Poseidonos 54 , Palio Faliro, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/982-9647 or 01/983-9636
EUR16 to EUR47
Athens
Greek

Dedicated to specialties not found at most tavernas, this restaurant brings back fond memories to those who love the Greek islands. Amid the blue-and-white Cycladic decor, diners can indulge in such delights as soupies krasates from Smyrna - cuttlefish with pine nuts and raisins; a salad of sun-dried mackerel from Chios; and steaming hot mussels in mustard sauce from Skopelos. Non-seafood appetizers include skordalia (but here the garlic-mashed potatoes are made with walnuts), squash croquettes sparked with mint from Ermioni, and saganaki (fried cheese pastries), in this case with pastourmas (spicy, cured meat) and phyllo. If you can manage an entrée, try the makaronada thalassina (al dente pasta with crab, shrimp, and mussels) or any of the fresh catch, such as sargus, sole, sea bream, or the house specialty, monkfish. Reservations essential weekends. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed a few days around Christmas, New Year's, and Greek Easter.

Karavitis
Arktinou 35 at Pausaniou 4, Pangrati, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/721-5155
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

In this neighborhood favorite near the Panathenaic Stadium, the winter dining room is insulated with huge wine casks, and in summer there is garden seating in a courtyard across the street (get there early so you don't end up at the noisy sidewalk tables). The classic Greek cuisine is well prepared, including pungent tzatziki (cucumber yogurt sauce), excellent with lightly fried zucchini slices; bekri meze (lamb chunks in zesty red sauce); lamb ribs (when in season); and stamnaki (beef baked in a clay pot). No credit cards. Closed a few days around Aug. 15. No lunch.

Kiku
Dimokritou 12 , Kolonaki, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/364-7033
Over EUR29
Athens
Japanese

For those in need of a sushi fix, this has become an Athenian favorite despite hefty prices. Besides flawless sushi and sashimi, which often utilize local catch like bonito, dorado, sea bass, and cuttlefish, the restaurant offers classics like perfectly fried vegetable and seafood tempura, dainty dumplings, yaki soba (shrimp with noodles), beef sukiyaki, and chicken teriyaki. For Japanese clients there is a separate menu written in Japanese that includes gems such as melt-in-your-mouth eggplant with miso flavored with sake and poppy seeds, pork fried in bread crumbs, and a memorable oden moriawase (fish-cake soup); ask the server for recommendations. Reservations essential in winter. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Kollias
Stratigou Plastira 3 , near junction of Dramas and Kalokairinou, Tabouria, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/462-9620 or 01/461-9150
EUR16 to EUR47
Athens
Seafood

This restaurant's terrace, with pots of geranium and jasmine, evokes the Athens of the '60s. Friendly owner Tassos Kollias creates his own dishes that range from the humble to the aristocratic, from fried whole squid in its ink or cuttlefish stew with broccoli and cream to sea urchin salad and lobster with lemon, balsamic vinegar, and a shot of honey. He is also known for bringing in the best quality catch, and his prices are usually 25% lower than most fish tavernas. Order the grilled scorpion fish flavored with mastic; the flambéed mackerel; or mussels stuffed with rice, grapes, and pine nuts. Besides piping-hot tomato and other vegetable croquettes, there are large mixed salads. A fitting end to such a meal: fresh bougatsa (custard in phyllo). Ask for directions when you call - even locals get lost trying to find this obscure street in a working-class quarter of Piraeus. Reservations essential weekends. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. nights and Aug. No lunch Mon.-Sat.

Kostoyiannis
Zaimi 37 , Pedion Areos, behind the Archaeological Museum, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/821-2496 or 01/822-0624
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

If you're looking for authenticity, this is the place to go, liveliest late at night after the theatergoers arrive. One of the oldest and most popular tavernas in the area, it has an impressively wide range of Greek dishes - including shrimp salads, stuffed mussels, rabbit stifado (a stew of meat, white wine, garlic, cinnamon, and spices), and sautéed sweetbreads. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and last wk of July through 3rd wk of Aug. No lunch.

Kouzina Cine-Psirri
Sarri 40 , Psirri, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/321-5534 or 01/321-2476
EUR16 to EUR47
Athens
Mediterranean

Once a dilapidated factory, this chic dining space features lots of stone, golden wood, cement touches, and a partial glass floor revealing the wine cellar. The best place to be is the roof terrace with its view of the illuminated Acropolis and the nearby observatory. The talented chef comes up with creative, even, at times, provocative, Greek cuisine. Try the appetizer of crab with smoked eggplant purée and fennel root, or fish soup accompanied by grilled skate, then move on to such entrées as boar with watermelon chutney or grilled rooster breast with kumquats. There isn't a large selection of noted wines, but the restaurant bottles many vintages from local producers; thus, prices are quite reasonable. After dinner, catch a summer movie at the outdoor Cine Psirri or a winter play at Apothiki theater next door. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed Mon.

Loxandra
Ermou 2 , Syntagma Sq., Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/331-2212
Under EUR16
Athens
Fast Food

This souvlaki chain has branches throughout the city, including the Loxandra near the National Archaeological Museum (28 Oktovriou/Patission 43, PHONE: 01/522-4296). Especially good are the chicken Loxandra, a roasted breast served in a homemade pita, and the pita Loxandra with spicy seftalies (a tasty mix of lamb liver bits and onions wrapped in suet).

Margaro
Hatzikyriakou 126 , Piraeus, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/451-4226
Under EUR16
Athens
Seafood

If you are in Piraeus and want to forego the tourists and undeservedly expensive fish places on Mikrolimano, consider this popular, no-nonsense fish taverna in the nearby neighborhood of Hatzyikyriakeio. Opened in the 1930s by a Mykonos islander hoping to improve her luck in Athens, it is still run by her two grandsons. There is no menu, since the establishment serves just five items, along with excellent barrel wine: fried crayfish, fried red mullet, fried pandora, fried marida (a small white fish), and huge Greek salads - which you may be asked to prepare yourself when the staff is overwhelmed by a hungry rush-hour crowd. Tables on the terrace offer a view of the busy port. Try to arrive before 8:30 PM. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed 15 days at Greek Easter. No Sun. dinner.

Monopolio Athinon
Ippothontidon 10 , at Keiriadon, Kato Petralona, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/345-9172
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

Formerly a state-run monopoly that sold such goods as matches and petroleum, this has the feeling of a '50s oinomageirio, or "eating house." The emphasis is on regional Greek cuisine, with a few dishes from Asia Minor, Sicily, and Morocco. It is run by an actor and his mother, who turns out some of the best pites (pies) in the city. Try the traditional Cypriot eliota, its crisp, sesame-sprinkled pastry a deft contrast to the olive-onion filling, or the Cretan souhli, stuffed with meat, tomato, and kefalograviera cheese. Skip the osso buco and opt for the tsoutsoukakia Smyrnaikia, spicy patties with a dash of cumin and filled with olives, or "Aggeliki's tigania," bites of pork with mustard and throubi (a Sifnos herb resembling oregano). No credit cards. Closed Mon. and July-Aug.

Neon
Omonia Sq. , and Dorou, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/522-3201
Under EUR16
Athens
Fast Food

A remodeled cafeteria in a landmark 1920s building that's open until at least 2 AM, Neon was so popular that other branches immediately appeared at Tsakalof 6, Kolonaki; Mitropoleos 3, Syntagma Square; and G. Lambrakis 156, Zea Marina. The vast selection ranges from salad-bar fare, pasta, and meat dishes to sandwiches, ice cream, and other desserts, and prices are moderate.

O Platanos
Diogenous 4 , Plaka, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/322-0666
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

Set on a picturesque corner, this is one of the oldest tavernas in Plaka, a welcome sight among the many overpriced tourist traps in the area. Tourism hasn't seemed to affect this place at all, other than the now-multilingual menus rife with amusing spelling. The waiters are fast but far from ingratiating, and the place is packed with Greeks. The shady courtyard is fine for outdoor dining. Don't miss the oven-baked potatoes, roasted lamb, fresh green beans in savory olive oil, and the exceptionally cheap but delicious barrel retsina. To get here, from Adrianou heading toward Ermou, turn left on Mnissikleous and right on Diogenous, or enter Diogenous from the Tower of the Winds. No credit cards. Closed Sun.

Royal Thai
Zirini 12 , Kifissia, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/623-2322 or 01/623-2323
EUR29 to EUR47
Athens
Thai

Silk-clad waitresses settle you comfortably amid the Thai antiques, gilded dishes, and soothing decor of the restaurant that successfully brings the tantalizing flavors of a relatively unknown cuisine to Athens. The knowledgeable staff can explain dishes to the uninitiated, but you won't go wrong if you concentrate on appetizers, the restaurant's forte. Near flawless tidbits include the blue dumplings stuffed with aromatic minced chicken and topped with toasted garlic; yawalat pork spareribs slow-cooked in a sour plum, chili, and soy sauce; fish cooked in banana leaf and served with coriander sauce; and tom kha gai soup, a delicate chicken broth with nuances of coconut milk. If you're ordering a main dish, opt for thinly sliced beef with green curry, first deceptively mild, then deliciously hot. Reservations essential Fri.-Sat. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch except Sun. in winter.

Sigalas-Bairaktaris
Platia Monastiraki 2, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/321-3036
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

Run by the same family for more than a century, this is one of the best places to eat in Monastiraki Square. After admiring the painted wine barrels and black-and-white stills of Greek film stars, go to the window case to view the day's magirefta - beef kokkinisto (stew with red sauce), tsoutsoukakia spiked with cloves - or sample the gyro platter. Appetizers include small cheese pies with sesame seeds, tender mountain greens, and fried zucchini with a garlicky dip. AE, MC, V.

Skoufias
Troon 63 , Ano Petralona, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/341-1488
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

Bare stone, white oil paint, and rustic touches such as a mirror framed with bits of wood belie the ultramodern approach of this taverna, located in the increasingly popular neighborhood, Ano Petralona, north of the Acropolis. Exceptional entrées to try are the makaronada tis magirissas (cook's pasta), enhanced with cream, bacon, cauliflower, broccoli, pomegranate, and dried fruits; the baked honeyed pig tails served with sauerkraut; and a lively hungiar begendi, kebab balanced with mint-spiked tzatziki (cucumber yogurt sauce) and smoky eggplant purée with just a hint of vinegar (good with the Katogi Averof red from the small wine list). No credit cards. No lunch. Closed Sun. and 1 wk in Aug.

Spondi
Pirronos 5 , Varnava Sq., Pangrati, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/752-0658
EUR29 to EUR47
Athens
Contemporary

This vaulted stone-interior restaurant used to suggest a medieval wine cellar, but now after its renovation, the ambience is as cool and contemporary as the cuisine. Perfectly balanced are the artichoke terrine with duck confit, or the black ravioli with honeyed leek and shrimp. Savor such entrées as grilled John Dory with a spirited orange and mustard sauce; lamb tail so tender it falls from the bone, with couscous, raisins, and cumin; lobster pappardelle; and chicken with foie gras, truffles, and asparagus in porcini sauce. For dessert: bitter chocolate soufflé or mille-feuille with fresh figs and sauce made of Visanto sweet wine. After dinner, there is a choice of cigars to accompany your cognac, port, or whiskey. When weather permits, diners sit in the bougainvillea-draped courtyard. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Stous 7 Anemous
Astiggos 17 (from Ermou 121), Monastiraki, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/324-0386
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

A peculiar ridged ceiling, tiled wooden tables, and seven antique fans for which the restaurant is named ("anemous" means wind): the decor is beautiful but not exactly unified, a bit of postmodern pastiche in Monastiraki. Never mind - the playful food with intense flavors is what's impressive here. Appetizers not to be missed are the fried Dodoni feta wrapped in a sesame-enhanced crust and served with fleshy marinated tomatoes and walnut sauce, as well as the tortillas filled with octopus. Main dishes might include lamb ribs with a refreshing kiwi chutney spiked with mint; moist pork fillet with a dense coffee-black currant sauce; grilled tuna with tomato, thyme, and chamomile; and salmon, monkfish, and shrimp poached in lettuce leaves and topped with lemon-chive sauce. End your meal with the almond pastry (amigdaloto) and a shot of tsipouro, a fiery ouzo-like liqueur. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Aug.

Strofi
Rovertou Galli 25 , Makriyianni, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/921-4130 or 01/922-3787
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

Just a few blocks from the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, this taverna draws theatergoers for its congenial service and dramatic roof garden views of the illuminated Acropolis. Inside the old two-story house, signed glossy photos indicate the many performers who have dined here after a show at the ancient theater. Despite the many tourists, Strofi continues to attract locals who have been coming here for decades. The tzatziki, with its ground cucumber, abundant garlic, and velvety yogurt, goes well with the perfectly fried, thinly sliced zucchini, or the village bread. Another good appetizer is fava, a purée of yellow split peas. Reliable entrées include roast lamb with homemade noodles called hilopites, rabbit stifado (stew), veal with eggplant, kid prepared with oil and oregano, and rooster stewed in red wine. DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Ta Tria Tetarta
Oikonomou 25 , Exarchia, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/823-0560
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

There's something dollhouse-like about this tri-level stone-and-wood interior with nooks and crannies, decorated with eye-catching objects such as an old narghile (hookah). The mezedes served here include spicy feta sprinkled with red pepper and roasted in foil, cheese bread, skewered seftalies (a tasty mix of lamb liver bits and onions wrapped in suet), seafood pie, and spinach crepes with tomato, basil, and yogurt. Reservations essential. No credit cards. Closed mid-June-Aug. No lunch Mon.-Sat.

Tade Efi Anna
Ermou 72 , Monastiraki, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/321-3652
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

Near the end of the Ermou pedestrian zone, this relaxed yet trendy restaurant, complete with a "chill-out" room for waiting diners, serves Greek regional cuisine with a modern touch. Look for the narrow doorway - easy to miss - and proceed upstairs. Try what is perhaps the best pita Kaisarias in Athens, spicy, cured meat called pastourmas with tomato and Kasseri cheese in a crisp phyllo, or melitzanes amigdalou, thinly sliced eggplant layered with tomatoes and cheese with a thick topping of crushed almonds. The rabbit is cooked with cinnamony prunes, nicely contrasted with fresh spinach, and the chicken fillet is first wrapped around Gruyère, then baked in a crust of Aigina pistachios. V. Closed Mon. and June-Aug.

Taverna Xynos
Aggelou Geronda 4 , Plaka, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/322-1065
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

Stepping into the courtyard of this Plaka taverna is like entering a time warp: Athens in the '50s. According to loyal customers, nothing has changed much since then, including the consistently good magirefta, stove-top or oven-cooked dishes, usually made earlier. Start with the classic appetizer of stuffed grape leaves, and then move on to the taverna's strong suit - cooked dishes such as lamb yiouvetsi (meat baked in ceramic dishes with tomato sauce and barley-shaped pasta), livers with sweetbreads in vinegar and oregano, and piquant tsoutsoukakia (meat patties) laced with cinnamon. In summer, tables move outside; nightly, a guitar duo drops by to charm the crowd with ballads of yesteryear. The entrance is down the walkway next to Glikis kafenion (traditional Greek coffeehouse). No credit cards. Closed weekends and July. No lunch.

To Varoulko
Deligeorgi 14 , Piraeus, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/411-2043 or 01/411-1283
Over EUR29
Athens
Seafood

Acclaimed chef Lefteris Lazarou is constantly trying to outdo himself, with magnificent results. Rather than sticking to the menu, you are best advised to give him a general idea of what you like and let him select your dish, depending on what he found that day at the market. Customers reserve days in advance, hoping to sample such appetizers as crab salad studded with mango, grapes, and leeks; fresh mullet roe from Messolonghi laced with honey and accompanied by cinnamony cauliflower purée; and carpaccio made from petrobarbouno (a kind of rockfish). There is a mind-boggling array of other seafood dishes. For dessert, try the carrot-filled kaïdaifi (a pastry with shredded wheat). In summer, the chef moves to a seaside location. Reservations essential. AE, DC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Trata O Stelios
Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9 , off Ethnikis Antistaseos St., Kaisariani, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/729-1533
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Seafood

Hidden at the back of the lively main square in Kaisariani, a suburb 10 minutes' drive from the city center, this casual fish taverna consistently offers masterfully grilled fish. The owner works directly with fishermen, so you're guaranteed the freshest catch. The only time to avoid Stelios (as the locals know it) is Sunday lunch, when it's dauntingly packed with Athenian families after 2 PM. Even those who wrinkle their nose at fish soup will be converted by the dense yet delicate kakkavia. Other good appetizers include the homemade taramosalata (roe dip), grilled octopus, and marinated beet salad. As for the fish, just point to your preference (prices, as always, are by weight), and it will arrive soon after in the way Greeks hope for and insist upon: grilled with exactitude, coated in the thinnest layer of olive oil to seal in juices, and accompanied by lots of lemon. No credit cards. Closed 10 days at Greek Easter.

Vardis
Diligianni 66 , in Pentelikon Hotel, Kefalari, Kifissia, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/623-0650 through 01/623-0656
Over EUR47
Athens
French

This grand restaurant is worth the ride to the elegant northern suburb of Kifissia. The award-winning chef, perfectionist Jean de Grylleau, executes both classic and modern French dishes with finesse. He demands quality ingredients, transporting sweetwater crayfish from Orhomenos and rare large shrimp from Thassos island. Many of the dishes on the four seasonal menus have a Mediterranean touch, for example eschewing cream for olive oil. Starters might include pigeon cassoulet with foie gras in fig juice, octopus (boiled in milk) with hazelnut sauce, or langoustines en crôute (with a crust). Especially good are the superb crayfish linguine, caramelized lamb cutlets with morel and porcini mushrooms, and rock perch à l'étouffée. Few can say "non" to the desserts, which include an irresistible Grand Marnier and forest-berries soufflé. In summer, diners eat outside in the hotel garden. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Vassilenas
Etolikou 72 and Vitolion, Ayia Sofia, Piraeus, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/461-2457
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

Longtime residents and frequent visitors rejoice in this precious vestige of the good old days, a family-run taverna that is probably as good a bargain now as it was 70 years ago, when it operated as a grocery store during the day and a diner at night. The decor is minimal; in warm weather the operation moves to the upper terrace. Come here ravenously hungry with friends, so you can do justice to the set menu of 16 dishes (EUR16.17 per person), brought in a steady stream to your table. Zesty shrimp saganaki and fried monkfish or red mullet are two standouts, as is the dessert called diples (a deep-fried pastry served with walnuts and honey syrup). No credit cards. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Vlassis
Paster 8 , Mavili Sq., Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/646-3060
EUR16 to EUR29
Athens
Greek

Relying on traditional recipes from Thrace, Roumeli, Thessaly, and the islands, the cooks here whip up Greek home cooking in generous portions. The best way to sample as much as possible is to order several appetizers for a meal (there are more than 20, all reasonably priced). Essentials include the peppery cheese dip called tirokafteri, lahanodolmades (cabbage rolls), pastitsio (baked minced meat and pasta with tiny bits of lamb liver), and the octopus stifado (stew), which is tender and sweet with lots of onions. Also good are the kebabs, seftalies (a tasty mix of lamb liver bits and onions wrapped in suet), oven-baked lamb, and katsiki ladorigani (goat with oil and oregano). Fresh fish is also available and sensibly priced. For dessert, order the halva, a semolina pudding, or the huge slice of delicious galaktobouriko (custard in phyllo). Reservations essential. No credit cards. Closed Aug.-mid-Sept. No Sun. dinner.

White Elephant
Andromeda Athens hotel, Timoleondos Vassou 22, Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/643-7302 through 01/643-7304
EUR29 to EUR47
Athens
Pan-Asian

Except for the leopard-print chairs, there's nothing exotic about the discreet decor at this restaurant, but it serves the best Pan-Asian cuisine in the city, mostly Polynesian with some continental Asian dishes. This is the one place to embrace that old standby, spring rolls, because here they are perfectly crunchy and perfumed with five spices; the more adventurous might try Thai ribs or delectable quail salad. Appealing entrées include the marinated salmon framed by sautéed spinach and cream shot with ginger; crispy duck served with wafer-thin pancakes; and - the hands-down winner - juicy sweet-and-sour chicken with macadamia nuts and plum sauce. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Zeidoron
Taki 10, Ayion Anargiron, Psirri Sq., Athens, Greece
Phone: 01/321-5368
Under EUR16
Athens
Greek

This usually crowded Psirri hangout has decent mezedes, but the real draw is its strategic location, with metal tables lining the main pedestrian walkway, great for watching all the world go by or for enjoying the neighborhood's illuminated churches and alleys. Appetizers include hot feta sprinkled with red pepper, grilled green peppers stuffed with cheese, crisp meatballs, pork in mustard and wine, eggplant baked with tomato and pearl onions, and shrimp with ouzo. The wines are overpriced; opt for ouzo instead. No credit cards. Closed Aug.